To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Socket Organizers like some of the portable toolboxes?

KSJeff

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
764
Location
Andover, Kansas
I've tried several of the available socket organizers. I've tried this:
20170513_093037-S.jpg


and this:

20170425_145217-M.jpg


I'd really like something to get them all together a little more concentrated. I was thinking I could mount something to a flat piece of thin steel and mount it in the bottom of my toolbox drawer. I was looking around trying to find some rails like the ones on the portable boxes that were just straight pieces of metal wire/rod like these:

PWS4105TXRD_300_03-S.jpg


Have you ever seen something like this for sale?

Thanks!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

PhysicsDude

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2013
Messages
805
Location
Dallas, TX
The picture you posted of the mobile tool box.. I don't see how that's really any different than a Hansen-style organizer mounted at an angle? Are you looking for metal vs. plastic? Something with a smaller bezel so it takes up less room in the toolbox? Something modular so you don't have empty pegs?

there are a few good choices for the "flat piece of metal with pegs" type of socket organizer. Unfortunately, most if not all of them have uniform spacing, so they aren't as densly packed as what it looks like you want.

The Westling organizers seem to most closely resemble what you describe:

12.jpg

http://westlingmachine.com/ToolHolders.html
 
OP
K

KSJeff

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
764
Location
Andover, Kansas
Thanks lilredex. I saw those when I did a search. I'd like to avoid fixed sizes since I'm still adding.

It's not much different than the hanson ones I have. It just looks like I could get them closer together and have more sockets in one area.

I'm sure I can do this with rails, but i have some sets that start out 1/4 and go up through 3/8 and I'd have to mix quite a few.

The Westling stuff is nice for sure but I'd rather have 2"tines sticking up like that portable box.
 

JimNC

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 9, 2017
Messages
580
Location
NC
Have you considered roughing out what you want using a piece of plywood and screws or nails? Play with it until you get what you like and then look for a product that comes close unless you want to fabricate it.

I was considering making up something like the Westling but at higher density by making the spacing between rows variable or even reversing the order of alternate rows. Decided that I preferred the extra space for now, but am still thinking about wedge shaped holders going small to large for SAE and large to small for metric...but I’ve got more metric than SAE, don’t think mixing metric and SAE will work out, and don’t need the space so back burner. Point is that there is always another way to skin this cat.
 
OP
K

KSJeff

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
764
Location
Andover, Kansas
I have. I'm considering just what you're saying. Just getting a thin rail of wood and drilling and pressing some nails in there. Then just glue them to a thin sheet of plywood in the drawer.

I dont want them to be sharp though. I'll have to look around lowes tomorrow.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.
 

WWheeler

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
4,105
Location
Middleofnowhere USA
If you have access to a welder you could fabricate your own out of rod or bar stock or just cut the heads off some nails and weld up some Hansen-style trays yourself, sort of like this guy did to make his wrench racks using nails and sheet metal .,..

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dt68zwRmY-c" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

And don't know if this might work for you, but it does for me. I've been making Hansen-style holders, of sorts, out of wood. The black-stained wood holder with sockets on it is a test piece for the newer unfinished ones I've recently been working on. The wood stained one on the right is one of the first such sets I made back in the late 90s.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • socket-holders.jpg
    socket-holders.jpg
    98 KB · Views: 1,939
Last edited:

R_einan

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2016
Messages
461
Location
Eastern WA
Vim magrails are my choice, adjustable as your set evolves, strong magnets, and can be adjusted to fit multiple sizes on one rail. Love them, just not the cost of admission. I need to pony up and get another set to continue converting to them, but that eats into the tool funds! Lol
 

wyattstihl

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
215
Location
Michigan
b07963e5d183327d7279c71e14398ea8.jpg
I make and use these, not sure of thats what you are after but they work for a lot of people, including me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Attachments

  • b07963e5d183327d7279c71e14398ea8.jpg
    b07963e5d183327d7279c71e14398ea8.jpg
    777.3 KB · Views: 1

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,378
Location
Reading
And don't know if this might work for you, but it does for me. I've been making Hansen-style holders, of sorts, out of wood. The black-stained wood holder with sockets on it is a test piece for the newer unfinished ones I've recently been working on. The wood stained one on the right is one of the first such sets I made back in the late 90s.

attachment.php

This is what I would do in either wood or alloy .
I done one with alloy rod and some plate and had the holes interference fit so no need bond/weld, idea was also could knock the rods out and just do a new base if layout changed .
alloy ones is easy with a good drill press . wood probably cheaper and little easier making .
I not seen anything exactly like you wanting via retail .
 

BroncoAZ

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
2,669
Location
MA
I’ve been using the Craftsman version plastic socket rails with the ball detents for years. HF has something similar for $3.79, I need to go check them out in person to make sure they’re equivalent.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-pc-socket-rail-set-68101.html

The rails could be mounted to a piece of metal or wood and the sizes can be mixed on the rails to accommodate mixed size torx and allen sets.

I’m trying to figure out storage for my new impact sets currently. If the lids come off the blow molded cases I may just leave them in the cases, otherwise I’ll be doing some sort of rails.
 
OP
K

KSJeff

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
764
Location
Andover, Kansas
Well, rails may be the way to go. I'm going to hit the lumber yard today and see what I can find. I'm leaning toward trying to set some finish nails through thin plywood and spraying it with plastic coat. We'll see. Here's my current setup. Drawer is 36"x16" and that's about 3/4 of my sockets. I'd like to get my impacts in there too.

20180728_092522-M.jpg
 

Spiffers

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2018
Messages
92
Location
Tennessee
I’ve been using the Craftsman version plastic socket rails with the ball detents for years. HF has something similar for $3.79, I need to go check them out in person to make sure they’re equivalent.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-pc-socket-rail-set-68101.html

The rails could be mounted to a piece of metal or wood and the sizes can be mixed on the rails to accommodate mixed size torx and allen sets.

I’m trying to figure out storage for my new impact sets currently. If the lids come off the blow molded cases I may just leave them in the cases, otherwise I’ll be doing some sort of rails.

I read in a thread where someone said the ball detents didn't last long if you used them much. I had the same idea for specialty sockets.
 

CJM8515

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2014
Messages
9,302
Location
NJ
I like the Cman rails, they aint cheap but they work really well. the HF ones are ok but cheap. Thinner rail that flexes, the detent balls in the holders fell out on some of them, etc. for the price tho i have HF ones in my truck toolbox.
 

BroncoAZ

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
2,669
Location
MA
I read in a thread where someone said the ball detents didn't last long if you used them much. I had the same idea for specialty sockets.

The Craftsman ones are still made in USA, but cost $13 per set, not a terrible price if they are made as good as the ones I have. I think I purchased my initial sets in 2002 and haven’t had a single issue with broken clips or ball detents failing. I purchased a couple extra sets to get all the clips I needed for full rails, I still have a bunch of spares in another drawer. I usually grab the entire rack out of the drawer and take it to the project, with 1/2” deep impact sockets (3/8 to 1”) the rail definitely flexes. My only complaint is that the deep sockets can fall over in the box when moved.
 

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,378
Location
Reading
^ yeh I like take rail out to the job
craftsman rails decent quality for the price, the HF cost more than think as need couple extra sets make up for defects/failures .
I'm old school and still lay all my sockets flat, never liked it other ways .
 

WWheeler

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
4,105
Location
Middleofnowhere USA
The problem I have with almost all commercial rails are that (1) the ball detents or metal clips usually grab too hard to be able to grab a single socket one-handed without lifting/moving the whole set unless they are screwed down to something and (2) they aren't made to be able to cut them to length so you're stuck wasting precious drawer space on ends of rails sticking out from your sets or else even the longest available are too short for some complete sets to fit on one.

I do like the Hansen-style pegs because there's no interference with picking up or putting back a socket but they **** for having labeled sizes, some not included in most sets, or don't go small or large enough for other sets and they are not nearly as space-efficient as they could/should be.

I don't own any but it looks like VIM Magrails are about as perfect as you could get. They're the only magnetic-style tool holders I know of that employ multiple magnets of opposing poles on each tool so the tools themselves won't become magnetized, and they look like they can be cut to length pretty easy (I've never seen/heard anyone do that though)***, but they are insanely expensive. At ~$200 for their 10pc jobber pack, which is the best value I've seen for them, I'd need 5 or more of those packs just for the sockets in one of my boxes. :shocking:

Edit *** Found a vid where someone does cut VIM Magrails to length (link should go to 2:12 where he discusses it):

I wish someone would create an affordable set of socket holder bases with just a line of holes down the middle where you could customize Hansen-style post placement and the ability cut the rails to whatever length you need. That would be my ideal socket holder system. Until they do, I'll just continue to make my own.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,378
Location
Reading
Pretty much all the commercial rails with clips can be cut to length .
I had stainless clip ones for years and have them cut to handy lengths of sets/sizes and take them out on rails so always got most needed sockets right at hand .
These days I probably go for twist lock on rails just because remove easier one handed but prices are just crazy .
I don't like magnets on sockets and wrenches as metal debris can be quite a problem and sockets become slightly magnetic carrying debis which not great for some jobs .
For post type ones I think making yourself best way and cheap, alloy or wood work good and if doing a few then material cost works out good on a per socket basis .
 
OP
K

KSJeff

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
764
Location
Andover, Kansas
Those VIMs are very nice, but I probably have to pay $250 to get enough for my box. If I had it laying around I'd probably do it. They look perfect.

I went out and bought some 1/8" board and some nails. Going to press fit them in and spray it with red plasti-dip. I'll post up pics when I'm done.
 

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,378
Location
Reading
those walmart rails are good value .

If I was you ksjeff I would pilot drill the nail holes once marked layout as easier and be neater finish/fit
 

Wyoming09

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
522
Location
Wyoming, MI
Pretty happy with the Ernst socket rails. Dense enough so as to not waste a lot of space. Can remove individual rails to carry to the job. Sockets twist lock on rails. And not hugely expensive.
 

Attachments

  • socket drawer.jpg
    socket drawer.jpg
    143.7 KB · Views: 150

BroncoAZ

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
2,669
Location
MA
Pretty happy with the Ernst socket rails. Dense enough so as to not waste a lot of space. Can remove individual rails to carry to the job. Sockets twist lock on rails. And not hugely expensive.

The Ernst look good, but I’m not sure how I’d feel about the twist lock.
 

R_einan

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2016
Messages
461
Location
Eastern WA
Mechanics time saver makes a nice set as well, not as expensive or as low profile as the VIM. Looked at those first because they were recommended by a buddy, but to achieve the drawer organization I wanted, I needed the lower profile VIM. Which, when I bought them, it was about $120 for the 16” jobber pack. I need another 16” pack and some misc others to finish up, but the price is outrageous now. Had I known before they were going to jump like this I would have bought more the first time around... oh well, win some lose some.
 
OP
K

KSJeff

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
764
Location
Andover, Kansas
those walmart rails are good value .

If I was you ksjeff I would pilot drill the nail holes once marked layout as easier and be neater finish/fit

That's what I did. Mix of 7 and 8 d nails. Main sae side done. Metric and specialty sets next. I'm not sure I'll love it.
20180728_172519-M.jpg
 
OP
K

KSJeff

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
764
Location
Andover, Kansas
done with decent wood or alloy you probably love it .

Agreed. This is my $8 proof of concept. I think it works great for sockets, but I've got to figure out the 3/8" torx and hex stuff. A spline won't work for that.

Appreciate all the ideas.
 

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,378
Location
Reading
probably have be wood dowl cut to suitable length for enclosed sockets .
you doing the ply base full size of the drawer ?
 

JimNC

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 9, 2017
Messages
580
Location
NC
Nails are fine for proof of concept, but if you use brass tubing it’ll be stronger and you can just tap and glue it into the holes.

I’ve thought about using spent 22mag shell casings, but counterboring to sink the heads would not be much fun.
 
OP
K

KSJeff

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
764
Location
Andover, Kansas
Not sure I could get a 4mm over a brass tube. Like the idea though. I'm thinking this is a good reason for a drill press.
 

BroncoAZ

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
2,669
Location
MA
I had thought about making pegs that fit the holes in the bottom of my Lista drawers, similar to pegboard. Probably need to use metal for the pegs that could be threaded and screwed in from the bottom. I’ll likely stick with standard rails.
 

Attachments

  • DDB0E3D2-F706-466C-9C11-C1E664FF2EC7.jpg
    DDB0E3D2-F706-466C-9C11-C1E664FF2EC7.jpg
    148.8 KB · Views: 104
Last edited:

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,378
Location
Reading
Not sure I could get a 4mm over a brass tube. Like the idea though. I'm thinking this is a good reason for a drill press.

Yep deffo good reason for drill press :)
although may have trouble reaching all holes on your layout on a drill press bed.
with around 1/4" base you can press fit dowl or tube pretty easy.
I done rails with 1/4" bar for use with daily used impact sockets, was easy make well and worked nice for easy one handed use .
Prefer clip rails for general storage though .
 

billford

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2016
Messages
81
I really like that ! So you just drill out the pegboard holes and glue in dowel ?

For the short sockets, I just cut and use 1/4 inch dowels for all sockets, 1/4 to 1/2.

For deep sockets, I have to drill out the pegboard and use wider dowels, if you don't, the sockets will tip over.

Dowels are glued in place.

Custom make it to whatever fits in your box.

The materials are cheap but it takes a lot of time to assemble, but well worth it.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom