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gman007

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Joined
May 17, 2017
Messages
2,735
Location
West Michigan
Good buys outlaw and the vise came out awesome gman.

To my surprise it’s a Reed 404-1/2. Not a huge vise any swivel jaw for $50 is a deal in my book.
Bagged
Thank you for the compliment.

You did very well on the Reed, $50 for a 404-1/2 is a great deal all day long. I am sorry I can not help with the size of the pin but as for handle, even though it is pretty badly bent, you might still be able to straighten it using a hydraulic press.
 

454ragtop

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Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
5,011
Location
Carver, MA
Bought my first bench vise at a swap meet over the weekend ($25! :rocker:). Dunlap brand #5244 with 3.5" jaws. Dirty, but has a lot of potential:




I'm going to use the threads on here to clean it up and properly restore it. Anyone know where I can get some new jaws for this puppy?

Thanks!

Saw that one at Lake Compounce, already have 2 examples, so it was easy to talk myself out of buying it. Well made vises for what they are, see one I restored here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4532367&highlight=Dunlap#post4532367

Here's my vise take from the same swap meet, a Wilton combo wood, bench, pipe vise, a Fulton 2-3/4" jaw enclosed screw vise, a small hand vise, and the 3-1/2" Craftsman.
 

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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,259
Location
The Badlands
zbyler That will buff out!

Bagged nice score! Can't help you on the pin but I suspect they should; try this: swing the jaw out of the way ad see how the pin fits in just the lower end...

454: great scores!
 

Miller72

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Joined
Aug 19, 2017
Messages
115
Location
Connecticut. Home of Collins Axe and Charles Parke
I found this screw vise again in the basement. I can only assume it was my grandfathers(mom's dad), he passed away in the early 1990's at 93. No one clearly remembers him using this but my dad vaguely recollects him having it at his garage bench. Now I own and am raising my family here in there house, now ours.
I have my bench in the same half of the garage he once used as his shop as well :thumbup::thumbup:

Instead of moving it again and telling myself to go make use of it...I decided to actually go and make use of it this time...so I decided to break it down to make the vise a vise again :beer:

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Cut the single piece of probably near 70/80 year old oak to make two 12" jaws.

I need to replace the one rod, rusted, stripped and bent a bit.

It will sit here in it's on deck box awaiting parts, cleaning, lube and then mounting:thumbup:
PHP:
 

ALLFAST

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Feb 20, 2017
Messages
1,233
Location
Northern California
Bagged, the pin that holds the rear swivel jaw fast is called the taper pin. Each bore should have it's own specific angle to match the taper of the hole. I understand them to be expensive to have custom machined, but I could be mistaken. Yes, that's a good buy.
 

pelletman

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Joined
Apr 5, 2016
Messages
1,267
Location
Worcester, People's Republic of Massachusetts
Picked this up at a flea market over the weekend for 10 bucks. I tossed it in the molasses bath yesterday and I will check on it in a week
 

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BillyWhitehorse

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Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
3
So I got the Reed today. It has a very nice patina on it. I'm hesitant to restore it. I think I will keep it, get the schmoo off of it and use it as is. I'm think I'm going to replace the Colombian with the Reed and sell it. I really hate to sell the gray Prentiss but...I don't really have a need for it.

I like having a 3" vice for smaller stuff. What would y'all do? The 3 1/2" Prentiss is a bit too big to use. If I could find a 3" one, I'd like a matching set for the garage.

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Hi, some great restoration work there! I recently saved an old Colombian swivel vise from the scrap pile, but it needs work. A 203 1/2, I believe, pre-1973 from what I can find on it, I believe much older. I need a bench vise, but I’m not experienced with restoring them. One jaw is broken, and appears to be pressed/pinned in. Any tips on getting it out, or should I just cut it out, drill and tap for a new jaw? Thanks for any input.


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bagged89s10

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Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Bagged, the pin that holds the rear swivel jaw fast is called the taper pin. Each bore should have it's own specific angle to match the taper of the hole. I understand them to be expensive to have custom machined, but I could be mistaken. Yes, that's a good buy.


I will machine one to fit on my lathe once I figure out the correct taper. Someone suggested using something like silly putty to make a quick mold to reference.

Dr Scott has the pins. I'd bet he will know of the taper is different. Heck his site may list what they fit...


He doesn’t but he gave me insight on how to measure the taper. Attached is what Kevin shared on how to calculate it.
IMG_7823.JPG
 

gman007

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Joined
May 17, 2017
Messages
2,735
Location
West Michigan
I will machine one to fit on my lathe once I figure out the correct taper. Someone suggested using something like silly putty to make a quick mold to reference.




He doesn’t but he gave me insight on how to measure the taper. Attached is what Kevin shared on how to calculate it.
IMG_7823.JPG
Bagged
How about lubricating the hole (say with WD-40) and then pouring hot wax into the hole to make the mold. It might be a more precise mold.
 

MayerMR

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Joined
Feb 13, 2018
Messages
831
Location
Dallas, Texas
Bagged
How about lubricating the hole (say with WD-40) and then pouring hot wax into the hole to make the mold. It might be a more precise mold.

Something that I've found that is even easier and less messy than wax for mold making is the *exceedingly* cheap modeling clay that you can pick up at Michael's Crafts Stores, and I'm sure online. It's very easy to use, just mold it with your fingers or press into the desired shape, throw it in the oven for about 30 mins at something like 230* for a hardened model!
 

va.grouseman

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Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
4,965
Location
Southern-Central VA.
Billy, if the jaws are pinned in you can take the slide all the way out and knock the pins out from the bottom.---Sometimes they/the pins are hard to find because they are covered with gunk.---Just take a wire brush and give the bottom a good scrubbing and you will probably see them.
 

gman007

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Joined
May 17, 2017
Messages
2,735
Location
West Michigan
Something that I've found that is even easier and less messy than wax for mold making is the *exceedingly* cheap modeling clay that you can pick up at Michael's Crafts Stores, and I'm sure online. It's very easy to use, just mold it with your fingers or press into the desired shape, throw it in the oven for about 30 mins at something like 230* for a hardened model!

My point was that the liquid wax should fill up the hole completely as opposed to a soft solid such as silly putty or modeling clay that needs to be pressed into a the hole and which might or might not completely reflect the shape of the pin/hole.
 

va.grouseman

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Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
4,965
Location
Southern-Central VA.
Here's a few small anvil vises I've acquired.---The 2 conventionals I've shown before, but I found a clamp-on that kind of complements them.---None of them have a true makers mark.---The seller described the clamp-on as a Russian made vise but I got my doubts about that.
 

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zbyler

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Joined
Jun 3, 2014
Messages
129
Location
CT
Saw that one at Lake Compounce, already have 2 examples, so it was easy to talk myself out of buying it. Well made vises for what they are, see one I restored here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4532367&highlight=Dunlap#post4532367

Here's my vise take from the same swap meet, a Wilton combo wood, bench, pipe vise, a Fulton 2-3/4" jaw enclosed screw vise, a small hand vise, and the 3-1/2" Craftsman.

Funny that you knew exactly where it was from. First time at that swap meet, and my first vise. Thanks for leaving it for me!

Nice haul also.

I'll shoot you a PM with some questions on that Dunlap vise.
 
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va.grouseman

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Southern-Central VA.
Here's a few more.
 

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gman007

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May 17, 2017
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2,735
Location
West Michigan
Here's a few small anvil vises I've acquired.---The 2 conventionals I've shown before, but I found a clamp-on that kind of complements them.---None of them have a true makers mark.---The seller described the clamp-on as a Russian made vise but I got my doubts about that.

VA Man, you always find such neat vises. Very nice and impressive :thumbup:

Now, of course you are going to mount and use them, right? :evil::bounce:

And I am sorry but no you can not quote John 8:7, it was already quoted by someone else :D
 

va.grouseman

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Mar 26, 2011
Messages
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Location
Southern-Central VA.
No Gman, I've got a 16 lb. sledge I'm going to take to all three anvils to see if they can carry the weight.---And they better measure up or I scrap these 3 and get 3 more.:D



EDIT---I might actually use the clamp-on some.
 
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Razorhunter

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Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
No need at all to make a taper pin mold. Just neasure your minor dia (bottom) and major dia (top) and get tour length. You now have your taper in about 30 seconds.
 

bagged89s10

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Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Funny that you knew exactly where it was from. First time at that swap meet, and my first vise. Thanks for leaving it for me!



Nice haul also.



I'll shoot you a PM with some questions on that Dunlap vise.



Where in CT do you live?
 

davethorik

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Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
4,992
Location
Norka, Ohio
I've been on the hunt for one of these a while that wasn't stupid expensive and/or broken...Letgo for the win yet again!! Handle not even bent!!

Stanley Victor clamp on vise...I believe it is a no. 743, however can't read stamp until I clean it up a bit, all I can make out is STANLEY VICTOR. 2" jaws. Some original paint present, rust doesn't look too bad.

$5 :rocker::rocker::rocker:
 

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Evilunclegrimace

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Sep 24, 2015
Messages
868
Location
Erie Pa
I found this little vise while cleaning my dads work shop. It is a Brink & Cotton 149-8. It has a coat of red paint. Any ideas if this is a factory color and and ideas of a value on it.
It seems to be in good shape, the jaws are 1 5/8" wide and open about 2". The bench clamp will open to about 1 3/4". Thanks.


**** i can't get the picture to load.
 

davethorik

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Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
4,992
Location
Norka, Ohio
I found this little vise while cleaning my dads work shop. It is a Brink & Cotton 149-8. It has a coat of red paint. Any ideas if this is a factory color and and ideas of a value on it.
It seems to be in good shape, the jaws are 1 5/8" wide and open about 2". The bench clamp will open to about 1 3/4". Thanks.


**** i can't get the picture to load.

From what I can see googling, fire engine red looks like the correct color. Value? Probably $10 or less.
 

davethorik

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Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
4,992
Location
Norka, Ohio
I've been on the hunt for one of these a while that wasn't stupid expensive and/or broken...Letgo for the win yet again!! Handle not even bent!!

Stanley Victor clamp on vise...I believe it is a no. 743, however can't read stamp until I clean it up a bit, all I can make out is STANLEY VICTOR. 2" jaws. Some original paint present, rust doesn't look too bad.

$5 :rocker::rocker::rocker:

Did some cleaning with mix of hot water, Dawn dish soap and Simple Green. Stamp is now legible, it reads

STANLEY VICTOR
No. 743
STANLEY RULE & LEVEL CO.
NEW BRITAIN, CONN. U.S.A.
PAT'D JAN 28, 08

so does this mean the vise is pre-Sweetheart?

Patent appears to be 877,695 by Joseph G. Baker of Philadelphia; listed as uassigned:
http://www.datamp.org/patents/displayPatent.php?pn=877695&id=52290

https://patents.google.com/patent/US877695A/en
 

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mikeswrenches

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Apr 20, 2015
Messages
170
Dave,
"so does this mean the vise is pre-Sweetheart?".

Yes. The S. R. & L Co. merged with the Stanley Works sometime around 1919-1920. After that, until around 1935, tools were marked with one of the three Stanley Sweethart marks, depending on the year of manufacture.

Mike
 

scooternut

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Joined
Jul 31, 2013
Messages
684
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Thought i was heading out to buy a Reed 103, as i know them well, and found this Yost 103! Followed up a few days later by the Reed 104. Excellent tools, love my Reed vises.IMG_3802.JPG


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davethorik

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Sep 14, 2013
Messages
4,992
Location
Norka, Ohio
Dave,
"so does this mean the vise is pre-Sweetheart?".

Yes. The S. R. & L Co. merged with the Stanley Works sometime around 1919-1920. After that, until around 1935, tools were marked with one of the three Stanley Sweethart marks, depending on the year of manufacture.

Mike

Thanks Mike, cool to know this vise could be 100+ years old! And still in good shape!
 

FMC1959

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Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Messages
2,319
Location
Montreal, Canada / Upstate NY
Poking around the Internet, I actually found a pair of NOS Record 634 pipe jaws in the UK after looking on a rare occasion for a few years.
They just arrived today (someone in the Royal Mail was kind enough to have sent them Air instead of Surface :D).
B1CFFD12-22AC-4751-B2A0-840256EDEAFE.jpg
A quick scrub up to remove the packing grease and pop them in place.
E72BB63F-F7EB-42E1-B686-5462EA38E5A5.jpg
The vise takes three of these so I will look into getting some more fabricated.
One note is that the teeth (since we’re talking about teeth) are not the same size and gradually shrink towards the centre.
844E70F5-FF24-4A30-BE5A-C3C8DD6E9262.jpg
Thrumcap
:canada:

THRUM, IIRC, you got a 634 a couple of years ago, now you got 2 more!!! Awesome score:thumbup:

If ever you want to sell one, PLEASE let me know:)

Oldie, I hope they find its something easier to treat than COPD.

My biggest vise score happened today. No Usuck prices here, I went to my first auction in decades, and I'd class this one as my first, "pro" auction, complete with "buyers premium" (as in lets **** the buyers for even more than we **** the sellers...)

Ah well, just make sure you figure thst into what you bid...

What got me there was the description, and the pic of 7 vises, all looking pretty good!

So the auction starts on time. I spent the first third just watching and learning, as they were selling stuff I wasn't that interested in, or was WAY over priced for what they got. Very few "deals"

We move into the "shop" area, and more stuff I wasn't bidding on; I thought I might if the Anvils didn't get into stupid money... a pretty nice portable forge came up and went for stupid $$... I was not getting good vibes for when the vices finally came up. a Baldor 3/4 HP buffer on a Baldor stand came up and I let that go as well as it was near into stupid $$

The anvils went for breathtaking sums! Stunningly the smaller one went for as much or more as the one 2X its size! (A Vulcan).

A lot more stuff I wasn't bidding on... FINALLY they went for the vises, (had to practically beg then to do them). First up was a 5" Wilton bullet without a base. otherwise in GREAT condition (all the vises were in great condition, however there were not 7 but only 4. (Someone cherry picking? )


I won the Wilton with my last bid and then would have let it go.. NOT stupid $$ and I can make its cost and then some back...

Next was a 4-1/2" Rock Island Pattern Makers vise and I bid and bid as with the Wilton and got it for less than the Wilton! and AGAIN, at my limit! I was happy about this one as its my first pattern makers vise, and a good one! I've been wanting one for YEARS!

Third up was Prentess fixed base, swivel jaw (missing the pin) and I again won at my limit!

the fourth was a Columbian and I let that one go, it went at a good price for the buyer!

And the main event! the vises, in the order won!

The Wilton:
attachment.php


The Rock Island:

attachment.php


and the Prentiss:

attachment.php

OUTLAW, great score :beer: All very nice, but have to echo previous comments, that RI Coachmaker's is a beauty.


When I was in the Air Force, I had an "In" Box, an "Out" Box, and a "Ponder" Box on my desk...If it stayed in the "Ponder" box for over 90 days, and no one asked me about it, I put it in the round file...

As one ages, one ponders about "What might have been...if....???"

I smoked for 54 years...

It got me an Abdominal Aortic Aneurysm, that damn near killed me...

The never ending fear that Lung Cancer awaits around every bend...

And now my Doctor has told me that I "probably" have COPD (Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease...)...Oh Joy!!!

Now I'll have to deal with the COPD, but do you know what really pisses me off about smoking that long???

I smoked up...

1.) THREE Porsches...
2.) FIVE Really nice Pickups...
3.) ONE Really nice HOUSE!!!!

That's what pisses me off!!!!!

And what kind of "What if's", do you ponder???

OLDIE, nothing but hopes and prayers for you. You are destined to get a 5197/98, so you aren't going anywhere anytime soon :thumbup:

And a few more photos

GMAN, absolute beauty :bowdown:
 

BillyWhitehorse

New member
Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
3
Billy, if the jaws are pinned in you can take the slide all the way out and knock the pins out from the bottom.---Sometimes they/the pins are hard to find because they are covered with gunk.---Just take a wire brush and give the bottom a good scrubbing and you will probably see them.



Thanks! I’m debating about that step, because I’m unsure if I can get a replacement.


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twertsy

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Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Messages
6,726
Location
Reedville, VA

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Razorhunter

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Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
Hey guys, couple of Reed questions that I'd like to get cleared up.

-What was the general consensus on the "A" models, which I've seen very few of? There is currently a Reed "204A" on ebay right now if anyone cares to have a look. Ive seen them mentioned in this thread before, but I'm still wondering what, if anything, is unique about them as compared to any other Reed 204?

-Also, can you guys tell me what makes an "R" model vise, an R model vise? I had been thinking the R model vises were the snub-nosed, split collar vises. However, I recently came across a Reed R model vise, and it did not jave the snub nose spindle. It had the older, spherical, art-deco style spindle, in conjunction with the split collar. Thanks for any help here guys.


ETA: Tell me what you guys think about this. Shown, is what we normally think of as Reed "200" series vises, such as 204/204 1/2/205/206 etc. These vises are fixed jaw-swivel base. However, catalog page here shows them as "100" series vises with "S" notation. Such as 104S/105S/106S

Well dang I hope you guys can see the pic clearly. Its a screenshot I stole off the net and it basically shows all the fixed jaw, swivel base vises on the top right of page, as being "100-S" series vises. In other words, 103S/104S/105S/106S, as opposed to what we normally see as 203R/204R/205R/206R.

Can anyone explain this Reed anomaly to me, and could anyone possibly clear the blurred picture up for me?
 

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gman007

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May 17, 2017
Messages
2,735
Location
West Michigan
Hey guys, couple of Reed questions that I'd like to get cleared up.

-Also, can you guys tell me what makes an "R" model vise, an R model vise? I had been thinking the R model vises were the snub-nosed, split collar vises. However, I recently came across a Reed R model vise, and it did not jave the snub nose spindle. It had the older, spherical, art-deco style spindle, in conjunction with the split collar. Thanks for any help here guys.
Razor
I believe this subject has come up here before. Apparently during switch over to R models, there was a short transition period where some of the R models were build using the older parts in stock. So what you saw was probably a transition R model (at least that is my recollection of how this was explained previously)
 

chrisnazzy

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Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
1,671
Location
Arizona
Just got a drop shipment from Rustoleum that I ordered from HD. Hammered Light Blue. 20180425_103927.jpg

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