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The VISES of Garage Journal

Razorhunter

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Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
I'm assuming you've posted the pics of your other non users somewhere in this 3000 page long thread? They sound very interesting!
 
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Shiftless

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Mar 9, 2014
Messages
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Location
East Bay SFO
TJ:
Looking good...as usual :beer:

Va:
Right. Start beating on an NOS 70 year old bullet vise. Somebody could also spend their 1964 and earlier US dimes, quarters, and halves for face value if they wanted to. I’m old enough to remember those coins in general circulation...I shoulda stashed them away. (doh)
 
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chrisnazzy

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Apr 20, 2013
Messages
1,671
Location
Arizona
Razorhunter - just after Christmas last year I picked up a Reed 406 in So. CA near where my family lives. The seller came off his asking price by $200 but it was still just a little more than I was looking to spend at the time so I offered it to GJ member and fellow contributer in this thread CrotalusAtrox. We worked out the details and I worked the deal, picked up for him and met him a week later up in Prescott, AZ.

He posted pics of the end result of his hard work on that vise only back in January but this thread moves so fast that is probably hundreds of pages back so I'll repost them for you here. He chose to completely strip it down with a wire wheel and then just coat in BLO. The vise was really in amazing condition and I have to agree with him that the BLO was the right choice for the big Reed double swiveler.

Now if you're dead set against BLO and are looking for a dark metal look KMScott showed us a Rock Island 544 awhile back that I think ended up going to another member down in Texas. On that vise Kevin used a product from Sculpt Nouveau. Here are a couple pics I saved of his fantastic work on that vise and the product he used.

And last here is my Rock Island 853 I finished in Rustoleum Metallic Flat Soft Iron and my Parker 433 1/2A I did in Rustoleum Gloss Sage Green.

Hope this gives you some ideas for yours. 0d47bc0c118d9f30af5c90a79b027548.jpgc46cb9ed5a8be1ad8928e563d947e972.jpga70ef3a2992d9a569b38d52b62ed9542.jpg722fde4b446f1b9bfe7b1c0ebbc0994c.jpgabe57befa30ca2e9be8913cc7ec40d2d.jpg115bd36fcccadec9693052f97d66fdfd.jpg

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Razorhunter

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Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
Chrisnazzy, you Sir, are the MAN. Thanks for taking the time to post this info. Definitely going to contact Sculpt Noveau.
 

CRSINMICH

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Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,409
Location
Southeastern Michigan
Dads Tools: I found this rear dynamic Scout some time ago at an estate sale. I wasn't looking for another light duty homeowner's vise so I only gave it a glance on the first day of the sale. It was still there when I returned on the second day (25% off day) so I looked it over a little more carefully.
 

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Razorhunter

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Apr 25, 2013
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393
To anyone who has used wax or sculpt noveau products of any kind:
Have you witnessed any of these type finishes that might possibly hide JB Weld repairs (used as a filler of course)?
I know this is likely a shot in the dark here, but hey you never know.
 

KMScott

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Feb 14, 2012
Messages
4,642
Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
To anyone who has used wax or sculpt noveau products of any kind:
Have you witnessed any of these type finishes that might possibly hide JB Weld repairs (used as a filler of course)?
I know this is likely a shot in the dark here, but hey you never know.

They have plenty of products, the oil metal I used would hide but not cover the filler you are using. I brazed a new foot in place on a base and the metal oil like BLO would mask but not hide the repair. Puddy like you are planning on using is hide well by paint. Watch Sculpt's videos on youtube and maybe they would have a product that might work. Wish you would post pictures of your damage maybe you could use a different filler then the body filler like the Asians use on there vises. I like TIG welding gouges with Eutectic 224U since it is closer to the cast color then Inconel, nickle and SS.

https://sculptnouveau.com/collections/sealers
 

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CRSINMICH

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"How the Reed Vise is Made"​
A 1919 article in American Machinist magazine. It has been posted here before but there seems to be continued interest in Reed vises so here it is again.
 

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Razorhunter

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Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
Thanks Kevin. I just have the basic casting flaws which I am filling, along with a couple/few deep gouges and grinder cut-off wheel marks to fill, some of which are fairly significant. I will post pics soon.
 

Razorhunter

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Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
Ok Kevin, here's a few pics of some of the grinder damage and also casting flaws on the big Reed 406R which I usually fill with JB weld, if the vise is getting painted. I was thinking of going unpainted this time however, as the vise just looks so good in raw steel. Paint is not totally off the table however.
I do not own a TIG machine at this time either. Really wish I did tho. Would really be nice if I had one of you vise enthusiast gurus nearby that I could pay to do some occasional TIG work for me, but unfortunately, I dont know anyone willing right now.
 

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drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Location
Pacific Northwest
RAZOR: i'm guessing welding might give the best results for repairing your flaws in your vises if you are not going to paint them. I've heard some of the guys use DEVCON instead of JB Weld cause it might be tougher, but those guys usually paint their vises so no clue on what it looks like with BLO on it or some of the other stuff you've been hearing about.

feel free to post up pics of your vises when you ask questions cause for one we all like (or maybe love) pictures of vises and you might also get better answers.

good luck
 

AngryBeaver

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Jul 12, 2017
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Location
Lake Milton Ohio
just clean that up with a flap wheel... no need to weld or fill that. JB won't handle any kind of shock loads either. unless this one is just going to sit on the shelf and never be used again
 

drivesitfar

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Razor: I agree with AB that shallow cuts or dents might not work well with fillers and some of us and the buying public like character flaws to show the vise has had some use.

thanks for the pictures and i must have been writing my post while you posted them.
 

eddieK

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Mar 2, 2017
Messages
695
Location
Nampa Idaho
Ok Kevin, here's a few pics of some of the grinder damage and also casting flaws on the big Reed 406R which I usually fill with JB weld, if the vise is getting painted. I was thinking of going unpainted this time however, as the vise just looks so good in raw steel. Paint is not totally off the table however.
I do not own a TIG machine at this time either. Really wish I did tho. Would really be nice if I had one of you vise enthusiast gurus nearby that I could pay to do some occasional TIG work for me, but unfortunately, I dont know anyone willing right now.

I use a table mounted belt sander to clean up the jaw ends...does a fabulous job.

The marks on the jaw near the teeth are not flaws to me... I BLO with those and the vise still looks great, plus most are in 80 - 100 yr range in age, I think of it as character...but that's just me. The flaw on the base looks to me like it happened at forging.

 
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Razorhunter

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Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
Yeah guys I was sitting in the shop thinking today that an unpainted vise actually looks pretty damn cool with character marks so its a done deal, I'm just forgetting about them completely and it feels great!
As for painted vises however, while they dont have to be perfect, I do feel most damage is best filled in or ground out, as theres just something about a freshly painted vise with too many battle scars everywhere that doesnt look right to me.
 

rusty65

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Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
2,279
Location
Pekin,IL
I certainly didn’t see this one selling for what it did $355. I was thinking $200 was going to be the high bid but well I was wrong. I can’t blame who won it because it looks pretty good kinda well worn but has a nice patina imo. Just adding a comparison of two of my little Prentiss jewelers to add some more content. I’m just basically showing two little differences the way the screw is retained and the swivel base plunger.
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MayerMR

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Feb 13, 2018
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Dallas, Texas
Well, I scored an extremely nice and lightly used (if any use) Wilton 835 bullet tonight. I didn't exactly steal it at $175, but it's not easy to find ones that are in this good of shape!

IMG_20180318_174228.jpg


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The base isn't even rusted!

IMG_20180318_194626.jpg


I can't tell the date code really, looks like 678 or 679 to me, but from what I can tell online, the shape, stampings, and even the model year had changed by then. Beats me...anyone have any thoughts?

IMG_20180318_194616.jpg
 
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bluebolt

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Dec 28, 2008
Messages
5,441
Location
Benton LA
Well, I scored an extremely nice and lightly used (if any use) Wilton 835 bullet tonight. I didn't exactly steal it at $175, but it's not easy to find ones that are in this good of shape!

IMG_20180318_174228.jpg


IMG_20180318_174237.jpg


The base isn't even rusted!

https://s6.postimg.org/yj5unmy35/IMG_20180318_194626.jpg

I can't tell the date code really, looks like 678 or 679 to me, but from what I can tell online, the shape, stampings, and even the model year had changed by then. Beats me...anyone have any thoughts?

IMG_20180318_194616.jpg

It might be 6-70, that would be about right for that vise.

Edit I just looked at my database and although I don't have many vises from around that time period it could be 1978 or 1979
 
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MayerMR

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Feb 13, 2018
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831
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Dallas, Texas
It might be 6-70, that would be about right for that vise.

Edit I just looked at my database and although I don't have many vises from around that time period it could be 1978 or 1979

Thanks bluebolt!

I was surprised to see that "6 7 X " stamping on it to be honest. Every other 835 vise I've seen seemed to be quite a bit earlier...with them going to the "9300" model number tagged on the right side under the static jaw...with the transition seeming to happen sometime before this vise was apparently made. Also, the later vises with from the '70s seemed to mostly have that larger block print "WILTON" on each side rather than the cast letters that this vise has. Maybe they found it sitting in a back room or something...it's a mystery!
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Location
Pacific Northwest
Mayer: nice find and I like those older bullets too and you did pretty well on the price cause they are not giving those things away anymore now that the schools quit selling them at auctions for I think $5 before I knew about them cause shop class is TOO DANGEROUS.

CRS: loving all articles and catalog pages you post and keep up the great work. :thumbup:
 

NJVice

Member
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Mar 12, 2018
Messages
11
I use a table mounted belt sander to clean up the jaw ends...does a fabulous job.

The marks on the jaw near the teeth are not flaws to me... I BLO with those and the vise still looks great, plus most are in 80 - 100 yr range in age, I think of it as character...but that's just me. The flaw on the base looks to me like it happened at forging.

Nj.vice What to you used to get it so clean. Did you spray a clear coat of something. To keep it from rust. I hear about , boiling some type of oil, i think mineral, i think. I have a nice rockisland i think it a 574 model
I would love to get looking like the one you have. PLEASE GET BACK.

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Bellaireroad

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Mar 22, 2013
Messages
636
Location
Fort Worth
"How the Reed Vise is Made"​
A 1919 article in American Machinist magazine. It has been posted here before but there seems to be continued interest in Reed vises so here it is again.



Thanks, I think that’s my vise in figure 5


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gman007

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May 17, 2017
Messages
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Location
West Michigan
5" Prentiss Vise with Heavy Duty Stand - $100​

In case some members form Chi area are interested, here is a CL listing for a Prentiss vise and a stand. While the dynamic jaw is shot and has a corner broken off, the stand looks nice (personally I would pay $100 just for the stand). I suppose the broken off piece of dynamic jaw can be filled with weld,machined, tapped and then fitted with new jaw inserts.

https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/tls/d/5-prentiss-vise-with-heavy/6531651337.html

PS
I am guessing it might be model 95 and if so the swivel base is obviously is missing
 

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bluebolt

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Benton LA
My vise buying dry spell ended after picking up this Athol 624 for $18 at an estate sale. Handle is a bit bent and jaws are not great but vise does not have any welds or other major damage. Heavy beast!
 

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chrisnazzy

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Arizona
My vise buying dry spell ended after picking up this Athol 624 for $18 at an estate sale. Handle is a bit bent and jaws are not great but vise does not have any welds or other major damage. Heavy beast!
I have an Athol 624N. You did well for $18. I gladly paid $75 for mine from the original owner.

On a side note it looks like someone drilled and tapped holes in the original cast in jaw faces because even these later Athol vises did not have replaceable jaws. From what I've seen the last version of the Athol vises before they transitioned to the L.S. Starrett variety had the swivel base with two square sides and the taper on the handle ends as both of ours do. I'm not quite sure what the "N" means because I've seen examples with both smooth and serrated jaws. Mine are smooth. Here are a couple pics.9b4ea83baea5fe304bd279c4fe19f2fd.jpg24c06ccdbbae86f74d299a0570db67dd.jpg41f462a19129d8a6daa90a1829cacc7d.jpg

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eddieK

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Nampa Idaho
Nj.vice What to you used to get it so clean. Did you spray a clear coat of something. To keep it from rust. I hear about , boiling some type of oil, i think mineral, i think. I have a nice rockisland i think it a 574 model
I would love to get looking like the one you have. PLEASE GET BACK.

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I use an 8" table grinder wire wheel mostly, but also use wire wheels on my cordless drill or air drill. The other wheel is buffing/polishing wheel I use to brighten parts

I tried something a bit different - It's painted. Rust oleum metallic Black Stainless Steel (314558)

I'm still struggling with this vise. When I found it the seller had been using it some 20 years (he got it from a friends dad), he had no idea that the swivel jaw swiveled.

It took a dip in the electrolysis tank (about 48 hrs) heat, lots of Kroil and heat to finally free it up.

The corrosion is so bad that the two rods that are supposed to glide within the base grooves do not glide, it is much better, but not quite right yet.

I take it apart every now and then between other projects and keep working those grooves attempting to get it right. It's been frustrating
 
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gman007

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May 17, 2017
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Location
West Michigan
With the pipe jaw capability that is not a P95, the 9x series doesn't have pipe jaws.

Good catch (I did not notice the pipe jaws)! The only one 5" Prentiss in the spread sheet with pipe jaws is model 182 1/2 which is also supposed to have a swivel base.
 

gman007

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Location
West Michigan
My vise buying dry spell ended after picking up this Athol 624 for $18 at an estate sale. Handle is a bit bent and jaws are not great but vise does not have any welds or other major damage. Heavy beast!

Blue Well your dry spell is over with a bang (may be in your case with a lightning bolt). Athol 624 for $18, what a great find!
 

NJVice

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
11
I use an 8" table grinder wire wheel mostly, but also use wire wheels on my cordless drill or air drill. The other wheel is buffing/polishing wheel I use to brighten parts

I tried something a bit different - It's painted. Rust oleum metallic Black Stainless Steel (314558)

I'm still struggling with this vise. When I found it the seller had been using it some 20 years (he got it from a friends dad), he had no idea that the swivel jaw swiveled.

It took a dip in the electrolysis tank (about 48 hrs) heat, lots of Kroil and heat to finally free it up.

The corrosion is so bad that the two rods that are supposed to glide within the base grooves do not glide, it is much better, but not quite right yet.

I take it apart every now and then between other projects and keep working those grooves attempting to get it right. It's been frustrating
Nj Vice. You put in a lot of work, BUT it shows. Good looking vice. @ Thanks FOR The info. I need all the help I can get. Ha.ha

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1foxracing

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May 14, 2014
Messages
1,086
Location
Tuscarawas Co, Ohio
Just a Columbian 504 I found locally and cleaned up. I know Columbians don't get a lot of love around here but they were made here in Ohio and that was why I wanted one. I'm no expert craftsman like many of you here and my goal was not to make a museum piece but a decent looking and working vise.
Some before shots.
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After
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Next I'm looking for a Western Tool or Simplex model to add to my Columbian.
 
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