So I am fixing to put 7/16” OSB on my ceiling in my pole building. My trusses are 24” centers. The issue comes with the length of my building, it is 27’ long. I was looking at using the 4’x9’ OSB that way 3 sheets would cover the entire length. The only issue with that is the fact that the ends of the OSB wouldn’t hit a truss. I was thinking of putting the H clips used for roofing on the ends to help support it. The osb would never have any weight from above on it other than the R30 insulation batts which will also be held up by the tight fit between the trusses. Do you guys think that having the tail of the OSB ending in between the trusses rather than on a truss would be bad? Would it sag to much? If I buy 8’ sheets and cut it so it ends on a truss every time then I will have a lot of scrap. But obviously will do it if I have to. Thanks for any info.
OSB Ceiling Help
- Thread starter blair683
- Start date
Pruittx2
Well-known member
why not just run a 2x4 nailer on the poles at the end of the run?
acer66
Well-known member
I would put some cut offs or other scrap wood on top of where they meet screw the ends in there and call it a day.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I used splices in both directions on my OSB ceiling for two reasons. I did not have to hit trusses on center, and the splices between trusses in the opposite direction insured there will be no sags between panels in that direction. I had all the free 1x4 I could use from shipping crates at work. I beveled all panel edges and lined up all joints to make the ceiling look like giant ceiling panels.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
NO NO NO!
Please stop. I hope you haven't bought the OSB and painted it yet.
I highly recommend using Menards Dura-Panel. I've used it twice. Most recently in my 1000sf race shop.
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...s/dura-panel/white1558085/p-1444448673649.htm
You can have it cut to length, just be careful that the longer the panels are, the harder it is to put up. We ran it perpendicular to the 24" on center trusses. Menards sells three different thicknesses and we used the thinnest in the race shop and it worked out great even with R-38 of blown insulation on top of it.
My race shop is 42' long x 24 wide. I think the panels were 20 and 22 long (half the shop has a cathedral ceiling. Two guys put it up with ease. Both are in their 50's and had never worked with it before. They fell in love with it so much they put it in the garage of a $600K house they built a year later after showing the homeowner my shop.
I put USB on the lower 4' course of the walls (slatwall above). I primed the OSB with oil based primer and then two coats of latex over that. Way too much work!
Please stop. I hope you haven't bought the OSB and painted it yet.
I highly recommend using Menards Dura-Panel. I've used it twice. Most recently in my 1000sf race shop.
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...s/dura-panel/white1558085/p-1444448673649.htm
You can have it cut to length, just be careful that the longer the panels are, the harder it is to put up. We ran it perpendicular to the 24" on center trusses. Menards sells three different thicknesses and we used the thinnest in the race shop and it worked out great even with R-38 of blown insulation on top of it.
My race shop is 42' long x 24 wide. I think the panels were 20 and 22 long (half the shop has a cathedral ceiling. Two guys put it up with ease. Both are in their 50's and had never worked with it before. They fell in love with it so much they put it in the garage of a $600K house they built a year later after showing the homeowner my shop.
I put USB on the lower 4' course of the walls (slatwall above). I primed the OSB with oil based primer and then two coats of latex over that. Way too much work!
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That all sounds great except for what’s that durapanel cost per square foot?
scab a pc of OSB (or anything really) over the joints . span the joint by at least a foot or so on each side .
good to go
good to go
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Steel panels of that rib size can usually be had for as low as 34 cents a sq ft for seconds to around 80 cents for firsts, depending on gauge of thickness, usually either 24 or 26 gauge. One cost and labor savings is that it is prepainted and ready to install. Cost of screws is a factor.
The 30 gauge Durapanel from Menards works out to about $0.66/sqft.
The 29 gauge Pro Rib is stronger and includes a 40 year warranty for $0.73/sqft
Either one will be pre finished in glossy paint, which reflects light and saves you time and money compared to painting wood or drywall. They're also much more resistant to moisture or fire damage. And they're lighter weight/sqft than other wood or drywall which may be important if your framing isn't designed to handle a ton of weight being suspended below.
7/16ths OSB prices tend to vary a lot by location, but right now from my local box store it's about $0.33/sqft. If you're leaving it unpainted it's the obvious budget winner. But it has its drawbacks too. If you're planning on painting it, the cost difference starts to shrink pretty quickly. Just make sure that you're making an informed purchase decision.
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Falcon67
Well-known member
Have an OSB ceiling, used 4x8 sheets but as above, scab the gaps and should be good. NOTE - use construction screws or 1 5/8" deck screws. Drywall screws penetrate OSB a bit easier but the heads will pop. I considered siding boards but the cost sq/ft was high. When I built, OSB was $8/sheet. Last I looked about 2 weeks ago, it's $10 (4x8) locally.
cj7jeep81
Well-known member
I would also recommend using 4x8 sheets, and cutting it to length if you don't want to use metal. One other thing to keep in mind is the price per square foot for 4x9 is higher than 4x8 (at least it is for me). Menards currently has 4x8 for $8.86 ($0.28 a square foot), and 4x9 for $14.23 ($0.40 a square foot). So really, the cost difference won't be as much, especially once you figure in any extra materials to scab the edges.
And really, you'd have very little scrap. Instead of 3 9' pieces, you'd use 3 8' pieces and then a 3' piece. So you'd only be scrapping 1' of OSB for every 2 rows.
And really, you'd have very little scrap. Instead of 3 9' pieces, you'd use 3 8' pieces and then a 3' piece. So you'd only be scrapping 1' of OSB for every 2 rows.
tonyciambrone
Well-known member
Half my shop is Durapanel (previous owner)
Half my shop is OSB 7/16 (previous owner)
The durapanel is bright, easy to clean, sturdy and maintenance free
The roof leaked a little water in a couple of spots over the OSB
It now has- dark spots, sags, tear through near seams, gaps, waviness, etc.
I would suggest you do the steel roofing panels. I believe you can get them in whatever length you like, and overlap them at the studs or similar.
Half my shop is OSB 7/16 (previous owner)
The durapanel is bright, easy to clean, sturdy and maintenance free
The roof leaked a little water in a couple of spots over the OSB
It now has- dark spots, sags, tear through near seams, gaps, waviness, etc.
I would suggest you do the steel roofing panels. I believe you can get them in whatever length you like, and overlap them at the studs or similar.
b-boy
Well-known member
This is what I did.
If you're in Ohio, you have access to a Menard's and there's an 11% sale going right now.
When you figure price between ribbed metal and OSB, don't forget to add the cost of primer and paint. Caulk too, if you want to hide the seams. Then figure the extra labor to roll/spray the OSB.
Either way, using a drywall lift will make easier work, especially the OSB. I think most of us that have done both OSB(or plywood) and ribbed metal would vote to do the metal ceiling again.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
I priced a 38" (net of overlap 36" or 3') by 10' panel on the Menards website and it came to $20.28 and after the 11% rebate that Menards runs quite often the price before taxes is $18.05. $1.66/sf. That painted, all ready to put up.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
I agree with NUTTSGT 100%. After painting the OBS for the walls, the last thing I wanted to do was paint OSB for the ceiling. The OSB for the walls was like a sponge when I put the paint on it.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
I used the heavier Menards Pro Rib in our attached garage five years before I built the race shop. We realized that using the heavier garage panels was over kill in the garage where it isn't exposed to the weather. Hence my contractor (who was tasked with putting the stuff on the ceiling) and I decided to go with the lighter gauge panels … less expensive, lighter to install, and now after three or four years … very durable.
I've attached some pictures. The trusses are 24" on center. The contractor put up fasteners every 48" and there is NO sagging, even with R-38 insultation.
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like2wheel
Well-known member
I’m going to price the dura panel also I’ll see how it compares to OSB price wise. I do have a Menards by me. The 11% discount comes as a store gift card that you get about 8 weeks later. Don’t get me wrong it’s still a good deal but you have to spend the savings at Menards.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
There is 3 square feet in each linear foot of panel, so at 20.28 for 10 feet, it would be 2.03 per running foot divided by 3 for price per square foot, disregarding rebate.
Falcon67
Well-known member
And I like the warm glow of my unpainted OSB walls and ceiling. 
Pruittx2
Well-known member
just picked up 10 more 7/16 osb to finish off my ceiling today at Menards. $9.95 ea $8.86 after mail in rebate. It was $11.45 last week during the 10% off home improvement sale they were doing.