Enclosed car trailer tie downs

[bams50]

Just bought a new enclosed car trailer. It has the usual 4 D rings in the floor. I’m wondering if I should spring for e-channel with bonnet straps like in the link. http://www.snappinturtle.com/race-car/wheel-bonnet-e-track-stx-kit/

I will be hauling expensive colllector cars. Even with crossing the straps, I feel a little uneasy trusting it.

So, what do you use?

 

[firebirdparts]

I know you're not going to wreck, but I am always surprised to see, when somebody does, and car collectors start looking at the damage via internet, that they used e channel. It can't hold a car, so when the car comes loose in an accident, the damage is much much worse. It just seems really dumb to me.

 

[4 FN 27]

I wrote this a couple of years ago when the topic came up on the Camaro Forum:

In my 30+ years of hauling Racecars to the track I found the best method is to winch the car in unless you have a Lift Gate Trailer (keeps you from having to climb out of the window). Pull it in forward or backwards so you have the correct tongue weight on the trailer. This is key to keeping your tow vehicle stable. Gear/Tools/Spares in the front of the trailer has a lot to do with this. I measure the squat of the vehicle and write it down so as the load in the nose changes I can adjust the position of the car to keep it somewhat the same. Hope that makes sense. Nothing worse than the tail wagging the dog.

Tie downs? Everyone has their opinions. I like to let the cars suspension work with the trailers so I tie off to the A-Arms if I do not have hook locations on the car (which I will be adding to my Z). The straps should cross in an "X" pattern in the front and in the back keeping the car centered in transit. They will move left and right if you do not "X" them.

In the pictures below the Trailer is a Featherlite Model 4926 which has the most clearance I found. With my 427 Vette I have about 3 inches on each side and the Z28 about 2 inches. It is tight but works. The Featherlites hold their value over the years. I have sold 10+ year old Featherlites for close to what I paid for them new.

Once you establish the best location for the car I have custom made to length straps made for the end of the vehicle towards the front of the trailer and use heavy duty ratchet tie downs in the rear. You just have to make sure the car is perfectly centered. If you are a little right or left 1 strap will be lose and after a little travel the car will shift and they will all be lose.

Don't skimp on the trailer. Look at the value of what is inside...

"X" in the rear, "X" in the front.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion and we all arrive safely to the track or home. Just when you see the aftermath of an off high trip through the ditch or down an embankment is when you realize there might be a better way to strap down you vehicle. A friend of mine is a Commercial Vehicle Inspector and I listen to his expertise and crossing the straps is best to keep the car located in the center of the trailer in an upset. They have requirements properly securing a load in transit. Next time you pass a flatbed transporter on the highway look at how they tie off. Always in an "X" fashion.

 

[manwithtools]

D-Rings (recessed and welded to the frame) and Macs straps in cross connection.

 

[mike93lx]

E track is only rated for 2k lbs working (per etrailer) but good d rings can be 10x that or more. I'd rather have some d rings in the right spot than track, although i would probably install track for securing other items so the trailer can be used for more than just a car

 

[laser3kw]

my observation when hauling lawn equipment is that the more parallel the straps are to the floor, the more the vehicle can bounce up and down. This can lead to the vehicle moving around during transport.
I'm sure that as the weight of the vehicle goes up the less noticeable it is. I have had 800 lb lawn tractors move several inches with what I thought was secure tie down. I now try to pull as vertical and perpendicular as possible. And when in doubt, more straps.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I have recessed D rings in my trailer but they are through bolted to plates that are welded to the frame underneath.

Why spend good money on straps and tie downs to have the D-rings screwed into the floor ? Just my opinion.

 

[manwithtools]

my observation when hauling lawn equipment is that the more parallel the straps are to the floor, the more the vehicle can bounce up and down. This can lead to the vehicle moving around during transport.
I'm sure that as the weight of the vehicle goes up the less noticeable it is. I have had 800 lb lawn tractors move several inches with what I thought was secure tie down. I now try to pull as vertical and perpendicular as possible. And when in doubt, more straps.

This is why cross strapping was recommended in many of the posts above.

 

[rsanter]

My friends trailer has both.
Very usefull for hauling things other than just cars.
I like the Drings as long as they are placed right and attached to the frame properly.
I would add more Drings if you don’t like their placement

 

[kd3pc]

I am in the well made D-rings welded to the frame or firmly attached to the frame camp. Hauled race cars and equipment for years.

The failures I have seen, are on the track separating from the floor and cheap, under sized, worn ratchet straps.

 

[minytrker]

My friend hauls exotic cars for a living, all the pics he sends me they have straps on the tires inside his enclosed trailer. He also has several 18 wheelers for normal car hauling and they either use straps on tires or chains with J hooks in the frame.

With all our race cars we use X method and d rings in the floor. Some we have tie down hoops on chasiss and others we use j hooks in factor frame.

 

[Fueler]

I am in the well made D-rings welded to the frame or firmly attached to the frame camp. Hauled race cars and equipment for years.

The failures I have seen, are on the track separating from the floor and cheap, under sized, worn ratchet straps.

I have seen the same thing more than once.

To the OP.
Get under there and see how those d rings are attached.
If there is no metal support under there that is your first modification.
Otherwise stay home.

 

[Jeffgage]

I bolted these in with metal plates underneath.

 

[mikegt4]

This web site has a lot of info, one could spend a couple of hours looking through it. They use to have a good PDF ("E track wheel strap guide") for download on e-track system design for enclosed trailers but I can no longer find it on their web site.

https://www.autohaulersupply.com/

 

[6768rogues]

I just bought a new aluminum open tilt bed trailer and almost went with E track. If the tire is on top of the E track so the loop over the tire is pulling straight, it works well. E track is not as strong when it has a load at an oblique angle. My cars vary in width by about 6 inches, so they would not all sit on the E track. Also, the car has to be in exactly the same position every time it is loaded.
I had the trailer dealer weld on 5 aluminum tie downs on each side of the trailer. My buddy who has a flatbed service uses these for cars that are too low to reach under to connect: https://zips.com/parts-detail/aw-direct-8-point-trailer-flatbed-tie-do-tp421g
It is an 8 point tire tie down system. I bought a set of those and I also have axle straps and ratchets for axle and A frame tie down, when the car is high enough. I have never crossed straps in the thousands of miles I have hauled.
Look at AWDirect, online or in their printed catalog. They have a lot of systems for tie down.

 

[ace10]

Versatie tracks and wheels nets with remote ratcheting.

Eventually you will come across a car which simply cannot be strapped down by anything other than the wheels.

Such as this one...

My Lotus in an ATC enclosed. The doubles going to the rear tow point are just a tiny bit of extra insurance.

$0.02

 

[WhiffySpark]

Versatie tracks and wheels nets with remote ratcheting.

Eventually you will come across a car which simply cannot be strapped down by anything other than the wheels.

Such as this one...

My Lotus in an ATC enclosed. The doubles going to the rear tow point are just a tiny bit of extra insurance.

$0.02

Nice setup but if you had to straps through the wheels and d ring it, controls arms etc. there’s always a way

 

[ace10]

Nice setup but if you had to straps through the wheels and d ring it, controls arms etc. there’s always a way

Thanks.

I'm far from an expert on the subject, but here are my further thoughts having installed this system specifically for this car almost ten years ago and hauling it all around the Southeast...

On a car like the Lotus with a bonded aluminum chassis and suspension pickup points which cannot be repaired if damaged, it's not advised to connect to anything inboard of the wheels. People do it all the time, but I've toted that car around a bunch, and want to be as safe as possible in terms of not damaging the car and not creating a road hazard due to a loose load.

As for going through the wheels... in the rear it is feasible and quite easy because there is plenty of wheel visible and the parking brake can be used to stop rotation. But the front is a different story. There's isn't a way to prevent the wheels from rotating. Which can result is loose tie downs and damage to the body. And, worst case, failure of the entire tire down system.

I believe this to be the case for any car where you cannot connect to the front wheel directly in-line with the hub.

I found more pics of the setup if anyone is interested but hasn't seen them in action.

1st pic is Front right corner.
2nd pic is Rear right corner.
2rd pic is the tail of the net going to the remote ratchet out front.

 

[bams50]

Thank you for all the replies. Yes, the D rings supplied by the factory are bolted through plates welded to the frame.

Based on the comments here, I think I will just stay with the D ring/cross strap method.

 

[Falcon67]

I use e-track but I make sure it's secured to the floor cross members where possible. Haven't had any issues from the dragster to the 3000 lb door car and have been over some really ruff **** - ruff enough to knock the lights out of the trailer ceiling even driving at low speed.

I would also recommend a inflatable bladder - that will help stabilize the center of the car. The dragster people use them - I use a smaller heavy duty implement tube because I'm cheap the dragster only sits about 3" off the floor. I prefer to tie the door car down by the frame to keep it from bouncing around. I prefer the D rings in front but the e-track works if secured well. E-track is about the only way to do the big dragster tires.

It's too late for this, but for doing what you are doing I would have ordered a trailer made to my specs. Our 34' is made to order and didn't cost much more than an off-the-lot unit. Makes a huge difference usability. But you can easily add more d-rings and such. Also, get under it and MAKE SURE they put re-enforcing plates and that all the bolts are tight. Do NOT take anything for granted in a off-the-lot unit or even a built to spec.

 

[NUTTSGT]

It's too late for this, but for doing what you are doing I would have ordered a trailer made to my specs. Our 34' is made to order and didn't cost much more than an off-the-lot unit. Makes a huge difference usability. But you can easily add more d-rings and such. Also, get under it and MAKE SURE they put re-enforcing plates and that all the bolts are tight. Do NOT take anything for granted in a off-the-lot unit or even a built to spec.

I whoie heartedly agree with Chris. If you're buying a trailer and can wait a few weeks, order it to your specs. My trailer didn't cost any more to have it built "my" way over their way for the options I wanted. My tie downs are exactly where I wanted them.

 

[bams50]

Actually, I did order this one to spec. I ordered it at the worst time of the year. Took me 2 1/2 months to get it.

Also I guess I should add, this is far from my first trailer. I have been towing trailers for 40+ years. I guess I was mainly wondering if there was some new tie down technology I didn’t know about.

 

[BroncoAZ]

I don't cross the straps on my 20' flatbed trailer. With my Bronco I go with a strap from each corner of the axle out to the side of the trailer to the tiedown at a 30-40 degree angle. I also use an additional strap from the rear axle to the back of the trailer for good measure. In the 11 years I've towed it this way it's never moved. I tried crossing the straps initially, but the crossed straps seemed to be at too great of an angle across the trailer and I was concerned they wouldn't prevent the truck from coming forward in an accident.

I have towed a few other cars with the uncrossed straps connecting to the front a arms and rear trailing arm or other heavy component. With a low car (passat, Camry, Mercedes E500, Subaru Outback, VW Touareg have all been on this trailer) it really doesn't look as secure with the straps crossed as the straps are basically going across the trailer at a shallow angle. It looks like it would keep the vehicle centered on the trailer, but doesn't do much to secure it front to back. If I don't cross them I can get a 30-40 degree pull towards the corner.

I'm getting ready to sell my diesel truck and the trailer as my needs have changed and I'm not really towing much the last couple years. Eventually I'll probably get another car trailer in the future (aluminum next time so I can use a 1/2 ton tow vehicle), I'd like to set it up with a tire tiedown system. Most of the exotic car haulers I see in the work place are using a tire tie down setup with a safety chain going to something under the car. Something like this:

http://www.take3trailers.com/Soft-tie-System.html

 

[6768rogues]

I don't cross straps, either. I figure that if one strap fails, the other one on that end of the load will have a chance to do the job until I fix the failed strap. One might fail in an emergency, and I would not have a chance to fix it. If that happens with crossed straps, the load will tend to pull to one side and get loose. One failing with both ends crossed will let the load shift and get loose, because it would have a pivot point. If one were to fail, it would probably be when I need it the most and it is subjected to its highest forces. I never had a strap fail, but I never had to subject them to maximum forces in an emergency situation, either.
Also, if I use axle straps and put them on straight, they wrap around control arms or the rear axle smoothly. If I were to cross the straps, they would have to go against the leaf springs or something to keep from sliding to the middle, and that angular pull makes them bunch up.

 

[Falcon67]

>wondering if there was some new tie down technology I didn’t know about.

LOL, same ways as always. What works, works. Forgot to clarify, on the door car I use 3" straps that wrap around the axle, not crossed and 3" front straps on the front frame also not crossed. No problems in the last 15 years either flat bed or enclosed towing.

 

[4 FN 27]

I don't cross straps, either.

I did a little experiment. I loaded a 2003 Corvette into the top front slot of my Race Car Hauler. We tied it down front to back, no crossing of the straps. Left here (St Paul) and drove to Charlotte NC. Inspected the car several times on the way. We noticed the car had slid side to side up to 1.5 inches. You could see the Aluminum Floor shined up where the tires were sliding side to side. Nothing front to back. And the straps were tight.

We scuffed up the floor and crossed them on the return trip. The Car did not move.

Now keep in mind The car is basically 9 1/2 feet off the ground on the upper deck so any side to side movement is amplified up that high off the road. The smooth Aluminum Floor didn't help the situation either.

My Crew and I were having the same discussion about strapping vehicles at the time. Our issue was taking the load off of our new Penske Racing Shocks.

It was some time after that I had my buddy, MN State Patrol CVI (Commercial Vehicle Inspector) take a look at how we were tying down. He demanded crossing the Straps front and back just for this reason.

About 2-3 years after that we were heading back from Iowa and I got a call from one of my Racing buddies who left a couple of hours before us. He lost control of his Dually pulling a 26 foot tag down a hill at 65 MPH. His Truck and Trailer did a complete 360 and went down an embankment backwards after going through a Cable Guard Rail. Truck and Trailer were both totaled. The Cables had cut right through.

Once the wrecker got it pulled back up he was able to drive the car out of the trailer into my Trailer at a Truck Stop about 3 miles north. His car never moved.

His Nitrous Bottle were all over the place, his Rupp Roadster got damaged and his tool box was ripped from the floor. But his 69 Chevelle was not damaged at all in all in the upset.

We are all free to do as we please...me I'll be crossing straps and chains.

 

[bams50]

I agree with crossing as well. To the guy that said, what if a strap fails, I would say, you’re a lot more likely to have a car want to move laterally than you are to have a strap break.

We can have most control over our quality of straps and tiedowns. If you know what you’re doing it is almost impossible that you will ever have a strap break. What we cannot control his road conditions – the kind that could theoretically create side to side movement. Given all of that, I will act on the side of probability and cross the straps. Great discussion everybody!