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'78 F350 Dually Project

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RivennHewn

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Waiting for parts to show up, or the weather to cooperate is leaving me with some time to kill.

Thought I'd jump down the rabbit hole.
9Kql


It's kinda ugly down there.
YL3M


Gives me a chance to install some LED bulbs in my instrument cluster.
Ny4Y


And clean 40+ years of allergenic material from my air ducts.
1cYg
 
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RivennHewn

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Question for the gas gauge gurus.

See pic

6dMr


The previous owner spliced in wiring from the tank to the connector behind the gauge cluster.

He had both wires (red and black) from the tank going to the light blue and green wires, both of which go into the black rubber thingy-ma-bob, and then the orange wire goes into the connector to the flexible circuit board behind the gauge cluster.

As is, the gas gauge pegs to past full when the key is on. Empty when the key is off.

Is this correct?

Where is the ground? What is the black thingy-ma-bob?

Sending unit is new, from back when I replaced the tank.

What am I missing?

Why does the wiring diagram only show the orange wire, and not the green and blue?
lGeN
 
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RivennHewn

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So, sitting on the computer surfing GJ, a thought came to me.

The black thingy-ma-bob is just a splitter. The instrument cluster isn't original to the truck. It's a '79 unit in a '77 truck.

I'm thinking the donor truck was a dual tank truck, that needed two sources for the gauge.

The PO (or POS) wired the ground wire to the 2nd feed. This grounded out the gauge, causing it to read full all the time.

I cut the splitter out, wired the gauge wire to the stud on the sending unit.
The tab on the sender mounting flange got wired to a good ground.

Now it reads Empty.

I believe the instrument cluster voltage regulator is good, because the temp gauge works. When I put a tester on the orange gauge wire, the tester light pulses.

Not sure now if it's the actual gauge, or the sending unit (new) thats bad. :dunno:

G0Cs
 

racer-john

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Sorry to hijack your thread,mate, but maybe the solution to your problem is the same for me. :lol_hitti
I have a '89 Chev PU where the gas gauge shows full when key is on. When driving the gauge bounces back and forth violenltly. I traced he ground and rep laced it, but no change.
 
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RivennHewn

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Sorry to hijack your thread,mate, but maybe the solution to your problem is the same for me. :lol_hitti
I have a '89 Chev PU where the gas gauge shows full when key is on. When driving the gauge bounces back and forth violenltly. I traced he ground and rep laced it, but no change.

Just like any other problem, you figure out what’s good and eliminate potential problems off the list.

Next is an ohm meter on the sender, Then test the gauge.

I just filled the tank, so I know it’s full.
 

WoodsTruck

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On my dad's '73, the dual tank gauge sender went through the tank selector switch so only one "feed" went to the gauge depending on which tank was selected. I believe it was a DPDT toggle on the dash and the other pole fed power to the fuel selector valve under the cab.

That is also how the dual tanks on my Bronco work.
 
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RivennHewn

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On my dad's '73, the dual tank gauge sender went through the tank selector switch so only one "feed" went to the gauge depending on which tank was selected. I believe it was a DPDT toggle on the dash and the other pole fed power to the fuel selector valve under the cab.

That is also how the dual tanks on my Bronco work.

There is a switch on the truck, with the heat/ac controls. I'm thinking that's a transplant to, as it has no wires going to the back of the switch. It's a better explanation of why there is a splinter on gauge wire though.

Or, it was a 2 tank truck and one was removed when they put the dump bed on it.

Racer-john,

It's a 19 gallon tank behind the seat. I just installed a new one a while back.
 
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RivennHewn

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Spent a nice afternoon up at my parents house today.

Got a chance to take a few pics of my Grandpa's '52 3100.

The garage is way too full of **** to get any full pics, so I went for some moody black and white pics.

w9-G


vUbW


KcZB


a_4j


Rust, dust and cobwebs.............
 
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RivennHewn

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So much winning today.


I replaced the door switches.
jRXE


And this happens now when you open the doors.
shH1


Then I figured out why my glove box light wasn't working.
lP88


Talk about engineering a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Maybe it was an intern they just wanted to keep busy so he wouldn't be in the way.
 
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RivennHewn

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Today marks a major shift in the overall goal of keeping this truck 'Period Correct'

Seems I took a huge step in bringing things up to date with some current technology.

Oh well, at least now I can keep my phone charged:eyecrazy:

KBMS


And, I can monitor my batteries too!
CbJy


Ain't technology wonderful?
Ain't life grand?
 

danski0224

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The black thingy-ma-bob is just a splitter. The instrument cluster isn't original to the truck. It's a '79 unit in a '77 truck.

I'd be willing to bet that there is a difference in the resistance values (or, whatever makes it work) of the sending units between a 77 and 79 Ford truck.

I faintly recall reading about an EFI swap in a Ford truck, and there is apparently something odd about the 79 gauge cluster compared to almost anything else.

I'd try to find the specs on the respective sending units and gauges.

Your parts are apparently reading out, but something is being lost in translation.
 
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RivennHewn

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danski,

Thanks for your response.

I did a little research tonight.

Seems the voltage regulator is the same for '73 to '79.

The flexible circuit board is different, but has to do with warning lights. Some have them, some don't.

haven't found much on the sending units yet.
I do know the '77 has an in cab tank, and the '79 has the tank between the frame. They take different style senders/floats set ups.
 
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RivennHewn

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While messing around trying to clean up my wiring rat's nest under the dash, I realized the PO had bunged up the power feed from the ignition to the fuse block by stripping out the main lug/stud. All the connections were loose.

Not only were the threads stripped, but the stud was spinning.
bq5t


I labeled all the wires, and removed the fuse block. I had to remove the plastic to get the stud out.
YBG7


Then I ran a die on the stud
l99m


Then I re-secured the stud and covered the back with epoxy.
CMDz


Only took me about 20 minute to get it all back together. Sure beat trying to find a replacement on a Sunday afternoon.
 

lightn95

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Today marks a major shift in the overall goal of keeping this truck 'Period Correct'

Seems I took a huge step in bringing things up to date with some current technology.

Oh well, at least now I can keep my phone charged:eyecrazy:


KBMS


And, I can monitor my batteries too!
CbJy


Ain't technology wonderful?
Ain't life grand?


Where did you find this plug? I've been looking for on to set up for my phone charger also.
 
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RivennHewn

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"Old trucks, beer, and power tools..........."

Or,

"Look, squirrel!"

Either way, it's down another rabbit hole for me.

The old door I picked up a while back has some things that need to be addressed.

The mirror must have gotten tweaked, as it tweaked the sheet metal where the mounting inserts are.

I drilled out the inserts, and re-rounded the holes. Now I need to make some 20 gauge disk to weld back in. My new mirrors won't use the same mounting holes/locations. I'm going to attempt to reshape the metal back to where it's supposed to be prior to welding in the plugs.

**Disclaimer** I have no prior experience. I do not know what I'm doing.
The closest I've been to a body shop is the customer side of the counter.

But, I'm going to spend the evening at MP&C school of advanced technology.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182565&highlight=body+work

Wish me luck!

cu4d


D7yE


3uO6
 
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RivennHewn

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A couple of Beers can always help also!
"Take the edge off":lol:

I don't know if it helps, but it sure doesn't hurt :beer:

The mailman brought me another Ebay item. I have always loved the old Ford trucks with the fresh air intake down by the parking brake. Mine had a factory block off plate there. Finally found a nice one, and got it installed today.
MSpx


6rRS


Now I can get my fresh air without messing up little momma's hair :willy_nil
 
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RivennHewn

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Back to it on the door.

After I drilled out the mirror anchors, I removed the center bit from a hole saw and cut out some little nickels from some scrap from my old Heil oil burner furnace.

bGiq


A little bit of fiddl'n around got them to sit nice and flush.

JHB8


Then, came the welding. :(:(:(

I'm not a body guy, I'm not a welder. And it shows.

Much respect to all of those GJ members who make this **** look easy.

It ain't.
yZno


At least, not with my Craftsman flux core wire feed welder.
 
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RivennHewn

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Nice plug cutter, good job fixing the holes!

Thank you for that.

There is a reason I started this on a $10 door.

I blew thru a couple times, got a lot more splatter than necessary, and did more grinding than welding. They seem secure, and with a little more "practice" I'm thinking they'll get better. Maybe even to the point of acceptable for my old truck.

I've been enjoying going thru your thread, and it's been a great resource. Both for technique, and inspiration.

Thanks again,
 

Pointbock

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I don't know if it helps, but it sure doesn't hurt :beer:

The mailman brought me another Ebay item. I have always loved the old Ford trucks with the fresh air intake down by the parking brake. Mine had a factory block off plate there. Finally found a nice one, and got it installed today.
MSpx


6rRS


Now I can get my fresh air without messing up little momma's hair :willy_nil

I always hated when a buddy from town would say "What's that?" and then open the floor vents in the old farm truck. Instant dust storm/mini-tornado of hay chaff.

But it looks good on you, though!
 
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RivennHewn

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Thanks,
Now that I’ve cleaned it all up, I should figure out a way to filter the incoming air.

With no working AC, it’ll be nice to have that air moving in the cab.
 
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RivennHewn

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Nice truck and some good reading! Here's my 76 I just picked up.

Nice!

Looks just like the one I drove in high school, only mine was stock height and stock white wheels. Also, the only one I've had that was an automatic.

Wish I hadn't remodeled the front end in a snow bank.
 
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RivennHewn

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On dolly, off dolly, first in last out..........

Learning some new lingo :pimpflash and acting like I know what I'm doing!
I3cK


Having left the door outside for a few days, I have the same problem as every other car in Seattle - Pollen.

So I started wet sanding and cleaning it up. Lots of swirl marks left over from the random orbit I used to get rid of all the spray paint, moss, algae and crud that was on it when i bought it.
RYSo


It doesn't look nice, but it's really clean now. Inside and out. :rocker:
 
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drivesitfar

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Riv: for supposedly not knowing what you are doing i'm thinking you are doing a fine job on that door. funny how the door sort of looks like that bowl you made a couple months ago.

i know you like your truck with the dump, but i'd like to see you start restoring that truck you've got sitting in your Dad's garage if it's yours and you have time to.

keep up the great work and sorry I don't have a clue about your wiring, welding or body work you are doing, but I for one am enjoying watching and learning as you are.

might I suggest a little tastier beer with your body hammering and it might work better. say a Fremont IPA or Stella Artois?
 
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RivennHewn

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Thanks for checking in on my fun and games.
Figuring out new projects keeps the brain synapses firing, and your hands from being idle.

As far as the beer, I’m an equal opportunity consumer.
I’m kinda partial to anything Dechutes makes.

Also, Elliot Bay has a rotating cask beer I like. A lot less carbonation, so it takes some getting used to.
 
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