To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Painting Structural Plywood Help

dirtrunner0519

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
399
All,

I am putting up structural plywood for the shear wall in my garage. However, instead of putting drywall on top, I wanted to simply paint the plywood.

I understand it will not be near the finish level of drywall. However i simply do not have the money nor time for dry walling over 2500sf of wall/ceiling.

Can any one recommend the steps or specific paints that will work the best. I have searched all over but it is all about paint grade plywood.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

K'ledgeBldr

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
1,925
Location
Johns Creek, GA
If the intent is to just put paint on it for reflective lighting- you can just spray it with latex paint and call it a day.

If it's going to be exposed/somewhat exposed to the elements then I'd use an oil-based primer sealer. Then use an exterior grade latex paint.

You apparently understand that this will not be a level 4 finish- it wouldn't make level "0"; but I digress!- but it should certainly make for a better looking wall.
 

KenC

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2,594
Location
oklahoma
Skim coat the plywood with drywall mud. Sand and paint with any good grade paint.

It'll look far better than you expect.
 

Colin Len

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2013
Messages
1,233
Location
Long Beach CA
Skim coat the plywood with drywall mud. Sand and paint with any good grade paint.

It'll look far better than you expect.
I'm terrible with mud and hate sanding so for me that sounds like a lot of work. For someone more experienced it would be cake. For me, I'd mix some really, really thin mud and apply it to the wall with a long nap paint roller. It'll fill/seal some cracks and low spots as well as provide a uniform texture. I did this over the drywall in my garage which was previously installed but no texture or finish applied. It was quick, easy and pretty fool proof. I just painted over it once it was dry.
 

KenC

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2,594
Location
oklahoma
I'm terrible with mud and hate sanding so for me that sounds like a lot of work. For someone more experienced it would be cake. For me, I'd mix some really, really thin mud and apply it to the wall with a long nap paint roller. It'll fill/seal some cracks and low spots as well as provide a uniform texture. I did this over the drywall in my garage which was previously installed but no texture or finish applied. It was quick, easy and pretty fool proof. I just painted over it once it was dry.

Actually in this type of job, using a roller with really thin mud would work fine. The scrape the excess with the widest knife you can handle. Should require very little sanding. And, you can always rent a drywall sander. the Porter-Cable attached to a vac works slick.
 
OP
D

dirtrunner0519

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
399
Ken C, did not think about skimming it with mud.

Would i do a hot mud or just something thin like a 5 minute bag mix? What would i use a 3/8" nap roller?
 

KenC

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2,594
Location
oklahoma
I wouldn't use hot mud, unless it was a really slow one. Mixing a large batch always makes me have to throw some out. I'm slow. And, it sands much harder than the readymix stuff. Yeah, a 3/8 or 1/2 would be good, depends on how rough the ply wood is.
 

K'ledgeBldr

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
1,925
Location
Johns Creek, GA
Rolling a thin syrupy coat of drywall compound on bare plywood is probably the worst thing you can do. The plywood will **** the moisture out of the compound so fast it won't have the properties to adhere correctly.

If you were to prime/seal it first, then it might adhere well. But, if you're going to have to prime/seal- why not just put paint on it and call it a day?- as I mentioned before.
 

Colin Len

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2013
Messages
1,233
Location
Long Beach CA
Rolling a thin syrupy coat of drywall compound on bare plywood is probably the worst thing you can do. The plywood will **** the moisture out of the compound so fast it won't have the properties to adhere correctly.
Sorry, I didn't make that clear. I would prime and caulk all the main seams between sheets THEN apply the mud.
 
OP
D

dirtrunner0519

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
399
Not using OSB. I will shoot some Latex on it, and maybe do the roller idea. I will test a panel first to see what it looks like.

Thank you for all the advice.
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,081
Location
Northern Central Ohio
If the intent is to just put paint on it for reflective lighting- you can just spray it with latex paint and call it a day.

If it's going to be exposed/somewhat exposed to the elements then I'd use an oil-based primer sealer. Then use an exterior grade latex paint.

I'd probably do the oil based primer ( I like Kilz) with two coats and follow that with the exterior grade latex paint which seems to be more durable and easier to clean off.
 

PhysicsDude

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2013
Messages
805
Location
Dallas, TX
I used regular plywood for my garage walls. I put cheap caulk on the seams and filled the large holes and knots with caulk, but otherwise didn't really "smooth it out" much.

2 layers of Killz II and 2 layers of latex paint. I'm happy with it. I included some close-up shots so you can see what the texture looks like. It took me 2 tries to get a good stripe, there's a trick to getting a clean stripe on uneven texture.

I contemplated doing a skim coat of drywall mud on my walls, but I was concerned that it would be A LOT of work sanding it to get it to look decent, and that it would crack if you were to hit the walls.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20170122_140626.jpg
    IMG_20170122_140626.jpg
    140.4 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_20170125_001220.jpg
    IMG_20170125_001220.jpg
    117.4 KB · Views: 70
  • IMG_20170215_171127.jpg
    IMG_20170215_171127.jpg
    117.8 KB · Views: 77
  • IMG_20170215_175102.jpg
    IMG_20170215_175102.jpg
    87.4 KB · Views: 89
  • IMG_20170216_093943.jpg
    IMG_20170216_093943.jpg
    41.9 KB · Views: 84
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

M_George

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Messages
966
Location
Eastern Pa.
I used regular plywood for my garage walls. I put cheap caulk on the seams and filled the large holes and knots with caulk, but otherwise didn't really "smooth it out" much.

2 layers of Killz II and 2 layers of latex paint. I'm happy with it. I included some close-up shots so you can see what the texture looks like. It took me 2 tries to get a good stripe, there's a trick to getting a clean stripe on uneven texture.

I contemplated doing a skim coat of drywall mud on my walls, but I was concerned that it would be A LOT of work sanding it to get it to look decent, and that it would crack if you were to hit the walls.

Very nice job. I actually like the texture, after all it's a man cave.
 

Locker537

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Messages
488
Location
Massachusetts
PhysicsDude - any concerns with not meeting fire code?

I have a garage that I would like to do the interior with plywood to make it easier to hang stuff on the walls, but I'm unsure if I'm comfortable with plywood as a fire retardant.
 
OP
D

dirtrunner0519

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
399
PhysicsDude - any concerns with not meeting fire code?

I have a garage that I would like to do the interior with plywood to make it easier to hang stuff on the walls, but I'm unsure if I'm comfortable with plywood as a fire retardant.


Is this for a new Garage?
 

Locker537

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Messages
488
Location
Massachusetts
Is this for a new Garage?

No, an attached two car garage built in 1980.

The garage currently has fiberglass-free thermal and sound control insulation between the studs, and then plastic sheeting over the entire wall.

I'd like to finish the interior and hang cabinets and shelves to gain some more storage.

Thoughts on a interior sheathing and finishing material?
 
Last edited:

Rock knocker

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
704
That is you're 1hr fire rated wall, not the plastic on the inside.

No. The garage is now an unrated structure, was built that way and there is no legal or code reason to change the assembly rating.

Putting plywood up would not change the fire rating, and is allowed because you are not changing the use or occupancy of that structure.
 

Locker537

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Messages
488
Location
Massachusetts
No. The garage is now an unrated structure, was built that way and there is no legal or code reason to change the assembly rating.

Putting plywood up would not change the fire rating, and is allowed because you are not changing the use or occupancy of that structure.

Sorry if I sidetracked this thread...

From that, I can hang plywood without concern of violating code, but is there a better alternative from a convenience, cost, or safety perspective?
 

Rock knocker

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
704
Plywood or OSB is more expensive than drywall, but they are easier to handle and hang. Wood products are also better for attaching shelves and the like, although for heavy items you'll still want to hit the studs.
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,081
Location
Northern Central Ohio
PhysicsDude - any concerns with not meeting fire code?

I have a garage that I would like to do the interior with plywood to make it easier to hang stuff on the walls, but I'm unsure if I'm comfortable with plywood as a fire retardant.

The adjoining wall should be drywalled. Even though I don't care for drywall in a garage I would urge to do the adjoining wall with it.

If you still want plywood, cover the drywall with plywood, which will give you both.
 
OP
D

dirtrunner0519

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
399
Plywood material cost may be more expensive then drywall. However the actual labor to get a high level finish with 14' ceilings and 120LF of wall is quite expensive. My walls also have to be shear wall, thus the plywood.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom