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Starting Garage/Shop Planning

LifeLongWNYer

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Oct 23, 2013
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South of Rochester, NY
I started "thinking about" a garage/shop several years ago, back when I joined this to get ideas. I have picked up a lot, and now am getting serious. I am roughing out some plans in Sketch-Up, and already have a question.

In the shop, I plan to eventually install a lift, and work on my own vehicles. I do not expect to encounter anything larger than a 3/4 to 1 ton pickup. So, I am thinking of 9' wide by 8' high doors, and a floor to bottom of trusses height of 12'. I know that I will lose some height with light fixtures, etc. What are the thoughts on those dimensions?

For the record, this is my final space, when I leave here I will be looking at the roots of the grass, so I want to do this correctly, on the other hand, don't want to spend for something that I'll never use.



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dynahoe

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Oct 25, 2014
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londonderry nh
if the door is up it could interfere with a vehicle on the lift..depending on depth of bay and type of door...the door company could install the tracks to help avoid this
 
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LifeLongWNYer

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I am ( at this time ) planning for it to be 40' deep. I am shooting for that for 2 reasons. first, so if something is on the lift, I can still get another vehicle in between the lift and the door, if needed.

Secondly, this will be 40' deep by 32' wide. Immediately adjacent to it will be a 40' deep by 16' wide "bay" sized adequately to accept a RV. I don't have one, but am planning for parking for a standard "farm truck" and figure as long as I'm building, plan for the future. Again, I am just starting on this, the cost may force me into downsizing.



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sberry

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You don't want to downsize. 40 is too short end for end to start with, 44 minimum and 48 better. My bud had 30x40 and 30 was too narrow. With 2 cars the space along the wall was useless, no room for anything. 36 minimum, 40 better. Get sq ft first, then add features. Even a 10 ft door is narrow.
Save up a little more, the sq ft is cheaper up front and so much, permits etc are fixed. Another 5k on materials goes a long way.
 

James-W

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You don't want to downsize. 40 is too short end for end to start with, 44 minimum and 48 better. My bud had 30x40 and 30 was too narrow. With 2 cars the space along the wall was useless, no room for anything. 36 minimum, 40 better. Get sq ft first, then add features. Even a 10 ft door is narrow.
Save up a little more, the sq ft is cheaper up front and so much, permits etc are fixed. Another 5k on materials goes a long way.
I agree with you, but a lot of it has to do with the size of the property the opening poster has. For example, I live in town and the largest garage I could have is 24X36 and 18.5 feet high. If the opening poster lives out of town on several acres, then my comments are a non-issue. But if he lives somewhere that has restrictions, then it could very well be an issue.
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
I would consider 10' wide x 8' tall doors, if you ever pull in a trailer those are usually 8'6" wide (also a DRW truck is close in width) and so it can get a little dicey with a 9' door.

Seems like you'd be good with 12' tall ceilings. I would put a couple ceiling fans in, they will help summer or winter to keep it cool-er or to keep air stirred so the heat doesn't all collect up at the ceiling.
 

zmotorsports

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Oct 20, 2009
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Northern Utah
My last shop was 34'x34' with 14' tall ceilings. You won't get two vehicles end to end in 40', especially to be able to do anything. My shop is 50' deep and two full-size trucks are tight end to end but anything short of that is great with plenty of room to work around.

As for width, my last shop was 34' wide and by the time you get tools and equipment around the perimeter walls it was not wide enough to work on two vehicles side by side without some form of interference.

For ceilings I would go with a 14' eve height to allow full rise on a two-post lift. With 12' it will work but you will be somewhat limited to using the full height on most two-post lifts. In my last shop I had 14' ceilings and they were perfect for a two post lift. In my new shop I went with 16' ceilings because I wanted one full bay for our coach and anticipated it to be able to hold a 45' Prevost bus someday.

As for garage doors, I don't think you will be at all happy with 9' wide by 8' tall doors. That is quite narrow to drive a full-size truck through with the mirrors out, even more if you drive a Dodge.:lol: Those of you who see all the Dodge trucks with the dumbo ears out will get that joke. I would highly recommend 12' wide by 10' tall doors minimum.

Again, just recommendation but if you are building your last shop, don't end up with regrets afterwards.

Good luck with the build.
 

Oldbear

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Aug 31, 2011
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Linden, Alberta, Canada
I went with 12 ft walls and cathedral ceiling to get a centre height of 14.5ft. Our building code only allows 12ft walls before you need an engineer, and the extra 2ft of block and concrete would have been more than the extra expense of the scissor trusses - plus the shop would have been taller than the house - and that would have made mama-bear unhappy.
 
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Partsguy57

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12 foot wide by 10 foot high door as previously stated.
Nobody in their right mind puts an 8 foot door in!
Times two.... 8 foot high is plain stupid.. At least 10-wide, 12 is ideal for a minimum lift if this is a,"working" shop...

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Rod N

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Jul 21, 2011
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Keswick, Ontario
A 12 ft' ceiling will not be enough for a lift. Mine was listed as 12' and it was actually 12'4".
Now you need a couple of inches to stand it up. I'd go 12' 6".
Mine was fine because I had to cut into the rafters anyway.
Is there anything else we can help with spending your money?
 
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LifeLongWNYer

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Oct 23, 2013
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South of Rochester, NY
There are lots of good thoughts here. Let me elaborate a little more on my design, and why it is, what it is. In the interest of brevity, I didn't tell all in my first post, and I should have. First, real estate is not a problem, the lot is small, ( 3 ac ) but should be fine for what I want to do. In essence, I am building a 16'x40' building and a 32'x40' building, with one of the 40' sides of each being a common wall.

The first proposed structure will be a 16' wide ( north & south ends ) by 40' deep ( west & east sides ) pole barn. ( 14' high door ) My objective is to store an antique fire truck in there, and it will be plenty large enough for that, but I am ( hoping to ) size it so that a RV or motor home would fit, hopefully to make things so that the next owner doesn't say "as long as he built it this big, why didn't he make it large enough for a RV?" This will be vehicle storage only, and at the onset, it will have a crushed stone floor, concrete here is a long time away.

Next to this, and abutting it, will be a 32' wide by 40' deep. The west 40' side of this is a common side with the east 40' of the previous structure. ( No wall here, but a row of posts. ) I am planning for three "bays" in this section. The section adjacent to the 16'x40' building will be for storage of vehicles, I am planning for a full size pickup and a Jeep, in here. The next section, or the "middle bay" of the 32'x40' building will be a working space, eventually with a lift. These two section are where I was shooting for the 9'w x 8'h doors. Again, I am envisioning nothing larger than pickups. The last section of this building will be workshop, no overhead doors, but an island workbench, and shelves or cabinets on the perimeter. If I remove something from a vehicle ( parked in the center bay ) I will bring it here to work on it.

I am planning to have attic trusses in the 32x40 section, giving me a 32' long space for storage of "stuff" to keep it out of the ground floor. Storage for summer stuff in the winter, and winter stuff in the summer. I want the trusses designed so I can use a chain fall to lift things, say a mower deck, or up to 500', on to the bench.

I do have a ( very ) rough drawing, done in SketchUp, which I can attach, with some help. When I first joined here, I was able to attach photo's, etc., but where ever I was placing them no longer works, and I've not figured out how to do it now. ( I am an novice to intermediately skilled computer guy, but moving down range, as technology advances faster than I am. )

I am trying for a structure which is 40' x 48' overall but doesn't look like someone plopped a big rectangular warehouse on the property, so the roof ridge of the 40x16 section will run the long way, while the ridge of the 40x32 section will be perpendicular to the first part. The ridges will form a "T". I am aware of the problem of having a roof slope so the drip edge is on the same wall as the overhead doors, but hope to minimize this by offsetting the ridge toward the side with the doors, making it shorter, but steeper. Less snow, but with a steep pitch, to will slide off quickly. The long, and more gradual slope, to the back, will dump most of the snow where it will be of no concern.

I think I'll quit now, before I bore you all into giving up on me! For those of you who stuck with me on this, I really thank you, and appreciate your time!


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matt_i

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I am trying for a structure which is 40' x 48' overall but doesn't look like someone plopped a big rectangular warehouse on the property, so the roof ridge of the 40x16 section will run the long way, while the ridge of the 40x32 section will be perpendicular to the first part. The ridges will form a "T". I am aware of the problem of having a roof slope so the drip edge is on the same wall as the overhead doors, but hope to minimize this by offsetting the ridge toward the side with the doors, making it shorter, but steeper. Less snow, but with a steep pitch, to will slide off quickly. The long, and more gradual slope, to the back, will dump most of the snow where it will be of no concern.

The roof system you describe sounds pretty complex. Having framed and roofed a much smaller intersection with unequal pitches, anything is possible with rafters, but it doesn't frame or sheath very fast unless you are willing to go very rough in the construction. There are truss packages which will frame the intersection but it sounds complex with a lot of engineering and responsibility on a truss manufacturer's part. Personally I would stick with the single pitch gable but try to add character (lose warehouse) with higher roof pitch, larger overhangs, adding a "prow" to the roof or even "eyebrow" returns at the corners. The problem you describe is age-old and if you start looking at images it seems to revolve around trim and details. Just my opinion :) I don't know if you are going to DIY the build or just write checks but I think on either pathway simplicity would be easier.
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
FYI, I have 9x8 doors on the house garage and also on my garage. The mirrors were close with my '07 F150 and with the '15 F250, I have to fold the mirrors to pull in. Thankfully, I have power folding mirrors.
 

mobetta

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370
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twin cities, mn
I had 9x8s on the last garage.
My E350 one ton rubbed both mirrors and the roof rack on the weatherstripping all the way around.
 

JamesW84

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Jul 13, 2015
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Springfield, MO
I've researched a lot and a 16 ft wide bay for one car/pickup seems large enough if you don't want much storage on the sides, but I wouldn't want much smaller if you plan to work on a truck. You'd probably want at least 26-28 for length though to have room to put your toolbox, engine hoist, etc

You could put shelves above head level to allow more floor clearance and maximize storage on the walls. With the doors closed, my 2011 super duty is 80" wide (110" with the mirrors opened, but that shouldn't matter for working on it. It's a crew cab short bed and is right around 21' long. Your storage bay could be maybe 8' if you got real close on the passenger side.

Then, if you figured 16 wide for the work-bay, you'd have 8x40 left for a workshop (if you have a full 32' footprint. Likely, you'd have less than that when accounting for the wall thickness. 40' long wouldn't fit 2 full size trucks, but most people won't have two full size trucks end to end. That being said, it probably won't fit many RV's either, so probably go 48' length.

Also, as mentioned, I'd do a 12 wide by 10 high door.

This is mostly theoretical from my perspective as I've been planning for 3 years, but haven't actually built yet.
 
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LifeLongWNYer

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Okay on the "T" shaped roof ridges; One potential builder echoed the "pain in the ear" to build comment, he suggested all ridges running the same way, but at different heights. The other builder said "no big deal".

10-4 on the door size, I will upsize.

I am now thinking about the overall size. I understand the comments about my 40' depth, and am tossing around adding 8' BUT, i am also thinking about my width, especially the workshop section. So my question now is "which is more valuable, width, or depth?"

I think I'll crank SketchUp back up and try to place some "to scale" vehicles in the drawing. I tried that before but couldn't get them to the same scale as my building. I used to be fairly good at AutoCAD, but Shetchup is a different animal.

Understood, JamesW84, I've been planning about that long too!


Thanks to all,



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