Best option for old/pitted garage floor

[frankd]

There's a ton of great info on these threads and I've been reading through a bunch of it these past few days. I think I've decided to go with a penetrating concrete sealer over a densifier. I was just hoping to get some additional input.

I've been in my house for just under 2 years. It was built in the 50's. It has an attached garage (about 20/20) and the garage floor isn't in the greatest shape. There are some cracks as well as inconsistencies in the finish. There's also lots of oil stains. Parts of the concrete are relatively smooth and other parts are pretty badly pitted (I can see 1/4" stones/pebbles protruding from the floor surface). Also, in 2010 the prior owner replaced a large triangle shaped chunk of the floor towards the garage door (I'm assuming it cracked/settled or something).

I'm always working on cars/motorcycles so I want the floor to be durable and stain resistant as well as being relatively slip resistant. Tiles are our because I imagine an oil spill would just be a pain in the a$$ to clean up. I like the look of epoxy but it's expensive, and I'd probably need to fist put down a floor leveler on the pitted section of the floor. Also, I don't want to have to deal with it flaking/chipping which I'm sure it would start doing in a few years.

So after reading some other posts I was thinking of first applying a densifier to strengthen the floor... followed by a penetrating sealer.
Is this a good option? can I put a sealer over a densifier? Is it even worth using a densifier in the first place or is that overkill?
Also, would sanding the floor first provide better results? I'm not sure I'd be able to smooth out that really rough section but I would love to.
Are there any products that you would recommend?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Garage Flooring]

There's a ton of great info on these threads and I've been reading through a bunch of it these past few days. I think I've decided to go with a penetrating concrete sealer over a densifier. I was just hoping to get some additional input.

I've been in my house for just under 2 years. It was built in the 50's. It has an attached garage (about 20/20) and the garage floor isn't in the greatest shape. There are some cracks as well as inconsistencies in the finish. There's also lots of oil stains. Parts of the concrete are relatively smooth and other parts are pretty badly pitted (I can see 1/4" stones/pebbles protruding from the floor surface). Also, in 2010 the prior owner replaced a large triangle shaped chunk of the floor towards the garage door (I'm assuming it cracked/settled or something).

I'm always working on cars/motorcycles so I want the floor to be durable and stain resistant as well as being relatively slip resistant. Tiles are our because I imagine an oil spill would just be a pain in the a$$ to clean up. I like the look of epoxy but it's expensive, and I'd probably need to fist put down a floor leveler on the pitted section of the floor. Also, I don't want to have to deal with it flaking/chipping which I'm sure it would start doing in a few years.

So after reading some other posts I was thinking of first applying a densifier to strengthen the floor... followed by a penetrating sealer.
Is this a good option? can I put a sealer over a densifier? Is it even worth using a densifier in the first place or is that overkill?
Also, would sanding the floor first provide better results? I'm not sure I'd be able to smooth out that really rough section but I would love to.
Are there any products that you would recommend?

Thanks for all the help!

First things first. Densifier is cheap and worth it. Unlike sealers, it does a permanent work.

IMHO sealers are not the best option for a damaged floor. All testing that is done on a sealer is done on concrete that is in good condition. As you get into damaged concrete it can be softer and is difficult to clean. Sealers do not build a mil thickness so they don't fix any of that.

So you are left with a lot of options that are less than ideal. In a perfect world you would grind the floor, fill any voids and cracks and then coat it. I would do a higher solids primer followed by 100% solids epoxy. All of that is significant work and significant expense. Its not 'hard' but it requires you read and follow the directions and probably a conversation or two or three before you do the install.

So really world quicker and dirtier solutions.... You could do a PVC tile. Quieter and softer than rigid tiles and NOT my everyday go to product because they stain from tires.

You could just deal... Power-wash the floor, two coats of our WB as primer and one finish coat with glass bead. Is it going to fail. Yup. Its got a bad substrate. But its going to hold much better than a higher solids product -- at the expense of not filling in as much.

I want to be clear here. My professional advise would be to properly repair and coat the floor. My living in a 100 year old home on a couple acres and having other priorities, recognizes that putting that time and effort into the garage might not be what you want to do and you might have to settle for an imperfect solution.

 

[frankd]

First things first. Densifier is cheap and worth it. Unlike sealers, it does a permanent work.

IMHO sealers are not the best option for a damaged floor. All testing that is done on a sealer is done on concrete that is in good condition. As you get into damaged concrete it can be softer and is difficult to clean. Sealers do not build a mil thickness so they don't fix any of that.

So you are left with a lot of options that are less than ideal. In a perfect world you would grind the floor, fill any voids and cracks and then coat it. I would do a higher solids primer followed by 100% solids epoxy. All of that is significant work and significant expense. Its not 'hard' but it requires you read and follow the directions and probably a conversation or two or three before you do the install.

So really world quicker and dirtier solutions.... You could do a PVC tile. Quieter and softer than rigid tiles and NOT my everyday go to product because they stain from tires.

You could just deal... Power-wash the floor, two coats of our WB as primer and one finish coat with glass bead. Is it going to fail. Yup. Its got a bad substrate. But its going to hold much better than a higher solids product -- at the expense of not filling in as much.

I want to be clear here. My professional advise would be to properly repair and coat the floor. My living in a 100 year old home on a couple acres and having other priorities, recognizes that putting that time and effort into the garage might not be what you want to do and you might have to settle for an imperfect solution.

Thanks for the reply. I was actually looking on your site for garage mat options which I was considering. I don't really care so much about how the floor looks (as it's terrible now). I'd just like to strengthen it and protect it from future damage. Easy clean up is also a plus.

We've got so many other priorities with this house other than the garage so I was just hoping for something quick, and relatively easy and affordable (under ~$750 all-in). ... but I know the floor needs some real work

 

[Garage Flooring]

Thanks for the reply. I was actually looking on your site for garage mat options which I was considering. I don't really care so much about how the floor looks (as it's terrible now). I'd just like to strengthen it and protect it from future damage. Easy clean up is also a plus.

We've got so many other priorities with this house other than the garage so I was just hoping for something quick, and relatively easy and affordable (under ~$750 all-in). ... but I know the floor needs some real work

Whats the square footage?

 

[frankd]

Whats the square footage?

Total of just under 400 square feet. I was doing some additional research and found some concrete resurfacing products. What are your thoughts on those? Seems like they'd only add 1/8" of thickness to the floor. But I'm concerned about adhesion. I don't often park the cars in the garage but I'm always working on cars/bikes and dropping tools. I'd imagine the resurfaced material would chip off easily making the floor look worse than before.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Total of just under 400 square feet. I was doing some additional research and found some concrete resurfacing products. What are your thoughts on those? Seems like they'd only add 1/8" of thickness to the floor. But I'm concerned about adhesion. I don't often park the cars in the garage but I'm always working on cars/bikes and dropping tools. I'd imagine the resurfaced material would chip off easily making the floor look worse than before.

Depending on the level of damage, resurfacing is likely the proper way to go. You absolutely need to follow their floor prep instructions

The WB product

Coat 1: 1 gallon diluted coves 400 Square feet.
Coat 2: Additional 2 gallons, higher build. (Actually need 1-1/3 gallons)
Coat 3: additional 2 gallons plus 2 glass bead (Actually need 1-2/3 gallons)

To save money 1 gallon split on site. so 4 gallons. 2 glass bead

~485 after GJ discount

 

[CJDave]

Clean it and cover it with Race Deck and forget about cracks and densifiers and staining and flake and paints and dyes and all of the other options. CJDave.

 

[david1122]

This could best idea for the flooring and for the business point of view too, i like the way you share the garage flooring tips, this would help me for my new setup which i am building...






Get busy living or get busy dying

 

[mike93lx]

Depending on the level of damage, resurfacing is likely the proper way to go. You absolutely need to follow their floor prep instructions

The WB product

Coat 1: 1 gallon diluted coves 400 Square feet.
Coat 2: Additional 2 gallons, higher build. (Actually need 1-1/3 gallons)
Coat 3: additional 2 gallons plus 2 glass bead (Actually need 1-2/3 gallons)

To save money 1 gallon split on site. so 4 gallons. 2 glass bead

~485 after GJ discount

I'm in a similar boat, just about 625 sq ft. Spalling, a couple cracks, seams from repairs, etc. Too many projects to dedicate days and days for repairs. Love the no odor piece as well since the garage is under our bedrooms

 

[frankd]

Clean it and cover it with Race Deck and forget about cracks and densifiers and staining and flake and paints and dyes and all of the other options. CJDave.

I was looking into race deck and various other coverings but my concern is regarding spills. I do a lot of work In the garage so I'm always spilling oil, coolant, etc. I imagine that with the race deck (or other tiles) the fluid would seep into the cracks requiring me to pull up the tiles to clean up the mess. is that not the case?

 

[frankd]

Depending on the level of damage, resurfacing is likely the proper way to go. You absolutely need to follow their floor prep instructions

The WB product

Coat 1: 1 gallon diluted coves 400 Square feet.
Coat 2: Additional 2 gallons, higher build. (Actually need 1-1/3 gallons)
Coat 3: additional 2 gallons plus 2 glass bead (Actually need 1-2/3 gallons)

To save money 1 gallon split on site. so 4 gallons. 2 glass bead

~485 after GJ discount

Thanks for the reply. Which product are you referring to above. Also, what's your experience with resurfacing? I'm concerned that since the new surface would be so thin...that it would chip off easily if I drop a hammer or something.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
Please send us an email directly at below so we have your email and can send you our 'Corroded Floor Bulletin' which details all of the various options for fixing, coating, and covering older pitted floors. Thank you.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Thanks for the reply. Which product are you referring to above. Also, what's your experience with resurfacing? I'm concerned that since the new surface would be so thin...that it would chip off easily if I drop a hammer or something.

Here is a link to the simple odor free epoxy https://www.garageflooringllc.com/simple-no-odor-garage-floor-epoxy/

I don't do resurfacing. We have access to it and we have a group of people that purchase it from us but I am not out there doing it every day. If I were going to resurface my floor I would pay a professional to do it and the entire system.

Pretty sure Scotty does more DIY resurfacing. If thats the direction you want to go it would definitely be worth a call to him

 

[Armorpoxy]

We are a Master Distributor for Laticrete Resurfacing Products so we have some experience with this. Our www.prep-crete.com Division pours hundreds of thousands of square feet of this per year.

If properly prepared and applied at at least 1/4" they should be quite damage-resistant. Skim coat products are prone to failure in a garage application.

 

[das_V8]

Hi
Please send us an email directly at below so we have your email and can send you our 'Corroded Floor Bulletin' which details all of the various options for fixing, coating, and covering older pitted floors. Thank you.

I'm not the OP but just emailed. I'm in same boat.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Handled/sent

 

[Armorpoxy]

We have the Corroded Floor Bulletin posted on our website..

https://254gg219z24i1qbcah3y1wxe-wp...t/uploads/2017/11/CORRODED-FLOOR-BULLETIN.pdf

 

[frankd]

Thanks for all the replies. This looks like it's going to turn into a much bigger project than anticipated. I think I'm just going to order some densifier for now to prevent further damage and then tackle this once we've completed the laundry list of other interior renovations that we're working on

 

[CJDave]

I was looking into race deck and various other coverings but my concern is regarding spills. I do a lot of work In the garage so I'm always spilling oil, coolant, etc. I imagine that with the race deck (or other tiles) the fluid would seep into the cracks requiring me to pull up the tiles to clean up the mess. is that not the case?

Use the FreeFlow Race Deck and all of that spillage, with a little soap, can be flushed through the floor tiles and draining with the floor slope. CJDave.

 

[Bad]

I'd recommend resurfacing your floor.