How to Balloon Frame Gable Walls with Scissor Trusses

[bad_idea]

So. I am building a 30x40x10 garage with 6:12 scissor trusses. Stick built. 2x6 walls. I am in a 110 mph wind zone. I plan to balloon frame the gable walls up to a scissor truss. I don't understand how to attach the gable walls to the front and back walls. With standard framing you use a double top plate to tie the top of the walls together. I assume with balloon framing you can't use a double top plate on the gable walls. How do you lap boards on an angled wall to a level wall? I have been searching the inter webs for how to frame the gable walls. Can't find a detail on how to frame this. I know it's in the code book, but I can't figure out how to navigate the code book.

Which walls do I make long? The front and back walls or the gable walls? Meaning 30' gable walls with 39' 1" front/back walls or 29' 1" gable walls with 40' front/back walls? How do you attach the front/back walls to the gable walls? Do you install a double top plate on the gable walls that doesn't lap over the front/back walls?

Someone know of an instructional video or written how to w/ pics? Thanks all. This has me pulling my hair out. This is the last detail to sort and I can start framing. Foundation is poured. Would love to start framing this weekend.

 

[Kaizen]

Use normal trusses for the gable walls. It will have the same roof line. So frame normal with double top plate and the gable trusses sit flat on them. End trusses also are framed different so you can attach sheathing


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[bad_idea]

I'm in a 110 MPH Wind Zone. My initial plan was to do just that. Unfortunately that creates a hinge point at the joint between the top plate and the gable end truss. Not a huge deal in a low wind area, but in my area it is not allowed. I must either balloon frame the wall to the roof line or to the ceiling. Balloon framing to the roof line is a no go because you are limited to 18' on a 2x6 stud and my gable walls will be 18' 4" to the peak. I could drop the building height 6" to drop under the 18' mark, but who wants to do that?!

 

[RWorth]

IF you build the gable wall first, put a doubler the height of the short wall studs beside the outside 2x6 on the gable. Notch your top plates around the outside 2x6, they can be nailed threw the outside 2x6, down to the doubler, and place the first balloon stud next to the top plates and nail there as well.

 

[spudley]

IF you build the gable wall first, put a doubler the height of the short wall studs beside the outside 2x6 on the gable. Notch your top plates around the outside 2x6, they can be nailed threw the outside 2x6, down to the doubler, and place the first balloon stud next to the top plates and nail there as well.

Yep. Maybe even a strap?

 

[firebirdparts]

Use normal trusses for the gable walls. It will have the same roof line. So frame normal with double top plate and the gable trusses sit flat on them. End trusses also are framed different so you can attach sheathing


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No. We've had several recent threads on why people don't do this. It creates a wall that is hinged in the middle and impossible to brace back to anything else in the building unless you do it way down below the ceiling.

 

[Kaizen]

No. We've had several recent threads on why people don't do this. It creates a wall that is hinged in the middle and impossible to brace back to anything else in the building unless you do it way down below the ceiling.

Gotcha because of the scissor trusses.


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[bad_idea]

IF you build the gable wall first, put a doubler the height of the short wall studs beside the outside 2x6 on the gable. Notch your top plates around the outside 2x6, they can be nailed threw the outside 2x6, down to the doubler, and place the first balloon stud next to the top plates and nail there as well.

I’m not a very smart man. Having trouble visualizing what you are saying. Do you mind making a quick sketch of what you mean? Thanks.

 

[LXCam]

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...on-framing-lumber/1021813/p-1444422749853.htm

If you seriously can't get your hands on some 20ftrs. Go to a 2x8.

 

[Homerr]

1. Check the plans, or...

2. Check with your engineer, or...

3. Check with the truss designer, or...

4. Check with your local jurisdiction as they may have standard details, or...

5. Hire an engineer to advise you.

I think the best way to do this would be to balloon frame the wall up to the underside of the roof sheathing less 3.5" (or 5.5") for outlookers. With higher wind loading stud side, species, engineered LSL studs, spacing may be an issue so, again, consult 1-5 above.

Set the first scissor truss back 24" and span the 2x4 (or 2x6) outlookers from that truss across the top plates of your balloon wall out to 24" max overhang dimension. Add in a 2x nailer for the ceiling at the (presumably) 3/12 ceiling plane on the inside of your balloon wall, this is just projected from the bottom of the scissor trusses to the rake wall. Add in full width blocking (i.e. 2x6, the same width as your rake wall) behind this ceiling nailer.

Sources 1-5 above may also have additional bracing details for diagonals from the rake wall down the the top of the bottom chords of the trusses.

Regarding rake walls and framing, Larry Haun's videos may be helpful if you've never seen them.

 

[Stoshu]

Most lumber yards should have 20' 2x6 available. If you can't find any put a window in the center of the wall. Other option would be to frame it with LSL studs.

 

[bad_idea]

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...on-framing-lumber/1021813/p-1444422749853.htm

If you seriously can't get your hands on some 20ftrs. Go to a 2x8.

I’m not having difficulty sourcing longer 2x6s. Code limits 2x6 studs to 18’.

 

[LXCam]

I’m not having difficulty sourcing longer 2x6s. Code limits 2x6 studs to 18’.

That I didn't know. What's code for a 2x8?

 

[bad_idea]

2x8s aren’t mentioned. I don’t care to frame all the way to the roof though. Would rather frame ~13’ wall than a 18’ wall.

 

[LXCam]

2x8s aren’t mentioned. I don’t care to frame all the way to the roof though. Would rather frame ~13’ wall than a 18’ wall.

Then double shear the wall, it'd eliminate the hinge point.

 

[Toolfool]

Simpson makes connectors for that situation and they should be called out in your approved plans. If not, call an engineer and ask .

 

[bad_idea]

Approved plans are not required in my county. I can give them a rough sketch of the floor plan and a material list, that is sufficient. I had plans drawn up to help me, and to make sure the building inspector and I are on the same page (me on his page). I reread the code and spoke with the inspector yesterday. I am allowed to use 2x6s up to 18' long for gable end studs. That means I can balloon frame the wall to the roof line as my longest stud will be 17' 6".

 

[cmandp]

Then double shear the wall, it'd eliminate the hinge point.

I'm curious but how is a double shear wall framed? Sheathing outside and inside or ...?

Hopefully the OP can forgive my curiosity since it's a tangent to his question.

 

[LXCam]

I'm curious but how is a double shear wall framed? Sheathing outside and inside or ...?

Hopefully the OP can forgive my curiosity since it's a tangent to his question.

Inside and out.

 

[firebirdparts]

I have never built a building with scissor trusses, but after thinking it over, I think I like the idea of a strap only. The overlapping of flat walls on the corner is a really nice joint, but a metal connector I think can adequately replace that connection. The wall is attached top to bottom anyway, but I know it's just not the same. Due to support of the trusses and ease of construction, I would make the side flat wall long, and the gable wall inside. The sheeting will overlap the joint naturally either way, and that also does a great job in addition to your strap.

 

[Homerr]

2x8s aren’t mentioned. I don’t care to frame all the way to the roof though.Would rather frame ~13’ wall than a 18’ wall.

Does not compute with the title of this thread.

Then double shear the wall, it'd eliminate the hinge point.

This is not true. I presume you're saying to plywood both sides of the 13'+5' high wall? There will still be a hinge point at 13'. Shear walls work the other way, i.e. in-line with the direction of the wall.

Plywood each side is marginally better than just one side, but the 5.5" rotational axis is putting a huge stress on the plywood with a 5' long lever above it. I've never seen any engineer do this, it sounds like spit-ball engineering to me.