Source of supply for grooved 18" cedar shingles?

[FloorPaint]

Does anyone happen to know of a good, reliable source of supply for 18" machine-grooved cedar shingles? [Note: They are sometimes marketed as Blue Label (or Grade 1) CertiGroove western red cedar shingles.]

The exterior sidewalls of my house and workshop happen to be covered in double-coursed cedar shingles at a 12" to 14" exposure. I need to make some repairs, but I'm having trouble finding anywhere that sells shingles to match what I'm replacing. Thoughts?

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

 

[Milton Shaw]

Years ago I got some from Witt Lumber here in Knoxville Tn. 865 -588-5331 Its been 20 years since I bought them but they said they always kept a box or two in stock for the older houses that needed them to match..

 

[Homerr]

These seem about $100 overpriced compared to what I bought at a local Seattle lumber yard a couple of years ago.

But maybe shoot them an email if they have a reseller near you.
http://www.pacific-coast.ca/

 

[yeldogt]

They are not cheap -- My local lumber yard was able to order them up for me. Come in a box as in the link.

Mine are painted --- so I ordered the fully primed product. It's a very high quality product -- hence the $$

 

[FloorPaint]

Thanks for the information everyone!

 

[PugetDude]

https://www.ebay.com/i/153096055432?chn=ps

Not sure how this compares with Amazon.

 

[yeldogt]

The under coursing requires a decent product or you will be tossing a lot and playing around with it. It's not shim material.

I have it on a house my parents built in the 40's -- we have had to replace parts that get all the sun and wind .. but it's amazing how long it lasts if done correctly.

The nails are thin -- dipped galvanized. Need to use the correct nails -- done correctly few will crack. It's not hard .. but time consuming for those not doing it all the time ... like me

 

[Skiff Builder]

You should not pay more than about $260/ square for these. Forget online for this. Any good commercial lumberyard can supply them.
For nails it may pay to check your local "Restore". I just picked up 50lb box Maze hot dipped siding nails for $15.00

 

[FloorPaint]

You should not pay more than about $260/ square for these. Forget online for this. Any good commercial lumberyard can supply them.
For nails it may pay to check your local "Restore". I just picked up 50lb box Maze hot dipped siding nails for $15.00

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

You're right on the money with the price per square. Just a few minutes ago, I discovered that Menards sells them for $259/sq and will ship them to me for $17.

I've checked some local lumber yards, but they either didn't have them, or wanted $400+ per square.

By the way, nice deal on the nails! I'll have to check my local ReStore this week to see what they have.

 

[yeldogt]

My memory is the box had the nail specification on it w/ actual sizing. I can't stress the proper nail enough ... I'm not at the house so I can't take a picture. It's a thin nail with a small thickish head -- the head has small hatch marks on it.

Our place is in an area where this look is common -- so you get to see the performance of various jobs over the years. Not many people end up doing it correctly

 

[Skiff Builder]

Generally for double coursed 5/2 **** shingles you would use a 5d siding nail. If your within 15 miles of saltwater - 316 ss. Over 15 miles 304ss or hot dip galv.
The checkered head helps hold paint. The tip slightly blunted helps prevent splits. The thin flat head flushes without over penetrating. Generally only 2 nails, 2” up from **** and 3/4” in from edge. Very wide shingles can be split to help reduce cracking. Don’t nail too tight.
Pic below is a 7d nail for thicker shakes.
Got to love cedar- it has soul....

 

[Homerr]

Compared to what my house was originally nailed with and what I matched those nails in the pic have way too large a head on them. I used a galvanized finish nail as the head had to fit down in the groove to not be noticeable.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Did you have to set each nail in order not to flatten the groove points with your hammer? You’ve got to be careful that the “bulb” in the finish nail head won’t cause later splitting. Shingle not too thick at the bottom of the groove. Sounds like it worked out well for you.

 

[FloorPaint]

Thanks again everyone. You've provided some great information!

In case you're interested, I've discovered that the Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau offers a free manual on installing cedar shingles on sidewalls, available here: http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation-and-maintenance/wall-manual/.

The Bureau also offers installation and maintenance tips for roofs and sidewalls: http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation-and-maintenance/

 

[Homerr]

Skiff, I did set each nail. Some of the grooves are thicker than others and I tried to hit those with a little more meat behind them. I did split a couple. I was replacing some on my house and garage, I think it was 3 boxes worth.

Nice find FloorPaint.