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'78 F350 Dually Project

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Riv: look at it this way with all the work you are doing you shouldn't have to do it again and as far as the wiring I hope you find the fix soon. also look at all the new skills and knowledge you have learned and you can share with us.

have a great day!!

PS: found an honest roofer to mention even if it's a 3 month wait?

cheers
 
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Offcenter12

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Hi RivennHewn,
I feel your pain, I have a 1979 F-350 and all my electrical issues have been corrosion related. This stuff is your friend. The 100 doesn't have any solvent, but I've always had pretty good luck with the 5% solution D5 which is easier to find. My local True Value in West Seattle even carries it.
http://caig.com/deoxit-spray-selections/
 
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RivennHewn

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Fr8, 1/2, Drives,

Thanks.

One bulb.

I over twisted the tail light. The socket was a bit munched, and when I over twisted it, I ended up back feeding power to the ground, which in turn feed all the bulbs thru their grounds(earth).

I managed to straighten up the copper part of the socket to better hold the bulb.

All in working order now, back on the road again :thumbup:

Offcenter,

I've never seen that product before, but I'm going to have to give it a try.

I've been cleaning all my sockets and connectors with contact cleaner and a canned gas blower.
iAGl
 

Offcenter12

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Glad you found the problem. As others have said, it's amazing 12 volts does everything it's tasked with on a vehicle. The CRC and air is a good technique so I wouldn't ditch it. The difference in the Deoxit is I believe it has some kind of acid/neutralizer boogie woogie magic in it that dissolves the oxidation. The electricians at work swear by it for cleaning crusty switches, relays, and contacts in remote locations and equipment not easily accessed. I've had good luck with it on trailer plugs, dome light switches, and home stereos!
 
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RivennHewn

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Glad you found the problem. As others have said, it's amazing 12 volts does everything it's tasked with on a vehicle. The CRC and air is a good technique so I wouldn't ditch it. The difference in the Deoxit is I believe it has some kind of acid/neutralizer boogie woogie magic in it that dissolves the oxidation. The electricians at work swear by it for cleaning crusty switches, relays, and contacts in remote locations and equipment not easily accessed. I've had good luck with it on trailer plugs, dome light switches, and home stereos!


I'll be headed to ACE to pick some up this weekend. I have more connections I want to address. Thanks again,

Fr8,

Isn't the saying "mechanics is 15 minutes diagnosing and 3 hrs repairing, Electrical is 3 hrs diagnosing and 5 minutes repairing"?
 

nsula_country

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Riven,

You are inspiring me to start work again on my 1979 Chevrolet C20... It's a SRW, but I think it needs a flatbed, maybe with a dump cylinder. Would have to go electric hydraulic unit, it has a TH400 transmission. Don't think there is a PTO option on a 3 spd auto...

Keep it up, you are making great progress.

CT
 
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RivennHewn

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Riven,

You are inspiring me to start work again on my 1979 Chevrolet C20... It's a SRW, but I think it needs a flatbed, maybe with a dump cylinder. Would have to go electric hydraulic unit, it has a TH400 transmission. Don't think there is a PTO option on a 3 spd auto...

Keep it up, you are making great progress.

CT

I'm not opposed to posting pics of Chevys on my thread:)

Post up a pic of your truck. Would love to see it!
 
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RivennHewn

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There are two little things that bother me about my truck.

I have a fuel tank transfer switch and AC switch on my heater controls.

I don't have dual tanks, or AC.

Simple problem to fix, right?

I found a heater control unit w/o AC and dual tank switches. Easy swap, right?

No, not easy.
w4Kw


The AC control unit is not the same as the non-AC type.
The AC unit is controlled with vacuum switches, and the non-AC is controlled by cables.

mechanically controlled electro-vacuum switches are nothing but pure VooDoo.
I don't, and don't really want to understand how these things work.
0znc


And this
m2hF

Is enough to make my head hurt, and my blood pressure to rise.

I really didn't need another puzzle to figure out.

All I want to do is drive my damn truck.
 

C_F

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All I want to do is drive my damn truck.
Sounds like you should have stuck to the old saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". :bounce:

By this time, you have realized the heater box is completely different too, right? I'll try to remember to rummage through my junk when I get home tonight & see if I may have anything that will help you. I'll post back later with my findings. :)
 
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RivennHewn

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Thanks CF,

I managed to make a few minor alterations to the "new" unit.

I had to cut a slot for the lower vacuum switch, and cut the back end of the control arm off, basically removing the cable attachment point.

I now have a partially vacuum/ partially cable controlled unit.

A bit of Franken-truck engineering, but it works.

All installed and functioning as it should. :pimpflash

e1ur
 
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RivennHewn

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Cool, looks like you have it handled. :thumbup:

Finally.

I will say, the new clear plastic gauge cover was the best $20 bucks I've spent yet. Such a huge improvement over the old scratched up/hazed/discolored one I was looking thru.

Overall, I've been pretty happy with all the parts I've received from LMC.

I still have to decide what to do with the radio hole. I was going to mount my switch plate there. Now I'm thinking I may want a new radio, just because I don't want to mess up my new bezel.

nPwz
 
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drivesitfar

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Riv: huge progress and your truck keeps looking better all the time. keep up the good work and best of luck installing the newly painted door and hood and the rear window and.....

like others i'm sort of waiting to see if you start working on that old 40's or 50's truck that is sitting inside your DAD'S garage if that might be on your TO DO LIST.

cheers
 
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RivennHewn

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Drives,

I'm kind of thinking I'd like to get the truck painted sometime this fall/winter. A little progress every day is all I want to see.

Not in any hurry at all. Even with all the frustrations, I'm actually really enjoying the process. The fact that I may be learning a few things is a bonus.

Still, working on two trucks at one time would be the end of me.
 

zkdiesel

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Tach and extra gauge ideas for you
Mines a non ac truck that’s non winter driven, so the heater controls(cable) is mounted inside the glovebox
 

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Strouty

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My Father just asked me if I had any interest in the crew cab F700 he has, it is this style body, I am not a FORD guy, but it is pretty neat. I would like to install a cummins in it, but the front end is very weird, it doesn't steer very well at all. So it may be a neat looking truck, but not a very functional one.
 

zkdiesel

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My Father just asked me if I had any interest in the crew cab F700 he has, it is this style body, I am not a FORD guy, but it is pretty neat. I would like to install a cummins in it, but the front end is very weird, it doesn't steer very well at all. So it may be a neat looking truck, but not a very functional one.
I have a buyer if you wanna see it go down the road if it’s not cancered out
 

Strouty

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I am not sure if it is or not, I have not really looked at it in a long time. I think I posted a pick in your thread a while ago. If I remember correctly it is a 428 gas engine and has an Alison auto. Marmon Herrington did the 4x4 conversion, it also has air brakes. Seeing you guys remake these trucks has made me think it would be a cool project for sure.
 

Toolfool

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Finally.

I will say, the new clear plastic gauge cover was the best $20 bucks I've spent yet. Such a huge improvement over the old scratched up/hazed/discolored one I was looking thru.

Overall, I've been pretty happy with all the parts I've received from LMC.

I still have to decide what to do with the radio hole. I was going to mount my switch plate there. Now I'm thinking I may want a new radio, just because I don't want to mess up my new bezel.

nPwz

You can have the am/fm 8-track deck I pulled out of my '75. Don't know if it works, but you've been pretty resourceful so far.
 
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RivennHewn

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Tach and extra gauge ideas for you
Mines a non ac truck that’s non winter driven, so the heater controls(cable) is mounted inside the glovebox

Clean.

I've never seen that tach before. I probably would have hunted one down if I'd known they existed. :dunno:

I was just looking at that same stereo you have. What do you think of it?


Strouty,

Always room for more truck pics here. Post em up!
How'd that table turn out for ya?

Tool,

Craig powerplay, or Kraco Dashmaster?

Good enough to get ur groove on either way :pimpflash

Back to the hood paint prep today.
Thought it was going to be easy.

Seems there is more work to be done than initially thought.

No real rust or bondo, but the PO didn't get a very good job done.

There seems to be spots that never fully cured, and are still soft. easily scratched with a fingernail. They just gum up sandpaper immediately.
SHaC

There are a lot of what looks like the spray tip was spitting little blobs all over.
Eekf


And a fair bit of alligator cracking that looks like it may go all the way through the original paint.
Hu6O

v1nS


I cleaned, de-waxed/ de-oiled the hood, then scratch sanded it before spraying a sanding coat of primer on it. Then found all the problems.

Should I be thinking of sending it out to get the whole thing stripped?


All,

Enjoy your Memorial Day weekend.

Many thanks, gratitude, and respect to all those who paid the price for us.
 

zkdiesel

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That tach was from my donor f800 that I rigged up in my gash and it’s specifically designed to read off a two wire magnetic sensor off the ring gear with adjustments on back
I have it adjust to 50ish rpm at 2k

You can get one out of a 90’s ford f600-800 that had a gas job for your application.

Radio works well, and am happy with it for a budget radio that doesn’t look out of place. My truck has retro look....

As far as sending hood out for stripping, never had good luck as asshats heat it up and warp them with the sand blaster due to sheer size. How about chemicaly stripping it yourself?

FYI I hate bodywork/paint work other than steel fab, and really color blind so I can’t paint worth a Fawk, hence why mine getting painted this winter in trade for mechanical work on friends truck
 

bluebolt

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I am not sure if it is or not, I have not really looked at it in a long time. I think I posted a pick in your thread a while ago. If I remember correctly it is a 428 gas engine and has an Alison auto. Marmon Herrington did the 4x4 conversion, it also has air brakes. Seeing you guys remake these trucks has made me think it would be a cool project for sure.


If it's a 428 it's not original although updating a FE 360 or 390 or FT 361 or 391 was often done in the past.
 
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RivennHewn

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ZK,

The way I see it, the only reason I'm still alive today is that I'm about as Red/Green color blind as they come.

I found out that little fact as an 18 year old aspiring bush pilot is Alaska.

I went for my physical, and they gave me the color vision test. I failed.

No commercial pilot's license for me.

As the saying goes, as a bush pilot it's a matter of when you crash - not if you'll crash.



I have more time than money for this old truck. You're right, a can of stripper is a lot cheaper than having someone mess up my hood.
ictt


Gloves and glasses with this ****, it's hot.
 
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RivennHewn

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Well ****,

I used the stripper on the problem areas, and took everything down to bare metal.

Seems the tan layer is filler.

Previously, there was a full layer of filler applied. might be where most of the problems come from.

It's soft, and makes a **** ton of dust.

It's also thick.

I'm thinking it's going to need to all come off, which means stripping the whole damn thing.

6spW

cOwr

jUlb
 

Strouty

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There is always something lurking under there.

Not t surprisingly, I have not finished my table yet. We got my GF’s bench top done, but mine is waiting patiently. I will try and get a couple pics of the F-700 today.

ZK you are correct on the engine, it had a 370? In it, at least that is what my memory says. It was gutless and we put the 428 in it and then it was just a little less gutless, but it drank more fuel.
 

Bears Fan

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Looks like your going to have to go clear down to bare metal on the hood!!! Nice photo of all the layers hiding underneath there :wtf: It will be worth it in the long run though :thumbup:
 

bluebolt

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There is always something lurking under there.

Not t surprisingly, I have not finished my table yet. We got my GF’s bench top done, but mine is waiting patiently. I will try and get a couple pics of the F-700 today.

ZK you are correct on the engine, it had a 370? In it, at least that is what my memory says. It was gutless and we put the 428 in it and then it was just a little less gutless, but it drank more fuel.

If it had a 370 more likely the replacement was a 429, same 385 series engine family and it would bolt in. If it had a 391 the likely replacement would be a 428, same FE engine family.
 

Strouty

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Could be, it was a long time ago and I am not a ford guy, but I thought I remembered the 428 as I thought it was odd. The transmission was a bigger truck transmission, so it would probably have some sort of SAE adapter anyways.
 
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RivennHewn

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Looks like your going to have to go clear down to bare metal on the hood!!! Nice photo of all the layers hiding underneath there :wtf: It will be worth it in the long run though :thumbup:

I sent an email into a company that specializes in media blasting auto panels.

Will be interesting to see what they come back with.


I managed to get the little switch panel installed today. Kinda looks like a WWII bomber
panel. The metal came off my old oil burning furnace, circa 1948
Cqsz


It all runs off an auxiliary fuse block off the 2nd battery.
oApH



I still have a few projects with the wiring.

First, there is a little light/socket behind the bezel between the light switch and the wiper switch that illuminates the labels. I don't have the socket or any wiring there. On the hunt for that part.

When I find it I need to wire in the tach light to the same wire, as they both feed off the dash lights.

Last, I don't have any back-up lights when I hit reverse. The existing tail lights don't have provisions for that. I'll need to add some lights, and figure out where the switch needs to mount. I haven't even begun to look into this as of yet.

Then, maybe I'll really be finished with the wiring / lights.
 
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zkdiesel

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Was out working on this 74/2013 for a friend most of today trying to get the xl truck and lariat trim packages to jive and diagnose all what needs to be fixed In lighting, Srs and airbag
 

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