To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

URD and conduit

DL0336

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2018
Messages
5
Location
GA
Hello,

I have probably read and searched into a state of confusion. I am running 2-2-2-4 Dykes URD from house to detached shop that is about 70' away. The ground is dark muck, some small rocks and upper 4" of topsoil; trench is 24" in most places but goes to 30"+ in a few places. I was going to lay the wire in and back fill with sand on the wires then dirt and the muck (clay) but then read where some have put wires in conduit to avoid rock damage and critters. I am okay to use 2" sch 40? It seems the extra protection the conduit provides from the rocks and possible critters will help in the long run.

Read a few more threads and it seems I asked and answered in my post; wow!
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,253
Location
Modesto, CA
Just an FYI- URD is not permitted inside so you will need to splice on both ends and transition to another wire type.

And yes conduit is cheap insurance
 

75gmck25

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Messages
1,350
Location
Alexandria, VA
Have you already purchased the Dykes URD? If you use dual-rated 2-2-2-4 AL MHF, you can run it both underground and within the building in conduit. Just run the 2" conduit underground and come up with a long sweep 90 right next to the building. From there you can use an LB as a pull point, and also make the 90 degree turn to go into the building and connect to the panel.

Sch 40 is fine for underground protection of URD, but to be 100% code-compliant in most places you are supposed to use Schedule 80 for above ground protection. However, schedule 80 is not usually stocked in the big box stores, so I think many folks just use sch 40 above ground.

Bruce
 

Augus7us

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2017
Messages
1,190
Location
Central Ohio
I ran URD and direct buried it, its what they would have done if I paid the electrician to do it. If you're a belt and suspenders guy then put it in conduit, it won't hurt anything as far as I know.

Also as mentioned above I had to transition to SER inside as the jacket is rated for fire exposure, if I'm remembering right. Either way I didn't want to run conduit in the house. You could use a box and polaris bolts, I used a 100amp disconnect for the transition into the house and a 90amp in the main panel feeding the sub in my shop. All my 2224 was aluminum.

-Clint
 
OP
D

DL0336

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2018
Messages
5
Location
GA
Have you already purchased the Dykes URD? If you use dual-rated 2-2-2-4 AL MHF, you can run it both underground and within the building in conduit. Just run the 2" conduit underground and come up with a long sweep 90 right next to the building. From there you can use an LB as a pull point, and also make the 90 degree turn to go into the building and connect to the panel.

Sch 40 is fine for underground protection of URD, but to be 100% code-compliant in most places you are supposed to use Schedule 80 for above ground protection. However, schedule 80 is not usually stocked in the big box stores, so I think many folks just use sch 40 above ground.

Bruce

I already have the URD. As I read more along with your post, I would purchased the dual purpose but no turning back now. Thanks for the reply
 
OP
D

DL0336

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2018
Messages
5
Location
GA
I ran URD and direct buried it, its what they would have done if I paid the electrician to do it. If you're a belt and suspenders guy then put it in conduit, it won't hurt anything as far as I know.

Also as mentioned above I had to transition to SER inside as the jacket is rated for fire exposure, if I'm remembering right. Either way I didn't want to run conduit in the house. You could use a box and polaris bolts, I used a 100amp disconnect for the transition into the house and a 90amp in the main panel feeding the sub in my shop. All my 2224 was aluminum.

-Clint

I have the wire and pvc. I just have to figure out where I will splice the MHF and SER. My thoughts were initially as the MHF entered soffit but that is not sturdy enough nor is there room enough for me to get in there.
 

alfredeneuman

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2011
Messages
4,596
Location
Fullerton, CA
You're going to need a disconnecting means at the remote building anyway, and you could always mount a surface mounted breaker enclosure or disconnect (rated for the weather) on the outside of the building, and make the wire transition there.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,253
Location
Modesto, CA
I have the wire and pvc. I just have to figure out where I will splice the MHF and SER. My thoughts were initially as the MHF entered soffit but that is not sturdy enough nor is there room enough for me to get in there.

URD is not the same as MHF.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom