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Split Bolt type for AL/ CU connection ?

Marctrees

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I need to join #3 CU to #1 AL.

Have to extend the feed just a few feet to an exist subpanel at my own property.

Can I use the old style all copper/ brass colored split bolts that I have on hand w some layered Noalox, or do I need to search out the like two colored ones??

Live rural, would have find them at decent price, and pay to get shipped to me.

Not being inspected, but want to do it right.

Don't know how Code requires dissimilar split bolted.

Thank you, Marc
 
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Marctrees

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I've been reading and it looks like my old ones are not approved for AL.

Looks like the new ones that are.. some are bi color, some are AL color, but I guess it does have to say CU/AL.

So I guess I gotta spend like $60 to order 4 of these.

And on top of it, online listings don't reliably list the CU/AL always definitavely.

So it might be a sending return loop goose chase.

So.... What do I do?



Marc
 
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alfredeneuman

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You need a split bolt with a separator to keep the copper away from the aluminum like this:
7483392b-a16c-4176-b3f8-f41eb09b1cd7_1.5033cb93a8a93a53db7941815f2fca09.jpeg


Either that or a 2 port NSI "polaris" connector
 

rlitman

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The Polaris connector is FAR superior. Split bolts don't work well with no-alox, because the grease interferes with the tape sticking. Polaris connectors have integrated plastic insulation, so grease all you want.
 

tyme2par4

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You need a split bolt with a separator to keep the copper away from the aluminum like this:
7483392b-a16c-4176-b3f8-f41eb09b1cd7_1.5033cb93a8a93a53db7941815f2fca09.jpeg


Either that or a 2 port NSI "polaris" connector

This Exactly. You need a KSU25 or a KSA1/0.
The KSU is tin plated copper, while the KSA is tin plated aluminum. Both options would be UL Listed for the application you specified. You also wouldn't be required to use No-Ox with the KSA.

Or you could go with the multitap if you prefer that style.
 
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Bert_

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The Polaris connector is FAR superior. Split bolts don't work well with no-alox, because the grease interferes with the tape sticking. Polaris connectors have integrated plastic insulation, so grease all you want.

A polaris connector is definitely faster, but a properly torqued split bolt is just as good.

3 to use, one to drop down the hole.

Ok, thanks for answers guys.

Marc

I learned that one long ago, at least you are honest with yourself.:lol_hitti
 
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Marctrees

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How in the world does that above GD connector work for such a huge size range ???

Anyway, I used to tape split bolts quite a bit years ago, got very good at it, so no prob w that.

Marc
 
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Marctrees

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I just happened to see the exact barrel type connector CJ7 said at store today, understand now.

Might be ok for me also.. size is adequate, and CU/AL approved.

Would sure be quicker to tape !!

Marc
 

teamextreme

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I was always taught to use this 3M rubbery tape over the split bolt first, then regular electrical tape. Helps prevent any sharp edges poking through the tape and also eliminates the grease and tape sticking concern.
 

rlitman

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I just happened to see the exact barrel type connector CJ7 said at store today, understand now.

Might be ok for me also.. size is adequate, and CU/AL approved.

Would sure be quicker to tape !!

Marc

Many of those come in kits with heat shrink, so tape isn't even necessary.
Plus there's the advantage of not having to fit a golf ball of tape into your box.
 

PT Doc

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I used Polaris connectors that were recommended on this site an they worked out great. There are specific in lb torque recommendations based on wire gauge. That worked out well in my double gang in wall box with 4wire pairs.
 
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