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Building tube fenders for a jeep

LXCam

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What was I thinking. :headscrat


Well scope creep got the best of this project that's for darn sure. What started out as a AC install and lift kit lead to a front bumper and now these fenders.

Anybody here done these in house or am I the only ******* :spit:

But right or wrong, good or bad I figured I'd share since it's been a while since I've shown anything.

Might as well show the bumper first since it's ready for powder coat. But if anyone wants to see some of the assembly just ask. As for the fenders these are you're typical tube perimeter (3/4" 16ga) and I've only got the frames done as of today. Tomorrow I'll start the sheet metal.

The rear one is for the other side. It was a lot easier to set it up like this then bend this side up and match it on the bench.

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Thanks for looking


Edit Jan 2019. If 17 pages of looking thru the garbage doesn't interest you in the least, I get it ;)

But the finished pictures are here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7680923&postcount=326
 
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LXCam

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LXCam

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Wow! I’m in love with that bumper. Fabulous job!


Thanks MV

Looks like I won't be making too much more headway today. The wife has other plans for me. Something about picking out new carpet which I'll get right on after finding that red/gray craftsman box I've been wanting. :bounce:

Ok all joking aside we got to go pick up some tile for the forth coming bathroom remodel.....yuck, where's the fun in that there's nothing to weld and make pretty sparks.

At least I got these matched darn near perfectly and certainly enough you'd never see or measure it. And for anyone who has ever tried to finish cut some odd ball angle on tubing, the gauge method works pretty decent.

And thank goodness for magnets they sure save a lot of time and guess work or additional jigs.

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pamike

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Wow, whats the price tag on that job? 2k? I have done enough fab work to know I don't want to do that work, and whoever does is going to charge a lot, or at least should...
 
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LXCam

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Wow, whats the price tag on that job? 2k? I have done enough fab work to know I don't want to do that work, and whoever does is going to charge a lot, or at least should...

this will blow your mind. It's a freebie job just cause I'm such a nice guy and I like doing this ****. :spit:







BUT, the jeep owner is a nice guy as well and gave me this awesome climbing toy for my grandbubby to play on........:pimpflash

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fnieto

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Looking great Cam, If it was easy, everyone would be custom fabbers.
Little fella looks good on that Hog.

Paco
 
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LXCam

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Looking great Cam, If it was easy, everyone would be custom fabbers.
Little fella looks good on that Hog.

Paco

Thanks Paco and whatta ya talking about. If I can do it, anyone can. :confused:

Every time my little buddy is over we have to go out to Campa's shop and climb on the bikes. For him this beats the swing set and slide by a long shot.
 

ddawg16

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Nice work LX.....

I'm going to be doing tube fenders for my CJ.....but I'm going to cheat and buy them. I just don't have the time or tools to do the fab....specifically the tube bending.

I'm leaning towards the Spider fenders....they have a pretty nice setup that also includes rock rails and rear flares/body armor....

One note....are you sure you want to bring that tube in the front down like that? Most guys with tube fenders leave it flat....kinda like the ol' MJ flat fender....
 

kbs2244

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He GAVE you that swig replacement??!!??
I would say you still owe him.
In spite of the fine work.
 

yaidunno

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Always a challenge to get both sides the same on a project like this! Looks like its in the right hands.
 

bad_idea

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Nice work. I plan to build some tube fenders for my Jeep. Maybe this winter. Got too many projects lined up now.
 

4 FN 27

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Well scope creep got the best of this project that's for darn sure. What started out as a AC install and lift kit lead to a front bumper and now these fenders.

I always say "I can do anything you can afford".

Anybody here done these in house or am I the only ******* :spit:

If you are too smart to try you will never succeed. If you are dumb enough to try it you have the opportunity for success.

Nice work Cam!!!
 
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LXCam

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Nice work LX.....

I'm going to be doing tube fenders for my CJ.....but I'm going to cheat and buy them. I just don't have the time or tools to do the fab....specifically the tube bending.

I'm leaning towards the Spider fenders....they have a pretty nice setup that also includes rock rails and rear flares/body armor....

One note....are you sure you want to bring that tube in the front down like that? Most guys with tube fenders leave it flat....kinda like the ol' MJ flat fender....

Thanks dawg, especially after seeing your jeep project yesterday that I've never seen before. I greatly appreciate the comments. We talked about going that route and just buying a set but he wanted something no one else had. That choice drove the final design as did my tooling limitations. What really sucked was the quality of the dies in that kit I bought. I'll explain more later when I fire up the puter but I had to abandon the stock 3/4" die and re-machine the 5/8" die for 3/4" to get a decent product.

He GAVE you that swig replacement??!!??
I would say you still owe him.
In spite of the fine work.

Ya wellll that's disputable. This was his midlife crisis bike and it got parked 8yrs ago. She's gonna need more work then we both thought after I opened up the tank. I had high hopes of not getting into paint right away and just get it back in good running shape then doing weekend projects updating the look. But that idea doesn't seem possible now. Regardless we made a deal and I'll stand by my word.

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That is ambitious !

Glad to see you have a cool vehicle in your shop/

Lol thanks jeeper, that it is. But come on man, normally the projects are all dodge hemi rides so that's gotta count somehow right?? :beer:

Always a challenge to get both sides the same on a project like this! Looks like its in the right hands.

Boy ain't that the truth. Get something to match up without building bucks is very challenging. Add to that that sheet metal ain't my forte. That goodness this is all simple curves and tubing is something I have a lifetime of experience with (ex sparky) but it's still a learning curve. And your comments are inspirational my young friend as your talents are phenomenal.

Nice work. I plan to build some tube fenders for my Jeep. Maybe this winter. Got too many projects lined up now.

Dang good thing this is someone else's project as if it were mine, it'd just be another project in the back of my head. But if you change your mind keep tabs since I will be showing what I had to do to take some **** *** inexpensive tools and modify them to get a decent finished product. Probably not the best way, but well within the limitations of a normal home shop....I think :headscrat

I always say "I can do anything you can afford".



If you are too smart to try you will never succeed. If you are dumb enough to try it you have the opportunity for success.

Nice work Cam!!!


Hahahaha, yup I've said for years if you keep that checkbook open you can have anything ya want. That last part cracked me up bud, absolutely dead on and an analogy I'm gonna have to borrow from you, too funny.

35+yrs ago as a young sparky the boss asked me if I had assembled switchgear before and I answered honestly but was was chomping at the bit to do it and raised my hand. He promptly passed me right the f up. I've never been fully honest since and if I had the ability to do anything, I'd jump in with both feet. I think I can say I've never failed but don't think for one second there's hasn't been times that only tenacity and deep pockets got me thru.....I'm not the brightest guy sometimes. :wtf:



Thanks for following along guys :beer:
 
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Robert Haas

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I built some rock rails for a buddies long wheelbase Rubicon a few years back. He bought the aftermarket tube railed fenders. They looked like they were strong enough to rub on a rock wall but the first time that happened he tore the front one clean off and it was twisted like a pretzel. So he had me make quick release mounts for the replacements and he now pulls them off when he wants to lean on a wall or what not. I even built a stow mount that lets him put all four fenders on a rack above his twin Jerry cans behind the rear window. I don't have a single picture of it and the jeep has since been sold so I am unable to help you with the design.

Just a thought to protect your hard work if that jeep gets used like it appears to be headed.
 
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LXCam

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All good points Robert and if this was a ******** explorer I'd do somethings totally different. This toy gets pulled behind his RV for lite duty exploring mostly out in the desert. He is also someone who has made a few bucks in his life and used to race class 8 rigs for several years. Now at the ripe ole age of 70 he just wants something that gets his thru the minor rough stuff and in the unlikely even he sticks her, can get it out. The bumper facade is all 1/8" plate and stout enough to handle probably up to a 3-4" tree without twisting. But I intentionally have not braced the wings internally so the if he was to hit something good, there was sufficient give to not transfer all that force into the frame and tweek the more difficult stuff to fix. These fenders might get a couple stiffeners depending on how they handle the "sit test" but I want them to absorb a hit if it happens so the body doesn't take the brunt of the impact. I can always fix or make another one.

thanks again for following along and commenting guys. I always listen to the voice of experience and take it all under consideration.

Cam
 
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4 FN 27

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That last part cracked me up bud, absolutely dead on and an analogy I'm gonna have to borrow from you, too funny.

35+yrs ago as a young sparky the boss asked me if I had assembled switchgear before and I answered honestly but was was chomping at the bit to do it and raised my hand. He promptly passed me right the f up. I've never been fully honest since and if I had the ability to do anything, I'd jump in with both feet. I think I can say I've never failed but don't think for one second there's hasn't been times that only tenacity and deep pockets got me thru.....I'm not the brightest guy sometimes. :wtf:

"I have not failed 1,000 times. I have successfully discovered 1,000 ways to NOT make a light bulb."

Thomas Edison
 

zmotorsports

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**** Cam, I just noticed this thread. I'm sorry I didn't see it earlier.

Great work as usual my friend. Those are turning out freaking awesome!:bowdown:

Can't wait to see them progress.

Couple questions for ya. How are you going to attach the sheet metal to the tubing? I've seen some use rivets or button head bolts with the sheet metal slightly overlapping the top radius of the tube, I have seen them butted up to the apex of the tube and welded and I have seen them right to the apex of the tube diameter and welded from the underside. Just curious how you were planning on affixing them?

Next question, are you going to build a perimeter panel that the tubes and sheet metal will weld to so they can be bolted onto the body? I only ask because in one of the pictures it appears that the tube is welded directly to the sheet metal body of the Jeep.

Thanks.
 
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LXCam

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Thanks for joining along Mike! I want everyone to know I've been bouncing off all these ideas off the master and his input has been priceless and unbelievably appreciated.


So if I fail......welllll :lol:

I'll start backwards and hopefully I don't miss a question my Friend. I welded 3/8" steel nuts in the tubing for that attachment point. The front was slam dunk to get to but I need to pull the liners out of the rear and confirm nothing is in the way before I continue down that path. I took that down and dirty mock up piece I showed you and welded the panel on the back side with the edge of the sheet metal flush with the outside of the tube. Then I hammered the radius just to confirm that the radius location would shrink and not deform the piece. That was successful but!, I'd like to add a 1/16" more reveal then roll it.

So I gots me an idear that I hope works out ok. I was really concerned about hammer marks on the rolled edge. I got off lucky I think on this mock up but I don't want to chance that on the finished product. I just happen to have some 1/2" thick chrome moly DOM tubing here that the inside radius is just a tick larger the the thickness of the combined tube and sheet metal. So I'm going to Fab up a hammering jig that clamps onto my table that's built like a pair of scissors so I can guide the fender thru with one hand n hammer with the other. Hopefully that makes sense as I'm certain there's a name for something like this, I just don't know what it is. If I had a planishing hammer I'd just machine a set of dies, but I don't. I thought about a custom set of rolllers for my bead roller but think the poor mans manual planishing scissors will be easy and give me better control. Btw, I'm totally open for suggestions.

Here's a couple pics of the experiment. As you'll see I think my biggest finish battle won't be the rolled edge as much as it will be cleaning up the boiled sheet metal points. I "think" I can mitigate that playing around with the settings or just tigging it, I don't know right now. But even if I need to clean all that up, I got the right stuff to do it with but I went with the belt that was on the grinder on this one and wasn't careful.

As 4N aptly quoted. A found another way not to build these. Lol

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LXCam

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Oh heck, I forgot to show you my nuts

:wtf:....hum, that dunt sound right huh.

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Look ma, no hands

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ddawg16

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Ok.....now I see what you are doing.....

I was thinking you were converting your existing fenders into tube fenders.....instead, you are just replacing the fender flare only.

I like what I'm seeing..............
 

zmotorsports

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Those look great Cam. Thanks for taking the time to answer the questions.

One more however (and this is a big concern where I live), do you have any concerns about corrosion (rust) starting under the rolled edge of the sheet metal onto the tubing? One of my biggest concerns when I start thinking about building mine has been how to join the sheet metal to the tubing in a manner that negates any exposed seams to allow moisture to enter and ultimately start to rust.

I like the looks of what you did but I would worry about long term effects to weather exposure. I think ideally it should be welded both from the underside edge as well as the topside to completely seal off the area from allowing moisture in but that is a LOT of welding AND a lot of heat going into the area which you then need to contend with warpage and HAZ marks for final finishing.

I built some filler panels a while back for a guys semi-truck and tried to address for similar reasons and ultimately ended up bending up the tubing, then creating the sheet metal panels and having everything powder coated. Once back from the powder coater, I applied some thin 3M weatherstripping to the back side of the sheet metal panels and pop-riveted the sheet metal to the tubing. This has held up well on the seams and has probably well over 100k miles on it but the corrosion is now starting to appear from chips in the powder coating and a small amount from the rivet holes.

What are your thoughts on how to create a moisture tight barrier to prevent corrosion?

Thanks.
 

zmotorsports

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Hey z, they make powder primers too. It's recommended on parts that will be exposed to the elements.

Correct, but my question is more of about the areas deep in where the paint/powder can't really get to yet the moisture definitely will on something like a daily driver when you have component that is not completely welded around the perimeter to keep moisture out. That's the areas I guess I'm more interested in getting ideas on how to resolve.

Thanks.
 
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LXCam

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Figures you'd catch that ya thinker you.

Yes I have given that a wee bit of thought. That much seem welding is far too much work and I'll never get the finish on the outside to turn out decent unless someone like yourself tigs all 20ft worth of seem.


Riveting has certainly been considered after PC and if so, I'm not certain on what type I'd use that would look cool.

Now I'll be straight up but I still need to try it. I'm thinking about pre-fluxing all the contact area and using acid core solder to seal it. Back when I was making my twin intake systems this is how I cleaned up any imperfections at the welded joints so it all looked like one continuous tube. Obviously silver sold would not be cost effective but the best finish. Acid core should work but require a bit of clean up after the fact. I've soldered many many a copper pipe joint, this would be my first attempt at steel with that product.

I have also thought about a seam sealer on the inside so nothing can build up underneath and rot it out, but I'd leave the outside alone maybe. I'm not sure yet.

Guess what I'm saying is.....I'm still guessing. ;)

However I very much welcome the input as you and Mis Leanna have given me some other options to take into account.

Thanks again.
 
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bad_idea

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How about bedliner on the inside of the flares? That stuff is thick and should pour in and fill the gaps up good. Could apply to top and bottom for a rugged finish. Applied right and it looks good on the bumpers too.
 
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LXCam

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Well heck, I just add to jump the gun and give the solder a shot.....I had to know since I tossed that on the table :headscrat

Looks like that a winner and I didn't even need to pre-flux. It flowed in without issue. I know a video would probably help show how well it worked, but I don't know how to do that. I just build ****.


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If I decide to go this route 100% I'll fill that inside void with more solder and after PC still apply a seem sealer so there's no shelf for **** to build up on.


Btw, I gotta tell ya. Between answering mikes questions. I feed the dogs, laid out another rat trap (#€*£<~*£€>#), hosed off a carpet runnner for the wife, dug out my soldering stuff of which I have not touched in a decade and performed the experiment. Not bad in 42 minutes :lol:
 
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LXCam

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How about bedliner on the inside of the flares? That stuff is thick and should pour in and fill the gaps up good. Could apply to top and bottom for a rugged finish. Applied right and it looks good on the bumpers too.


That's been a thought as well for the finishes. But personally I really prefer powder coat, it just looks so much cleaner add to the fact that bedliner is a mutha to keep clean.
 
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LXCam

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Cool. Silicon Bronze Tig rod and some 80 grit was going to be my idea.

Ya that's an idea too but this **** when properly fluxed flows like butta and cleans off with a rag, no muss, no fuss.


So as the experiment continued I want to know how well it bonds so I cut it between a couple tac point and had to peel it off. Obviously I need to flow more solder thru the joint and work out the last little bit of flux. But knowing that now makes the rest academic.

But hey, if anyone thinks this a piss poor idea, toss it out there.

Btw, that wasn't acid core I used as it didn't need it. That was 95/5 tinning solder.


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LXCam

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Here we go, this is a much better example. Trust me, my metal work ain't that tight to the tubing as I'm certainly not that good.

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Motown

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Check if there are any company's in your area that do E coating. That will get in all the hidden areas, for rust protection.
 
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LXCam

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Seems like it'll do the trick to me? Now just hope you don't run out of solder 4" from the end !:bounce:

If that's the shortest I come up, it'll be a first. Least that what the wife says :wtf:

Check if there are any company's in your area that do E coating. That will get in all the hidden areas, for rust protection.

That's an idea too. But I think unless some facts come into play to make me rethink this am in good shape. I'll swing by air gas and get the correct materials and get this done. I've got four different types of flux here, 2 of which are sooo old you can't read the labels, one is for silver solder and the stuff I use for copper was so old it looked like tommy Lee Jones on a bad day. It might be time to clean up that drawer with some fresh stuff.
 
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