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My 26'x40' with attic.

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skeletonizer

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Sep 25, 2008
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Michigan
Good work man, looks like you have a great space there. I don't know about all the Mopar stuff, but I guess if you really like under performing cars that break all the time that's your right :confused::headscrat















Just messin with you bro, I'm a car lover, I don't care what it says on the emblem.:beer::lol_hitti


Thanks man. I am a fan of many cars too. I like the Mopar stuff mostly 'cuz it's what I grew up around. That and all the Mustang and Chevy guys are more fun to pick on. They seem to be a little less secure with their own masculinity (or lack of it). :lol_hitti
 
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PistolWhip

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People's Republic of New Jersey
That and all the Mustang and Chevy guys are more fun to pick on. They seem to be a little less secure with their own masculinity (or lack of it). :lol_hitti

Awwww now that's a low blow, LOL :bounce:

BUUUUUTTTTT, I have a handfull of these and get 20 MPG highway to boot....:beer: :pimpflash

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skeletonizer

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Nice time.

I am still stock. (6.1 Hemi) I have a few bolt ons still lying on the shelf and when the shop is done I will be working on the car. My best is 13.3 @ 103ish @ Milan. I think I ran 13.5 @ National Trail if I recall correctly. Both were $hitty hot and humid days.

I can't complain since my curb is about 4400 lbs. Drag radials and a tune alone should get me into the 12's.

You must have a cage? How is that to live with?
 

cyclopsblown34

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Jan 26, 2007
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597
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Russellville, Missouri
What does MOPAR really stand for? I always heard My Ol Pig Ain't Running. If our plebian Durango AWD is an indication of what a regular 360 can do, I can just imagine what a hemi will do.
 

PistolWhip

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That was a hot July evening also. I ran that at Atco which is a very well prepped track and is usually considdered a "fast" track. I think if I really pushed the car, I could get it into the 10.50's on a cooler day. I don't power shift because I still have the stock clutch and I really don't launch as hard as I could because I have an IRS that really don't want to break, but I think I can get the 60' times into the 1.5x's with what I have to work with right now.

That's a dam respectable time for a car that heavy. My car is about 4000 lbs. with me in it, so if you considder every 100 pounds is worth a .10 at the trap, you'd be knocking on the door of 12's if you could lose some weight in the car.

I don't have a cage at this point, but if I keep getting faster I will absolutely need to get one. At this point, my car is more of a street car than anything else, so I've been trying to put off a cage as long as possible. It is a bit nerve racking though running traps speeds around 130 with no protection. I don't make it to the track very often, but I think next season I'm going to look into getting a 6 point with removable door bars. That way I can leave them out and just put them in when I go to the track. I don't use the back seat in my car and am actually pondering taking it out anyway, so I don't really care how hard it is to get back there. I just don't want to deal with having to climb over it myself when I want to go out for a cruise.
 
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cyclopsblown34

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Once we bought the Durango, I got grief about the acronym. I know our Durango runs like a striped a55 ape in spite of being a heavy AWD with all the options. If I could get the hemi in the old style body like our 2002, I'd probably get rid of my suburban.
 
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skeletonizer

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I'm starting to second guess my color choice for the cabinets. My wife thinks I should have use black and I'm starting to think so too. Since I'm this far I will just put the steel on a few and get a feel for the finished product. I have a full gallon of black so I may change them before the end.

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I hate painting but it is one of the few jobs that you can undertake while safely consuming a large number of cheap canned beerz and listening to AC/DC at high volume.

Beerz... GOOD!

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Thinkkker

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Jul 15, 2008
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I do that on:
Sweeping
Sorting tools
Looking for tools
Fixing the lawn mower
Mowing the lawn *push mower*
Wiring a car
Installing a cage
Dropping in a engine
Mounting a seat
Making custom transmission mounts

Just whatever
 

T>D>C

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Mar 23, 2008
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Very nice but I have 2 questions - What is all that white stuff outside and what's an "inspector"? Love your color scheme. We have a bunch of Chrysler (Jeep mostly) around our place.

T>D>C in TX
 
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skeletonizer

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Very nice but I have 2 questions - What is all that white stuff outside and what's an "inspector"? Love your color scheme. We have a bunch of Chrysler (Jeep mostly) around our place.

T>D>C in TX

That white stuff is kryptonite, it ***** the life out of me.

My co-workers and I are very popular with the building inspectors in this county right now and not in a good way. I have had to be extra careful. I have seen two of them drive by on Sundays on several occasions and I know that they both live more than 10 miles from my place.

It's best if I don't elaborate further, yes it is that silly. :wtf:
 
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skeletonizer

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Some slow progress. Still no heat and no steel for the cabinets or to cover the block.

Got a air hose reel as my first Craftsman Club purchase.

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Apparently people like to stand on cord reels? :headscrat

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The bracket was not made straight so of course it had to be taken down and remounted.

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The plan is to run hard line to the work bench and have a regulator, filter, etc. here. For now I just stubbed it through the wall with the feeder hose that came with the reel.

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Using my Christmas present for now. Intend to go bigger in the future. This thing moves some pretty good air though.

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These are the two road boxes that I had my hand tools in till now. I have a rain check for the 13 drawer Harbor Freight box and should have it next week so I got everything out and wiped them down. The HF box is going where the old wooden bench is in the last pic in this post. I am going to build or buy a steel work bench for where the maple and stainless rolling cabinet is now.

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I made the counter tops out of construction grade 2x8's. I cut off the radius with a table saw and doweled them together. They are stained with used motor oil from a Ford deisel :bounce: it matches the recovered lumber from the old building that I am using for trim exactly.
 
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skeletonizer

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Michigan
Next steps will be covering the cabinet doors with steel and putting up the under cabinet lights.

Toe kick.

Cover the pink insulation on the block with steel.

Get/build a work bench.

Air line to the work bench.

Work light reel. Still shopping for a decent one at a good price.

Paint the fridge. Probly like the cabinets with galvanized steel panels.

Maybe paint the floor. I have dreams of getting a welder and plasma cutter so I might not.
 

NWOhioChevyGuy

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Feb 20, 2007
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Location
Buckeye Hill (Morenci, MI)
Great space, I am going to be building a 28'x40' this spring and the extra 2' and going to 10/12 roof trusses gives a ton of extra room upstairs. My upstairs will be 14' x 40' with 7 1/2' of full ceiling height in the middle, side walls will be 5'3". Mine will be attached so entry to bonus room will be from house's second story no stairs to take up space in the garage.

Hope to get into mine by next year when the snow flies here in MI, been scraping that white stuff off my truck every winter since i started driving, 22 years ago.
 
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skeletonizer

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Great space, I am going to be building a 28'x40' this spring and the extra 2' and going to 10/12 roof trusses gives a ton of extra room upstairs. My upstairs will be 14' x 40' with 7 1/2' of full ceiling height in the middle, side walls will be 5'3". Mine will be attached so entry to bonus room will be from house's second story no stairs to take up space in the garage.

Hope to get into mine by next year when the snow flies here in MI, been scraping that white stuff off my truck every winter since i started driving, 22 years ago.

That will be a great space in the bonus room.

We kicked around the idea of doing that very thing here but the layout of the house and how it sits on the lot just didn't lend itself to that. I would have had more than $10,000 into utilities rerouting and drive way work and my buget for the building itself would have been wrecked.


Radiant floor heat tubing there? Very nice! I'm jealous....

No need to be jealous as they aren't doing me any good empty. It's about 45 in there today. :wtf:

Maybe next winter I will have it up an running and you can envy me then. :bounce:
 
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skeletonizer

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The bolts on the doors are just self tappers. I got a 1/2 a five gallon pail of them from my garage door guy for "free".

The steel is just duct steel with a 1/2" hem all around.

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gcan

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Dec 30, 2006
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Alabama
got more pics of the attic?

I did similar but put the attic access steps inside the garage and am thinking about changing...mine's 26x26 and the steps take a lot of room in the garage
 
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skeletonizer

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got more pics of the attic?

I did similar but put the attic access steps inside the garage and am thinking about changing...mine's 26x26 and the steps take a lot of room in the garage

I'll snap some the next time. It's just an unfinished attic full of junk though. 12'x40' seems like a lot but with no organizing at all it fills up quick.
 

gcan

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Dec 30, 2006
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Alabama
great thanks!

is it finished? do you plan to just use it for storage? are you glad you have the access outside? I thought I wanted mine inside but after building find I actually don't go upstairs much at all
 
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skeletonizer

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Got a new laptop finally. No shop would be complete without a little pegboard. :p

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Box is getting filled up.

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Nut drivers... yes quite often actually. :thumbup:

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Aspen RT

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Jan 4, 2011
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kansas
Great looking garage skeletonizer, really cool idea on the cabinet fronts, but my favorite.............The big Mopar you painted on the wall, how did you get it to turn out so good? I would hate to think what mine would turn out like if I tried that. :wtf:
 

hwinch5

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Nov 12, 2010
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Location
Hamden, CT
Great job & very impressed w/ your skillful planning and amazing transformation! Just wondering what caused original garage to crack and require re-building? All the tips and pixs are the reason why I joined the GJ. Keep up the great work. Now my garage is calling!!
 
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skeletonizer

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Michigan
Got the heat put together finally. My cousin is a tin knocker and has done a couple of these so I recruited him to help. I scrounged most of the parts over three years so putting a total cost for the system would be impossible. I have about $400 into it in new stuff including the water heater. I had (have) a nearly new used LP heater but needed a gas model and had to spring for one. I'll just keep the LP for the hunting camp. The expansion tank is oversized (i.e. $0) I plumbed it to the purge vent with some fittings so I could swing it back out of the way a bit as the room is pretty small (5'x5').

It had been about 10*f for a week prior so it took (36,000 BTU) about a 12 hour burn to heat the slab and building up to my desired 55*.

It hardly ever runs now to keep it at 55. Apparently my wife insulated it fairly well. :thumbup:

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Got these three small parts organizers from HD marked down to $12. They are portable and mountable which might come in handy.

I still have plans to build a rack that will hold plastic coffee cans for larger nuts and bolts.

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New calendar for 2012, the wife gets me one every year and it is always something unexpected LOL.

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esburger

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Feb 10, 2012
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MI
I see in the first couple pics of this post you where hanging plastic before you put the OSB up on the ceiling. I just recently hung 1/2 inch OSB on my ceiling but did not do the plastic. Is this going to hurt me? I plan on blowing in cellulose insulation. its a 30 x 40 pole barn, and I live in Michigan. I plan on putting enough heat in there just to knock the chill out when I am out there working. Also, which side of the OSB was exposed that you painted? I have the smooth side exposed on my ceiling. Hopefully it is paintable. Your building looks great. A lot of great ideas. Thanks for any info!!
 
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skeletonizer

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I see in the first couple pics of this post you where hanging plastic before you put the OSB up on the ceiling. I just recently hung 1/2 inch OSB on my ceiling but did not do the plastic. Is this going to hurt me? I plan on blowing in cellulose insulation. its a 30 x 40 pole barn, and I live in Michigan. I plan on putting enough heat in there just to knock the chill out when I am out there working. Also, which side of the OSB was exposed that you painted? I have the smooth side exposed on my ceiling. Hopefully it is paintable. Your building looks great. A lot of great ideas. Thanks for any info!!

I have been told (and have read) that you should have a vapor barrier between your heated space and the insulation. This is why rolled and batt insulation generally has a paper on one side. I assume it is to prevent a build up of condensation within the insulation.

I have the smooth side facing in and painted. One coat of Kilz latex primer then paint.
 

Dick in Wisconsin

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Mar 3, 2012
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Shawano, Wisconsin
Questions:

1. Why did you go two blocks high before you started the stud walls? Protect walls from water? Keep animals out?

2. No sheet rock. Why? Not required? OSB more durable than sheet rock?

3. KILZ paint. What did that do for you?

Thanks!
 

thrifty bill

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Jan 12, 2011
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490
Location
The Mountains of North Carolina
Nice build! I am just starting the planning process, I am looking to build something about 30 x 40. The size is really arbitrary, its just what I have come up with so far. Like yours, I want an attic for storage, so I plan to use attic trusses. While I want an attic, I want to keep the slope of the roof to a minimum, just enough to get a decent storage attic, but not enough to look really weird versus the house.

What slope is your roof?

How did you handle truss spacing where you have the stairs?

Mine has to be attached to the house, or I can't build anything (stupid city codes).

I plan to eventually go with radiant heat as well. The initial structure is going to be "basic", a barn. Then I will finish it out later. Or so is the plan....

Insulation is probably going to be at the ceiling, as I do not need to heat the storage attic.


+1 I am a big fan of KILZ paint, I use it pretty much exclusively as a primer. Note, I used the oil based KILZ last week, and if odor bothers you, do not use it. After painting two rooms (ceilings and walls) with this stuff, I has basically intoxicated just from the fumes. I am rehabbing a 1934 duplex, and some areas really need it. I will limit using it in the future to really bad areas (like the bathroom) and areas with great ventilation.


TIA!
 
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skeletonizer

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Michigan
Questions:

1. Why did you go two blocks high before you started the stud walls? Protect walls from water? Keep animals out?

2. No sheet rock. Why? Not required? OSB more durable than sheet rock?

3. KILZ paint. What did that do for you?

Thanks!

Sorry I missed these posts! :(

1. Water and also to gain extra height while still only using a pre cut stud and not having to cut the OSB.

2. Not required. More durable.

3. I have read that the ink used to mark OSB will bleed through paint. Thought better safe than sorry.
 
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skeletonizer

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How do you like the liftmaster torsion bar openers?

Love them. Super quiet, easy to adjust open height. I only have them open enough to get the cars in and out to save some heat in the winter. Yet when I need the full 8' I manually run them all the way up.
 
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