Richard D
Well-known member
I'm working on a 1942 DeVilbiss. Don't know how to post pictures now that Photobucket get greedy.
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wrenchguy
Well-known member
re: 1934 quincy redo.
whats best for compressor pipe threads when putting back together? i got teflon tape or paste.
thanks.
whats best for compressor pipe threads when putting back together? i got teflon tape or paste.
thanks.
Can you guys give me any information on this compressor. It’s available locally and is said to be running great. The guy is moving and has a garage full of large items he can’t take.
It is a Saylor Beall upright compressor. I️ don’t really need a compressor but have a relatively new Husky 20 gal, 175 psi compressor in the garage. I️ don’t really like it and love the look of the older compressors. I️ can get this one for $150.
Pros, cons. Should I️ just keep what I️ have? Mostly for working on my cars and not used daily.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is a Saylor Beall upright compressor. I️ don’t really need a compressor but have a relatively new Husky 20 gal, 175 psi compressor in the garage. I️ don’t really like it and love the look of the older compressors. I️ can get this one for $150.
Pros, cons. Should I️ just keep what I️ have? Mostly for working on my cars and not used daily.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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redmondjp
Well-known member
It's really up to you. It's a small, single-stage compressor (don't know what the maximum pressure is currently set at on it, but 100-120psi is the maximum) that will be fine for intermittent use. It won't support a continuous-use air tool for more than 5-10 minutes at a time if that.
And it will probably still be running after you and I are both dead.
If you are using air nailers, airing up tires, the blow gun for short bursts, and the occasional impact gun to spin off a few lug nuts, it will be fine. But you won't be doing any continuous grinding, sanding, or sandblasting with it.
454ragtop
Well-known member
re: 1934 quincy redo.
whats best for compressor pipe threads when putting back together? i got teflon tape or paste.
thanks.
Hey Mike, either one should work fine, I prefer the Teflon paste myself, easier to use and it seems to set almost like Loctite.
wrenchguy
Well-known member
re:1934 quincy refurb.
done except 4 decals, pulley and belts. all on order.
engine done, video running.
tags refurbed.
done except 4 decals, pulley and belts. all on order.
engine done, video running.
tags refurbed.
This ones still sitting in my old shop in Ohio. Vintage,means I'm afraid to plug
it in...
The gas station I worked in as a kid still had the original
1938 vintage air compressor.A very rythmic low rpm chug sound not irratating
at all. We pulled the valves and cleaned them about once a year.It finally
died about ten years ago. The replacement died about a month after the
warranty ran out...
Home made from an old refrigeration compressor. Wonder how good it worked, can't change the oil on it either.
Old thread revival, where can you get parts for this compressor pump? I heard IR recalled some of these and I guess they figure the pumps are obsolete.
Movin/on
Well-known member
Picked up this old air compressor for free because it had a 3 phase motor. I'm converting it to a single phase 5hp Baldor motor since I've got a couple of spares.
The compressor tag says Lincoln 9203 (I thought it was 9503) picture attached.
This seems to be a 4 cylinder compressor but is it 2 stage?
2nd question I'm planning on trying to match the motor speeds and the old motor was 940 RPM. Pulley sizes are 8" motor and 16" compressor. I'll reduce the motor pulley diameter to match the 2 to one ratio adjusted to the RPM drop required. Will a 5HP baldor have enough torque to turn the compressor efficiently? 220V amprage available isn't an issue.
Tank is a 100 gallon horizontal on heavy duty casters.
Thanks for any advise
The compressor tag says Lincoln 9203 (I thought it was 9503) picture attached.
This seems to be a 4 cylinder compressor but is it 2 stage?
2nd question I'm planning on trying to match the motor speeds and the old motor was 940 RPM. Pulley sizes are 8" motor and 16" compressor. I'll reduce the motor pulley diameter to match the 2 to one ratio adjusted to the RPM drop required. Will a 5HP baldor have enough torque to turn the compressor efficiently? 220V amprage available isn't an issue.
Tank is a 100 gallon horizontal on heavy duty casters.
Thanks for any advise
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redmondjp
Well-known member
That's a Quincy 325 Record Of Change (ROC) 10 - see the serial number plate. It has a Lincoln brand name on it but was made by Quincy.
Yes, a 5HP motor will run that just fine. It's a two-stage compressor pump and a very good one at that. There is plenty of information on this pump out on the web as well as on this site.
with a 5HP motor at 900RPM (maximum recommended for that pump by mfr. but you can always go a bit slower and your motor will be happier) it will produce 18.64 ACFM at 175psi. You can also dial back the pressure range, say down to 120-150psi, which will make the motor work less hard as well.
Yes, a 5HP motor will run that just fine. It's a two-stage compressor pump and a very good one at that. There is plenty of information on this pump out on the web as well as on this site.
with a 5HP motor at 900RPM (maximum recommended for that pump by mfr. but you can always go a bit slower and your motor will be happier) it will produce 18.64 ACFM at 175psi. You can also dial back the pressure range, say down to 120-150psi, which will make the motor work less hard as well.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
A Vee twin
Movin/on
Well-known member
Redmondjp:your quote.
with a 5HP motor at 900RPM (maximum recommended for that pump by mfr. but you can always go a bit slower and your motor will be happier) it will produce 18.64 ACFM at 175psi. You can also dial back the pressure range, say down to 120-150psi, which will make the motor work less hard as well.
When you say reduce the compressor RPM how far should I go with the reduction? I've done some searching and saw as low as 480RPM. I can probably get down to 600 RPM with pulley sizes.
Richard
with a 5HP motor at 900RPM (maximum recommended for that pump by mfr. but you can always go a bit slower and your motor will be happier) it will produce 18.64 ACFM at 175psi. You can also dial back the pressure range, say down to 120-150psi, which will make the motor work less hard as well.
When you say reduce the compressor RPM how far should I go with the reduction? I've done some searching and saw as low as 480RPM. I can probably get down to 600 RPM with pulley sizes.
Richard
Michigan Mike
Well-known member
Roadkng it looks very much like a sanborn I used to own.
redmondjp
Well-known member
That's up to you - the tradeoff is less flow - if you have a 5HP motor, there isn't much point in slowing down the pump to the point where it is only needing 3-4HP - you want to get the most out of your motor w/o overheating it. You won't be happy with the performance if you only spin the pump at 480rpm (you could easily use a 3HP motor for that pump speed) as you'd be getting less than 10CFM out of it (might as well go buy a box store single-stage compressor at that point).
I'd look at available pulley sizes and shoot for 850 pump RPM +/-. If it comes out to 830, fine, 850, good, 870, OK too. It will affect the motor load somewhat.
Once you have selected your motor pulley, check your motor current as you hit your shutoff pressure to ensure that you aren't overloading the motor. Like I said, you can also dial back the shutoff point so it doesn't go all the way up to 175psi - many 2-stage compressors I have worked around shut off between 150 and 155 psi. That will also help limit the motor maximum amp draw.
My brother checked the amp draw on his 5HP 2-stage compressor that he built, and he is actually exceeding the motor full load amps (FLA) by 4-5 amps in the 15-20 seconds before the pump shuts off. So far, it hasn't caused a problem yet, but he doesn't use his compressor very heavily, so the motor has a chance to cool down for a good amount of time between cycles. If he was doing sandblasting or a lot of air tool sanding/grinding, he would probably cook that motor fairly quickly.
And unless your motor overload protection setting is really matched well to the motor, you can easily fry a motor this way - the motor won't complain about working harder, but it will get hotter which will shorten the life of the insulation on the windings. Once that breaks down, it's new motor time (it's not economical to rewind this size of motor).
Hopefully this makes sense - you want to spin that pump as fast as you can to get the maximum flow out of it, without overloading your motor. My initial suggestion was to slow it down a bit, maybe losing 1CFM, which will give you a little headroom on the maximum power required from the motor.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
I'd say if the picture was bigger, and there were a few aimed at the ID tags you might get more specific results. My '48 Devilbis has that same motor, but I don't really think its original.
TRWham
Well-known member
Picked up this Kellogg 331TV over the weekend. Built in 1958 with a 60 gallon tank. Set-up with a 7.5 hp single phase motor to run just over 600 rpm, but these were usually 5 hp. Included a regulator, filter and lubricator that we removed for transport. We changed the oil and fired it up. Our tests show it's doing 20 cfm or better at 175 psi and sounds just as it should. They do have enormous displacement compared to similar compressors, so I guess I'm not surprised it pumps so much. We need to replace the tired old Delco starter, but otherwise just a good cleaning and flushing and it's good to go.:
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damon18
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I was searching through this topic to see if I could ID a pump I found for sale. It appears to be a twin of the one on your compressor.
I'm pretty good at Googling and haven't been able to find a match on the Internet until I saw yours. I doesn't help I only have this one picture and the owner doesn't know anything and says can't read the tag other than it says Quincy on it.
What do the experts say? Are the two the same? What imodel/age/specs is it?
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damon18
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Also posted this in the Garage Sale thread since I found it on Facebook Marketplace
Campbell Hausfeld VT910201AJ, serial number 121284L - 242733
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7119471#post7119471
Hope to find some practical info on it. Seems like it's from 1984, which is pretty darn old and I need a compressor that works.
I bought it because it has the checklist items 115v/230v capacitor motor, two cylinder cast iron pump, flywheel/fan enclosure, USA made, that I thought makes it a serious compressor. But it's so old most of it's parts are listed as obsolete. Also some basic information is eluding me like where is the air filter?
Campbell Hausfeld VT910201AJ, serial number 121284L - 242733
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7119471#post7119471
Hope to find some practical info on it. Seems like it's from 1984, which is pretty darn old and I need a compressor that works.
I bought it because it has the checklist items 115v/230v capacitor motor, two cylinder cast iron pump, flywheel/fan enclosure, USA made, that I thought makes it a serious compressor. But it's so old most of it's parts are listed as obsolete. Also some basic information is eluding me like where is the air filter?
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redmondjp
Well-known member
Damon - congratulations on your new compressor! The air filter is that small rectangular piece of what looks like felt on the top of the cylinder head.
How is the oil level in the pump, and is there much/any oil in the tank when you drain it? You can use non-detergent 30W oil for the pump, or Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic (some new pumps of your design now actually specify this oil).
I like to remove the petcock on the bottom of the tank and install an elbow, with a 6" section of horizontal pipe coming out with a ball valve on the end. That makes it much easier to drain the tank.
396foxRN
Well-known member
theyre both Quincy's. the brown one is a 306, and the smallest 2 stage they offered in that series. Obsolete, but parts can still be found on ebay/interwebs. the blue one is likely one of the single stage 2xx (2 hundred - something) models, with both pistons the same size, and no intercooler.
damned Quincy's are so stoutly built and just plain cool, I now have 5 of them here. Need to figure out which one to keep in the garage under the house, and which one to put in the real garage thats about to be built. Currently, I have a 1940 something model 330 in the underhouse garage on an 80 gallon tank and a 7.5hp single stage motor. Have another late 60's 325 I fully rebuilt sitting on a 60gallon upright tank and a 3hp motor, and a 1952 model 244 on an 80 gallon with a 5hp single stage that I just rebuilt the head on. Sitting on the trailer under cover, and waiting on the garage to be built and for me to decide which to run out there is a 2005-ish 5120 4cyl, and a 1970-ish 390, the largest of the 2cyl 2 stages. The 390 is most likely adequate for any future plans, but I keep thinking 'what if....'
the completely rebuilt 325, and the 244 with the rebuilt head, most likely will be up for sale soon. The 1940's one is just too cool to let go, and I just rebuilt the head on it too.
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
2 hp is about one third of the size of what most people really want. Great for filling bicycle tires and tire rotations. Blast booth? Forget it.
Is it needing a rebuild? (Old is a 1950 vintage). Look deeper. Lots of CH models use some of the same parts. Lots of pumps use the same footprint. Hack and slash. Mix and match. If you get donors cheap enough, many things are possible. For $50, you made your investment just in the motor and pulleys. Anything extra is just gravy.
Run it until it breaks. ( or until you find that great deal you just gotta have)
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damon18
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks for the tips, I'll be adding the elbow-pipe-valve, the existing drain is a twist valve like on the drain of a Chevy radiator, takes several turns to open and close and it's hard to get a hold of.
Some rust colored oil didn't come out when I opened the drain, not a lot though, after a few times there was very little.
I haven't found a manual for this online but there is a label on the side that says to use SAE 10-40 but doesn't mention non-detergent like I usually see.
One thing, I sent an email to Campbell Hausfeld about the compressor and got an answer right back with a parts diagram attached and an answer to my question about the filters. Turns out the foam filters are missing, I'll be ordering those.
As far as I can tell it works correctly, oil was a little low, I topped it off with 30 weight until I can get some 10w-40 to change the oil. Didn't want to run it long without the foam filters but it came up to pressure really fast.
One thing that seems odd is it doesn't have a tank pressure gauge, so I'm not sure how much pressure it's building to. I'm thinking I should replace the safety pop-off valve just in case.
This is SO MUCH QUIETER than my 21 Gallon Harbor Freight! It's OK to run even in a closed garage, not just less DB but lower note, more of a chug-chug instead of screech. If it really puts out 6.3 at 90psi it will handle the limited use (air ratchets, original impact wrench, and blow gun) that I need for a home garage.
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damon18
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks, it seems to run well although I'm still figuring some things out. I'm only running air ratchets, blow gun, and impact for tire changing, so even though I have big compressor envy, if this thing can really put out 6.3 @ 90PSI it will do the job for me. (but I'll keep watching for that next good deal)
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
Roadkng, looks like you have an a E.L. Smith/Sanborn.
wrenchguy
Well-known member
Richard D
Well-known member
Damn you the same one I have the tank marked 1942 ? Mine is almost completed for rebuild just need to clean and paint . I had to swap out the tank though :{ It had a hole in it the PO stuck a screw in and kept using it he was the original owner.
Cypher
Richard D
Well-known member
Seems like it was the original tank, it is marked DeVilbiss, was bummed out it leaked. I didn't get it from the original owner, but a friend of mine who is about 90 years old! I knew him 40+ years ago when I was a little kid, then meet him again by chance at a Vintage Chevy Club meet. Small world and all that. I also have a Quincy 325 compressor only, that I got from him over ten years ago. He did buy that one new in 1981.
Parabolst
New member
A few years ago my dad gave me his old Kellogg rAmerican air compressor from back when he was doing a lot of home autobody work and painting.
It hadn't been used in about 20 years and is really old. Plate on the side of the tank says 1945... It's one heavy-duty monster. I think it's about an 80 gal tank.
I replaced the pressure switch, put on a new air filter, put new oil in the pump, ran a 220v line in my garage and fired it up. Has been running like a champ ever since.
I just came across a 1945 Quincy compressor with no motor sat for probably 15 20 years put a harborfrieght 5hp 220v motor on it changed the oil and new filter and that thing works like a champ. Needed a new pressure switch as well but for a free compressor I couldn't be happier
petitcharles
New member
hello new her from Quebec looking for a air compressor to operate a devilbiss finishline spay gun do you guys no the spec of this compressor?
petitcharles
New member
sorry can not download pic for now
Old Faithful
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2015
- Messages
- 82
Hey guys, I just got this old machine for a pittance, was quite intringued by its configuration, it's 4 cylinder, powered by a Leland Electric 3/4HP motor, no tank... Couldn't find any other markings under the many coats of paint. Wondered if that rang a bell with anyone...
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
I saw a garage sale on my way home from work tonight and stopped in. I bought a Saylor-Beall air compressor for $5.00.
Well, it is a pretty small one.
It supposedly works, but I haven't tried it yet. Even if it doesn't, it will still be good for display purposes once I clean it up some. I think it's made out of lead...I could barely pick it up to put it in the trunk of my car.
Well, it is a pretty small one.
It supposedly works, but I haven't tried it yet. Even if it doesn't, it will still be good for display purposes once I clean it up some. I think it's made out of lead...I could barely pick it up to put it in the trunk of my car.
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Loose Ctrl
Well-known member
In an old vintage film about diving, I saw a similar set up to provide air for the diver. He was wearing one of those space suit looking get-ups with the big brass diving helmet with the round porthole in the front.Hey guys, I just got this old machine for a pittance, was quite intringued by its configuration, it's 4 cylinder, powered by a Leland Electric 3/4HP motor, no tank... Couldn't find any other markings under the many coats of paint. Wondered if that rang a bell with anyone...
Old Faithful
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2015
- Messages
- 82
In an old vintage film about diving, I saw a similar set up to provide air for the diver. He was wearing one of those space suit looking get-ups with the big brass diving helmet with the round porthole in the front.
Thanks for the tip, the air gauge was busted but it was setup to go up to 30PSI, so presumably it was for supplying at low pressure like I suppose would be suplied in these suits depending how deep they would go... 30PSI would sustain 60 feet underwater pressure if my math is correct... In nay case I could not find anything online doing image search, will look for vintage diving movies.
Here's a closeup of what's remaining of the label on the pump with my interpretation above it.
Any other ideas what the label is likely to be? All I know is it was made by Campbell Hausfeld in Harrison, Ohio, and the the motor is a 1/3 HP Leland Electric Repulsion Induction AC Motor, age unknown...