Garage Door Questions

[L5wolvesf]

My current garage door is a rolling, to the side, door made of many 2x4s and OSB and is a heavy MF and hard to move. I currently have a possibility of getting a used roll up garage door for my garage for very little. It is slightly damaged but easily repaired and a significant upgrade from my current door. It is a Raynor Decade II if that means anything.

My first question is about the size. The opening in the block wall is 9 ft across by 7 ft tall. The available door is 9 ft across by 8 ft tall.

The available space above the opening is 1 ft – 2 courses of block in the first pic, the ceiling beams go across at that point. I don’t know enough about this kind of door to know if it can make the 90 degree turn in that 1 ft of space.

The other question is about the ceiling beams and whether they can hold weight of the door. The 2nd pic shows how the trusses are made – all with 2x4s.

Thank you for your input.

 

[gnpenning]

The radius of the track will determine how much headroom you will need. For the headroom you have a 10" radius track and a 7' door.

The most important concern is you have a total of 8' and plan to put a 8' door in with no room for the door to start going back in to the room.



Unless you plan on doing some fab work, even then it's not worth the work.

I'm sure someone has cut one up and thinks it was cost effective and will tell you it works great. They most likely used the same cables and spring, even though they aren't correct, for them it's close enough.....

Find a 7' door with a 10" radius track.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

The trusses should have no problem with the door weight assuming you are not hoarding heavy materials or "stuff" up there. You may also look into low headroom track. With front torsion springs you would only need 9 and a half inches of headroom to make it work. Otherwise, I agree with above, trying to butcher and modify the cheap door might work eventually but it will never be right. Do it once, do it right.

 

[L5wolvesf]

The radius of the track will determine how much headroom you will need. For the headroom you have a 10" radius track and a 7' door.

The most important concern is you have a total of 8' and plan to put a 8' door in with no room for the door to start going back in to the room.

Unless you plan on doing some fab work, even then it's not worth the work.

I'm sure someone has cut one up and thinks it was cost effective and will tell you it works great. They most likely used the same cables and spring, even though they aren't correct, for them it's close enough.....

Find a 7' door with a 10" radius track.

Thank you for the radius info that is what I was missing.
I don't plan on modifying anything that doesn't belong in the space I have.
For some reason a 7ft door has been hard to come across. 6ft and 8ft are abundant.

The trusses should have no problem with the door weight assuming you are not hoarding heavy materials or "stuff" up there. You may also look into low headroom track. With front torsion springs you would only need 9 and a half inches of headroom to make it work. Otherwise, I agree with above, trying to butcher and modify the cheap door might work eventually but it will never be right. Do it once, do it right.

I do have some stuff up there but its mostly just bulky not heavy. Thank you for the low headroom track term - didn't know such a thing existed.