L.S. Starrett steel rule rust clean-up?

[1982fxr]

Got this in the kennedy lot. Not sure if it matters but it is also marked hardened...

How should I clean this rust up without affecting markings?

Thanks for any help

 

[M6erfan]

Anything too strong and it'll probably take the print off too. I'd start with some coca cola or maybe CLR. Whatever you use, test on a small spot first

 

[1982fxr]

Thanks.

Forgot to get a side shot and not sure if it matters but this is a thick rule, not a thin one. Maybe 1/8” thick?

 

[larry_g]

I go at those with some Hoppes #9 gun cleaner and fine scotch bright, white if you have it. The marks are engraved in so not as fragile as some. I also have some soft brass toothbrushes that will get in the groves without damaging base metal.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[doublearon98]

Fine steel wool

 

[bmwrd0]

Steel or brass wool, real fine like 0000 and some machine oil will take that right out.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

WD-40 and a rag while you watch a movie or something, see where that gets you.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I use a block of Bright Boy. I have had it for over 40 years and keep it in my machinist box for this purpose. People also use it to keep model railroad tracks clean.

 

[ScottsGT]

Evaporust?

 

[JimNC]

That looks like it belongs to a combination square.

 

[bubinga]

That looks like it belongs to a combination square.

Yep, yeah it does.
Beat me to it.


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[PFSard]

I's be interested to see what method(s) you chose with an after pic.

 

[rlitman]

Anything too strong and it'll probably take the print off too. I'd start with some coca cola or maybe CLR. Whatever you use, test on a small spot first

Print? That’s engraved.

 

[dr_clyde]

Print? That’s engraved.

Yes, but there's still paint in the engraving.

Those are satin chrome plated, I'd avoid abrasives and use a little evaporust or kroil and a rag. That's not rusted bad, should clean up good.

 

[M6erfan]

Print? That’s engraved.

What makes the indications/letters/numbers (the print) black?

I was saying that too harsh a chemical will remove the paint...

 

[rlitman]

Yes, but there's still paint in the engraving.

Those are satin chrome plated, I'd avoid abrasives and use a little evaporust or kroil and a rag. That's not rusted bad, should clean up good.

Evaporust won't remove any enamel in the engraved markings. 0000 steel wool won't either. A wire wheel might.

If it's satin chrome plated, it would probably say that. Many of these were made unplated, and the pictures don't make it clear to me which type it is.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

I cleaned an engraved machinist's square with Semichrome polish and a polishing brush on a Dremel. Came out like new.

 

[jimreed2160]

I have cleaned up many old rules but this advice applies only to the NON plated ones. I use 800 grit AO sandpaper and Simple Green. Put the rule on a 2x4 and use another 2x4 as a sanding block. Use enough SG to gently lubricate. Once you have removed the surface rust, give it a good clean with SG and paper towels or rags. Dry it thoroughly. If the etched markings are not easily visible, go over them with a black Sharpie pen and then polish the rule with a Scotchbrite pad on a sanding block. Clean off the residue and give the rule a light rubdown with 3 in 1 oil or Johnsons paste wax.

I also use this method on old saws but reduce the effort on rules. Gentle cleaning is best.

 

[JMLangford]

Pffffff......That ain't rusty .....I can clean that with my eyes closed and one arm tied behind my back....

All seriousness aside .....all the suggestions so far have merit, although I'd use a wire (brass) brush sparingly.

The Hoppes #9 and a scotchbrite pad is best of the bunch.....Be sure to scrub/rub parallel with the groove in the center....if you scrub crossways you stand a chance of removing the coloring in the markings.

Go slow and with a light touch near any numbers and markings, but in the center and any clear spot you can be a bit more aggressive.....

Is the 2nd picture the bulk of the rust or is there more at the ends??

Take your time and good luck


.

 

[ttpete]

That looks like a chrome plated one. That chrome is pretty hard and I would just use 4/0 steel wool with a little oil. I don't think the surface is rusted, maybe the square head rusted and deposited it on the blade.

 

[lilxtra]

Just went through a Snap-on/Starrett precision measurement training course 2 weeks ago and they recommend their (of course), M1 cleaner. The oils from your hand can cause "mucho rusto". We had to wear rubber gloves on all the measurement tools we used.

 

[6PTsocket]

Anything too strong and it'll probably take the print off too. I'd start with some coca cola or maybe CLR. Whatever you use, test on a small spot first

Coke contains very weak phosphoric acid . It works very slowly. The trouble with any acid is that it does not discriminate between rust and good metal. By the time the rust is gone the surface of the rule will be etched.That is fine for something to be painted. Not so great for a rule. I would use Evaporust. It only removes rust but the pitting left behind by the rust is permanent. A light coating of the rust protectant of your choice will fend off more damage.


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[anndel]

Flitz and a rag

 

[6PTsocket]

Do you want to put a shine on a matte finish rule or risk rubbing out the filled scale marks?

Flitz and a rag

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[alinc100]

any update from the OP? Ruler would be cleaned up ,somehow by now and in my toolbox.

 

[Mr. T]

What makes the indications/letters/numbers (the print) black?

Ink/enamel fill.

 

[dccharacter]

I just cleaned one like this yesterday (1947 combination square/center finder/protractor). Vinegar bath, 3 in 1 oil after. Tried gun cleaning "One shot" lubricant - failed, flash rust in 1 hour.
The cleaning didn't affect the plating though I had a lectrolite wrench in the same bath and it almost completely lost coating.

 

[6PTsocket]

That would be my choice. Coke, vinegar or any acid rust remover will etch the surface evenutually. Evaporust only removes rust and does not react with good metal. That is also why I prefer it over abrasives, too.

Evaporust?

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[Davefr]

Question:
Why aren't most machinist precision measuring tools not made with Stainless Steel?

I've seen tons of Starrett tools with rust. Does Starrett use plain steel to "maintain their everyday low prices"

 

[dr_clyde]

Question:
Why aren't most machinist precision measuring tools not made with Stainless Steel?

I've seen tons of Starrett tools with rust. Does Starrett use plain steel to "maintain their everyday low prices"

A lot are. Caliper frames are a good example. Pretty much every caliper I've ever touched has had a hardened stainless frame.

Honestly, the majority of precision tools are treated very well, and most don't rust unless they are neglected. I have a box full of micrometers, rules, and other hand tools that are in great shape, no rust to be found, but I use them often.

It has become less of an issue in recent years, but stainless steel is more difficult to work with, expensive, and using it would put an already expensive tool out of the reach of many machinists. Stainless steel doesn't make as good of a tool steel as carbon steel. I think you'll find that precision tools aren't made of "plain steel". I would guess at a minimum they use a medium to high carbon steel that has been heat treated.

 

[6PTsocket]

Question:
Why aren't most machinist precision measuring tools not made with Stainless Steel?

I've seen tons of Starrett tools with rust. Does Starrett use plain steel to "maintain their everyday low prices"[emoji38]_hitti

I doubt it is to save money. This rule says "hardened". Stainless is relatively soft and might be more likely to get dinged up than the alloys they use. It is a good question. I can't think of a lot of anybody's tools being stainless.

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[MShaw]

There are stainless steels that will harden to Rc 55 quite easily. That is about as hard as a good quality sheath knife.

 

[rlitman]

I doubt it is to save money. This rule says "hardened". Stainless is relatively soft and might be more likely to get dinged up than the alloys they use. It is a good question. I can't think of a lot of anybody's tools being stainless.

I have plenty of stainless calipers and rules that say hardened, but when it comes to rules, I don't have any stainless FLEXIBLE rules that also say hardened. This rule however is actually a blade for a combination square, and as such is not flexible. I own a number of combination squares, and one Mitutoyo has a hardened stainless blade (it also has a hardened steel square on it, but that isn't stainless). The rest have either soft stainless blades (Johnson, with a zamak square), or hard steel (B&S, with a cast iron square). Such are the shaded differences between a $15 tool and a $150 tool.

There are stainless steels that will harden to Rc 55 quite easily. That is about as hard as a good quality sheath knife.

Yes, but it's not all about hardness. Many rules need flexibility. They're more of a spring steel, and while many types of stainless can be hardened, those types are less corrosion resistant than the types that cannot, and are also less springy and more brittle than other non stainless steels that can be hardened even more. It's all about trade-offs.

 

[jimreed2160]

I have plenty of stainless calipers and rules that say hardened, but when it comes to rules, I don't have any stainless FLEXIBLE rules that also say hardened. This rule however is actually a blade for a combination square, and as such is not flexible. I own a number of combination squares, and one Mitutoyo has a hardened stainless blade (it also has a hardened steel square on it, but that isn't stainless). The rest have either soft stainless blades (Johnson, with a zamak square), or hard steel (B&S, with a cast iron square). Such are the shaded differences between a $15 tool and a $150 tool.



Yes, but it's not all about hardness. Many rules need flexibility. They're more of a spring steel, and while many types of stainless can be hardened, those types are less corrosion resistant than the types that cannot, and are also less springy and more brittle than other non stainless steels that can be hardened even more. It's all about trade-offs.

Excellent points. It is good to remember that there are many design requirements for measuring tools and rust resistance is really far down that list. Good measuring tools often lead pampered lives.