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Rusco Spin-Down Sediment Trapper vs TwistIIClean - Well Water Sediment

larry4406

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I need to add some sort of sediment prefilter to our well water system.

After searching the net, it appears that there are two units which would work.

Rusco Sediment Trapper® Filters
http://www.rusco.com/index.php/product1/spin-down-and-sediment-trapper-filters

TwistIIClean Water Filter
https://www.twistiiclean.com/

Currently I have an AquaPure AP801/AP801T-C with the clear bowl and it has 1" threaded ports. It takes a filter that is approximately 4x10". It gets a fair amount of fine black granular sediment in the bottom of the bowl. The particles are very fine, similar to finely ground play sand. I am having to replace the filter about every 3/4 months due to noticeable pressure drop in the house. Yes these filters can be washed but with current plumbing set up I have no access to water when changing/removing the filter.

I have no idea what elevation my pump is set relative to the well depth. I am not interested in playing the raise the pump game to add margin to the bottom to avoid sucking silt/sand (used home purchased 5 years ago). The well was drilled in 1987. Accordingly, please don't suggest this approach.

The Rusco touts its cyclonic action to separate the particles with easy flush. However it does not back flush the screen (would need other external valving to achieve this). The TwistIIClean clearly backflushes but does not appear to use cyclonic action.

I am leaning towards the Rusco 1" but not sure on the mesh size. They have a guide for mesh selection but without hard data on my grit size, it is a guess. That said, the mesh cores are replaceable so if I guessed wrong, it could be changed. When installing it, I could easily plumb in a back flush setup as I will also be doing that for the AquaPure.
http://rusco.com/images/productos/especifications/MeshSizeSelection.pdf

What is the collective wisdom of the GJ folks on these units? Would like to hear from folks who actually have first hand experience with either or both of these units.
 

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thammel

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For serious sediment check out the Lakos sandmaster. Get the stainless steel version. This goes before your well x trol. Then put the Rusco after your neutralizer and/or softener.

Tom
 

Tim Kennedy

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larry4406:
I run the shop for a water treatment company [not a big deal -- since I'm the only one in the shop] - I build/rebuild softeners/conditioners -- so I've had some experience with both of these. I like the Twist-II-Clean -- a sturdy item -- read the instructions & make the spacers for attaching it to a wall & it will last a long time, you can get various size mesh for it & it's easy to take apart. You can get various size mesh for the Rusco also --- I don't particularly like the valve on the bottom -- it's PVC & after awhile the valve gets damn hard to turn & the way it mounts on the bottom seems flimsy to me -- just my opinion -- I know they make an electric automatic valve for the Rusco but I'm not sure if they do for the Twist-II-Clean. As far as plumbing it before your pressure tank as thammel suggests -- all the water drillers I know around here + all the pump suppliers we deal with don't recommend anything between the pump --[except a back-check valve] & the pressure tank --- all treatment devices should go after the pressure tank. One small tip -- if you are replacing your pressure tank -- don't use a common "T" to connect to the plumbing -- use a pipe ****** from the tank with a union -- then connect to the "T" kit --- makes future pressure tank changes much simpler. Again --- all of this is just my 2cents.
 

My Old Tools

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Another option is to replace your 4x10 with a 4.5x20 big blue. Filter media should last at least twice as long. I have two, one 1 micron sediment filter followed by a carbon block.
 
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larry4406

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larry4406:
I run the shop for a water treatment company [not a big deal -- since I'm the only one in the shop] - I build/rebuild softeners/conditioners -- so I've had some experience with both of these. I like the Twist-II-Clean -- a sturdy item -- read the instructions & make the spacers for attaching it to a wall & it will last a long time, you can get various size mesh for it & it's easy to take apart. You can get various size mesh for the Rusco also --- I don't particularly like the valve on the bottom -- it's PVC & after awhile the valve gets damn hard to turn & the way it mounts on the bottom seems flimsy to me -- just my opinion -- I know they make an electric automatic valve for the Rusco but I'm not sure if they do for the Twist-II-Clean. As far as plumbing it before your pressure tank as thammel suggests -- all the water drillers I know around here + all the pump suppliers we deal with don't recommend anything between the pump --[except a back-check valve] & the pressure tank --- all treatment devices should go after the pressure tank. One small tip -- if you are replacing your pressure tank -- don't use a common "T" to connect to the plumbing -- use a pipe ****** from the tank with a union -- then connect to the "T" kit --- makes future pressure tank changes much simpler. Again --- all of this is just my 2cents.

Tim Kennedy - thanks for your feedback. The TwistIIClean does look like its a better build. Thanks also for the feedback on the Rusco flush valve becoming difficult to turn over time; I think this would piss me off.

thammel - This is my 4th home with a well and all have had the filters/treatment system downstream of the pressure tank. On the new construction homes I manage, our well driller/installer also installs all treatment systems downstream of the pressure tank which echo's Tim Kennedy's experience.

My Old Tools - I am ok with the 4x10 Aquapure I have (its here and paid for). The sediment that builds up in 3-4 months is only about 1-2" in the bottom of the bowl. Thus my thoughts of having something that would screen and settle it out before entering the filter unit.
 

thammel

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Yes, I understand the reason for putting a lakos sandmaster (or anything for that matter ) after the pressure tank. The concern is having it blocked and damaging the pump. The reason I've put one before the pressure tank in the past is that I had a LOT of sediment from the well. I did this to keep the pressure tank and all other parts free from all the silt... One has to be diligent about taking care of the filter (the lakos is not a typical filter but a centrifugal spin down system) to ensure it doesn't get clogged. The twist to clean looks like a nice option!
Tom
 

Leaflessshadetree

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The first Rusco I installed main housing split apart in less than a month. The second one lasted a few months before the the bowl broke (where the valve attaches to the bottom).
Fortunately I saved the bowl from the first one. Used it just long enough to get a different brand. It's a iSpring brand and has worked OK for about a year so far.
 

Tim Kennedy

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thammel: Probably not a viable option at this point for you, but --- some of our customers have had good luck with having a driller come in and pull the pump up anywhere from a few feet to 20 or 30 feet to get it out of the muck -- might be something to consider down the road. Another little tidbit -- when I had a new well drilled -- [25 years ago] -- the water geologist I talked to said you can spend thousands of $$$ putting equipment to treat a variety of well problems in your system but in the end "deeper is cheaper" --- go as far as needed to get good water to start with & it will be more cost effective --- believe me -- there is not a unit out there that is maintenance free -- at some point & time it will break -- I see it all the time.
 

crucible

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My records on my house show my pump is at 352' with the well being 20' deeper or so; I still get sediment.

Several months ago I installed a completely new system and it can be seen in this post: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7395490&postcount=35

In it I have the Rusco 1" trapper version and it works well, and seems well constructed to me (the 100 version). I looked at the Sandmaster and other similar devices, and concluded the RUSCO would work fine for me, has replaceable screens, and a good reputation that I could find.

Anyway, it was installed to capture the larger sediment elements first, then a Big Blue 4.5x20 filter system follows it which is loaded with a 50/5 micron dual gradient filter. I have to piped to the laundry sink, for ease of flushing, but only needs to flushed out occasionally.

Coming from a old system with a single 4.5x10" sediment filter that needed changing frequently, this combo has worked so well for me that after months of use, the 4.5"x20" Big Blue filter still only shows a couple PSI difference between the input and the output meaning it's not getting clogged up anywhere near where it needs to be changed yet.

FWIW.

C-
 
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larry4406

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The first Rusco I installed main housing split apart in less than a month. The second one lasted a few months before the the bowl broke (where the valve attaches to the bottom).
Fortunately I saved the bowl from the first one. Used it just long enough to get a different brand. It's a iSpring brand and has worked OK for about a year so far.

My records on my house show my pump is at 352' with the well being 20' deeper or so; I still get sediment.

Several months ago I installed a completely new system and it can be seen in this post: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7395490&postcount=35

In it I have the Rusco 1" trapper version and it works well, and seems well constructed to me (the 100 version). I looked at the Sandmaster and other similar devices, and concluded the RUSCO would work fine for me, has replaceable screens, and a good reputation that I could find.

Anyway, it was installed to capture the larger sediment elements first, then a Big Blue 4.5x20 filter system follows it which is loaded with a 50/5 micron dual gradient filter. I have to piped to the laundry sink, for ease of flushing, but only needs to flushed out occasionally.

Coming from a old system with a single 4.5x10" sediment filter that needed changing frequently, this combo has worked so well for me that after months of use, the 4.5"x20" Big Blue filter still only shows a couple PSI difference between the input and the output meaning it's not getting clogged up anywhere near where it needs to be changed yet.

FWIW.

C-

Leaflessshadetree - not a glowing review on the Russco. Thanks for the feedback. The bottom flush valve breakage seems to echo Tim Kennedy's "flimsy" comment.

crucible - Your's is one of the systems with a Russco that I thought looked good and was hoping you would chime in.
 

bbxlr8

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I suddenly started getting "mid-sized" sand late this summer after the crazy rains and changes to the water table and went with the Rusco 1" @ 100m in stainless and so far it has been excellent. This is my third house and second full well /water treatment system. It is keeping the 4.5 x 10 that follows much cleaner. Definitely install after the p-tank and switch... The bottom valve is easily replaced if it ever gives you trouble - it is the typical 1/2" female PVC one but mine seems fine
 
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gearhead1

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My house was built in 2015 and the shower heads clogged after a few days after we moved in. The builder had the plumber come out and look. They stock the Rusco on the truck, installed it and out in about 20-30 minutes. Been fine ever since.

I’ve changed the element once, haven’t had any issues with it. Seems like a pretty simple and reliable filter. I’ve had no reason to change to a different design.
 

crucible

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Leaflessshadetree - not a glowing review on the Russco. Thanks for the feedback. The bottom flush valve breakage seems to echo Tim Kennedy's "flimsy" comment.

crucible - Your's is one of the systems with a Russco that I thought looked good and was hoping you would chime in.

Thanks. Most of the others look like they are fine devices. I assumed too I got more sediment than I really do, and that's what drew me to the Rusco trapper version with its ability to store more sediment away from the screen filter....the others didn't have that. Now that I can see the sediment as it comes in, spins down and gathers, I know that it was less than I thought...but it does increase flushing intervals, so win anyway.

I've had no issues with the PVC flush ball valve; it's easy to turn and you only need to turn it a slight amount anyway to flush (you don't want to turn it anywhere near all the way as you'll have a fire hose at 60 psi...not that I know anything about that :shocking::bounce:). But if it does become an issue down the road, it simply unscrews off.
 

holdover

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I have used the Rusco style device for over 15 years, without any problems. Befor I placed it I changed filters often. About once a week I do a blow down. I have this unit before any other filters. My well is 100' with the submersible pump about 20' off the bottom, the well was drilled in 1975, flows about 20 GPM. It was a great solution to an old problem
 
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larry4406

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My house was built in 2015 and the shower heads clogged after a few days after we moved in. The builder had the plumber come out and look. They stock the Rusco on the truck, installed it and out in about 20-30 minutes. Been fine ever since.

I’ve changed the element once, haven’t had any issues with it. Seems like a pretty simple and reliable filter. I’ve had no reason to change to a different design.

Good info on the Rusco! Why did you need to replace the element? I thought they were washable.
 
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larry4406

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I have used the Rusco style device for over 15 years, without any problems. Befor I placed it I changed filters often. About once a week I do a blow down. I have this unit before any other filters. My well is 100' with the submersible pump about 20' off the bottom, the well was drilled in 1975, flows about 20 GPM. It was a great solution to an old problem

Also good long term feedback on the Rusco! Thank you.

Decision becoming harder to make between the two.
 
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larry4406

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Found this pressure test video comparison by Rusco comparing themselves to the Twist-II-Clean. In a residential well setting, I don't think the burst pressures matter much but the strength test comparison is interesting.

Last post of this thread talks about Rusco filter bowl threaded end snapping off if not careful opening the valve. This echo's some of the experience/concerns expressed by others here.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-valve-for-sediment-filters-like-rusco.54142/

One of the drawbacks I thought of the Rusco is its lack of inherent ability to backflush the internal screen which would require external valving to create a thorough backflush. However, I found the installation manual and they recommend it be installed after the pressure switch but upstream of the pressure tank. With the pump off, this will backflush the internal screen without adding any extra valves. That said, to achieve this, I would need to ditch the Well-Trol tee setup that is on my expansion tank. I do have a spare expansion tank that I could pipe in to achieve this backflush method and could set it up to back flush the AquaPure as well.

Still pondering....
 

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larry4406

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I found the Rusco unit that Crucible had linked to in one of his thread responses.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VPMMSW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Read thru the reviews posted and two discuss cracked purge valves causing water damage to their homes. I'm thinking installation error by over tightening the pipe threads.
 

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bullnerd

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I don't know anything about these systems other than I need to do about the same thing your doing, but, why not just put a copper ball valve on in place of the plastic one?
 

crucible

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I found the Rusco unit that Crucible had linked to in one of his thread responses.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VPMMSW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Read thru the reviews posted and two discuss cracked purge valves causing water damage to their homes. I'm thinking installation error by over tightening the pipe threads.

Yikes-you may be right about over tightening, but I don't like that pic showing it leaking on a closed valve a single bit, no sir. While I have no problems with the unit and have a leak detection system that will shutdown my pump, I think I'll follow bullnerd's idea and replace it proactively with a stainless/brass valve anyway.
 

gearhead1

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Good info on the Rusco! Why did you need to replace the element? I thought they were washable.

I didn’t know if they were or weren’t washable, so I picked up a new one then swapped it, then washed the old one. That way I can do a quick swap.
 

tinysparky

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For serious sediment check out the Lakos sandmaster. Get the stainless steel version. This goes before your well x trol. Then put the Rusco after your neutralizer and/or softener.

Tom

How much sand are you getting and what size? I had a new well put in with mesh at the bottom and am getting a lot of material up still.

I started off with two spin down ruscos....but after about 2500 gallons they would clog (think.....125psi....). so i would drain rinse...and repeat.

this weekend I installed a lakos sandmaster....and i also built some pvc contracption I saw on youtube...as it must be true....so Now i go...

pvc tubes...laksos...rusco.....triple big blues......

I will go down tonight and check to see how it is doing and what part is capturing sand.
 

thammel

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Tinysparky....I am no longer in the house with all the sediment where I had the Lakos sandmaster. That was 15 years ago. Per my recollection, I'd get about a half inch of silt in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket every week or so....

Tom
 
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larry4406

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Yes, I understand the reason for putting a lakos sandmaster (or anything for that matter ) after the pressure tank. The concern is having it blocked and damaging the pump. The reason I've put one before the pressure tank in the past is that I had a LOT of sediment from the well. I did this to keep the pressure tank and all other parts free from all the silt... One has to be diligent about taking care of the filter (the lakos is not a typical filter but a centrifugal spin down system) to ensure it doesn't get clogged. The twist to clean looks like a nice option!
Tom

Ugh...I still need to pull the trigger and do this. The Rusco instructions do say to install upstream of the pressure tank while downstream of the pressure switch.

Two weeks ago I had to replace the pressure tank. Noticed that the house water pressure was degraded yet filter looked fine. The pressure tank had a 1987 date hand written with magic marker so I am assuming this is the original tank to the house. 31 years in service is pretty amazing if the dating is accurate.

When the pump was running, you could noticeably hear the water spraying like a geyser as it entered the pressure tank vs the normal "tick tick tick" sound the expanding bladder used to make. I am guessing the bladder ruptured and there was a standing water level that the entering water now sprayed thru to create the water spray noise. Checked the air valve at the top and air was still present. Noticed the pump was cycling between 25/45 psi (on/off).

Removed the old pressure tank and it was full of silt. Even after draining the system down the tank still holds a considerable amount of water; odd.

The spare pressure tank I had was identical to the tank removed so it made for a quick swap. Took more time for the PVC glue to set up then it did to make the swap (all piping upstream of the tank is 1" PVC).

The spare tank had been removed from a house my brother demo'd. Checked its air pressure and found it to be 20 psi which I bumped up to 38 psi. Installed the tank and readjusted the switch to 40/65 - wow much nicer.
 

sweetk30

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rusco spin down for me for a few years now . few filter cleans and drain off every month or so . filters a lot of the fine chunky stuff before it gets to my 4x10 main filter and has extended the life of them a bit more .

i got my stuff from these guys . and i get my replacement filters also from them . fast shipping and great service . i get the multi pack deals so i have 1 years worth of change outs on had . 2 month for the main filter / 3 month for the hot water tank feed with mineral bonder in the filter .
 

dcg9381

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I have owned several of the Ruscos. I've never had a failure. That being said, at best, I use them as a "rough" pre-filter. Unless you set them up for by-pass and run them backwards, IMHO they don't "spin down" very well and you do need to take them apart. Their biggest limitation is that they are small.

I still use one as a "pre-filter" to my above ground pump - mainly just to make sure nothing that would hurt the pump could get through (I collect rain water).

Our main sediment filters are the 20" "Big blue" type. This is what keeps sediment out of our drinking water and allows us to go months without changing filters. If you don't get much sediment, you're probably fine.. But I have used these with 500' wells and with rain water.
 
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larry4406

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Going thru the planning stage of installing the Rusco at my house with well.

In the interim, scavenged a 3-stage Whole House Filter setup from Perfect Water Technologies from a soon to be demolished house (uses three standard 4.5x20" filters and came with pressure gages downstream of each filter). The unit has 1" ports and comes with flow arranged from right to left, so I need to unbolt the filter housings and reverse it for left to right and reinstall it to the mount. Similar unit here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005A3WOOC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Attached is a schematic of how I am thinking of configuring the system. Any comments? The valves shown in black are normally closed and used for flushing or bypass. The filter bypass loop will be above the filters (not as shown) to give more room for filter swap below.

Well inlet starts at upper left and then the pressure switch prior to the Rusco per their manual which allows the Rusco to be back flushed from the downstream expansion tank (well power off). NO VALVE BETWEEN THE WELL AND THE PRESSURE SWITCH.

Yard hydrant and house hose bib taps downstream of the Rusco but upstream of filters.

Three (3) stage filter setup with shutoffs fore/aft, bypass valve, and gages downstream of each filter stage (free find). Filter types TBD. Currently I have a single 30 micron unit that I change every 1-2 months and generally it is ok other than the particulate debris and Virginia red clay. I do not have well water quality data other than that it is potable. My prior house 3 miles away I had to go to 1 micron to stop the red sediment in the toilet bowls.

Downstream of the filter unit, tap for treated water to a future detached garage (dream?), the expansion tank, and the house.

Under all of this will be a 48" double slop sink to contain the spillage during Rusco and filter cleanings. The cold for the sink will likely be tapped between the Rusco and the filters so that water is available for filter changes and cleanup.

As I am on septic, I will have a 5 gallon bucket in the sink to receive the blowdown during back flushes, filter changes, etc.

Arrangement will allow forward and backwards flushing of the Rusco and the filter bank.
 

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dcg9381

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That's a lot of filtration. I like the back-flush on the Rusco - that worked well for me.
What's the goal here? The down side of adding more filtration is that you're going to have to service more often. For me, a single sediment filter is "clean enough" for yard use, washing cars, washing hands. If you've got a toilet and need 1 micro, I get it...

The thing I do differently (and I have no toilet sediment) is that I save the advanced filtration for point-of-use drinking, but I do UV at the water main... The smaller filters being at point of use help keep me from changing filters frequently.

Absolutely nothing wrong with how you're doing it... Almost every water source is different.
 

egdede

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Read the thread, agree people over-tightening the valve probably explains their problems. Don't use teflon tape...
 
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larry4406

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That's a lot of filtration. I like the back-flush on the Rusco - that worked well for me.
What's the goal here? The down side of adding more filtration is that you're going to have to service more often. For me, a single sediment filter is "clean enough" for yard use, washing cars, washing hands. If you've got a toilet and need 1 micro, I get it...

The thing I do differently (and I have no toilet sediment) is that I save the advanced filtration for point-of-use drinking, but I do UV at the water main... The smaller filters being at point of use help keep me from changing filters frequently.

Absolutely nothing wrong with how you're doing it... Almost every water source is different.

Thanks for the feed back. What's the goal here? Several.
1. I want the Rusco to prefilter the water prior to the filter to extend filter life and performance. The well has fine black grit.

2. I want to be able to back flush the filters as they are able to be cleaned and reused. Thus the pressure switch relocated upstream of the expansion tank. Allows cleaning/backflushing insitu.

3. I want to contain the spillage from filter maintenance. Thus the filters vertically above the sink catch basin. Also plumbing the sink cold downstream of the Rusco but upstream of the filters ensures water is available for cleanup.

4. I need to replumb the basement as its a mess from the prior owner.

The 3-stage filter setup with 1" ports was an unplanned diversion when I got it for free. It uses the same 4.5x20 filters that the PentAir "Big Blue" units do which many here on GJ tout as the gold standard. This filter size is twice that of the one I currently have yet the filter costs are about the same. Oddly it does not have pressure relief ports (maybe the design used it for the pressure gages?) so the providing valving can depressurize for filter changeout.

Now that the 3-stage filter is in the picture, I am thinking of using maybe 30, 20, and 10 micron filters and see how it goes.

I am hoping for less service due to Rusco, the 3-stage filtration, the 1" ports (which I will use 1" piping for the manifolds) while the house is 3/4".
 
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