Hey guys. I posted a while back about my new building i was putting up and its up and I have everything pretty well set up how I like. its a 40x60 with 12 ft ceiling and is fully insulated. So far this summer i have kept it at 75 degrees with a large portable air conditioner and it stays extremely comfortable (i'm in central Indiana). I'm looking towards winter and I would like to get a pellet stove to help take the chill off and keep things from freezing. I'm looking at the Vogelzang VG5790 which claims to cover 2800 sq ft and has a 120lb hopper. going this route mostly because i like to relax and watch the fire sometimes and because they are easily vented or so i thought! I was under the assumption i could just run a double wall pipe out the wall and i would be done. Well after reading instructions on some of these vent kits, they want you to have at least 4ft of rise and a cleanout and a fresh air vent that also leads outside. And a lot of these vent kits cost half as much as the stove! Can someone give me some insight on a realistic and safe but cost effective way to vent one of these through insulation and out the wall? Thanks a ton!
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Pellet Stove questions for barn
- Thread starter rbooe05
- Start date
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Congratulations on your new building!
There's umteen gazillian threads about stoves here. Doing a search would gain you a lot of info.
But be sure to check with your insurance so see what is allowed. Most won't have anything to do with a pellet stove. And several here may say "I just don't tell them". Well, that's great until the unthinkable happens and they say "coverage denied"!
There's umteen gazillian threads about stoves here. Doing a search would gain you a lot of info.
But be sure to check with your insurance so see what is allowed. Most won't have anything to do with a pellet stove. And several here may say "I just don't tell them". Well, that's great until the unthinkable happens and they say "coverage denied"!
Kaizen
Well-known member
I have a pellet stove in the house. Don’t think I’d do it again. It’s great when fuel oil is expensive but haven’t seen that in years.
Replacement parts are expensive. So after a few years I had to replace an auger motor for 100 and burn pot for 100. It goes on and on.
With 120 pounds I’m guessing that might keep it above freezing for 24 hours. Mine is small and at its lowest level a bag lasts maybe 12 hours.
Regarding the exhaust. I did the clean out and up 8 feet and out a foot. Neighbors had pros install theirs and they just went through the wall a foot and called it good.
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Replacement parts are expensive. So after a few years I had to replace an auger motor for 100 and burn pot for 100. It goes on and on.
With 120 pounds I’m guessing that might keep it above freezing for 24 hours. Mine is small and at its lowest level a bag lasts maybe 12 hours.
Regarding the exhaust. I did the clean out and up 8 feet and out a foot. Neighbors had pros install theirs and they just went through the wall a foot and called it good.
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Thank you guys for the response! I actually have been searching this topic for over a week now and I haven't been able to find a true installation to compare what I'm doing to. I may just stick with my quiet drive torpedo heater and call it good. I just like to be able to sit in front of a fire on a cool evening. Insurance is aware and they said it won't affect pricing or anything and as long as it's properly installed will be fine. But again that brings me back to "proper" installation.
Kaizen
Well-known member
Thank you guys for the response! I actually have been searching this topic for over a week now and I haven't been able to find a true installation to compare what I'm doing to. I may just stick with my quiet drive torpedo heater and call it good. I just like to be able to sit in front of a fire on a cool evening. Insurance is aware and they said it won't affect pricing or anything and as long as it's properly installed will be fine. But again that brings me back to "proper" installation.
By their term proper I bet that means permit and inspected. Although a pellet stove casts a flame on the room I don’t find it enjoyable to watch as it’s not as natural as a log burning. I will sit all night watching a real fire. Guess I’m not a modern caveman
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Bretny
Well-known member
You want to get outside air to the inlet on the stove, even if you buy there kit or make your own. They help even on wood stoves. All the air that goes out the chimney has to be made up by pulling outside air in.
I had a englander pellet stove, total junk. Said it would heat 2300sqft, my 1500sqft house was always cold. I had new insulation, drywall and tyvex wrap. Im in southern ny so mabe there heating foot print is a FL rating. Any way the thing was loud and broke so much i had to keep spare parts on hand. On the other hand my vermont castings wood stove can run 5 month out of the year with out shutting down and have never had to buy but a gasket kit for it.
I had a englander pellet stove, total junk. Said it would heat 2300sqft, my 1500sqft house was always cold. I had new insulation, drywall and tyvex wrap. Im in southern ny so mabe there heating foot print is a FL rating. Any way the thing was loud and broke so much i had to keep spare parts on hand. On the other hand my vermont castings wood stove can run 5 month out of the year with out shutting down and have never had to buy but a gasket kit for it.
Thanks for all the advice! The insurance thing does scare me a bit. I have way too much in this building and assets inside the building to not be protected. I ordered a 220,000 btu silent drive torpedo heater as they are much quieter than a standard torpedo heater and i can just leave a window cracked if i run it very long. I also have a heat pump setting on the air conditioner i put in and i have a small radiant heater i used last year that helps to knock the chill off so i think ill be covered this winter. Next summer i will look into a scratch and dent central air unit or possibly maybe ill find a good deal on a mini split with a heat pump and call it good! Thanks again!
Bretny
Well-known member
You wont like a torpedo heater. There for construction sites and emergency heating for a reason. I have tryed to use them in my garage before and you have two choices with them. Be warm or breath. Get a real heater.
GSRinmyCRX
Well-known member
I have a Harman p43 (have had no issues) and I ran it for 3 winters without an outside air feed. last year I hooked one up and didn't see much of a difference. for your situation I don't see why you would need it. the link below is for the p43 and the installation manual shows many different installation methods. I'm sure you can find something that would work for your situation.
http://www.harmanstoves.com/Products/P43-Pellet-Stove.aspx?page=Downloads
I would recommend Harman if you have them in your area. I have had zero issues and I am not great about keeping it clean.
Levi
http://www.harmanstoves.com/Products/P43-Pellet-Stove.aspx?page=Downloads
I would recommend Harman if you have them in your area. I have had zero issues and I am not great about keeping it clean.
Levi
Fibersport
Active member
I put in a st. Croix pellet furnace in my 1600 sqft pole barn, currently it's not insulated which is like trying to heat your yard. It will bring the temp up some and will consume about a bag a day, it's rated at 50,000 btus. Regarding the chimney, I ordered mine through Menards, cleanout, up 3 ft, 90 elbow out, all in about $300 or so. Fresh air intake can be done with vox or exhaust pipe, not very critical. I'm retrospect I should have fun straight out the back. Look at hearth.com for a pellet stove forum, great source of info. Remember anything that burns inside will produce massive amounts of moisture. I have a torpedo heater but may only use it to get the chill out before the pellet furnace heats up. I plan on a ceiling and insulation in the future so it should do just fine after that.
The SF calculations listed on any heating cooling appliance is a very wide general number. Location and insulation is so important.
W/O good insulation/ air sealing a single point heating source does not work all that well when sized correctly by SF.
It's all about BTU's -- some stoves produce so much heat that leaking is not a factor. My neighbor has a coal stove and it can overheat his large space -- it's all about the size. Coal is cheap -- and his place is leaky. With an expensive pellet -- you want one with make up air to the combustion chamber.
With a well insulated building any kind of unvented gas heater is a mistake -- breathing in the fumes and all the moisture produced ...I don't think you will like.
Price out the pellets .. they used to be big out by my country place when they first came around .. but the fuel and maintenance makes propane the easy choice.
Heat pumps are all about electric costs ...... I have a nice power vented sealed combustion propene cabinet heater -- they work very well and vent easily out the wall they are mounted -- most come with the vents.
W/O good insulation/ air sealing a single point heating source does not work all that well when sized correctly by SF.
It's all about BTU's -- some stoves produce so much heat that leaking is not a factor. My neighbor has a coal stove and it can overheat his large space -- it's all about the size. Coal is cheap -- and his place is leaky. With an expensive pellet -- you want one with make up air to the combustion chamber.
With a well insulated building any kind of unvented gas heater is a mistake -- breathing in the fumes and all the moisture produced ...I don't think you will like.
Price out the pellets .. they used to be big out by my country place when they first came around .. but the fuel and maintenance makes propane the easy choice.
Heat pumps are all about electric costs ...... I have a nice power vented sealed combustion propene cabinet heater -- they work very well and vent easily out the wall they are mounted -- most come with the vents.
ewang
Well-known member
I have a pellet stove in my house, as it came with the purchase. Would NEVER buy one and we ceased to use it after the first winter. As many have mentioned, replacement parts are expensive and hard to come by. The maintenance for mine was a bear. No way could I leave it run without monkeying with it for over 48 hours.
In my shop, I installed a 75k propane furnace that has run flawlessly and only runs me about $300 per year to heat. I recommend propane or NG if you have access to it.
In my shop, I installed a 75k propane furnace that has run flawlessly and only runs me about $300 per year to heat. I recommend propane or NG if you have access to it.