Running Gas Line in the Attic

[xj0517]

Good morning,

Quick question I cannot find a solid answer too. I need to run gas to my garage for my new furnace. A couple key considerations for my situation.

1. Ranch style home with a basement and garage attached to a breezeway.
2. To supply the furnace I need to T off the line where it enters from the meter on the other end of the house almost 90' away from where it will stop. I have done the load calculation on this.

My options are go outside and bury the line, which I really want to avoid. I still have to bring it into the garage and I am trying to avoid as much visible black pipe as possible.

Or go up throuhj the attic, I currently am redoing my master bath on the other end of the house and have drywall out, so going from the basement to the attic would be an easy transition at that point.

I live in MI, I cannot go through the breezeway because of the concrete slab, without tearing out about 10 foot of drywall and removing cabinets. The attic seems like an easy alternative. I have access from the house attic throuhj the breezeway and into the garage so I would only need to drop it into the garage right above the furnace which will be the cleanest install. Thanks!

 

[77thor]

I don't think it would be a problem running it through the attic.
I've seen it done before. But I'm no expert.
Check your local building code.

 

[Jackfre]

It is commonly done. Are you planning on using CSST or black pipe. The flex pipe is easiest but certainly more costly. You will have to increase the size if running csst. the flex is also much more expensive. If you can feed straight lengths of black pipe that would be the best and most cost effective option. Another thing, csst requires training on the joint assemblies.

 

[xj0517]

It is commonly done. Are you planning on using CSST or black pipe. The flex pipe is easiest but certainly more costly. You will have to increase the size if running csst. the flex is also much more expensive. If you can feed straight lengths of black pipe that would be the best and most cost effective option. Another thing, csst requires training on the joint assemblies.

I'm using black pipe. I have all the tools, a threader and once I get into the attic it's a straight shot to the garage. I guess I should have known it's ok, I work with stone on new builds all the time and around here you never see anything in the attic so I paused a bit before diving into it.

 

[bullnerd]

Is the attic vented?

 

[xj0517]

Is the attic vented?

Yes. Ridge vent down entire peak along with the soffits.

 

[Kaizen]

Personally if there is no gas in the attic now I’d keep it that way. In my mind more connections that could be a problem. It does have to be black pipe now around here. I’d rather use a trencher and bury it with no connections. Agree black pipe is ugly on the house. I have some and no stopping it from rusting


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Shiftless]

I have some exposed black iron pipe in the crawlspace. To keep it from rusting, I PAINTED it. Doesn’t look bad to me! Lots of high end brewpubs etc. have exposed ductwork, conduit, and piping. Done neatly, it is decorative. The designers call it “Industrial Chic”.

 

[Milton Shaw]

On black pipe, I have had problems with factory treads leaking. I ended up just cutting factory threads off and rethreading. Should be OK to run it in attic as it would be a lot easier. On a 90 foot run you might need to up-size the pipe to get the correct BTU flow at such a low pressure. Most systems run 7"WC of pressure but some are 1/2 PSI and require a different regulator at each appliance/heater. Just need to be sure what system you have.

 

[MFolks]

If you go with black iron pipe,if possible get US made,the **** from China will leak if the threads are not chased(re threaded),as they will leak,no matter how tight you get them.

A friend did that that for a new water heater,and had to take everything apart and re-do the joints. The Loctite white pipe dope seems to seal the best,I never use any of the Teflon tape for gas joints,too many chances for a piece to get caught in a valve.

 

[xj0517]

If you go with black iron pipe,if possible get US made,the **** from China will leak if the threads are not chased(re threaded),as they will leak,no matter how tight you get them.

A friend did that that for a new water heater,and had to take everything apart and re-do the joints. The Loctite white pipe dope seems to seal the best,I never use any of the Teflon tape for gas joints,too many chances for a piece to get caught in a valve.

The local lumber yard sells made in USA pipe. When I originally ran it all for the house I didn't have any trouble with leaks so I'm hoping that doesn't change now. I wish I would have thought farther ahead when everything was torn up, but that's life.

As for burying or trenching it would be a pretty major project with the direct route going through a lot of landscaping, a deck, and under a sidewalk. I could go around all this but it would be quite a bit more work than straight through the attic along with many more fittings.

Going through the attic I would have a 90 in the basement, a 90 when I'm in the attic, couplers to get to the garage then two more 90s to get down into the garage....pretty simple really.

 

[xj0517]

I have some exposed black iron pipe in the crawlspace. To keep it from rusting, I PAINTED it. Doesn’t look bad to me! Lots of high end brewpubs etc. have exposed ductwork, conduit, and piping. Done neatly, it is decorative. The designers call it “Industrial Chic”.

I don't mind that look at all, that's actually what we did with our basement. I just don't want to have it seen outside the house, and in the garage with my new liner panel everywhere if it can be avoided.

Outside I have extra siding and could make a Chase but it gets tricky inside the garage coming from the ground.

 

[MattT]

Another thing, csst requires training on the joint assemblies.

For the CSST I use the "training" consists of reading the manual and checking a box saying you've read it

http://homeflex.com/becomecertified/

The joints aren't difficult to make. Just use a sharp tubing cutter and don't get heavy handed with cutting the tubing or crimping the rings. Someone who's unable to install CSST would probably **** up a black pipe install too.

 

[Jim greengo]

For the CSST I use the "training" consists of reading the manual and checking a box saying you've read it

http://homeflex.com/becomecertified/

The joints aren't difficult to make. Just use a sharp tubing cutter and don't get heavy handed with cutting the tubing or crimping the rings. Someone who's unable to install CSST would probably **** up a black pipe install too.

I'm not a fan of track pipe by any means,but if you use the yellow stuff make sure to bond it.

 

[Jackfre]

If you have 90' you might consider a swing joint. Oh, and go one size up from what you think you will need.

 

[Copymutt]

My hang down heater is fed through the attic w/ black pipe. Been that way since 95. No issues, no deterioration.
Jim

 

[A Rus]

Good morning,

Quick question I cannot find a solid answer too. I need to run gas to my garage for my new furnace. A couple key considerations for my situation.

1. Ranch style home with a basement and garage attached to a breezeway.
2. To supply the furnace I need to T off the line where it enters from the meter on the other end of the house almost 90' away from where it will stop. I have done the load calculation on this.

My options are go outside and bury the line, which I really want to avoid. I still have to bring it into the garage and I am trying to avoid as much visible black pipe as possible.

Or go up throuhj the attic, I currently am redoing my master bath on the other end of the house and have drywall out, so going from the basement to the attic would be an easy transition at that point.

I live in MI, I cannot go through the breezeway because of the concrete slab, without tearing out about 10 foot of drywall and removing cabinets. The attic seems like an easy alternative. I have access from the house attic throuhj the breezeway and into the garage so I would only need to drop it into the garage right above the furnace which will be the cleanest install. Thanks!

I have read that CSST installed in ceilings, attics, etc., requires bond grounding with 6 AWG copper to avoid lightning strikes and fires.

 

[PoorUB]

I have read that CSST installed in ceilings, attics, etc., requires bond grounding with 6 AWG copper to avoid lightning strikes and fires.

It depends on the CSST.

Much of the newer CSST has an outer braided jacket and dies not require bonding, but the fittings need to be done properly.

As for running gas through the attic I can not see one reason not too unless code forbids it in your area. We ran gas in attics all the time here.

No matter if you are running black pipe or CSST you need to pressure test it.

 

[pcmeiners]

"If you go with black iron pipe,if possible get US made,the **** from China will leak if the threads are not chased(re threaded),as they will leak,no matter how tight you get them."

If you use ample pipe dope and thread you will never have a leak with any gas pipe, US or Chinese, unless you tighten by hand.

"Is the attic vented?"

What does that have to do with running pipe, unless not pressure tested. The installer's comfort ?

 

[fitter30]

With the temp swings in the attic pipe in a expansion loop and use hangers that will let the pipe move.