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Thoughts on open space versus support posts

kyle242gt

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Jan 5, 2010
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Norcal
Hi all -

My project is an addition to our existing garage, at an angle to match the lot line. It's 36' in front, about 52' in back, 22' deep, 10' walls. It will keep the same roofline as the existing garage, so will be built below grade to get more headroom. One 16' door to store two finished cars, and one 10' door with a lift. The lift bay, and the bonus space to its right, will be my workshop area.

A 10' ceiling is not enough headroom for the lift, so I plan on a beam ceiling over the lift to gain a couple feet.

Working with my draftsman, the issue came up of support posts versus beams.

I can either put in two 22' beams to support the ridge beam, or I can do floor-to-ridgeline posts. I initially said "Hell NO! I want the space open!". Of course, then the issue of cost came up, and I figured I better reconsider.

Since the lift (a two post being retired by a buddy's shop) will have two big *** posts, what's the harm in having a couple of 4x4/6x6 (whatever) right next to them?

Attached image shows the proposed post locations, more or less.

Many thanks for any thoughts on this.
 

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blkhonda1991

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i agree with briggs...trusses or bust if you dont want or need attic space only part that might present a problem in that case is the angled connection area
 

little d

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+1 on the trusses. they even have "vaulted, and cathedral" trusses that would open up the ceiling hight. ya might not have to have the addition on another level.
 

boiler7904

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Spend the money for beams or trusses but don't waste your time / money on interior columns. Besides being a limiting factor as to what you can do with the space, columns in a wide open space are targets waiting to be hit. It's not a question of if, it's when and how badly.

I'd also look at doing an 8'-0" x 7'-0" section door in the back corner to replace the pair of hinged 4'-0" x 7'-0" doors. You'll have problems with hinges and the doors sagging over time unless you use good commercial hardware. It wouldn't have to be on an operator initially but I'd do the rough wiring / receptacle for it up front.
 
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kyle242gt

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Thanks guys. Am I understanding right that you think I can support the ridge beam over a 7' opening with the trusses on either end and no additional support/bracing? Scissor trusses are an option too, which I hadn't considered, but they'll eat into headroom a bit.

The existing construction is 8' ceilings, no way I can match that (and keep lift headroom) even with beam/scissor truss. Doing the project down a step gains interior storage and saves on grading costs too.

I'd sure love attic space, but with a really low hip roof, it's not a big loss anyway.

Thanks for the tip on the doors, boiler - I added the back door as a "everyone says to put one in" versus "I'm going to use it often". It's a 2' drop from that door down, so I'll likely use it a couple times a year for firewood and otherwise leave it closed up tight. I can look into the cost either way though.

I also appreciate the advice on "it's not if but when".:thumbup:
 

akdiesel

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Wasilla, AK
The only benifit I can see of having a support post is if you are planning on a crane of somesort (bridge crane). This can have some good pros and cons. If you do go with supports try to use metal beams if possible instead of wood. This can give you abilltiy to expand your needs if you choose to later on.
 

blkhonda1991

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Thanks guys. Am I understanding right that you think I can support the ridge beam over a 7' opening with the trusses on either end and no additional support/bracing?

im confused by this. if you do trusses there is no ridge beam, are you talking about the header over the door?
 
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kyle242gt

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Norcal
Hi ak, funny you should mention a crane, my builder was wondering the same thing. But No, not planning on any heavy lifting.

blk, the roof will be trussed for most of it. The area over the lift will be open/vaulted/cathedral whatever.... My builder said that a double set of trusses on each end of the open section would be enough to support the ridge beam.
 

kartracer23

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New Castle, IN
I've got a post in the center of my garage. I also have parking blocks. Why? Because I have to position my truck just right so I can open the passenger side doors. It's pretty close-can't be too far back, and can't go too far forward. I've got about 6 inches to the obstructions in the front of the garage - and if I was to park so I could open the door 'behind' the post, the bumper would stick out and I wouldn't be able to close the garage door. Now, my last car, it wasn't an issue. This one is. All that to say that your positioning may not cause problems with one car, but another car, it might. For that alone, I'd avoid posts if possible.
 
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