JMLangford
Well-known member
Same here....just get up under one corner and put slow and consistent and the foam tape will pull away pretty easy
Modifications to the HF 4 and 5 drawer service carts - what changes have you made?
- Thread starter ndnchf
- Start date
Same here....just get up under one corner and put slow and consistent and the foam tape will pull away pretty easy
dougdoberman
Member
Kinda like a newb posting on a thread postulating on other people's reasons for stickering THEIR tool cart, just to feed his ego?
A newb to what?
This forum? Not really, I've lurked for a long time.
This thread? Sure. Just recently picked up a 5-drawer and was looking for any interesting modifications.
Tools? Fragile egos in the workplace? Mechanics who need to measure their ball peen size by the cost of their gear? Nah, I've been around that for 30+ years. Which is why I'm not really surprised that so many guys only modification is to remove the US General badging and replace it with Snap On.
johnehr
Well-known member
Finally checked this off of my to-do list. Added a dense black layer of carpet runner on top of the service cart as a part work surface, and mounted a small vice. Should come in handy!
Before:
Runner attached:
Closeup:
With vice:
Top still opens well:
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Before:
Runner attached:
Closeup:
With vice:
Top still opens well:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bondough
Member
Be fair. How about all the guys that replaced their Snap-on labels with US General ones.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Actually no... sometimes we are so impressed with HF, we badge it. I for one laugh at "tool truck guys" for drinking koolaid.
I just did a paint job on mine because I didn’t want the plain black. I wanted to remove those studs that prevent the rest of the doors from opening if the lid is shut. I couldn’t unbolt them for whatever reason so I just chopped them so they wouldn’t engage. I’ll also put some hdpe sheet on the lid since this will mostly be used for composites/fiberglass work.
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Bagherra
Well-known member
Diggin that paint job!!!
Thanks! It’s rustoleum hammered paint with some blue and white just splattered on top with a brush
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sweet victory
Well-known member
You must work with fiberglass boats? All my buddies with glass fishing boats have that painted on their decks, coolers, etc.
Nope, but that explains it. I copied some stuff from my uncle's garage, including jetski racks and boat racks...so there you go.
WWheeler
Well-known member
Here we have Jackson Pollock's personal tool chest, certified genuine, start the bidding at $50,000.
fartymarty
Well-known member
fartymarty
Well-known member
You're welcome, glad I could help. Remember now, there's a limit of only 5, so if you need more then you're just going to have to go back the next day.
ConductorChris
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2017
- Messages
- 160
I don't know if this video has been posted. But he makes some modifications to the five drawer in order to make it the same as the Blue Point cart.
I may be interested in one. Which drawers do you have available?
evercl92
Well-known member
Lots of amazingly awesome ideas here
MSRTom
Well-known member
I've looked through the last few pages (trying to make my way through the whole thread again), but I haven't seen this discussed: are the newer 4-drawer carts compatible with the older models?
They look to be the same dimensions, but I was hoping to pick up another 4-drawer to make the double-stacked configuration like a lot of you guys have done.
They look to be the same dimensions, but I was hoping to pick up another 4-drawer to make the double-stacked configuration like a lot of you guys have done.
stickshift
Well-known member
What size nuts/bolts are you guys using to attach stuff like hooks, pegboard, etc.? Seems like this isn't a high stress or high torque application, so I'm thinking relatively small fasteners, maybe even with Phillips heads, would be fine.
Loose Ctrl
Well-known member
It depends on what you're going through to fasten them to. If you're going through drywall to get to a stud. I would assume a 1/2 inch thickness on the drywall and use 2.5-inch construction screws. They are cheap and don't usually rust due to their coating or plating. I like my screws about six inches apart. The only load on pegboard is the weight of tools trying to pull it down the wall. Damn gravity.
Also, if you're hanging pegboard, you may need to space it away from the wall a little to allow the hooks to slide in easier. I use 1x2 lath. It's actually 5/8 x 1.5 or at least the stuff my local Lowe's sales is.
stickshift
Well-known member
To the subject of this 150pg thread - the HF service cart.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The fastener to use is entirely dependant on WHAT you are attaching to the cart... to which... is what we are asking.
stickshift
Well-known member
Hooks, pegboard. Might attach a couple of cordless impacts to a 16"x16" metal pegboard, but that would be secured to the cart using 4 fasteners. On another similar 16" square of pegboard, I might attach a wire basket and fill it with 4-6 spray cans.
Hooks would get 2 fasteners - might use a hook to hold something like an extension cord.
So I'm not attaching very heavy stuff, and not loading much weight (as I perceive it) on an individual fastener.
I'm just not familiar with best practices as it relates to matching fastener size to loads. I could use large diameter bolts, but that seems like overkill for the application and requires drilling unnecessarily large holes in the cart.
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PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The choice of fasteners for me...
Steel rivets for peg board sides... 3/16" you need to measure for proper length.
Hooks... I would match the original lag bolt size or use longer lag bolts and mount them in existing holes.
Steel rivets for peg board sides... 3/16" you need to measure for proper length.
Hooks... I would match the original lag bolt size or use longer lag bolts and mount them in existing holes.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Also consider stainless rivnuts if it fits your task... 1/4-20 or larger
stickshift
Well-known member
I don't have a riveter, but maybe this is a good excuse to get one. Seems hand riveters are inexpensive. Aluminum rivets seem very cheap, but steel rivets seem on par with nuts and bolts pricing.
Why use a rivet for this instead of nuts and bolts? I can access both sides of the angle steel that comprises the legs of the cart.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Since the cart is made out of steel... you would use steel rivets... in case you wanted to know why.
To be honest... sheet metal to flat peg board is a clear choice for rivets... if you want nuts and bolts ... go that route
To be honest... sheet metal to flat peg board is a clear choice for rivets... if you want nuts and bolts ... go that route
Loose Ctrl
Well-known member
stickshift
Well-known member
Makes sense, avoid galvanic corrosion.
To be honest, I don't know what I want simply because of lack of familiarity with riveting.
But it does seem like a great option for securing stuff to the cart's lid and not having bolt heads creating large bumps in whatever material is topping the lid. That, and I'll take your word on rivets being preferable fastener for pegboard to sheet metal.
stickshift
Well-known member
LOL. I was reading your post with my WTF face thinking I'd missed some bizarre cart + drywall mod in this massive thread, until I realized you were mixing up threads.
fartymarty
Well-known member
I hate when that happens (to me). I usually own up to it and then don't log on for a week or longer because of internet embarrassment.
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However, back to the question. For most things up to 200lbs my rule of thumb is almost always 1/4-20 fasteners. They are stronger than they look, are easy to find almost everywhere(at least in non metric countries), and if you have any strength of application doubts you can just use more of them because they really don't take up much room. Easy and economical to keep larger quantities (small boxes of 25 or 50) on hand. They are also readily available in several flavors including SS and black oxide cap heads etc.
Caveat: I don't own a HF Cart yet but I plan to get one soon before any tariffs start to mess things up.
Project_shadow
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2014
- Messages
- 677
Menards sells a rivnut gun now, 14$ goes up to 1/4-20 works great
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Project_shadow
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2014
- Messages
- 677
stickshift
Well-known member
I was looking at this pegboard online: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-1-Piece-Steel-Pegboard-Actual-16-in-x-16-in/50220687
The pic shows the mounting holes on the edges, and at 16" wide, this works for the 4-drawer cart. But the reviews say the mounting holes are 12" apart. Did you have to run some flat bar or similar material between the cart's uprights in order to mount the pegboard, or did you bypass the mounting holes and secure the pegboard to the cart's uprights?
Edit: I think I figured it out - those holes along the edges aren't mounting holes, they are meant to secure adjacent panels to one another so that pegboard hole spacing is continuous across panels. The actual mounting holes are a couple of inches in from the edge. So for attaching to the cart's uprights, probably easiest to use one of the pegboard holes along the edge (enlarging as necessary for fastener to be used).
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