Looking for ideas for seized bearing

[rjwilliams]

All,

I have an old metal hardware cabinet that I got from my father (sentimental value). In place of slides the drawers use a stud type bearings. Unfortunately this cabinet was flooded during Hurricane Isabel and the bearings on the lower drawers are seized. I was able to work the partially stuck bearings free but did not know how to move forward with frozen ones. I tried to use a slip joint pliers but the entire unit started moving (the stud started turning) thinking maybe heat? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Keyblazer]

Soak in a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Transmission fluid before u do anything.

 

[JR 42]

Yes, or Kroil, or Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster, or any good quality penetrating oil (not WD-40) Let it sit for a while, tap it gently with a small hammer, soak again, repeat, repeat, heat it up, tap it, repeat, repeat, etc. etc. for days. Then try the pliers.

 

[gearhead1]

I’d recommend kroil spray first, let it sit overnight or a couple days. Then if that doesn’t work, then soak in a 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.

 

[rjwilliams]

I have tried soaking it in PB Blaster overnight and tapping with a hammer. I may have to upgrade to Kroil.

 

[The Cobbler]

good advice above.
good soak for days
a few ( or more) decent smacks with a hammer on the rivet center to shock the bearing . try to get some movement & then just keep working it.
can you get the rivet tack welded on the back side to keep it from spinning?

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Id be inclined to use a rust remover rather than an oil.
Ie, soak in CLR, vinegar, evaporust, electrolysis, etc.

 

[rjwilliams]

Tried electrolysis overnight and nothing happened other than some paint being removed.

 

[Specracer]

Sounds like its time to try heat

 

[ghost68]

Could you use a strap wrench on it to wiggle back and forth after a good soaking? That way you don't mar the surface.

Or locking pliers with hose over the teeth.

 

[joe49]

Yes, or Kroil, or Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster, or any good quality penetrating oil (not WD-40) Let it sit for a while, tap it gently with a small hammer, soak again, repeat, repeat, heat it up, tap it, repeat, repeat, etc. etc. for days. Then try the pliers.

Or just get GM Penetrant and heat valve lubricant and be using it in short order.
https://www.yearone.com/Product/1967-81-firebird/2627n

 

[toplessHO]

Ive had good luck using this product
http://www.blockcorrosion.com/
boaters swear by it. It has a real good creep
foams if you control the spray right
one big can lasts me years

 

[Flail]

Can you just replace those with some small bearings, a flathead screw and a nut?

Or go to the Home Depot website and lookup “window rollers”.

 

[rjwilliams]

Sounds like its time to try heat

For heat do you recommend propane, butane, or something else?

 

[toplessHO]

For heat do you recommend propane, butane, or something else?

heat will make a mess if it has any plastic or nylon

 

[bubinga]

Can you just replace those with some small bearings, a flathead screw and a nut?

Or go to the Home Depot website and lookup “window rollers”.

Good Idea Flail!!!

 

[joe49]

So what have you tried so far after the PB and electrolysis?

 

[matt_i]

Here is where I would be.

Oxyacetylene torch and get it red hot.

Then let it cool a bit and melt some paraffin wax into it after all colors other than black-steel are gone. It will probably be 400F or so (guessing) enough to melt the wax but not so hot it steams and vaporizes.

Can always repeat.

Pliers (+ the heat) will get it loose but also ruin the OD due to the bite marks.

I might sacrifice the face of the wheel and tap on it with a center punch and hammer while its hot to try to induce some relative motion. Don't punch close to the center stud as metal will be displaced that can jam the roller due to the small clearance between ID and OD.

If the OD were to get mushroomed slightly it can always be dressed with a file.

Once you get a little relative motion its just a matter of persistence.

I wouldn't plan on buying any new parts that will fit unless you are buying stock to turn on the lathe.

 

[rjwilliams]

So what have you tried so far after the PB and electrolysis?

I started with connector pliers to prevent marring but that didn’t work. I had already been using electrolysis for the metal rails that the rollers slide on so I put the bearings in overnight. In the morning the half of the bearing rail that I had dipped in the bucket had been stripped of paint but the bearing was still seized. I tried soaking them in wd-40 and then PB Blaster and tried tuening with vice grips but this led to the bearing and stud all moving. I tried the tapping method that was recommended but this did not work either. Moving to heat so I may get a small butane torch from Lowes.

 

[joe49]

Post 11 as we say this it the ****. It will set you free.
Just to mention I found out about this GM penetrant from a article in Hot Rod or Car Craft about 20 years ago.

 

[Flail]

If you even get them to roll again I expect them to feel rough. The races and balls are likely rusted, pitted and shedding grit in their. I think replacement will save you a ton of grief.

 

[rjwilliams]

If you even get them to roll again I expect them to feel rough. The races and balls are likely rusted, pitted and shedding grit in their. I think replacement will save you a ton of grief.

While I agree with you, this cabinet does not get enough use to warrant drilling out and fabricating replacement rollers. This was the cabinet that my dad used to store his stainess hardware and when I was working on boats as a kid I would sneak in and “borrow” whatever I needed to finish the project. My goal is to get it to useable condition and prevent any further rusting. Also, I am military and since my last transfer I had to put a lot of my tools into storage so only have so much to work with.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

soak in vinegar for a week, then blow them out and try it... it'll clean the metal for repainting also...

 

[Spareparts]

I have not had very good luck with Vinegar, found a chain wrench that the chain was one solid piece, beat the chain straight enough to drop in into a gal of vinegar, let it sit for a week, all I had left was the handle, the chain was all but gone, and a gallon og very black vinegar. Just keep spraying with KROIL it will come loose.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Something that I use that works every time is EVPORUST. I have a 30 liter ultrasonic parts cleaner. I use Evaporust in the ultrasonic tank and most rust is gone in about a minute.
Evaporust had videos on You Tube.
ATF and acetone do not mix. This makes it impossible for the two, when together, to form another product. This mixture is a bunk-house myth.

 

[E.Marquez]

Id not waste a second trying to rehab those.
Grind or drill off the rivet, source a like sized bearing install with a new rivet and likely a spacer to off set the bearing the correct distance and done

 

[E.Marquez]

While I agree with you, this cabinet does not get enough use to warrant drilling out and fabricating replacement rollers. This was the cabinet that my dad used to store his stainess hardware and when I was working on boats as a kid I would sneak in and “borrow” whatever I needed to finish the project. My goal is to get it to useable condition and prevent any further rusting. Also, I am military and since my last transfer I had to put a lot of my tools into storage so only have so much to work with.

Ahh, my apologies I did not see this before I posted my response of just replace them.

So how about this then...
Package them up and send them to me, I'll install new bearings and send back the slides ready to use.

I spent 28 years doing the "make do" before and after every PCS....

I'll give back a little to a fellow military member.

Respectfully

Erik

AKA
SGM Marquez, US Army (Ret)

 

[toplessHO]

another thought came to mind
have you got an air chisel with a flat hammer type bit?
place the bit on top of the bearing and use low air pressure bursts to break the rust loose inside,squirt with penetrant while doing so

 

[rjwilliams]

another thought came to mind
have you got an air chisel with a flat hammer type bit?
place the bit on top of the bearing and use low air pressure bursts to break the rust loose inside,squirt with penetrant while doing so

That is a good idea but the heat actually worked. I was able to get them moving. Now I have to find a way to hook up a belt to them to keep them moving at a slow speed so I can spray lubricant.

Ahh, my apologies I did not see this before I posted my response of just replace them.

So how about this then...
Package them up and send them to me, I'll install new bearings and send back the slides ready to use.

I spent 28 years doing the "make do" before and after every PCS....

I'll give back a little to a fellow military member.

Respectfully

Erik

AKA
SGM Marquez, US Army (Ret)

I absolutely appreciate this and would definitely be willing to ship them out. I just want you to know that the pics may be deceiving and their is a total of 88 bearings. Four rails with 22 a piece!

 

[WoodsTruck]

That is a good idea but the heat actually worked. I was able to get them moving. Now I have to find a way to hook up a belt to them to keep them moving at a slow speed so I can spray lubricant.

Can you create a rubber wheel by bolting through some thick rubber washers, or a well nut and then chuck the bolt into your drill? You could then turn each one with the drill at whatever speed you chose while soaking the rust out. If you had a drill press, this would be easier since you could gear it down, and set the wheel height so you could slide the rail up with one hand and squirt rust-be-gone with the other. Safety glasses come to mind about now...

 

[mrolds88]

I have had good success with "The Works" bathroom cleaner. It eats rust.