Flush mount lift with new cement

[Subisti]

Hi, I will soon be taking over a 30 x40 pole barn and the first order of business will be cementing it. I am planning on installing a inground scissor lift and was wondering which order of things would be best/ easiest before the pour?

I have read through the other threads about flush scissor lifts but they always have existing cement. Is there a way to have the lift holes and lines run before the pour? Or is this asking for trouble?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated

 

[dfiler2]

Given the choice, I'm sure all of those folks would have preferred to do it first.

 

[carnutdallas]

Build and pour the form properly and do when you are doing the floor. The only way to go and you will love the ability to drive overs flush lift [emoji41]


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[ConCretin]

I'd definitely build in the lift as I went rather than cutting it in later. Run electrical conduit (bigger than you think you need) to pull in wire, hose, etc. after the completion. I'd place oversized pads for the bottom of the recesses first and then form up the sides and have the slab haunch down onto the pads. This is a lot easier and more accurate than trying to hang forms and do it all in one pour. Good luck with your project!

 

[JohnK007]

Also, think of putting in a drain for any snow melt and such if you live in an area where that's a concern.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Once you start the lift install, please start a thread with photos.

30x40 is a nice size shop. Have you thought about putting a 2 post lift in it instead?

Chris

 

[npmako]

I recently incorporated both a rotary two post in ground as well as the Atlas flush mount into my new pour. The two post is far easier to get right, but if you’re forming scissor lift pits make sure you get the bottoms really flat while finishing. I spent a day grinding to make up for my screw up.

 

[jtbinvalrico]

Make sure your contractor appreciates the non-negotiable importance of 1) Fit. Doesn’t matter how nice they look. An inch can blow the whole install and render the pit useless. 2) Pipe size. Go big and see it for yourself. There’s an unfortunate trend here with guys counting on a contractor to get it right and being disappointed. 3) Get it in writing. If you don’t spec 3” or 4” pipe, some putz will put 1” or 2” in there because it’s what’s on the truck and it’s time for lunch. Same for the final dimensions of the pit. Properly sized forms won’t mean squat if they bow in and result in pits that won’t accept the platforms.


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[Subisti]

Thanks for all the input. The ceiling is only 10ft so flush mount seems like the better way. Also I have a motorcycle so I'm hoping to use the lift for that as well.

I will have a drain in the middle of the shop. I'm assuming the lift pit will be lower than the drain so I'm not sure how I can incorporate a drain from the pit to the floor drain.

 

[npmako]

Thanks for all the input. The ceiling is only 10ft so flush mount seems like the better way. Also I have a motorcycle so I'm hoping to use the lift for that as well.

I will have a drain in the middle of the shop. I'm assuming the lift pit will be lower than the drain so I'm not sure how I can incorporate a drain from the pit to the floor drain.

I dug a sump between my lifts using a 12" plastic pipe (with holes/perforations drilled to catch water under the slab) as the casing. The drains in the scissor lift pits flow into the sump and are pumped out with the shop floor drains. I'll try to get some pictures.

 

[vrinner]

I'd definitely build in the lift as I went rather than cutting it in later. Run electrical conduit (bigger than you think you need) to pull in wire, hose, etc. after the completion. I'd place oversized pads for the bottom of the recesses first and then form up the sides and have the slab haunch down onto the pads. This is a lot easier and more accurate than trying to hang forms and do it all in one pour. Good luck with your project!

I'm doing the same thing but have a question just so I understand the technical speak...

Oversized pads for the bottom of the recesses first...your saying if the manual calls for 4" make it 6" (or whatever the size is).

...and then form up the sides and have the slab haunch down onto the pads. Your saying pour the pads first...as in a day or so before or just have them pour that part and level/finish then pour on the rest of the slab the same day?

Sorry...I'm not a concrete guy.

 

[Radix2]

I'm doing the same thing but have a question just so I understand the technical speak...

Oversized pads for the bottom of the recesses first...your saying if the manual calls for 4" make it 6" (or whatever the size is).

...and then form up the sides and have the slab haunch down onto the pads. Your saying pour the pads first...as in a day or so before or just have them pour that part and level/finish then pour on the rest of the slab the same day?

Sorry...I'm not a concrete guy.

I'm going to take a crack at it and then we will see what LLW says...

Oversized pad - a pad in the hole big enough that you can pour the sides down onto - if you need a 3x8 pit, Make it say 4.5x9.5 ... not thicker. pour this first.

Now build your form for the hole ( basically a strong box with the proper outside dimensions as you want the inside dimensions of the pit to be) - it sits on your oversized pads). You either mark your final floor height on the sides of the box or build it to the exact height to screed to.

When you pour your floor, the concrete will flow down the sides of the hole around the form down to the pad and create the sides of your pit. The size of the hole in the ground vs your form is the thickness of the sides of the pit. The type of ground you have may make this type of one sided formwork tricky if it won't hold shape well?

That is my take, and how we formed an access pit on my project- good question though, let see what the master says...

 

[ConCretin]

I'm going to take a crack at it and then we will see what LLW says...

Oversized pad - a pad in the hole big enough that you can pour the sides down onto - if you need a 3x8 pit, Make it say 4.5x9.5 ... not thicker. pour this first.

Now build your form for the hole ( basically a strong box with the proper outside dimensions as you want the inside dimensions of the pit to be) - it sits on your oversized pads). You either mark your final floor height on the sides of the box or build it to the exact height to screed to.

When you pour your floor, the concrete will flow down the sides of the hole around the form down to the pad and create the sides of your pit. The size of the hole in the ground vs your form is the thickness of the sides of the pit. The type of ground you have may make this type of one sided formwork tricky if it won't hold shape well?

That is my take, and how we formed an access pit on my project- good question though, let see what the master says...

Couldn't have said it better myself.

 

[vrinner]

I'm going to take a crack at it and then we will see what LLW says...

Oversized pad - a pad in the hole big enough that you can pour the sides down onto - if you need a 3x8 pit, Make it say 4.5x9.5 ... not thicker. pour this first.

Great reply...thanks.

So this first part should be done days or week before the flooring is done? Would you also add rebar sticking out of the pad for the main floor to tie into?

 

[ard]

I will have a drain in the middle of the shop. I'm assuming the lift pit will be lower than the drain so I'm not sure how I can incorporate a drain from the pit to the floor drain.

Two drains. One 'in the middle'. One 'in the pit'

They tie together at a point that is lower than the pit.

Then that runs out to wherever it drains to...

 

[homebuilt burner]

Somebody on here used one large pit with a metal platform in the middle. I thought that was a good idea. Easier to pour/form and easier to work on later.