The VISES of Garage Journal

[MayerMR]

Newbie vise guy question. . . .

I have been using linseed oil on my vises, but they are rusting. I put on the oil, then wipe off gently, as not to remove it all.

What should I use?

Thamks!

I'm a newbie to the whole boiled linseed oil thing myself, but I did just do a cheap ole Chinese anvil today with it for the first time - it seems pretty easy. First I wire-wheeled the whole thing down, blew off the dust with my compressor, and then wiped on a relatively thickish layer of BLO, but not overly thick, just a decent coating. I then left it to sit in the Texas sun all day today and by the end of the day it's dry enough for me to touch without having sticky gunk all over my fingertips. That said, I'd not want to try to pick it up yet, still somewhat "tacky". I'm going to let it sit outside over the next few days since we don't have any rain in the forecast, but we do have a lot of heat forecasted. I assume that by the end of tomorrow it'll be pretty dry...but a few days should really set it up - I think...

 

[drivesitfar]

Mayer: since you've got hot sunshine cooking your BLO on i'd do several light coats, but your fairly heavy coat should firm up soon.

Boot: if you are going to use Plain Linseed oil some of the guys add beeswax and a few other ingredients. i've been using Boiled linseed oil on a lot of my naked steel and other than turning them a bit darker it seems to keep the rust away and I live in the PNW where you might know things can get a bit rusty around here if they sit around without anything on naked steel.

Good luck all of you.

ALL: in case you didn't see a few of my pictures earlier of a few of my Reeds that I put BLO on years ago and haven't had to add any BLO since here's a few. The Reed 4c was sandblasted and had maybe 3 coats put on it about 4 years ago and the Reed 2c was just cleaned and 2 coats put on 2 years ago. for those of you that might want to warn me i already moved the Reed 2c to the middle shelf and the 4c to the bottom shelf cause the 2c was collapsing the top shelf that wasn't as solid as the middle shelf on this old oak cabinet.

 

[LesserSon]

Newbie vise guy question. . . .

I have been using linseed oil on my vises, but they are rusting. I put on the oil, then wipe off gently, as not to remove it all.

What should I use?

Thamks!

Unheated garage? Damp basement? Don’t forget you’re in PA.
Ideally, the metal should be warm (uncomfortable to hold) before application and kept that way for a day or more after application in dry weather.
How rusty? BLO will darken steel, as it contains chemical “driers” which I believe are oxidizers. These should have a limited effect on metal, as the oil cures and seals out further oxidation. But if there is damp or salt under the BLO, it’s trapped there.

 

[Fretters]

Newbie vise guy question. . . .

I have been using linseed oil on my vises, but they are rusting. I put on the oil, then wipe off gently, as not to remove it all.

What should I use?

Thamks!

Put it on and then leave it for at least a few hours before you remove the excess. It's rare that you'll ever coat the surface completely in just one pass, so a couple of coats minimum for full protection.

I've even had slight surface rust on a couple of my pieces recently, due to winter & the nigh on incessant wet weather over the last few months. On things like rough cast, it's hard to coat every nook and cranny, so you preferably need to let things seep/creep when applying. It's rarely owt which a quick wipe over with a rag won't sort though, when you get some slight surface rust.

 

[MayerMR]

Mayer: since you've got hot sunshine cooking your BLO on i'd do several light coats, but your fairly heavy coat should firm up soon.

Drives,

Quick follow-up question; I checked on it this morning and it felt even closer to be dry - I'd bet that it'll be done by the time I get home. Do I need to scuff up the surface before applying another coat or is it still likely to be tacky under the dry top layer (like oil paints)? I also coated the face of the anvil but now I'm thinking I shouldn't have...should I clean it off with a solvent and use paste wax or just use it as-is with the BLO? I just don't want to get a lot of transfer to whatever I'm pounding on of dried BLO, if that makes sense.

Thanks!

-Matt

 

[drivesitfar]

MR: depends I guess on how you are going to use your little anvil, but I’d imagine whether you are using hot or cold steel to pound on it I’d probably keep it naked and clean. Belt sanding off surface rust or just hand sanding shouldn’t be too difficult when you are ready to use the anvil.

 

[va.grouseman]

Never cared to purchase a Pennypincher but this combo made me put one in my pile.---Manual Power-arm.---I'm going to see what else will mount to it.

 

[MayerMR]

VA: That's a cute little sucker

 

[gman007]

Never cared to purchase a Pennypincher but this combo made me put one in my pile.---Manual Power-arm.---I'm going to see what else will mount to it.

Va Wow, that is one amazing looking vise. As I have said before you often somehow manage to find some of the most novel and interesting vises!

 

[Razorhunter]

Picked my atlas up about 15 yrs ago foe $165, divorce sale.
Pics are an issue because we can't get internet at our new house and cell reception is horrible, data very sketchy at times.

$165 eh. That's an odd number but a damn good one. Nothing better than a good 'ol divorce sale. I've benefited from quite a few myself. These days, I swear at least half the tools I entertain online are from women sellers. Granted, some are likely just listing the items for their husbands, but still you gotta wonder....

Btw, Drivesitfar,
Thats interesting that you actually BLO'd a vise that you bead blasted. I always wondered how such a combo would turn out. I always thought it wouldnt turn out too well but it looks better than I expected.

 

[Razorhunter]

Heres a couple stick welding pics I have to say I'm actually very proud of guys. I had previously written off the SMAW process as a candidate for repairing cast iron, but since I do not have a good TIG rig yet, I had to improvise and make do with what I had. You gotta run what you brung ya know.
SO, after really putting in some time burning rods here lately, I am happy to say I am going to use some Ni99 rod here soon for a couple cast iron repairs I've got on the back burner. Here's some 7014 rod examples. 7018 burns even better like butter. Main problems I had to overcome were not running enough heat (amps) and moving too fast not controlling the puddle. Happy to announce I've overcome those issues now!

ETA
-Well dang, most of the pics I forgot to take in landscape mode for this forum. Stay tuned for more pics though guys.
I also scored a TIG torch with gas valve cheap, so I will also be doing some old school scratch start/lift arc TIG with this old stick welder I got soon, if I ever get around to getting a bottle of argon in the shop.

 

[Fordriver6]

Anybody seen or know anything about a "pneumatic" vise such as this monster?!?!?

Only thing I can find out is that it's supposedly custom. A Google reverse image search only goes to Pinterest.

 

[Outlawmws]

Those big jaws were weld on additions, probably for a custom application. It's possible the pneumatics were added as well.

 

[Pdnetzer]

Can anyone tell me about this bench vise?

 

[trijeff]

That pneumatic looks like a Franken-Columbian

 

[va.grouseman]

Here's a Morgan Outlaw posted sometime back.---It's similar but not as big and not hydraulic.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334897&stc=1&d=1398012718

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334898&stc=1&d=1398012718

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334899&stc=1&d=1398012718

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334900&stc=1&d=1398012718

 

[Razorhunter]

Anybody seen or know anything about a "pneumatic" vise such as this monster?!?!?

Only thing I can find out is that it's supposedly custom. A Google reverse image search only goes to Pinterest.

Hey Fordriver,
How does one reverse Google search an image????

 

[Fordriver6]

Razor, I'm using Chrome on an Android phone. All I do is touch and hold the pic and when the menu pops up, select "search Google for this image".

I'll get on my computer here shortly and figure out how to do it on there, although I'm sure someone will probably beat me to it on how to do it on Chrome and other browsers from a computer.

Edit:. Here is a link on how to do it on browsers and mobile platforms.

https://www.techperiod.com/google-reverse-image-search-mobile-desktop/

 

[gman007]

Razor, I'm using Chrome on an Android phone. All I do is touch and hold the pic and when the menu pops up, select "search Google for this image".

I'll get on my computer here shortly and figure out how to do it on there, although I'm sure someone will probably beat me to it on how to do it on Chrome and other browsers from a computer.

Edit:. Here is a link on how to do it on browsers and mobile platforms.

https://www.techperiod.com/google-reverse-image-search-mobile-desktop/

On your PC, using Chrome, simply right click on the image and select search goggle for image

 

[454ragtop]

Anybody seen or know anything about a "pneumatic" vise such as this monster?!?!?

Only thing I can find out is that it's supposedly custom. A Google reverse image search only goes to Pinterest.

Pretty sure that vise, or one real similar was posted here before, no idea how to find it in this mega thread though.

 

[Razorhunter]

Cool got it thanks guys.

 

[twertsy]

Guys, I could use some assistance. I've been researching Fisher & Norris this morning (or Eagle Anvil Works) and I'm having trouble locating a pic of an advert or actual vise with the moniker "Fisher-Brooks." The timeframe is 1909 to about 1911, and they are described as Machinist Vise, Woodworker's Vise, and Swivel Bench Vise.

I can't find any relevant patents, but there was a Harold Fisher-Brooks who was Mrs. Carl Fisher's (President of the company) nephew and "right hand man" at Eagle during this timeframe.

I added more research information to the company page here: http://toolarchives.com/node/3388

 

[Diesel Dan]

$165 eh. That's an odd number but a damn good one. Nothing better than a good 'ol divorce sale. I've benefited from quite a few myself. These days, I swear at least half the tools I entertain online are from women sellers. Granted, some are likely just listing the items for their husbands, but still you gotta wonder....

Bought it from the husband, needed money for the divorce and to clean stuff out. Listed it for $175 but if memory serves me right neither of us could break a $20!

Years later bought a Ford 550 TLB from the wife of a divorce. She got the tractor he got the trailer. Trailer was a POS so I passed on that and drove the backhoe 25+ miles home.

 

[mtgrizzlymn69]

Got the taskmaster 5 done finally


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[BKF]

Great bench saver. Very elegant design.

I just picked up a Chas Parker 376 that's a swivel base AND swivel jaw. I see that your doesn't have a swivel base. Was that an option or variation on the 376?

My vise weighs close to 170 pounds. I haven't actually been able to get it on a bathroom scale - it's way too bulky and heavy.

Do you have any suggestions on how to free up the swivel jaw. I've had limited luck so far.

 

[gman007]

Great bench saver. Very elegant design.

I just picked up a Chas Parker 376 that's a swivel base AND swivel jaw. I see that your doesn't have a swivel base. Was that an option or variation on the 376?

My vise weighs close to 170 pounds. I haven't actually been able to get it on a bathroom scale - it's way too bulky and heavy.

Do you have any suggestions on how to free up the swivel jaw. I've had limited luck so far.

BKF First of all great find. Now are you sure the model is 376 and not 386? If it is 386 then it should weigh around 174 #.

As for the swivel jaws have you tried the usual methods kroil, soaking in ATF, electrolysis, etc? Personally my last resort for a vise would be to use heat/cold as I am always worried about vise parts cooling off too fast and cracking, some have suggested after application of heat to bury the parts in sand to moderate the cooling rate.

PS
it will be great if you could post some photos (use the paper clip icon in the advanced posting option to upload your photos)

 

[gman007]

Got the taskmaster 5 done finally


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

MT nice restoration job

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Hit a Texas Hill Country estate sale this morning. I was able to snag this Reed 214 R vise for $45 + tax so just under $50. It looks to be in great shape. The swivel lock is too corroded/rusted/dirty to move by hand but I expect it will with a little leverage. The jaws faces don't look to have been abused but I'm wondering if the top of both jaws has been taken down with a grinder. Are they the way they came from Reed originally?

I really liked that 104-1/2 R I picked up a month ago but since the jaw support was broken on it I decided to sell it. Really excited to find another nice Reed. Look forward to cleaning it up!

Mike

 

[gman007]

Hit a Texas Hill Country estate sale this morning. I was able to snag this Reed 214 R vise for $45 + tax so just under $50. It looks to be in great shape. The swivel lock is too corroded/rusted/dirty to move by hand but I expect it will with a little leverage. The jaws faces don't look to have been abused but I'm wondering if the top of both jaws has been taken down with a grinder. Are they the way they came from Reed originally?

I really liked that 104-1/2 R I picked up a month ago but since the jaw support was broken on it I decided to sell it. Really excited to find another nice Reed. Look forward to cleaning it up!

Mike

Mike That is for sure a great score.

While the top of the static jaw does look like was shaved off just a little bit, at least to me the static jaws seems untouched. I believe this is a filers vise. Normally the filers vises have jaws whose height is higher than machinist vises and hence the back of the each jaw drops/tappers off (has a sharper slope) drastically as compare to machinists vises . Perhaps one of the vise expects here can shed more light on this.

 

[BKF]

BKF First of all great find. Now are you sure the model is 376 and not 386? If it is 386 then it should weigh around 174 #.

As for the swivel jaws have you tried the usual methods kroil, soaking in ATF, electrolysis, etc? Personally my last resort for a vise would be to use heat/cold as I am always worried about vise parts cooling off too fast and cracking, some have suggested after application of heat to bury the parts in sand to moderate the cooling rate.

PS
it will be great if you could post some photos (use the paper clip icon in the advanced posting option to upload your photos)

You are correct! It is a 386. I haven't done anything more than penetrating oil. I'm getting a couple of inches back and forth. I hadn't even thought of ATF. I'll give that a shot.

I'm waffling back and forth. It almost seems too large to be practical, but it sure is spectacular. Today, I'm thinking that I'll find a spot for it in my shop. I paid $120, so feel pretty good about the price I got it for. (Hopefully the attachments came through.)

 

[Gerard]

The jaws faces don't look to have been abused but I'm wondering if the top of both jaws has been taken down with a grinder. Are they the way they came from Reed originally?

That's what's known as a filer's vise or toolmaker's vise. The jaws are sloped more than usual so you can file stuff at steep angles without the jaws getting in the way. Absolutely factory and rarer than the standard models. Many of the vise manufacturers offered them in the old days, but I don't know of any that are still in production. You definitely **** for getting that for <$50.

Edit: Here's a link to a post with a catalog page showing the Reed machinists' and filers' vises.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1362298&postcount=131

 

[gman007]

You are correct! It is a 386. I haven't done anything more than penetrating oil. I'm getting a couple of inches back and forth. I hadn't even thought of ATF. I'll give that a shot.

I'm waffling back and forth. It almost seems too large to be practical, but it sure is spectacular. Today, I'm thinking that I'll find a spot for it in my shop. I paid $120, so feel pretty good about the price I got it for. (Hopefully the attachments came through.)

I do not want to unduly alarm you and it is hard to tell from the photo, but is there any kind of repair or damage to the dynamic jaw where slide bar meets the jaw (it looks a bit rough in that area but then again it could be due to all the coats of paint)? If not, the vise looks in good shape minus the minor issue of missing swivel jaw pin.

Assuming that there are no repairs and issues with this vise, at $120 for 170 # vise in my books, this is a great buy and you did very well .

While for a home garage this size vise might or might not be too big (depending on the need), if you are going to use it for professional/commercial purposes, it should prove to be a good asset for your shop. Otherwise you should also be able to flip this vise for a nice profit (again baring fundamental issues).

 

[454ragtop]

West coast guys, Reed swivel jaw, swivel base 403-1/2 $100 or BO https://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Re...916802?hash=item1cab2cafc2:g:OCsAAOSwzYpa-Fld

 

[txlonghorn1989]

gm007 & Gerard,
Thanks for the info. Any idea how old that catalog is Gerard? I also noticed that in the catalog pics the end of the vise that holds the handle (sorry I don't know the name of this part of the vise) is flatter than those in the pics. I assume mine isn't as old as those. Anyone know?

Mike

 

[Gerard]

gm007 & Gerard,
Thanks for the info. Any idea how old that catalog is Gerard? I also noticed that in the catalog pics the end of the vise that holds the handle (sorry I don't know the name of this part of the vise) is flatter than those in the pics. I assume mine isn't as old as those. Anyone know?

Mike

That catalog page was from 1931. I do believe your "R" version is a later model, but I don't know when they switched to the R models or the stubby spindle nose. Hopefully a Reed expert will chime in on that.

 

[gman007]

gm007 & Gerard,
Thanks for the info. Any idea how old that catalog is Gerard? I also noticed that in the catalog pics the end of the vise that holds the handle (sorry I don't know the name of this part of the vise) is flatter than those in the pics. I assume mine isn't as old as those. Anyone know?

Mike

Mike
If memory serves me right (based on what I have have learned from Outlaw) Reed started producing R series in 1942 and continued through 50s and may be early 60s. The R series have the distinct flat nose (instead of meatball) and oil hole and the split collar (for retaining the main screw) and replaceable jaw inserts .

Supposedly there was a transition period where the vises from that period might not have all these R series features as they were assembled from existing parts as we all as new parts.

 

[brokeboater]

Picked up this Reed 1c from an estate sale this morning.

 

[wee]

I picked up this old Craftsman vise at a yardsale for $15.

Brian

 

[454ragtop]

I picked up this old Craftsman vise at a yardsale for $15.

Brian

Hmm, carbureted, there almost all FI now...….

 

[gman007]

I picked up this old Craftsman vise at a yardsale for $15.


Brian

Brian Welcome to the vise thread. That is nice starter vise. Incideny many members including myself had their vise addiction started by a craftsman/columbian vises and then graduated to higher end machinist vises.