Protecting Wood Work Surface Outdoors

[jonshonda]

I am building an outdoor work bench for the times when the weather is nice and I don't want to make a mess in the garage (heavy grinding, wire wheeling, sanding). I went to the local resale shop and scored a 2" thick commercial door for cheap. It is a interior solid core wood door that is currently stained. I am wondering what I should use to protect it. I wouldn't mind keeping the natural wood look, but painting isn't out of the question.

It will eventually have a roof over it, but for now will be exposed to sun only in the afternoon, and be exposed to the wonderful Wisconsin elements year round.

 

[rlitman]

Is this chip board solid core? Most commercial solid doors that aren't fire rated are chipboard in the center, with a frame of wood around the perimeter to accept hinge screws and support the lockset. These need real protection from water, or they will fall apart. Particularly around the holes bored for the lock.

 

[Shiftless]

Any flat surface exposed to the weather, hot sun,rain, snow, etc. is going to deteriorate. To slow down that process, I’d say your most economical move would be paint. You probably have some left over exterior acrylic enamel laying around. If not, go to a paint store and buy a quart can of mis-tint. Won’t be more than $5.

Of course this being GJ, some might suggest a more durable solution such as pourable epoxy for a glass smooth bar top type finish. Or 6 coats of marine grade spar varnish. If you sanded it once or twice a year and reapplied, it would last almost forever.

One of my workbenches in the garage is a recycled IKEA butcher block countertop that I have protected with several coats of thinned down polyurethane varnish. Just wipe it on with a rag.

 

[Skiff Builder]

I would just use that as a base and cover with a piece of ext rated ply either painted or not.

 

[jonshonda]

Is this chip board solid core? Most commercial solid doors that aren't fire rated are chipboard in the center, with a frame of wood around the perimeter to accept hinge screws and support the lockset. These need real protection from water, or they will fall apart. Particularly around the holes bored for the lock.

I'm gonna guess it's chip board, as it was a unsecured door...no handle or locks.

Any flat surface exposed to the weather, hot sun,rain, snow, etc. is going to deteriorate. To slow down that process, I’d say your most economical move would be paint. You probably have some left over exterior acrylic enamel laying around. If not, go to a paint store and buy a quart can of mis-tint. Won’t be more than $5.

Of course this being GJ, some might suggest a more durable solution such as pourable epoxy for a glass smooth bar top type finish. Or 6 coats of marine grade spar varnish. If you sanded it once or twice a year and reapplied, it would last almost forever.

One of my workbenches in the garage is a recycled IKEA butcher block countertop that I have protected with several coats of thinned down polyurethane varnish. Just wipe it on with a rag.

I was guessing sanding, priming, painting was going to be the best, but I kinda like the wood look. Doesn't really matter I guess, the hole project only cost me $30 so far.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Would a metal wrap work, like SS, Aluminum or a galvanized tin?

 

[jonshonda]

Would a metal wrap work, like SS, Aluminum or a galvanized tin?

I was thinking about that too. We have galvanized and stainless at work, and can bend it to fit.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I used SS and wrapped our pantry door. Purchased a handle that was identical to our stove to mount to door. Since all our kitchen appliances are SS, people think it is another fridge. Looks great!

 

[Shiftless]

I was thinking about that too. We have galvanized and stainless at work, and can bend it to fit.

If you have access to sheet metal and equipment to wrap a door, go for it!
If you’re patient, you might score a slightly damaged unsaleable piece or a customer reject that could work for you. Or just work a few hours of OT and get paid in metal!

 

[Kaizen]

I'm gonna guess it's chip board, as it was a unsecured door...no handle or locks.







I was guessing sanding, priming, painting was going to be the best, but I kinda like the wood look. Doesn't really matter I guess, the hole project only cost me $30 so far.

I wouldn’t put any work into the door if you are going to leave it outside. Moisture will get into it eventually so just use it till it dies


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kbs2244]

I am with kaizen on this.

 

[matt_i]

Sawhorses? Carry it back inside at the end of the job?

The seamless metal wrap (in 304 stainless) sounds good but $$$ and hammer blows to it are going to dent unless you go thicker.

Good materials for outdoor in my mind would be concrete, brick, stone, pressure treated timbers, trex (etc), ipe and teak.

 

[sgf13]

I am with kaizen on this.

Me too. I bought a table made of the same stuff years ago. It was even laminated. I put it in a small covered building with no sides. After two years I went out to lift it up and a piece came off in my hand. It was mush.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk