3.125 wide glulam header on 2x6 walls

[YukonXL04]

Hey guys, so my local lumber company only offer glulam beams in 3.125 or 5.125 widths both by 14" tall. The 3.125 thickness I am told is plenty for my 18ft span for gable end garage door header. Now my local code states the beam must run end to end on my 24ft wide building. So I have to get a 24ft long beam, their lvl beams only go to 20ft.

Can I use the 3.125 and RIP spacer studs ie:2x4 down to 2.375 and space them on my 16"oc for a interior nailing surface?

Trying to save on weight vs picking up a 24ft 5.125x14" beam. Cause even with the 5.125 I would have to cut 3/8s ply to fill the void.

Let's hear your thoughts

 

[climb.on]

If the beam meets code you can fill it in however you want. I would put spacers on the inside and headers on the outside most likely. Another option for spacing is to sandwich 2" foam and 7/16 osb. That would insulate the header nicely and give you a thermal break.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

The end to end beam for a door is called a portal wall

As far as lvls, find a better lumberyard. Lvls are made in 60+ foot lengths and cut to order. Any truss company, real lumberyard or even Menards can get you what you need.

I just built a deck that needed a treated parallam/glullam 5.125x14x18. Had I been able to use normal lvls, it would have been under $250. Since I needed a treated glullamnitnwas over $800. Look harder for an lvl for an interior wall header.

 

[YukonXL04]

Good to know. I might go the 2" foam route. I'll look into that more. If I RIP studs for filler I'll put them on the inside.

Went to 2 other lumber yards around both were more expensive and much less organized to work with. I'm guessing because I'm a homeowner and not a contractor they didn't want to help me at all, so I crossed them off my list. We don't have menards down here

The 3.125"x14"x24' glulam is $202
The 5.125"x14"x24' glulam is $324

As for the lvl, I thought that was strange that they stop at 20'. The glulam will suit me just fine though.

I'll look a little harder into a lvl though if it will save me worthwhile money.

 

[matt_i]

I agree with the other posters suggesting to special order the LVL, if you can find a place that does enough volume it should just ship with "the next order" and shouldn't be a massive upcharge other than just the extra linear footage in my opinion.

 

[GMCGarage]

Hey guys, so my local lumber company only offer glulam beams in 3.125 or 5.125 widths both by 14" tall. The 3.125 thickness I am told is plenty for my 18ft span for gable end garage door header. Now my local code states the beam must run end to end on my 24ft wide building. So I have to get a 24ft long beam, their lvl beams only go to 20ft.

Can I use the 3.125 and RIP spacer studs ie:2x4 down to 2.375 and space them on my 16"oc for a interior nailing surface?

Trying to save on weight vs picking up a 24ft 5.125x14" beam. Cause even with the 5.125 I would have to cut 3/8s ply to fill the void.

Let's hear your thoughts

So you have to put up a 24' beam, and then frame in below where you dont need an opening? what crazy state do you live in??

 

[YukonXL04]

So you have to put up a 24' beam, and then frame in below where you dont need an opening? what crazy state do you live in??

Lol arlington texas... it's supposed to help with the wind bracing since the side walls are only 3ft wide on each side of the garage door. So I'm told anyways. It's the way the plans were speced. 24x30x12 garage. 18x10 door on the front. I downsized from a 20x10 door.

 

[ishiboo]

Find another supplier. Our lumber yard stocks long pieces they cut into whatever length you need, and both my big box stores here will deliver up to 40'.

 

[Homerr]

It was stated above, but yes the 3.125" wide beam should be placed to the outer side of the 5.5" wall. The exterior plywood will extend from the studs below up over the beam to form a connection. If the beam was set to the inside this connection would lack strength.

The continuous beam over the garage door opening and side walls isn't a 'crazy state', it's good structural design that achieves a fair result for a few bucks worth of beam.

http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/framing/portal-frame-holdown-rules-revised_o

In the NW glulam beams are always cheaper than LSL/PSL of equivalent strength for the job.

 

[Radix2]

Come on guys, it is only a $202 glulam.

Let the guy pack it out and move on. How much savings is he going to get going farther afield to find an lvl?

Try some different materials to fill it out easily, foam is a good idea.

 

[bczygan]

Never used anything except LVL's for that application.

Bill

 

[YukonXL04]

Yea I'm still planning everything out. Hoping to be ordering everything here in the next couple weeks.

I did some reading on that portal wall and yea that's the way my plans are drawn up. I did some reading on portal walls and I like what I am seeing as far as strength. I will do the spacing on the inner side and leave the beam side on the outer edge.

Doing some research shows the 3.125x14 beam is rated for a eve side bearing, so will be plenty for a table side.

I think I might go the foam route, some extra insulation is always good. The walls will be 5.5" fiberglass bats. The garage door will be insulated as well.

 

[RocketScott]

What is the wall height and how tall is the garage door opening?

If you have enough room you can just nail a 2x6 to the bottom side of the beam. You don't need a vertical every 16".

 

[YukonXL04]

What is the wall height and how tall is the garage door opening?

If you have enough room you can just nail a 2x6 to the bottom side of the beam. You don't need a vertical every 16".

Wall height is 12ft. Door is 10ft. Plenty of room. Then just add a couple verticals were the drywall meets

It will have a 2x6 there anyways for the door trim out

 

[Wildstar]

Call Teague Lumber in Fort Worth

 

[Lelandwelds]

If the beam meets code you can fill it in however you want. I would put spacers on the inside and headers on the outside most likely. Another option for spacing is to sandwich 2" foam and 7/16 osb. That would insulate the header nicely and give you a thermal break.

I bet you accidentally asked the laziest guy on the contractors desk. The beam you want probably has a pop up screen that he doesn't know how to complete.

 

[RocketScott]

Wall height is 12ft. Door is 10ft. Plenty of room. Then just add a couple verticals were the drywall meets

It will have a 2x6 there anyways for the door trim out

That will work to have the beam pushed to the top plate. The build out under the beam won't be very tall. I don't like having a large wall hanging under a beam unsupported. Yes, it should sit to the outside of the wall.

You don't need to put verticals behind the seams unless there is some weird requirement from the engineer for shear nailing on the drywall. All the shear should be on the outside sheeting. The beam is 14" tall. Drywall can span 14".

Make sure you put in blocks for the garage door tracks and one in the middle for the opener (if you need it).