Two (more) Mitsubishi mini split questions

[aunsafe2015]

Thanks for all the help so far. Two more hopefully easy questions.

1) Did I wire the indoor unit correctly? See attached pictures. I stripped the wires by the length the installation manual specified, but it seems like it should have been shorter?

Also, for ground, I literally just wrapped it around the green screw and tightened it down. For red, black, and white, I loosened the screw, stuck the wire into the little slot, and tightened the screw back down.

2) Anybody know what these small filters are for (see picture)? They are listed on the parts sheet, but the manual doesn't actually say what to do with them... And I don't see an obvious place for them.

3) A few other random pictures attached for anybody who is curious to see more.

P.s. I'm a novice DIY-er so I apologize for my absurd questions. I'm having a licensed HVAC guy come by tomorrow to do the nitrogen test, vacuum, and initial turn on.

 

[tab2]

Thanks for all the help so far. Two more hopefully easy questions.

1) Did I wire the indoor unit correctly? See attached pictures. I stripped the wires by the length the installation manual specified, but it seems like it should have been shorter?

Also, for ground, I literally just wrapped it around the green screw and tightened it down. For red, black, and white, I loosened the screw, stuck the wire into the little slot, and tightened the screw back down.

2) Anybody know what these small filters are for (see picture)? They are listed on the parts sheet, but the manual doesn't actually say what to do with them... And I don't see an obvious place for them.

3) A few other random pictures attached for anybody who is curious to see more.

1. Looks correct in terms of placement, but it could be cleaner. especially with the ground. How long does it say to cut the insulation back? You don't want to leave that much exposed on your two hots and neutral. Back the screws out a enough to make sure you have proper engagement.

2. The green one is a HEPA filter I believe. I threw mine out.

3. The rest of the pictures look good; you will love them. I miss mine so bad at our new house. Thankfully this weekend we are salvaging some equipment that will be my new system (ducted this time around). Hole to the outside is sloped downward, unit is on a pad. The liquid tight is a little droopy but its hard to keep it tight without using 100 hangers. Be careful bending the linesets, but it is hard to damage them.

 

[PoorOwner]

if you back the screw out more you should be able to insert it further. Be careful the screw does not fall out. You try wiggle the wire , so the wire strand can hit the very end of the terminal

If you do end up trim the wires move it away from the unit so the little copper strands do not fall anywhere near the unit. As the picture shows, I would trim it.

the small filters snap into a little rectangle on each filter screen, you need to remove the screen.

 

[PoorOwner]

Here is a terminal pic I have from another brand, I think you just didn't insert it enough..


When you wire the outdoor double check the colors match the numbers, obviously, that's why I took pictures.

 

[aardquark]

Watch what this guy does, especially with the green ground wire. (In the video starting around 10:00).

 

[Git]

That's what I did - just crimped a ring terminal on it

 

[aunsafe2015]

Thanks for all the replies. Super helpful!

 

[aunsafe2015]

the small filters snap into a little rectangle on each filter screen, you need to remove the screen.

These filter screens? I don't immediately see where they would attach...?

 

[aunsafe2015]

1. Looks correct in terms of placement, but it could be cleaner. especially with the ground. How long does it say to cut the insulation back? You don't want to leave that much exposed on your two hots and neutral. Back the screws out a enough to make sure you have proper engagement.

2. The green one is a HEPA filter I believe. I threw mine out.

3. The rest of the pictures look good; you will love them. I miss mine so bad at our new house. Thankfully this weekend we are salvaging some equipment that will be my new system (ducted this time around). Hole to the outside is sloped downward, unit is on a pad. The liquid tight is a little droopy but its hard to keep it tight without using 100 hangers. Be careful bending the linesets, but it is hard to damage them.

Does this look better for the ground wire? The problem I'm having is that as I tighten the green screw down, the strands of copper flatten out and some of the individual strands pop out and are not secured down by the screw.

What's the best way to do this? Tighten it down as much as reasonably possible while keeping as many of the individual copper strands under the screw as possible? I don't have one of those terminal rings that somebody mentioned, but I suppose I could get one if this ground wire is going to compromise safety or function.

 

[PoorOwner]

These filter screens? I don't immediately see where they would attach...?

It goes on the bottom of the screen where the 2 little tabs is, you see the grid have more closely spaced bars? right in the middle of the screen, on the bottom.

When installed it stays on the INSIDE of the screen, just snaps on

 

[PoorOwner]

Does this look better for the ground wire? The problem I'm having is that as I tighten the green screw down, the strands of copper flatten out and some of the individual strands pop out and are not secured down by the screw.

What's the best way to do this? Tighten it down as much as reasonably possible while keeping as many of the individual copper strands under the screw as possible? I don't have one of those terminal rings that somebody mentioned, but I suppose I could get one if this ground wire is going to compromise safety or function.

It should be fine, but you can just use the wire stripper to make a cut about 5-6" from the end, then use pliers to start pulling the insulation back about 1", leave everything, then hook the exposed copper to the screw. You can then trim the "tail" of it but keep it as long as possible, at least 1-2" is preferred. That's what the pros have done, honestly I have done it like you have it has not come off or anything..

 

[PoorOwner]

By the way, you should be using one of these on your interconnect cable if possible

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1...-Strain-Relief-Cord-Connector-27693/202077093

 

[yeldogt]

you can counter twist the wires -- that helps. Or screw in a pigtail

 

[aunsafe2015]

It goes on the bottom of the screen where the 2 little tabs is, you see the grid have more closely spaced bars? right in the middle of the screen, on the bottom.

When installed it stays on the INSIDE of the screen, just snaps on

Got it, thanks. Does it matter which one goes on which side?

 

[PoorOwner]

You can only snap it in that way..... now let's see this thing installed before winter

 

[aunsafe2015]

You can only snap it in that way..... now let's see this thing installed before winter

HVAC guy had to reschedule for tomorrow. He had a good reason. Hopefully he makes it tomorrow though!

One more pic for now. It would have looked better centered above window, but I would have had to go above the header, which would have had it further up the wall than I wanted.

 

[aunsafe2015]

Still not finished. I had done most everything except connect the lineset to the condenser (I did already have it connected to the indoor unit, though).

He did not deburr the tubes. I asked if he was going to use a torque wrench and he said he doesn't need one.

Then, he is missing the adapter to connect to the service port. So he wasn't able to do the pressure test or vacuum.

So, basically, nothing got done today.

By the way, does anybody know if these newest Mitsubishi hyperheat units (MUZ-FH09NA) even need an adapter for the service port? I have a 5/16 to 1/4 adapter, but the female end won't connect to the service port. Too big.

I then tried to connect to the service port with a 1/4 ball valve I had, and sure enough, the 1/4" ball valve connected right up.

So what adapter does the guy supposedly need? This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D96EWKQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20. But like I said, the 5/16 female end is too big... 1/4 fits. Am I missing something?

 

[PoorOwner]

If the 1/4" works then it is 1/4"
I have heard of some of the mitsubishi are using 1/4"
although mine needed 5/16 adapter, so does daikin, pioneer etc.

 

[yeldogt]

did you figure out the filters ? They just slid into that long grove to the back top of the unit. The extra little filters are indeed odd - one is a microbial and the other a platinum screen.

I guess they wash the condenser in some type of magic vapor.



I forget -- where did you get your units?

The eye really works -- you will like the units. IMO ..still the best.

 

[aunsafe2015]

If the 1/4" works then it is 1/4"
I have heard of some of the mitsubishi are using 1/4"
although mine needed 5/16 adapter, so does daikin, pioneer etc.

He continues to insist that he needs an adapter. Doesn't seem to care that my 1/4 ball valve hooked right up.

 

[aunsafe2015]

did you figure out the filters ? They just slid into that long grove to the back top of the unit. The extra little filters are indeed odd - one is a microbial and the other a platinum screen.

I guess they wash the condenser in some type of magic vapor

Yep figured it out, thanks! Ecomfort.

 

[aunsafe2015]

He continues to insist that he needs an adapter. Doesn't seem to care that my 1/4 ball valve hooked right up.

And a guy on hvac-talk just said that all of the new Mitsubishi he has done lately have been 1/4.

 

[aunsafe2015]

Just to close the loop, seems that most or all Mitsubishi made after 2010 have 1/4 service ports, including all FH models.