Single 2x12 header for 11’ door in gable end?

[daveindenver]

I noticed that the header over my 11’ garage door on a non load bearing gable end does not consist of 2 2x12s. I am not sure exactly what is there since I can see only the 1 2x12 from the inside but I can see over it enough on one end between it and the top plate to be able to tell that there are definitely not 2 full members. I can see nails as if there were 2 but they hit nothing.

Does this seem okay? I wouldn’t do it that way but should I be concerned?

Thanks!

 

[sberry]

A header is needed if there are other bearing members on it, in the eve side there are trusses. It may not have needed anymore in the end,

 

[daveindenver]

A header is needed if there are other bearing members on it, in the eve side there are trusses. It may not have needed anymore in the end,

Thanks for your reply. I just assumed it would be a doubled up 2 x whatever anyway instead of a single one. Seems like the wall would be more stable that way even if it was not needed to support something above it - especially when it is an 8' door on a 9' wall.

 

[6768rogues]

Like many things, it all depends. If the "end truss" over the door is a typical "W" truss, with webs that make triangles, generally there is only load bearing near its end points where it rests on the sidewalls. If the end truss is truly an end truss, where it has a upper chords (rafters), a lower chord (ceiling joist) and vertical members providing nailing surfaces every 16 or 24 inches, the entire bottom chord is sustaining the roof load and it needs to be supported by the wall or headers over openings in the wall.
Then it depends on what your geographic area requires for a roof live load. In snow country, roofs get heavy. In the south, no snow means less load. I suspect that in Denver you have snow loading but I am not familiar with the numbers, since I am in western NY.
Another factor is the species and grade of wood of your header. Every different species and grade has its own strength characteristics and those are spelled out in tables in building codes. All wood is not created equal.
No one size fits all answer.

 

[Orionrising]

if the gable is a truss it would likely be fine for roof loads, wind loads are what the issue could be.

 

[Kevin54]

In a gable end, the truss would take the support. In reality, a single 2x12 would work, BUT....if you have 2x4 walls, a second 2x12 would help against some twisting in wind conditions. Your outer sheeting will immensely help. If it were me, and this is my own personal opinion.....I would cut off the nails that are sticking through, then double up your header. And bear in mind that (2) 2x12's will still need a piece of 1/2" OSB to make up the difference to match your 2x4 stud framing. If you have 2x6 walls, then you need to triple your header.

 

[gnpenning]

Wall and roof load information has been covered. What hasn't been, is if your garage door opener and spring are attached to the single header, every time you open or close the door it will have some flex going on. You will start with small movement that will increase over time.

Double it up.

 

[sberry]

Was it inspected by zoning etc? By a real builder?

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Also consider how your door tracks will attach to the wall. You need a single plane for all your hardware to attach to. Floor to at least 12" above opening height and all the way across the opening and a vertical in the center to attach the spring perch to. As mentioned, the horizontals and the verical in the center will have to counter the torque of the springs as they balance the door. It needs to be solid. Is the same contractor doing the door? Or is that a different bid. One trade may not know what the other needs and there is some assuming going on!

 

[tcianci]

Like many things, it all depends. If the "end truss" over the door is a typical "W" truss, with webs that make triangles, generally there is only load bearing near its end points where it rests on the sidewalls. If the end truss is truly an end truss, where it has a upper chords (rafters), a lower chord (ceiling joist) and vertical members providing nailing surfaces every 16 or 24 inches, the entire bottom chord is sustaining the roof load and it needs to be supported by the wall or headers over openings in the wall.
Then it depends on what your geographic area requires for a roof live load. In snow country, roofs get heavy. In the south, no snow means less load. I suspect that in Denver you have snow loading but I am not familiar with the numbers, since I am in western NY.
Another factor is the species and grade of wood of your header. Every different species and grade has its own strength characteristics and those are spelled out in tables in building codes. All wood is not created equal.
No one size fits all answer.

Hello, Hello??? This simply isn't true /\ /\ Whether its a it's a field truss, a gable truss or rafters with a ceiling joist, the load path is still to the exterior walls. Think about it.

 

[daveindenver]

Also consider how your door tracks will attach to the wall. You need a single plane for all your hardware to attach to. Floor to at least 12" above opening height and all the way across the opening and a vertical in the center to attach the spring perch to. As mentioned, the horizontals and the verical in the center will have to counter the torque of the springs as they balance the door. It needs to be solid. Is the same contractor doing the door? Or is that a different bid. One trade may not know what the other needs and there is some assuming going on!

Thanks for all the feedback! The door is already installed - garage is already finished. Same local garage builder. The builder seems willing to fix problems however I am not sure he will agree that this is a problem. It is 2X4 construction, stick framed roof - ridge board. It's a 9 foot wall so it is just the framing with the header (no studs above the door). I am having an unrelated issue with water coming in through the horizontal seams in the smart-side siding (no flashing was used, just a caulked trim board over what I believe are ragged **** joints). I argued that method was not proper but I think I see it often so I relented and trusted his 20+ years of experience - perhaps I shouldn't have.

So, I was looking around after some rain and that is when I noticed the header issue. If I wasn't looking for water issues, I would never have noticed it. I have included a couple of pictures. In the picture with the red highlight, that is where it is clear that there is only the visible 2x12 with nothing behind it. I can just see over the top and at the right edge enough to know there is nothing there - also was able to stick a 14 gauge wire in and confirm it. I am also having issues with flex in the gable walls and I suspect this is contributing to it somewhat as some of you mentioned. The only thing bearing on the gable wall besides the door opener as far as I know is the center thing running perpendicular to the rafter ties in the center - "strong back" I have seen it called but not sure if that is the proper term.

 

[daveindenver]

Yes, all permitted and passed all inspections. It was built by a fairly high volume (I think) local builder who specializes in garages. I do suspect however that the builder knows a few people at the county office very well.

 

[CraigStu]

Your picture shows a non load bearing truss. I would not be happy w/ that although it will probably work out.

 

[OneOfEm]

I have almost the exact same thing in my building - an 11' garage door in a gable end with a full truss above it.

The engineer spec'ed a 12"x1/2" steel flitch plate sandwiched between 2x12's.

The guy at the inspection office said that it's serious overkill, but "if that's what the engineer drew, that's what we'll need to see."

I don't know enough about the math involved to know what's correct, but my gut says yours may be too little (and mine, too much).

 

[Radix2]

Thanks for all the feedback! The door is already installed - garage is already finished. Same local garage builder. The builder seems willing to fix problems however I am not sure he will agree that this is a problem. It is 2X4 construction, stick framed roof - ridge board. It's a 9 foot wall so it is just the framing with the header (no studs above the door). I am having an unrelated issue with water coming in through the horizontal seams in the smart-side siding (no flashing was used, just a caulked trim board over what I believe are ragged **** joints). I argued that method was not proper but I think I see it often so I relented and trusted his 20+ years of experience - perhaps I shouldn't have.

So, I was looking around after some rain and that is when I noticed the header issue. If I wasn't looking for water issues, I would never have noticed it. I have included a couple of pictures. In the picture with the red highlight, that is where it is clear that there is only the visible 2x12 with nothing behind it. I can just see over the top and at the right edge enough to know there is nothing there - also was able to stick a 14 gauge wire in and confirm it. I am also having issues with flex in the gable walls and I suspect this is contributing to it somewhat as some of you mentioned. The only thing bearing on the gable wall besides the door opener as far as I know is the center thing running perpendicular to the rafter ties in the center - "strong back" I have seen it called but not sure if that is the proper term.

Maybe some pictures would of the outside situation?

When it comes to flashings, always ignore builders BS about experience. Just about any bad idea can last a few years with a squirt of caulk.

The problem is that by the time you find that water has been seeping for ten years, and your walls are filled with rot, the builder is long gone with his "sterling reputation" and self delusions of "experience"....

Buildings die from water. Details matter. "I always do it this way" means nothing if it is always wrong.