Help on building a 15'x28' garage/shop

[Hallucar]

Found myself lurking this site as I'm about to build my lifelong dream (just like many) of finally owning a shop/garage. The deal with the wife is that half of the detached garage will be used as living space for the kids. So even though the building is gonna be 30' wide x 28' deep x 12' ceiling, I will only get 15 wide by 28 deep for my shop. I know, I know, it's a bit of an oddball dimension. It will be kindof narrow and yet fairly deep. Anyways, just looking for feedback from the wealth of experience on this site. Some things I need to consider are:

- Vehicle garage door size? What width would you go with considering the shop will only be 15' wide?

- Windows? Are windows necessary in a shop? I know there's nothing like natural light, but don't windows limit what you can store on the walls, build shelves, hand stuff, etc...

- Sloped floor? Would really like to know what people's thoughts are on putting a drain in the middle or sloping the floor slightly to hose out the garage from time to time. Is this necessary? Do you guys even hose out your garage/shop very often or is sweeping really all a guy needs to do?

- Considering the ceiling height is gonna be 12 feet, is there any good advice on how to best use that upper space for storage?

Thanks in advance for your input...This is a great site!

 

[matt_i]

So here's just an idea which may or may not fit...kids can eventually grow up and move out...maybe a good idea to "future-plan" for the full space being a garage (?) In essence you could frame the opening/header for another garage door and then just fill it with studs, make the partition wall easily removable, etc.

My personal opinion on the sloped floor which I inherited is that I very much dislike it. I never allow running water in the shop because it would be a huge rust hazard for a large investment of other stuff that can't handle the increase in humidity. There can be local code issues of how to handle the runoff/runout. In my case its just a dry-well with no exit.

I put windows in my shop as to not make it look so much like a factory and more like a complimentary part of the house. That worked out well and I do enjoy the light inside. There are some tradeoffs for insulation and security but my choice has been made.

As far as upper wall space, I plan to design shelves all around the perimeter of the shop, possibly two levels in some spaces, the minute the drywall is finished. They go over the windows. I went as far as to place outlets up at that level in case i put things that need electricity up there, so I don't have to run extension cords up or down. One example is I want to bring my tractor and boat batteries inside for the winter, those will ahve a space for battery minders until the next spring.

 

[astroracer]

And remember, you are talking a 28' x 30'. Those dimension's are to the "outside" of the building. Depending on your finished wall thickness you will lose anywhere from 12" to 14" of interior space. That makes the usable area about 27' x 29'. Throw in the dividing wall and you lose another 6 to 8 inches of usable space. That will make your room sizes about 14' x 27'. Just so you know.
Makr

 

[Handyfarmer]

I would consider cutting the kids space down a few feet, and adding it to the shop side, a 15 foot wide room will not leave much space to work on a car or truck and no room to put things on much of that wall, like work bench or shelves, (shelves are 12 inches deep), that would be 24 inches or two feet off of the 15 foot, or your down to 12 foot, and doors open on a car one will have little space to walk around it,

I have two sheds on my barn 15 foot wide, and I would think it would be a frustration to work on cars in those sheds, for storage not a problem but for a shop I think you would find it a disappointment,

and just use a flat floor, or if your going to slope it slope it all towards the door, keep the floor flat even if it is not level, but I would pour it flat and level,

 

[Lelandwelds]

Rough out openings for overhead doors in the apartment and put in rough electrical for a full shop. Make certain partition wall isn't load bearing. Ditch the drains. Insist on a perfectly level floor and pockets for door entries. I think an epoxy floor would be very practical.

My kids have moved out and returned several times. Aim for flexible space that isn't too comfortable.

 

[66Caprice]

Have you thought about using attic trusses and putting the kids upstairs?
Then you would have a normal garage and a comfortable living
space upstairs. Put an enclosed staircase outside of the building too.

 

[astroracer]

Have you thought about using attic trusses and putting the kids upstairs?
Then you would have a normal garage and a comfortable living
space upstairs. Put an enclosed staircase outside of the building too.

^^^ THIS^^^
Loft trusses on your 28' x 30' would get you 15 or 16' x 29' feet of living space above your FULL shop...
I used loft trusses on my 26' x 28' attached garage and have 14' x 27' of usable space upstairs. With a 6/12 pitch there is plenty of headroom and I am 6' 2"

Mark

 

[Fixed]

^^^ THIS^^^
Loft trusses on your 28' x 30' would get you 15 or 16' x 29' feet of living space above your FULL shop...
I used loft trusses on my 26' x 28' attached garage and have 14' x 27' of usable space upstairs. With a 6/12 pitch there is plenty of headroom and I am 6' 2"

Mark

If you don't mind me asking, did this add a lot of cost to your build?

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[NUTTSGT]

I was going to mention a second story also.


OP, do you have a budget ? I'd also recommend putting a general location in your profile. It'll help your fellow members give the best advice for the region you live in.

 

[Ret Nailbender]

Don't know where you are located, but most states require 5/8" fire rated drywall between garage and living area, floor to roof. Even if you are not required, you should for the safety of your children.

 

[RWorth]

Put a 12 pitch on the roof and a dormer, and put the kids over the 28x30 garage. Worked for The Fonze.

 

[kbs2244]

If you put in any living space you are not building a garage.
You are building a "residence" and all the code requirements that go with it.

 

[astroracer]

If you don't mind me asking, did this add a lot of cost to your build?

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It wasn't that much, maybe 50 bucks per truss. This was back in '96 and it was well worth the extra money.
Talk to your builder and see which would be better. Loft (attic) trusses or a 12/12 pitch.
Mark

 

[Hallucar]

Thank you everyone for you feedback - some very good points for me to consider. I should have mentioned that we originally considered the kids room above the garage, however for reasons that I won't go into here, it just isn't a possibility anymore. That is why I have to make this work with the kids' room beside the shop. I should have mentioned too that the shop will never be used to park a vehicle in. That's why I have a tough time calling it a garage, it's more like a shop where I will be able to work on garden equipment, quads, kids dirtbikes, etc...

I also updated my Location - I live in B.C. Canada! Your neighbour to the north...Ha ha

 

[PurpleZj]

My shop is 11’5”x24’ interior dimensions. While it is snug i have had worse so it feels decent. Being on the long side of a typical one car garage I’m able to have my work space at the end with a 9’x30” workbench and still have enough room to realistically work on my foxbody. I will say it forces you to be creative, and if you have a long term car project I’d highly recommend getting wheel dollies from harbor freight. They have made a night and day difference in maneuverability in my shop and I keep it hugging one wall and as close to the garage door as possible. I have two windows which don’t seem to bother me too much wall space wise. It is nice having the natural light


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[cidermill]

This sound so familiar! My deal with the wife was 15x24 was for her car & 15x30 was for me. Windows: Awning type up high on wall where they don't interfear with usable wallspace. Also transome windows above doors. Radiant heat in floor pitched floor. Min. 8x8 overhead door. I put up a timber frame insulated in inside &seps panels on roof. Use temporary wall or curtains to divide space for dust. Remeber it will all by yours someday! Good luck

 

[Falcon67]

9' wide door - 8' will work but it's a little tight.

Yes windows

Flat floor, especially since half is living space. You'll need to take extra care to seal the wall between the two and vent the attic space well if you plan to do vehicle work on the shop side. Fume penetrate, especially if you tinker with an older car running modern **** pump fuel without a vapor recovery system.

 

[TractorJeff]

10 by 10 insulated door!
You'll thank me later.