lathe bronze bushing marred from spindle removal- can it be saved?

[hwood]

Long of the short, I shouldn't have but did, and removed the spindle since there seemed to be something causing drag. (1935 craftsman 9 inch lathe, so I'd have to have a new bearing/bushing made, or buy a bushing with the correct interior diameter and manually sand it down the exterior to fit the cast)

Well, the screw hole for the variable speed wasn't machine correctly to begin with, and the metal pressed out and caused a bump from the screw going into it.

When I was removing the spindle, I had to twist it out since it was stuck in the bronze bushing. So now the bushing(bearing) has jagged marks from me twisting the spindle to remove it. I can feel them with my finer.

I have since used oil n 1500 grit sandpaper (cheapo paper w/oil is more like 2500 grit), and I have at least smoothed the scratches/grooves, but I can still feel them. I stopped because I didn't want to sand it down causing too much play.

Think I can save the bushing? Should I keep lightly buffing till smooth? Stop here since the scratches/grooves no longer have sharp edges? Or is it necessary to buy a new one, one way or the other?

***Note this is a lathe I'm not sure how well it works, been putting a lot of cleaning and work into lately, getting it ready for the first turn. First lathe***

 

[JimNC]

Need a pic, is it a split bushing and are there shims for adjusting it?

 

[hwood]

Need a pic, is it a split bushing and are there shims for adjusting it?

Not split, I don't believe there's any adjustment for it. Here's pretty much what we're looking at. Since I've sanded, there's ever so slight play if I lift up on the spindle with some force. Little "tick" up, however the other side, which I haven't really touched, has about half the play or so, probably some of the side I've gently worked on is due to wear.

 

[PCustoms]

Those look like grooves to let the oil flow around the bushing.

 

[twertsy]

Those look like grooves to let the oil flow around the bushing.

Exactly. Those grooves are supposed to be there.

 

[Doug Arthurs]

I would agree with the above those are reliefs to allow oil flow. If the bushing is loose take some measurements. Put it back together and make a new one.

 

[hwood]

The grooves are not on the other bushing at all though. Completely smooth. Maybe in the picture of the top area they could have been there previously, but those v looking grooves I must have put in. The spindle was really caught by the screw hole being bumped n was semi sharp. Before I sanded the grooves, but after i sanded the screw hole on the spindle smooth enough to pass through the bushing, the spindle overall was a bit tight going through the bushing, but after it's now easily passing, with a tad more play than the other untouched bushing (one with no markings or grooves), if I try to pull the spindle up n push it down. Not a lot though (albeit I don't know what a lot is)

 

[hwood]

I would agree with the above those are reliefs to allow oil flow. If the bushing is loose take some measurements. Put it back together and make a new one.

Oh you mean on this lathe make a new one. You know, I was looking on Amazon, they might have a very similar one, 3/4 inner diameter, 7/8 outer, 1 1/4 length. Let's say if that worked, n I did have to replace, how would I tap them out? Is it tappeing from the side facing the tailstock inwards? What would I use? All I have for that now is punches n hammers.

 

[BFBOB]

It's a wood lathe; precision isn't much of an issue. I'd oil it up thoroughly, reassemble, spin and enjoy. I'd only replace that bushing if it's so loose it makes the workpiece chatter.

 

[hwood]

It's a wood lathe; precision isn't much of an issue. I'd oil it up thoroughly, reassemble, spin and enjoy. I'd only replace that bushing if it's so loose it makes the workpiece chatter.

Ok, was also thinking of that, n listening for chatter. Damn set screw for the belt come broke while removing it though. Can't find one online n obviously none in stores.

 

[454ragtop]

Carefully clean the burr off the spindle and put it back together and try it. It's only a wood lathe, so not as critical as a metal lathe, might be fine. Probably a std OD bushing, fairly easily replaced if necessary, but would need to be reamed to fit the spindle.

 

[ez-duzit]

...I have since used oil n 1500 grit sandpaper...

First, you should stop making things worse.

Have a machine shop run the proper size reamer through the bearing bore. They will need the spindle to determine this size.

 

[Packard V8]

Oh you mean on this lathe make a new one. You know, I was looking on Amazon, they might have a very similar one, 3/4 inner diameter, 7/8 outer, 1 1/4 length. Let's say if that worked, n I did have to replace, how would I tap them out? Is it tappeing from the side facing the tailstock inwards? What would I use? All I have for that now is punches n hammers.

Usually, when a new bronze bushing is installed, it must be reamed to ID size. If you don't have access to the correct reamer, you might not be making things better.

Suggestion: Reassemble the lathe, shim the lateral play to a minimum, lubricate and use the lathe. If you're a beginner, the lathe may be running as accurate as you are.

If you decide to replace the bushing later, you haven't harmed anything.

jack vines

 

[hwood]

Usually, when a new bronze bushing is installed, it must be reamed to ID size. If you don't have access to the correct reamer, you might not be making things better.

Suggestion: Reassemble the lathe, shim the lateral play to a minimum, lubricate and use the lathe. If you're a beginner, the lathe may be running as accurate as you are.

If you decide to replace the bushing later, you haven't harmed anything.

jack vines

there is hardly any play side to side, really not much up n down, more than the other side which I didn't touch, but not night n day or anything (very technical, I know). I realize that the sandpaper was stupid, but at least it was heavily oiled n done by finger in a circular motion w weak 1500. Probably didn't take much off in the 15 minutes I was fooling with it. How would I shim? Just to know.

Also I'd buy a the hand reamer if need be, and do it myself. Even if I frgged it up a couple times, it'd still be a lot cheaper than a shop, and I'd learn something.

 

[hwood]

Just for shts I went up to ace n tried their 3/4 inch bronze bearing. N I'll be damned if it didn't fit nearly perfect. Now the other dimensions for different, but just a 3/4 inner diameter was better than my messed up one by a little bit, n nearly as good as good as the bearing I didn't touch on the other side. That one is a bit of a tighter fit, but really not by much.

What do you think? If after I get a replacement dog point screw for the come it chatters because of the bad bearing, you think just a more round, n just a hair looser fitting than the good bearing could work?

 

[larry_g]

Also I'd buy a the hand reamer if need be, and do it myself. Even if I frgged it up a couple times, it'd still be a lot cheaper than a shop, and I'd learn something.

Just for shts I went up to ace n tried their 3/4 inch bronze bearing. N I'll be damned if it didn't fit nearly perfect. Now the other dimensions for different, but just a 3/4 inner diameter was better than my messed up one by a little bit, n nearly as good as good as the bearing I didn't touch on the other side. That one is a bit of a tighter fit, but really not by much.

What do you think? If after I get a replacement dog point screw for the come it chatters because of the bad bearing, you think just a more round, n just a hair looser fitting than the good bearing could work?

When built that headstock had the sleeve bearings pressed in and then BOTH front and rear bearings were reamed or fitted at the same time with tooling that referenced the off of the lathe bed and the same tooling also reamed the tailstock. This is so that two headstock bearings hold the spindle parallel to the bed and on the same center height as the tailstock. I would highly suggest that you run with what you have until the operation of the lathe dictates that you need a bearing replacement.

The bearing at the hardware store will fit the spindle just fine now but when you press it into the head stock it will compress and need to be fitted. Unless your prepared to fit and align everything as described above then your not going to make things better.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[hwood]

When built that headstock had the sleeve bearings pressed in and then BOTH front and rear bearings were reamed or fitted at the same time with tooling that referenced the off of the lathe bed and the same tooling also reamed the tailstock. This is so that two headstock bearings hold the spindle parallel to the bed and on the same center height as the tailstock. I would highly suggest that you run with what you have until the operation of the lathe dictates that you need a bearing replacement.

The bearing at the hardware store will fit the spindle just fine now but when you press it into the head stock it will compress and need to be fitted. Unless your prepared to fit and align everything as described above then your not going to make things better.

lg
no neat sig line

Yeah I am just asking questions and gaining some knowledge from ppl who know. I'm done f'n around haha. I also have been researching and saw that as well (what you were talking about not fitting when installed). I'm mainly doing all this for when the lathe decides to not work right, probably chatter. Then I'll have the tools and at least a base point of knowledge to take on the job. Because I got impatient and f'd it up, at least in part, and this lathe was neglected decades before I got it, so I'm just trying to soak everything in.

 

[jabberwoki]

So I`ve no idea but couldn't you remove the oil cup and install a grease ******?
You`d think the extra viscosity would make up for any imperfections in the bushing?
I did this on my old drill press and so far ( 4 years or so) it`s humming along just fine.

 

[hwood]

So I`ve no idea but couldn't you remove the oil cup and install a grease ******?
You`d think the extra viscosity would make up for any imperfections in the bushing?
I did this on my old drill press and so far ( 4 years or so) it`s humming along just fine.

Well I'm not going to remove anything, I'm still looking for a damn dog pint screw, think I'll just make a replacement for the spindle. Anyway, I hear you on the oil, what oil should I use for the lathe? Would a thicker oil help in this case n still be viable for a lathe to work right?

 

[JimNC]

Do you have a dial indicator? Measure runout and play. For your first lathe it’ll be fine to figure out if you enjoy turning wood, but if you’re off by a couple thou you’re going to have a more difficult time producing fine work. For certain types of work runout doesn’t much matter, but play in the spindle is always a problem.

Good news is that you’re learning a lot, and fast.

 

[hwood]

Do you have a dial indicator? Measure runout and play. For your first lathe it’ll be fine to figure out if you enjoy turning wood, but if you’re off by a couple thou you’re going to have a more difficult time producing fine work. For certain types of work runout doesn’t much matter, but play in the spindle is always a problem.

Good news is that you’re learning a lot, and fast.

Yeah that's what I'm figuring. I'm thinking it's off just enough to cause a bit of chatter with some pressure, so yeah, fine work will be an issue. I'll see once I get it back together. I'm going to make the dog point screw this weekend. Also no, I don't have one, but I think I'll get one now that you mentioned.