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I'm looking for a good tutorial on building a garage loft

b-boy

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I'm looking for a good graphical tutorial on building a garage loft on my 30X40 pole barn.

I'm specifically interested in a detailed, step by step process that includes some discussion on hardware I should be using.

My plan is for a 30ft x 6ft loft. I'll use 2x10s for the ledger, 2x8s for the joists, double 2x10s for the main support on top of 4x4 posts.

Everything I've found so far has been pretty basic.

Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
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theoldwizard1

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Around here those are typically called a mezzanine. Search for that.

The biggest mistake most people make is simply attaching a ledger to the studs of one wall with lags. This is not adequate. You need to transfer the load down to the foundation. Attaching a 2x4 to the stud under the ledger should be adequate.

You also need to check span tables. 30' 2x10 do not exist and if they did a double one would likely not be adequate. Most lumber yards can help you. Maybe I-joists or LVLs on 24" centers, but only a span table can answer this.
 

NUTTSGT

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Where's Bill at ? He has helped a few other members with some calculations for their projects. I'm sure he would be more than willing to help you out also.



EDIT: I sent Bill a PM, I'm sure he'll be along shortly.
 

MrSurly

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This does not answer your question; it is just a note about how I chose to approach a similar challenge in my 30 x 40 x 14. Just food for thought, grist for the idea mill. I wanted a much larger loft area AND I wanted a free span (no posts).

I used a 30' I-beam and a 20' I-beam to build a semi-freestanding 15 X 20 loft. Three iron legs stand on the slab. There are 6" steel C-purlin for joists. The back side is attached to three of the posts. There are no mid-span supports and nothing attaches to the roof trusses. I did not get it engineer stamped, but I *think* I'm within safe limits for attic storage purposes.
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b-boy

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Around here those are typically called a mezzanine. Search for that.

The biggest mistake most people make is simply attaching a ledger to the studs of one wall with lags. This is not adequate. You need to transfer the load down to the foundation. Attaching a 2x4 to the stud under the ledger should be adequate.

You also need to check span tables. 30' 2x10 do not exist and if they did a double one would likely not be adequate. Most lumber yards can help you. Maybe I-joists or LVLs on 24" centers, but only a span table can answer this.

Thanks. My plan is to build a half wall underneath the ledger board. The bottom of the ledger will sit at 7-ft. The 2x4 wall will be built under that. It's for running water and electrical without drilling through any of the posts. I guess that would make it a load-bearing wall (sort of). I thought that would take some of the load off the lags.

I'm planning on a 4x4 post every 8-ft if that is sufficient. The doubled 2x10 would sit on the posts. 8ft would be the maximum span between posts.

The loft will be primarily for storage.
 
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bczygan

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Easy peazy!

Bill here.

First, some questions.

What will be the use of the space underneath? In other words, will you have a wall under any portion of the main, 30' beam? Or will it all be open, with the beam spanning the entire 30'?

Next, what is the height of your space? And what clear headroom do you want below the mezzanine? And what minimum height do you want above the mezzanine floor?

What is your roof slope inside? Photos?

And the size/spacing of your posts/columns?

Stair or ladder or lift for access?

What use will the mezzanine have? If storage, how much and what kind of stuff? What weights?

Bill
 

theoldwizard1

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I'm planning on a 4x4 post every 8-ft if that is sufficient. The doubled 2x10 would sit on the posts. 8ft would be the maximum span between posts.

I am no expert, but span tables say that with 10' spacing of load bearing posts (across the 30' span), you can use a single 2x10, but that is with a 24" spacing so you will need 4 of them. This means 3 rows of posts.

If you just want a front carrying beam and the back ledger (supported by a row of 2x4 studs 16" O.C.), this is way beyond just checking a span table.
 
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b-boy

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Easy peazy!

Bill here.

First, some questions.

What will be the use of the space underneath? In other words, will you have a wall under any portion of the main, 30' beam? Or will it all be open, with the beam spanning the entire 30'?

Next, what is the height of your space? And what clear headroom do you want below the mezzanine? And what minimum height do you want above the mezzanine floor?

What is your roof slope inside? Photos?

And the size/spacing of your posts/columns?

Stair or ladder or lift for access?

What use will the mezzanine have? If storage, how much and what kind of stuff? What weights?

Bill

My pole barn is 30'x40'. I have 12' ceilings (11'6" after concrete).

I'd like to build a storage loft. The area under the loft will have at least 6.5' clearance. That should give me 4'+ above the loft for storage. The loft will be 5.5' wide and run the span of the building. The width is limited by the placement of a window. Storage will consist of tools, lawn furniture, etc. Nothing too heavy. I'm planning on using a ladder for access.

The area under the loft will be used as part of the main work area. I will build a u-shaped wall under the ledger that wraps around the entire area under the loft. This wall will allow me to run electrical and water without having to drill holes in my posts. It will also help support the ledger board. The ledger board will be a 2"x10" screwed into the beams using lag screws.

The main beam will be a double 2"x10". I'm planning on sistering 2"x10"x16' boards to create the beam. I'm planning on a 4"x4" post every 8' (or less if possible) to support the beam. The ends of the beam will be resting on the wall I've built below the ledger. Any splices in the main beam will be positioned directly over a post.

The joists will run perpendicular to the ledger and be spaced 16" OC. The deck will be 3/4" plywood.

I don't know my roof slope, but I don't have scissor trusses, and I'm adding a metal ceiling. So 4' is about as much height as I can get above the loft deck.

My main concerns are:
  • Will this work?
  • What's the proper hardware to use?
  • Building the main beam
  • Are 4"x4" posts enough - would 4"x6" be a better option?
 
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b-boy

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I am no expert, but span tables say that with 10' spacing of load bearing posts (across the 30' span), you can use a single 2x10, but that is with a 24" spacing so you will need 4 of them. This means 3 rows of posts.

If you just want a front carrying beam and the back ledger (supported by a row of 2x4 studs 16" O.C.), this is way beyond just checking a span table.

I'm not sure what you mean by 24" spacing... Does that mean joist spacing?
 
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cj7jeep81

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I built something similar in my shop (I think there are some pics in my signature). For the ledger board (mine was a doubled up 2x12), I attached it with 3/8" structural screws (similar to these https://www.grkfasteners.com/products/structural/rss ) . I attached it with I think 5 or 6 of them at every post along the back (so every 8'), as well as with nails to the posts (to initially hold it up), and to the studs between the posts.
The front of the loft is supported by a full wall underneath, as I wanted to create a separate machine shop. 4x4 posts would be plenty strong, but make sure they are good and dry before you set them up, or they tend to twist. That's one reason I like 4x6, they just seem to resist it a bit better.
 
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b-boy

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I was on the fence with the 4x6s. I like the idea of the extra support, plus I plan on notching them, and there's more meat to work with on the 4x6 post.
 

bczygan

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I'd like as few posts as possible.

OK,

You have choices to make.

The long beam across the front of the mezzanine can rest on 2 columns, one column or it can free span the entire 30' distance wall to wall, leaving you with no obstructions.

Understand that with each column removal and span lengthening, the beam needs to become able to support more load and thus becomes deeper (Taller), thus restricting your total available height.

The first suggestion I will make, is to use a double LVL beam here.

So let's work from the use and load in the mezzanine. Since this is so short a space, it isn't considered habitable. So you can set the live load at whatever is reasonable. A living space would have a 40#/SF live load, but we can set it at 30# or even #25. Let's try 25# LL and 10# DL (Dead load is the weight of the construction.

Based on that, if you span the entire 30', you will have a 105/LF (Lineal foot) total load on the beam. Using a 1.9E LVL, you will need a double 1 3/4" x 14" beam. You can hang your floor joists so the bottom of the joists are level with the bottom of the beam, and where the beam rises above the mezzanine floor level, just use it as a toe kick,

2x6 joists at 24" on center are more than adequate. Use at least 5/8" plywood decking.

Since you are building a wall around the perimeter, no supporting ledger board, used as a beam, is required. Just close off the open ends of the joists with some 2x's to give them horizontal support. Think how you will prevent things from dropping down behind the perimeter walls. Maybe continue the flooring structure into the face of the outside walls.

Another option would be to use one column in the center. Then you could use a double 1 3/4 x 7 1/4 LVL beam. I would still make it continuous and install it one piece at a time and fasten together in place. Each 30' long ply of this 2 ply beam will weigh 108#. If you don't mind the column, this is what I would do.



Bill
 
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b-boy

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Thanks. I'm fine with a few columns.

As long as I can walk under the structure I'm fine with it. I'm planning on building a few workbenches and housing a compressor under there.
 
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b-boy

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What is the best adhesive to use when doubling up a beam? I assume I want to use adhesive, clamps, and nails for a double LVL.
 

theoldwizard1

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OK,

You have choices to make.
.
.
.
Based on that, if you span the entire 30', you will have a 105/LF (Lineal foot) total load on the beam. Using a 1.9E LVL, you will need a double 1 3/4" x 14" beam.
Great write up Bill ! I wonder if the OP priced out the cost of TWO 30' 14" LVL !:lol_hitti
 

theoldwizard1

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Thanks. I'm fine with a few columns.

As long as I can walk under the structure I'm fine with it. I'm planning on building a few workbenches and housing a compressor under there.

What is the best adhesive to use when doubling up a beam? I assume I want to use adhesive, clamps, and nails for a double LVL.

If you are willing to install two 4x6 columns 10' apart you will save a HUGE amount of money by using plain 2x10 or 2x12. Bill will have to "run the numbers". Span tables do not have a "row" for 6' spacing !

When doubling 2by material, adhesive is not required with proper nailing. What is required is that both pieces of wood rest on a column. For added strength, do NOT overlap joint !
 
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b-boy

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Yes I did price them out. Wow. More than I was expecting. I have some math to do. :bounce:
 
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b-boy

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I completed this build a month ago.

I ended up going with a double 2x10 beam. I used lots and lots of nails, a few screws and some through bolts to put it together. I used some construction adhesive as well.

I ended up using 4x6 posts, 10 ft apart. On each end I framed the post into the wall. All seams in the beam are located over post. I used 2x8s with joist hangers 16" oc. I used 3/4" plywood for the floor.

It was a challenge getting the beam in place. I ended up using a block and tackle to hoist the entire beam at once.

It's very sturdy. There's no flex at all.
 
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