Pole Barn Metal Roof Fasteners

[11555wally]

I have a pole barn that is about 45 years old with a metal roof and nails for fasteners. The rubber washers on the nails are starting to fall apart and I have some leaks that I attribute to the bad washers. I plan to remove all of the nails and replace them with screws with rubber or neoprene washers. The nails are on the ridges of the metal roof and when I pull them I will deform the ridge a little bit by forcing a catspaw under the nail. I'll put a piece of wood across the ridge to pry against to lessen the damage to the metal ridges. My question is do they make screws with larger washers that would better seal the metal where I may have bent it in during the nail removal? Thank you for any help.

 

[readhead]

In the trade they are called oops screws or I have heard several other names. It is a larger diameter screw to go in existing holes and still grip. The nails should not have been installed in the high ribs but you are stuck with them now. One option would be to pull the nails and fill the holes with screws and then put the correct screws in the lows where they should be.

 

[bmxdad]

They do make them special for sheet metal buildings. Color-coded and they have a rubber washer to seal, are self-drilling too.

 

[JamesW84]

I'd look at EPDM washers vs neoprene for roof. They have better UV resistance. I found that when researching for mine.

I haven't used any yet, but here is a link to some: http://www.bestmaterials.com/woodgrip-screws-538.html

How big of a hole are you trying to cover? If it's very big, I doubt a washer would do it. Aside from replacing the panel, I wonder if you could use a little square of ice and water shield over the hole then paint to match? Just spit balling.

 

[7635tools]

In the trade they are called oops screws or I have heard several other names. It is a larger diameter screw to go in existing holes and still grip. The nails should not have been installed in the high ribs but you are stuck with them now. One option would be to pull the nails and fill the holes with screws and then put the correct screws in the lows where they should be.

Why can’t the screws be installed in the high rib? When the rain is running off the roof, it’s runs in the low part. Wouldn’t it be better to keep the screw out of the water. I believe Menards recommends putting the screws on the high side for roofing panels.


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[Ehcrain]

Depends on if it is 5v or standing seam roofing if ive been taught correctly. I always put screws or nails on the top of 5v as that is the way I've been taught.

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[readhead]

Top of the rib doesn't leak is an old wives tale that has been around for years. Water will go through a hole anywhere. The biggest problem with putting the screws in the high rib is leverage. As the sheets expand and contract the screws in the rib move more and damage the sheet and loosen their grip in the wood. Every manufacturer that I know of specs that the screws be placed in the low part of the panel. You may see screws in some ribs but those are lap screws to secure the seams.
There is no top in 5V.

 

[11555wally]

The holes are only as big as the nail I pull out. I have some screws that seem to cover the hole but was worried about deforming the metal a little when I pull the nail out. Was hoping they make a larger rubber washer. Maybe I'll look for a larger screw which would come with a larger washer. Thanks for the help and ideas.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Take a block of wood like a 2x4 and cut out a groove that will fit over the ridge in the panel and give you a solid place from which to pry up the nails without deforming the steel. I believe Ideal roofing specifies that it be screwed in the ridges, not the flats. Fastenall is also a source for the screws.

 

[PugetDude]

Top of the rib doesn't leak is an old wives tale that has been around for years. Water will go through a hole anywhere. The biggest problem with putting the screws in thype high rib is leverage. As the sheets expand and contract the screws in the rib move more and damage the sheet and loosen their grip in the wood. Every manufacturer that I know of specs that the screws be placed in the low part of the panel. You may see screws in some ribs but those are lap screws to secure the seams.
There is no top in 5V.

The new screw technology uses a cup-type washer that compresses, contains, seals, and protects the sealing washer from UV rays. In order for it to work properly, it has to be tight. You can't get them tight enough (or get them to stay tight enough) if you install them through the peaks instead of the valleys. As readhead mentioned, thermal expansion and contraction will work them loose if the sealing surface is 1-1/4"-1-1/2" above the substrate-it creates a moment arm that works the screw loose over time.

Here is a link to #14 rescue screws, made just for your application.

https://www.fastenersplus.com/14-Woodbinder-Metal-Roofing-Screw-Pkg-250

Readhead, I've actually seen 5V nailed through the top of the ribs... and then later smashed almost flat trying to get them to seal. Probably had a hell of a time getting the nails punched through the panel in the first place.

 

[texas webb]

Caulk the holes in the rib with a good metal roof product,put screws in the flats.Done.

 

[Marctrees]

Just be aware there are at least two, but I think 3 different screws used on R panel.

And then also whether into wood or steel framing.

"Stitch" is one style, I think used panel to panel.

I would highly recommend to call Mueller.. speak to an old timer there.. and ask his suggestions.

Sounds like a few here know well also.

Marc

 

[PugetDude]

Caulk the holes in the rib with a good metal roof product; install stitch screws in the holes, then put new screws in the flats.Done.

Added a step...

 

[Lelandwelds]

Caulk the holes in the rib with a good metal roof product,put screws in the flats.Done.

You might try that roll mastic they used to furnish with a building kit. Glue some white rubber sheet over the caulk?? Mop hot tar?

Leaky roofs alway leak.

 

[PugetDude]

Just be aware there are at least two, but I think 3 different screws used on R panel.

And then also whether into wood or steel framing.

"Stitch" is one style, I think used panel to panel.

I would highly recommend to call Mueller.. speak to an old timer there.. and ask his suggestions.

Sounds like a few here know well also.

Marc

I've known some of the "old timers" at Mueller from before they worked at Mueller...

 

[readhead]

I've seen 5V nailed through the ribs also and wondered what they were thinking. The owner wanted to know if we could fix the leaks. I said "of course we can. After the new roof is installed you won't have any problems at all". He had a handyman "fix" it for a sale. New owner called a year later for a quote. I asked for the address and said I would call them back. Called them back an hour later with a quote. Long pause on the phone. I explained what happened with the previous owner. They were pissed at the seller and I got the job.

Andy

 

[rusty1]

...when nailing on metal roofs the nails go on the top of the rib, screws go along side the rib.....but you can do anything as you wish.....I'd lay a thin metal strap from one rib to another and pry your old nails out against that, shouldn't mess up the ribs much,..then install new nails (or screws) in same holes

 

[Marctrees]

Puget and others - I am having a wood frame pole building installed in a few months. 26 ga "Ag" panel w the smaller projecting rounded ribs.... of course w rubber washer screws, not nails.

Are the screws "out there" USA made, or do I have to be concerned with like chineez screws w like rubber washers that turn to pudding the first summer or something?

Do I want to Spec anything in particular?

Marc

 

[rburke65]

I Had a shop put up with metal siding and roof and all the screws are in the flat areas.

 

[Doozer75]

I have installed 5V metal roofing on my shop.
I used ring shank nails with the black rubber washers.
I nailed them through the V ribs.
Before I started the nail, I used a sharp ***** pinch to pre-poke
the hole for the nail in the V. Then the nail would not collapse
and flatten the V when penetrating the sheet. I did every single
nail hole this way, pre-poking the hole. I have had the roof on there
for 4 years and zero issues. It is all in the details.

--Doozer

 

[PWC Repair]

My whole building has metal attached with these
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...202-c-5718.htm?tid=2009808966838860819&ipos=4

No leaks yet!

 

[Radix2]

does someone know of a good slide-hammer based nail puller ?

then you wouldn't have to lever against your metal...?

 

[bmxdad]

My whole building has metal attached with these
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...202-c-5718.htm?tid=2009808966838860819&ipos=4

No leaks yet!

Yep ... that's the type they used on mine. I have an extra pound or two also. Very handy