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The VISES of Garage Journal

454ragtop

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I can get pics and dimensions of the lock bolt from my Reed 203 probably tomorrow. I seem to remember the base being just a rectangular wedge shape. I need one for my Columbian 4-1/2" swivel jaw, that one looks like a real nightmare to fab, with 2 sets of teeth, one each at the top of the inner ring and the outer ring.
 
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KMScott

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Dr. Scott, I think that one could be a candidate for hand filing a square headed bolt to the requisite tooth pattern/shape, given a couple of measurements and some patience.

Outlaw, what I have seen is that if you miss the tooth and angle location with the threaded stud in place and it is not centered in the Static hole location then you are clamping at a angle causing the stud to bend. The best scenario would be to fit a 1/2" thick steel plate then using the static as a guide to either use a transfer punch or drill the tap drill size for the stud. It would take a careful setup to do this but without a mill you could make one right this way.

I was helping Zoomie on a Simplex lock, he said can I send you the swivel base and you make a lock down for me, well when I got it I seen it was the cat paw style and it took me a 1/2 day just to come up with the geometry to fab his lock. I used a microscope in my mill and took points from my readout to create the tooth pattern. If you do not get the teeth at the right angle and pitch and get the inside radius and angle just right then you will wear out the teeth on the swivel base if rotating the vise often. But really how many times does someone rotate a swiveler.
 

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PeteA

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Sep 5, 2012
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Hi I'm looking for pair of 6'' t shaped vise jaws for a Reed 106R vise , I was wondering if anyone knows of a machine shop that makes custom parts or any source where I could possibly obtain them , I contacted Kevin Scott at www.benchvisejaws.com a few months ago but he doesn't make t style jaws at this time , any help would be appreciated. Thanks PeteA
 

va.grouseman

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Here are a few more pics of the three sizes of Smart's that I have all in one place for comparison.---I don't know how many sizes Mr. Smart made, so if there are others maybe someone can shine some light on that.
 

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Outlawmws

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I guess my Shade Tree Hack would be to get some clay or beeswax and pack it in to the teeth, then position the vise body and "pattern punch" that, and peel it out and use that as a model for what is needed.

Those teeth are all originally cast on the base end, and I'd guess either cast or forged on the bolt side. So tolerances can't be too big a concern? All in all its a wedge fit and the teeth are there to prevent slipping.

The key is to get the teeth reasonably close to a good engagement at the right angle, and the bolt so its pulling it into place reasonably straight.

Not saying I'd want to do any production runs this way, but for a one off...

Another approach is to make the teeth block as a block, and then drill and tap the hole for a stud, then either stake the stud in place, or tack weld it, and call it a day.
 

Outlawmws

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Hmmm, another thought: with a beeswax chunk you could also get molding clay around it, cure it, fire it, and "lose the wax" (Lost Wax) then pour brass/bronze into that clay mold, then drill/tap and stake as before.
 

KMScott

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Goes to show Outlaw, there is many ways to skin a cat. It really depends on what a person feels comfortable with. Bronze if thick enough would work fine. Locating the threaded stud is the trick. Using Silicon Bronze to weld the steel threaded stud in place would hold.
 

gtsgarage

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Oct 31, 2017
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California
Got my old vise back today. This vise came with a house I bought 10 years ago. When I sold the house last year I left the vise. I ran into the new owner and I mentioned I was looking for a vise. He said to come get my old vise he didn’t want it.

I thought it was US made but turns out it’s from Taiwan. Anyone know if it’s a decent vise? When do you think it was made?

It did the trick for me for 10 years and will certainly work now. Kind of nice to have it back.

IMG_1302.jpg

IMG_1301.jpg
 

akasrick

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south jersey
I guess my Shade Tree Hack would be to get some clay or beeswax and pack it in to the teeth, then position the vise body and "pattern punch" that, and peel it out and use that as a model for what is needed.

Those teeth are all originally cast on the base end, and I'd guess either cast or forged on the bolt side. So tolerances can't be too big a concern? All in all its a wedge fit and the teeth are there to prevent slipping.

That was my thoughts, my nut was broken for some reason besides over tightening. But finding something at hand to fit up into a cavity...
Had some Gardner Bender duct seal, it gave me an impression and came out of the base intact, filed, it swivels , happy camper me.

akasrick
 

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MayerMR

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That was my thoughts, my nut was broken for some reason besides over tightening. But finding something at hand to fit up into a cavity...
Had some Gardner Bender duct seal, it gave me an impression and came out of the base intact, filed, it swivels , happy camper me.

akasrick

Just so I understand; you used the duct seal to make a model and then filed a piece of steel to act as a replacement? The picture wasn't very good resolution.
 

Razorhunter

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I've considered using plaster of paris to make a casting mold, and then finding someone in a hobbyist casting group to pour them with bronze or something like that.
 

akasrick

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Just so I understand; you used the duct seal to make a model and then filed a piece of steel to act as a replacement? The picture wasn't very good resolution.

Yes
The maybe original nut was split almost in half, got the shape from there then filed the edges to fit the rounded teeth inside the base from the putty impression.

akasrick
 

454ragtop

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Here's the swivel lock bolt from a Reed 203. The swivel base has no teeth. just has a taper that the bolt base wedges into. Doesn't look too bad to fab, cut to shape, sand/grind to fit the internal taper, then drill and tap for a stud. HTH

Was just on Ebay, there is a 203 that had the top of the static jaw broken off and brazed/welded back on, for $170. :shocking:
 

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Razorhunter

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Had anyone here ever considered researching the setup and equiptment cost to cast your own small parts such as this? I'm talking about doing it the right way. I mean, guys smelt jewelry and gold all the time. Granted, were talking steel and iron here, but has anyone here ever looked into this?
 

Bunk

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Oct 25, 2008
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Alexandria, VA
Got my old vise back today... I thought it was US made but turns out it’s from Taiwan. Anyone know if it’s a decent vise?

gtsgarage - Until I found this place, The GJ, and then more recently got turned-on to American and British vises, my main bench vise was a 4" MIT brand imported Record-ish clone. I've had it for 23 years now. Never did stupid things with it, never thought it would replace an arbor press. Treat it with respect and it'll last you a long time.

Now that I have 3 real British vises, you can see it's shortcomings. But it still works fine and does the job.
 
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RubiconJK

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Found this little guy today at an estate sale. Marked "Special Machine and Engineering Detroit, Mich". Its about 4" long, 3" wide and 3" tall and operates really smoothly. Can anyone tell me anything about the company and vise? Thanks.
 

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Outlawmws

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Rube, is it aluminum? I was thinking steel, bur the way the base is...

I'd bet it once had rubber feet in those three holes...
 

RubiconJK

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Rube, is it aluminum? I was thinking steel, bur the way the base is...

I'd bet it once had rubber feet in those three holes...
Yes, pretty sure it is aluminum. Confirmed non-magnetic. And I bet you are right about the rubber feet.

Strange, don't remember ever seeing one, and a search using "engineering" in this thread didn't turn any up.
I did a couple other searches and nothing turned up for me either.
 

MayerMR

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Dallas, Texas
Finished a bit of a restore on this Mac Tools (I think Wilton-made) vise tonight. I received it as a gift from a good friend of mine; it was bought new when they had some motorcycle shops many decades ago. Once they were shutdown it obviously fell on hard times and spent many a season out in the weather.

She was stuck fast:
IMG_20180322_183405.jpg


In the diesel bucket she goes!
IMG_0669.jpg


A few weeks of soaking later and the main screw still just wouldn't budge. I removed the swivel base and and main screw lock washer that secure it to the dynamic jaw. After doing so I was able to get the main nut moving enough to give me enough room to cut the handle off and drive the completed seized main screw and nut out the back of the body of the vise.

After many hours of heating and beating with the main nut in a vise and a plumber's wrench on the main screw I was able to get it release the remainder of the main screw.

Main screw did not survive:
IMG_20180405_222437.jpg


All parts spent several days in Evaporust:
IMG_20180326_194943.jpg


The ram was very badly pitted with rust. I had to chisel away large amounts of scaled rust. It was pretty ugly and uneven, so I used some JB Weld to smooth out the surface:
IMG_20180326_210946.jpg


Post sanding:
IMG_20180327_220639.jpg


Some etching primer & some navy blue paint later:
IMG_20180330_165228.jpg


A bit-o-fine detailing:
IMG_20180401_124848.jpg

IMG_20180401_193708.jpg


new stainless 1/4-20 jaw screws, turned down on my belt sander after being chucked up in my drill - who needs a lathe? (ME!)

IMG_20180405_222504.jpg


And tonight my replacement main screw came in...ordered the part for a Wilton 655 - perfect replacement. Ole gal is back in action!
IMG_20180405_201034.jpg
 
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hemifalcon

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Union Grove, Wisconsin
Yes, pretty sure it is aluminum. Confirmed non-magnetic. And I bet you are right about the rubber feet.





I did a couple other searches and nothing turned up for me either.



Is it maybe missing the vacuum base like some similar size vises are equipped?

There’s more info than you think sometimes—remember in internet search engines to put specifically wanted search terms in between parentheses.. “special machine and engineering” Detroit

GOV’t cage code listing for The business showing address/contact info..

https://www.cagecode.info/04912


I did find another on Worthpoint..

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-mid-century-bullet-special-412054832

And another..

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-vise-machine-engineering-jewelers-watch


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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RubiconJK

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I thought about that, but no holes in the sides for an actuating lever to work the suction cup.

attachment.php

Is it maybe missing the vacuum base like some similar size vises are equipped?


And another..

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-vise-machine-engineering-jewelers-watch

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you. After looking at this particular link and then re-examining my vise I can confirm that the center hole is indeed threaded. So that explains how to fasten it to a surface.
 

RG Rude

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Feb 6, 2017
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Florida
Here's the swivel lock bolt from a Reed 203. The swivel base has no teeth. just has a taper that the bolt base wedges into. Doesn't look too bad to fab, cut to shape, sand/grind to fit the internal taper, then drill and tap for a stud. HTH

:

Thanks 454. I've worked back to back 14 hour shifts so I have not even taken the Reed 203 out of my trunk yet.
 

FMC1959

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Montreal, Canada / Upstate NY
When I check for ads for vises, there are plenty of Records vises, made in China vises, and Mastercraft (CDN Tire house brand) vises; vises made in USA are few and far between in my area.

I saw this Reed 2C, looked in good condition on the photo, went to see it and now a happy owner of a Reed 2C. The pipe jaws and the swivel base are in excellent shape.
 

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Gerard

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When I check for ads for vises, there are plenty of Records vises, made in China vises, and Mastercraft (CDN Tire house brand) vises; vises made in USA are few and far between in my area.

I saw this Reed 2C, looked in good condition on the photo, went to see it and now a happy owner of a Reed 2C. The pipe jaws and the swivel base are in excellent shape.

Very nice. I'd love to find a 2C or even a 1C. As amazing as the 3C and beastly 4C look, I feel like a 2C would probably be one of the best all-around general use vises a person could have.
 
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