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New garage suggestions

ericmagaha

Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Maryland
In the process of having a detached pole barn built. Had to go through a variance process/hearing with my county because of setbacks, but that was approved last week so the company I've contracted with will be pulling the permit in the next week or so.

The size of the building will be 26' (width) x 28' (depth) x 14' (wall height). It will house my 2012 Jeep JKU and my tow rig i.e. 2006 Dodge Ram Cummins.

One of the use cases for the garage will be to wrench on my 2012 Jeep JKU. I'm going to install a 2 post auto lift in one of the bays.

I can't go any larger in size i.e. footprint, since I'm space limited and the approved variance from the county is for the size I specified i.e. 26' x 28' x 14'.

There will be two (2) 10'x10' doors on one gable end, and one (1) personnel door on the other gable end of the building.

Up until the company pulls the permit, I can make any structural modifications.

Any suggestions on things you would have gone with but you didn't i.e. windows, gutters, insulation etc.?

Here is an image from the company that is close in size (5% larger footprint) and a single door on the gable end. Mine will have two (2) doors and will be 2' taller. But otherwise very similar i.e. very plain, which is what I like.

DPBS-0342-A2.jpg


Thanks.
 
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EVOLVO

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Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
349
Location
Port Hadlock, Wa
Plain Jane is fine if that's what you like but I'd put in some windows if'n it was me. And of course, MAKE IT BIGGER!!!

I grew up in Maryland, but it wasn't until years later I figured out what Delmarva meant!
 

polexican23

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Jun 11, 2013
Messages
2,168
Location
burbs-Illinois
i am still torn about windows. I wish i had them for air and sunlight, but at the same time...I dont like people knowing i am out there.
 

polexican23

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Jun 11, 2013
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burbs-Illinois
exterior outlet.
ceiling installed by contractor. The walls can be done by anyone, ceiling is a real *****.
Water if possible.
Trench for gas
Drain if allowed, if not drain anyways, just hide it.
instead of all 28feet as 14 foot height. do 10 feet of attic trusses with a lower ceiling for storage. 18 feet still gives you room for lift.

i am going to stop before I get too pissed at myself for not doing these things. (mine is 24wx30deep, 10foot walls. )
 

Stuart in MN

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Joined
Sep 8, 2005
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23,180
Location
Minneapolis
One option for windows is to install them high up on the wall. That way people can't see in, but you still get daylight inside.
 

larry_g

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Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,894
Location
oregon
I don't like the two 10' doors. That is 20' out of a 26' end wall. That leaves 6' for 3 vertical members or 2' wide. One of the biggest mistakes I made was having the door to close to the wall, eliminating any storage along the wall. I would suggest you use a 16' door and offset it to one side where you only are tight to one wall but have ~8' on the other side. That is what I did on my first shop and was very happy I did.

lg
no neat sig line
 

olytdi

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Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
2,202
Location
Olympia, Washington
One thing I would definitely do is add a covered carport to one side with a poured pad. That's a whole other work/storage/leisure area under cover but open. I use mine as a covered porch, project area, and keep my trailer out of the weather. It's my most used space. Mine is 13 ft wide and the length of the building. I have a sliding 8 ft door from the shop to this area.

I, too, had limits on size but after the inspection was done, I had the pad poured and roof up in a couple of days.
 
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ericmagaha

Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Maryland
Plain Jane is fine if that's what you like but I'd put in some windows if'n it was me. And of course, MAKE IT BIGGER!!!
26x28 is the largest I can go. Initially I spec'd out 24x24 and bumped up the size twice to get to 26x28. That is what was approved by the county, and I had to shoehorn it in between my septic tank, existing trenches and reserves trenches. My zoning specifies 50' setback from the front property line and I got approved for a 40' variance i.e. the garage is going to be 10' from the property line.

exterior outlet.
ceiling installed by contractor. The walls can be done by anyone, ceiling is a real *****.
Water if possible.
Trench for gas
Drain if allowed, if not drain anyways, just hide it.
instead of all 28feet as 14 foot height. do 10 feet of attic trusses with a lower ceiling for storage. 18 feet still gives you room for lift.

Good ideas.

I don't like the two 10' doors. That is 20' out of a 26' end wall. That leaves 6' for 3 vertical members or 2' wide. One of the biggest mistakes I made was having the door to close to the wall, eliminating any storage along the wall. I would suggest you use a 16' door and offset it to one side where you only are tight to one wall but have ~8' on the other side. That is what I did on my first shop and was very happy I did.

Both bays are going to be used for parking. And I'm planning on using the other gable end for tool rollaways and such.

I initially spec'd an 18x10 single door, but then changed it to two 10x10 doors. It's about $1k more for the double doors, and I'm still not 100% sold on the double doors. I keep going back and forth.

One thing I would definitely do is add a covered carport to one side with a poured pad. That's a whole other work/storage/leisure area under cover but open. I use mine as a covered porch, project area, and keep my trailer out of the weather. It's my most used space. Mine is 13 ft wide and the length of the building. I have a sliding 8 ft door from the shop to this area.

I, too, had limits on size but after the inspection was done, I had the pad poured and roof up in a couple of days.

That's a good idea.
 

dmcintosh

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Joined
Jul 24, 2013
Messages
250
Location
Smyrna, DE
The bubble/foil insulation under the metal is a good option to minimize condensation and dripping inside. I did this on the roof or my building, but in retrospect doing the walls would have helped seal the building from airflow. I did add windows to my building, not wanting the cave feeling. On the exterior wall (facing away from the house) I put small windows up high to allow light and some air flow, but disuade people from looking in or entering. On the house side I added regular windows. I did my own electrical, insulation and interior walls so I could spread those costs out.
 

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jscoggin

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Dec 27, 2017
Messages
74
Location
Midlothian,TX
I initially spec'd an 18x10 single door, but then changed it to two 10x10 doors. It's about $1k more for the double doors, and I'm still not 100% sold on the double doors. I keep going back and forth.

I've had double doors and cursed them endlessly. I would absolutely go with a single and would pay more to do so, nevermind the fact that you'd be saving $1,000. I'm almost ready to build mine and it's single all of the way, I just can't decide between 18x10 and 16x10. I'm leaning 18', the wider the door, the more the options.
 
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ericmagaha

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Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Maryland
I've had double doors and cursed them endlessly. I would absolutely go with a single and would pay more to do so, nevermind the fact that you'd be saving $1,000. I'm almost ready to build mine and it's single all of the way, I just can't decide between 18x10 and 16x10. I'm leaning 18', the wider the door, the more the options.

What were the drawbacks of the double doors?

As stated, I originally spec'd it at 18x10, just changed it to two 10x10, and now I'm thinking about changing it to 18x12. I really can't decide.
 

jscoggin

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Joined
Dec 27, 2017
Messages
74
Location
Midlothian,TX
What were the drawbacks of the double doors?

As stated, I originally spec'd it at 18x10, just changed it to two 10x10, and now I'm thinking about changing it to 18x12. I really can't decide.

Besides the maintenance of two sets of doors, springs, motors etc, it seemed like I was always needing them to be just a bit wider and a large single door opens up the possibility for damn near anything to fit through it.

I considered 12' tall as well but I've never needed that much height. Then again, you know the saying, it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. It seems these choices never end.
 
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ericmagaha

Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Maryland
Besides the maintenance of two sets of doors, springs, motors etc, it seemed like I was always needing them to be just a bit wider and a large single door opens up the possibility for damn near anything to fit through it.

I considered 12' tall as well but I've never needed that much height. Then again, you know the saying, it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. It seems these choices never end.

Ok.

I can also go with a 20' wide door, I've already investigated that option. It's just under $500 more to go from an 18x10 to a 20x10. That seems like a really wide door though. It would lessen the side walls (about 3' wide) which was one of the reasons I was thinking two 10x10 (about 2' wide). I'm just thinking about if I want to back my car hauler into one of the bays for some reason. Less side wall would make that easier to do.
 

jscoggin

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Dec 27, 2017
Messages
74
Location
Midlothian,TX
Ok.

I can also go with a 20' wide door, I've already investigated that option. It's just under $500 more to go from an 18x10 to a 20x10. That seems like a really wide door though. It would lessen the side walls (about 3' wide) which was one of the reasons I was thinking two 10x10 (about 2' wide). I'm just thinking about if I want to back my car hauler into one of the bays for some reason. Less side wall would make that easier to do.

I wouldn't have less than 2' on each side if you can help it, 3' would be even better. I have to have only 18" on mine and I'm going to hate it. If you go less than 2' you almost completely eliminate that wall for any type of storage. It also makes it a chore to get in and out of a car on the wall side. 20' is a huge door, 18' should be wide enough for almost anything.

My hand is a little forced on mine due to the way my setback lines up with my existing gate and driveway but I'm still trying to figure out a way around it.
 

Blazinzuk

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Mar 13, 2016
Messages
637
Location
Afton Wy
I did not put any windows in my shop.

Prying eyes, keeping the sun out, less noise output. Lots of reasons for not having windows
 

CraigStu

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Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,057
Location
Blacksburg, Va
I have windows in the door placed one panel down from the top. When the dog barks or I hear a vehicle I like to be able to look out to see who it is. And one 2x3 window on the other end. Wish i had gone just a couple inches larger each way as my AC unit takes up most of it.
 

vavet

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Joined
Mar 6, 2012
Messages
5,330
Location
Ashland, VA
Mine is stick built. 24W x 32D.
I did 3 transom windows along each side - 4 foot by 2 foot, I think. I like those. High enough to prevent anyone from seeing in.
I had the asphalt driveway extended around the side. It makes a great place for trailer parking, but hides it.
Mine is not used for daily parking. I have a single 18' wide door. It's fine for my needs. I wish I'd done the same (or two 9' or 10' doors) on the attached garage that we use for daily parking. A 16' wide door is a tight fit for my wife's Sonata (~72" wide) and my Mazda5 (~69" wide). that Ram is probably 79" wide and the Jeep is probably 75".
I didn't know 20' wide doors were available. I wonder about sagging of a door that wide over time. I think you're going to have a hard time putting in a 2 post lift and parking a Ram truck next to it...but draw it out and see how it looks.

Think about having them include a cat5 or cat6 cable in the trench for power if you think you might ever want that for anything - computer, security cams, etc.
 
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ericmagaha

Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Maryland
Mine is stick built. 24W x 32D.
I did 3 transom windows along each side - 4 foot by 2 foot, I think. I like those. High enough to prevent anyone from seeing in.
I had the asphalt driveway extended around the side. It makes a great place for trailer parking, but hides it.
Mine is not used for daily parking. I have a single 18' wide door. It's fine for my needs. I wish I'd done the same (or two 9' or 10' doors) on the attached garage that we use for daily parking. A 16' wide door is a tight fit for my wife's Sonata (~72" wide) and my Mazda5 (~69" wide). that Ram is probably 79" wide and the Jeep is probably 75".
I didn't know 20' wide doors were available. I wonder about sagging of a door that wide over time. I think you're going to have a hard time putting in a 2 post lift and parking a Ram truck next to it...but draw it out and see how it looks.

Think about having them include a cat5 or cat6 cable in the trench for power if you think you might ever want that for anything - computer, security cams, etc.
cat5, good idea.

Each bay will be 12'5" usable width. My truck is 8' wide and the Jeep is 7' wide. The minimum width for a 2 post list if 12'. I don't envision any width issues.

Yes they have 20' wide doors. Right now I'm leaning towards going back to a single door but with size 20'x12'. That would eliminate the hi-lift track and save a little bit of money. And it would be pretty similar to having two 10' wide doors, but eliminate the center wall section. I think it gives me the greatest flexibility and also helps alleviate the 'what if' questions that I haven't even thought of.
 
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