High Lift Garage Door DIY

[64coupedeluxe]

Hi Guys,

I'm wanting to high lift my garage doors, actually have them follow the roof line. I'm doing this with extension spring doors.

I notice via googling today that this is usually done by adding a section of the horizontal track(that you cut off) between the vertical track and the start of the radius bend track.

I also noticed that the tracks angle out bottom to top going vertically against the door frame.

Is this angle the reason you can't just raise the tracks up and add the section you cut from the horizontal tracks to the lower section of the vertical track? As in at the very bottom.

I'm thinking yes as I installed a new door and track from craigsl!st and had raised it roughly 8" and the door binds without some shims under the track brackets. I plan to raise it higher than the 8", that was just done to see how it looked/worked.

I originally thought it could just be that the trim was installed to suit the original doors and need to replace that trim anyway.

Also is there a set minimum distance I need to keep the track from the ceiling?

Thanks.

 

[firworks]

Think outside the box. Mine opens to the outside. Makes a nice canopy too.

I've been wanting to convert to an open out door. My garage is so tiny as is any additional volume inside would make a big difference. They seem pretty rare though. I always wonder if there's some hidden downside to them that prevents more people from going with them.

 

[86turbodsl]

I'm using a hanger style bifold door on my shop to eliminate the tracks. Expensive though.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Changing to high lift with extension springs will not be easy. You are asking the springs to balance the door when closed, and then hold one section vertical and the others semi vertical when open. The original design held the door 95% flat when opened. With torsion springs the drums on a high lift are different than normal lift. The springs rate is also different. And most will use stop springs at the end of the travel for the door to rest against in the open position. I do not see a way to change the mechanical advantage of the springs when using extension. Change it over to torsion and you are good to go.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

The major reason for few outward opening sectional doors is they are not secure. A few seconds with a cordless impact and the door is off to the side. Plus all the hardware is exposed to the elements. Might work in a low crime section of the Arizona desert but not practical in most locations.

 

[LB-1911]

Hi Guys,

I'm wanting to high lift my garage doors, actually have them follow the roof line. I'm doing this with extension spring doors.

I notice via googling today that this is usually done by adding a section of the horizontal track(that you cut off) between the vertical track and the start of the radius bend track.

I also noticed that the tracks angle out bottom to top going vertically against the door frame.

Is this angle the reason you can't just raise the tracks up and add the section you cut from the horizontal tracks to the lower section of the vertical track? As in at the very bottom.

I'm thinking yes as I installed a new door and track from craigsl!st and had raised it roughly 8" and the door binds without some shims under the track brackets. I plan to raise it higher than the 8", that was just done to see how it looked/worked.

I originally thought it could just be that the trim was installed to suit the original doors and need to replace that trim anyway.

Also is there a set minimum distance I need to keep the track from the ceiling?

Thanks.

You may already be aware of this site -

Garage Door High Lift & Vertical Lift Inquiry

High Lift Garage Door Conversion

 

[64coupedeluxe]

Changing to high lift with extension springs will not be easy. You are asking the springs to balance the door when closed, and then hold one section vertical and the others semi vertical when open. The original design held the door 95% flat when opened. With torsion springs the drums on a high lift are different than normal lift. The springs rate is also different. And most will use stop springs at the end of the travel for the door to rest against in the open position. I do not see a way to change the mechanical advantage of the springs when using extension. Change it over to torsion and you are good to go.

If it's a straight high lift in that the door will be horizontal when open then I would assume just by adjusting the spring tension that it will still work the same? As when I had lifted it the 8" it worked fine.

I see what you are saying if I have it follow the ceiling and that the door will then be open and at an angle. Not sure if it matters but when open the whole door would be at the same angle, not part vertical /vertical and I assumed I could just adjust the springs to suit.

Right now I don't want to change it to torsion so if I can't have it follow the roof line I'll just do a normal high lift.

 

[64coupedeluxe]

You may already be aware of this site -

Garage Door High Lift & Vertical Lift Inquiry

High Lift Garage Door Conversion

Yes had seen that site. I may call them and ask if what I propose will work.

 

[64coupedeluxe]

I dropped the door track down to it's normal position. Still have some binding against the door trim in a few different places but way better than when I had it raised.

Along with the trim that is butting against the door the door opening wood needs to be replaced so I will do that plus purchase a trim/seal to allow for discrepancies.

 

[Jazzman442]

Im watching this thread. I have been wanting to do this on my 2 double car garages. I have had over 10 company's come out and tell me that they don't know what I am talking about and they don't do customer work for residential use. I laughed and told them I can get the parts cheap but I don't want to unwind and wind the springs. I would think this would be some thing that any garage door company could or want to do?

 

[ebfabman]

I've been wanting to convert to an open out door. My garage is so tiny as is any additional volume inside would make a big difference. They seem pretty rare though. I always wonder if there's some hidden downside to them that prevents more people from going with them.

Yes, they are rare. The hidden downside is you can't buy them. An outward raising door like mine is definitely a DIY thing. The tracks fold in so they are out of the way, and very secure.

 

[alexb2000]

One thing to keep in mind with bi-fold type of doors is that they are much slower to open than a normal garage door. If you have a low use door it's fine, if you come and go out of it the speed will bother most people.

 

[ace10]

Two types of high lift in my new garage.
Tracks angle away from interior wall in order for the door panels to clear the finished surface. Same for both types of tracks.

The tracks for the far door extend as high as the installers would go. These doors do not have any handles on the exterior.

 

[mrcole]

I'm getting ready to figure something out similar with my garage doors (2 10'x10' doors). I am wanting them to open up, following the interior wall and then ceiling if necessary. I have about 9ft of vertical wall above them before the ceiling. I have some belt drive openers I've purchased but I'm guessing I won't be able to use these for the application. I can post up what the garage door people come up with for a solution.

 

[kbs2244]

Mine is a from new install.
Just a 10w x 8h Coplay special order from Menards
10 feet to the ceiling slant
Just straight up and then into the slant.
I have since installed a belt drive opener with no problems.
My understanding is you need torsion springs to do it.

 

[firebirdparts]

Mine are DIY, and you can do whatever you want to with tracks, if you understand how the door actually closes (and it sounds like you do). I mean if it looks like a wheel will roll through it, then it'll work. If the door bangs into something, then you observe that and act accordingly.

The problem with extension springs is that you won't be able to balance them properly, because the apparent weight of the door will not relate to the door's position linearly (in the normal way). You can either put a catch on the door to hold it up or adjust them so that they're too tight when it's down (or both). I do both, it's not the end of the world. I'm just happy to have a shop and a lift, you know?

 

[64coupedeluxe]

Mine are DIY, and you can do whatever you want to with tracks, if you understand how the door actually closes (and it sounds like you do). I mean if it looks like a wheel will roll through it, then it'll work. If the door bangs into something, then you observe that and act accordingly.

The problem with extension springs is that you won't be able to balance them properly, because the apparent weight of the door will not relate to the door's position linearly (in the normal way). You can either put a catch on the door to hold it up or adjust them so that they're too tight when it's down (or both). I do both, it's not the end of the world. I'm just happy to have a shop and a lift, you know?

Thanks.

I figured that this would be the case but couldn't get my mind around not just being able to put more tension on the springs. I rang and talked to the guys that do the high lift kits. When he explained it in relation to the extension springs a light when off in my head.

I'm going to do it and experiment with the tension to get a happy medium of extra weight to lift when opening vs the tension to close. I will get a torsion high lift kit at some point but that will be when I buy some nice doors, no point doing it twice.

I will report back on how it turns out for future reference, though busy right now finishing off a 390Fe build.