Building tube fenders for a jeep

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Steps look bitchin'!

What's this 600N you mention?

 

[LXCam]

Steps look bitchin'!

What's this 600N you mention?

Thanks again BBG. The Wilton vice. It didn't skip a beat with that chunk of 3/8" C channel plus the step hung out there. I didn't even have to really crank on it. I'd say these steps are right around 50lbs now, maybe a tick more?

 

[619DioFan]

Looks like a hell of a shop. just so you know , when you are ready to move to AZ. I will be sick that day LOL.

 

[LXCam]

Looks like a hell of a shop. just so you know , when you are ready to move to AZ. I will be sick that day LOL.

Buhahahaa. This place is a **** hole but it keeps the rain out, well mostly



And hell ya, there's definitely stuff that won't be going.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

I think that thing lives at your shop now ! Imma call him and convince him to ask for a full cage too.

 

[LXCam]

I think that thing lives at your shop now ! Imma call him and convince him to ask for a full cage too.

 

[Duker]

Step turned out freakin' awesome Cam.

Yep, have to agree with Mike....

See, aren’t you glad now that you didn’t go with the off the rack tube ones..... Of course since we had to “Jeep Shame” you into the project we (the collective posters) get to take credit for how good these turned out! [emoji14]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[LXCam]

Yep, have to agree with Mike....

See, aren’t you glad now that you didn’t go with the off the rack tube ones..... Of course since we had to “Jeep Shame” you into the project we (the collective posters) get to take credit for how good these turned out! [emoji14]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Chit, more like I'm sending you guys the storage bill. This thing could have gone home a couple weeks ago!




Haha, ya I'll admit you're right Duke. I'm glad I went this route it was a cool learning curve and worth the effort. If I'm to ever do something like this again I now know several ways not to do it.

And thanks bud

 

[4 FN 27]

Steps look awesome Cam!!!

I need to clear my slate and get going on my M715 project!!! I keep saying that and the Slate keeps growing.

 

[LXCam]

Thanks Pat. You've got a 175?, those are so badass. What are your plans?

 

[4 FN 27]

Thanks Pat. You've got a 175?, those are so badass. What are your plans?

Lift it a bit...pair of Dana 60's or I might Fab my own 9 inch housings not sure yet. Deciding between 4 Link and Leaf Spring??? Dodge Cummins tweaked up to about 500 HP and a Atlas T-Case with a Clutch and a Lenco Planetary in front of it...

Been using it to hunt Prairie Dogs...

 

[LXCam]

I had to laugh when you said in your thread ya was a professional PD hunter. But I should have know better by now, you don't mess around, when you do something-you do it 1000%.




Couple years back my kid rolled my Denali. 6.0 AWD and four wheel steering. Everything for the drivetrain is good to go, just the body got Fd flat. Been looking for an ole school body to drop over it and not long ago was driving up in the high desert and came across a M175 for sale. Went back the following day with some cash and it was gone already .


But I like the sounds of what you got planned, way more fun

 

[4 FN 27]

I had to laugh when you said in your thread ya was a professional PD hunter. But I should have know better by now, you don't mess around, when you do something-you do it 1000%.




Couple years back my kid rolled my Denali. 6.0 AWD and four wheel steering. Everything for the drivetrain is good to go, just the body got Fd flat. Been looking for an ole school body to drop over it and not long ago was driving up in the high desert and came across a M175 for sale. Went back the following day with some cash and it was gone already .


But I like the sounds of what you got planned, way more fun

I enjoy P-Dogg'in more than most. My Shooting Partner and I spent 9 days total training with Marine Corp Scout Snipers through Barrett's Long Range & Precision Schools between the mountains of KY and the high desert of NM honing our craft. 2 years ago we had to show our credentials to shoot P-Dogs on an organic beef ranch in SD...over the years we have been asked to come back to a few places to keep the population in check and some places totally get rid of them.

Keep an eye out for these M715's. A lot of them were sold to Fire Truck Manufacturers and converted to Brush Trucks. I got mine out of a Fire Dept south of the Twin Cities for $1100 in an auction. 9763 original miles always kept inside after being converted. Prior to that is sat at Fort McCoy from 1967 to 1977. Be an awesome platform for your Denali.

The motors are weak and the Axels are pencil thin but they will idle up a wall in low range and go over most terrain.

I have never dabbled in the 4 x 4 world so I have a lot of learning to do. Just looking to build something completely out of the norm but very functional and reliable...and mostly fun!!!

Mom and the pups, 525 yards, Savage 12 LRPV 22-250, Nightforce 3.5-15 x 50mm...the guys even made me some "Death from Above" cards so "Charlie" will know who did this...LOL...

 

[LXCam]

I enjoy P-Dogg'in more than most. My Shooting Partner and I spent 9 days total training with Marine Corp Scout Snipers through Barrett's Long Range & Precision Schools between the mountains of KY and the high desert of NM honing our craft. 2 years ago we had to show our credentials to shoot P-Dogs on an organic beef ranch in SD...over the years we have been asked to come back to a few places to keep the population in check and some places totally get rid of them.

Now that would be an awesome experience

Mom and the pups, 525 yards, Savage 12 LRPV 22-250, Nightforce 3.5-15 x 50mm...the guys even made me some "Death from Above" cards so "Charlie" will know who did this...LOL...

So let me get this straight. You picked off a varmint less then the size of a dollar bill at the first turn off lane for 12 second rides

/me will never get Pat upset......no chance in hell

 

[LXCam]

Now that the holidays are out of the way it's time to wrap this project up. My last fabrication task was the spare tire carrier and high lift jack mount. Looking at the stock carrier I figured no problem, I'll just stand it off a couple inches and raise the third brake light plus attach some type of mount.

But I decided to run this past our jeep guru Mike. And what does he tell me, I wouldn't do it. I wanted to cry

So I spent the morning looking at options and finally decided to make my own heavy duty single pivot unit. Picking thru the slim pickings I was able to come up with some 1.5"od 1/4" wall DOM tubing, some 1.5"od bronze and went to town cutting a bushing. I hope the pictures tell the rest of the story for now.

 

[zmotorsports]

Looks good Cam.

I can’t tell in the picture but are you tying it in close to the frame rail? I’ve done one in the past where the guy didn’t want a full blown bumper do I drilled out the plastic bumper and fabricated a mount for the pivot that bolted to the frame rail. Just a thought.

 

[LXCam]

Looks good Cam.

I can’t tell in the picture but are you tying it in close to the frame rail? I’ve done one in the past where the guy didn’t want a full blown bumper do I drilled out the plastic bumper and fabricated a mount for the pivot that bolted to the frame rail. Just a thought.

Ya something like that. I know the pivot is definitely going to mount to the frame, I just haven't figured out exactly how yet. I sat there yesterday looking and looking and looking and finally said F this, I gotta build something so I built that. Now I'm heading back out to look some more.

 

[LXCam]

And after looking some more decided I wanted the pivot pin support to not only be overly massive but also not welded permanently to the frame nor the bumper. What I decided on was to use the bumper structure as-is plus weld a tie point back to the frame mount. That way everything stays square to itself and it won't take too much work with a cut off tool to remove if needed or repurposed in the future. The picture explains it better then I can put into words.





At one time I had some solid 1.5" square bar but wasn't able to find it yesterday. That left me with two choices, mill down a chunk of aluminum or use some 2" solid round bar that I have several 8ft pieces of that are stored outside in the rack of death. So off I went to dig into the mass of rust and spider webs. I cut off a 18" chunk and then did a clean up pass. After that I could get a good square cut off my band saw. I know I do a lot of bragging on my baby but check out what it took to get a squared end once back in the lathe and even that was over kill.







After cutting the piece to size I tapped the bottom for a half inch bolt and then bored to the top to receive the 3/4" axle. I was going to use just a 3/4" bolt but didn't care for how it'll look. So I'm going to machine a cap and then use a counter sunk fastener for the top.





I think constructing it this way will allow me to do a complete mock up and confirm any droop. If I do they I can compensate for it if I do before I weld it to the inside of the bumper. I'll also use a couple set screws on the pivot bar so if something were to happen to it, it can be replaced without much drama.

 

[LXCam]

Well that worked out alright with the exception of the rude awakening that a five thou fitment between the pivot pin and bushing leaves much to be desired. So I bored both pieces for a larger pivot and it works very well. But I did come to find that with the arm swung out the brackets to the frame flex too much with me putting about a hundred pounds of pressure on it. And my idea of bracketing internally isn't going to solve the issue where it flexes. I'll have to pull the bumper and box that whole area in. I've also changed my mind on welding the pivot receiver to anything in the bumper. I'll make some sort of adjustable piece for the bottom so I can force the angle of the pivot and compensate for the cantilevered arm then snug it down with the bottom bolt and a star washer.

 

[zmotorsports]

Too bad you can't use a bit larger sleeve and incorporate tapered bearings into the pivot. I prefer to use them as they do provide the ability to add some preload to the setup to compensate for clearances. Also like you have discovered, it is very difficult to built this as a complete bolt on using the factory rear bumper due to the lack of real estate to tie to a solid structure.

If anyone can figure it out though Cam, it will be you. Keep the pics coming.

 

[LXCam]

Too bad you can't use a bit larger sleeve and incorporate tapered bearings into the pivot. I prefer to use them as they do provide the ability to add some preload to the setup to compensate for clearances. Also like you have discovered, it is very difficult to built this as a complete bolt on using the factory rear bumper due to the lack of real estate to tie to a solid structure.

If anyone can figure it out though Cam, it will be you. Keep the pics coming.

Thanks for the vote of confidence Mike, much appreciated my friend. Now if only I could fool myself into that.

I like the tampered bearing idea though, maybe next time. If it wasn't for the fact that I'm now on the short end of the stick with our bartering deal, I'd have built a matching rear bumper. That might have been easier to create a move rigid structure for the mount. I was trying to stay clear of anything that would screw up the finish on the bumper as I didn't want to put any effort into it. Ive been battling a major cold over the last couple weeks and haven't been able to keep a clear thought. But yesterday it hit me like a ton of bricks just how ****** the overall look will be if I don't coat the bumper to match everything else...duh! I could have saved myself a little work had I not leaned towards the lazy side from the get go.

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks for the vote of confidence Mike, much appreciated my friend. Now if only I could fool myself into that.

I like the tampered bearing idea though, maybe next time. If it wasn't for the fact that I'm now on the short end of the stick with our bartering deal, I'd have built a matching rear bumper. That might have been easier to create a move rigid structure for the mount. I was trying to stay clear of anything that would screw up the finish on the bumper as I didn't want to put any effort into it. Ive been battling a major cold over the last couple weeks and haven't been able to keep a clear thought. But yesterday it hit me like a ton of bricks just how ****** the overall look will be if I don't coat the bumper to match everything else...duh! I could have saved myself a little work had I not leaned towards the lazy side from the get go.

Hey, I know what it's like pushing through not feeling up to par and your head in a fog. It flat *****. Deadlines don't give a **** about not feeling well. Hope you get feeling better my friend.

 

[LXCam]

Hey, I know what it's like pushing through not feeling up to par and your head in a fog. It flat *****. Deadlines don't give a **** about not feeling well. Hope you get feeling better my friend.

Thanks bud.

I got a couple hours in today. Got the bumper boxed in along with a bracket that bolts it to the side of the hitch. It worked out pretty decent as there's no drama removing or installing the bumper and as an added bonus this is as solid as a rock now.















Now for the rest of it.

 

[LXCam]

So believe it or not I'm at a crossroads again on where to mount the jack. I mocked it up in the vertical position and I'm not exceptionally digging it. But from an access point it's great. If I mount it horizontally one of two things need to happen. One, it goes up pretty high to clear the tire rack. Or two I push the tire rack out like 4" to create enough space behind it. Just one consideration, the owner is no spring chicken so I'm concerned about going to high.

Anybody got some input? Thnx

 

[shedfullatools]

So believe it or not I'm at a crossroads again on where to mount the jack. I mocked it up in the vertical position and I'm not exceptionally digging it. But from an access point it's great. If I mount it horizontally one of two things need to happen. One, it goes up pretty high to clear the tire rack. Or two I push the tire rack out like 4" to create enough space behind it. Just one consideration, the owner is no spring chicken so I'm concerned about going to high.

Anybody got some input? Thnx

I actually kinda dig it vertical, will be more practical. They do look great horizontal but from the side look odd since the tire is usually driven out so far for clearance. Can try lowering the mount for the jack down below the swing out arm a bit to get the top of the jack below the roofline a bit more. Maybe dropping the baseplate down to the level of the bottom of the tire or so would give it a more proportionate look. Just shooting ideas

 

[LXCam]

I actually kinda dig it vertical, will be more practical. They do look great horizontal but from the side look odd since the tire is usually driven out so far for clearance. Can try lowering the mount for the jack down below the swing out arm a bit to get the top of the jack below the roofline a bit more. Maybe dropping the baseplate down to the level of the bottom of the tire or so would give it a more proportionate look. Just shooting ideas

I like that idea. Just one stalling point but not totally dead in the tracks either. I'd have to move the rack inwards 4" to clear the bumper when open. For a small tire like it has now, it'd fit. But he's still talking gears and a big tire at some point. That mock up tire is a 35" and it's right there for fitment.

 

[LXCam]

Ya know what shed, you made me look again and if I turn the jack around and mount it down it'll both clear the light and the tire. Good idea bud!

 

[zmotorsports]

Cam, I mounted mine at an angle and it pretty much hides it completely behind the spare tire. I don't have any specific pictures of it but in the picture I have attached you can see the overall theme of the mount. Sorry it may be hard to see as I have the black Hi-Lift and the black boot on it so hopefully you can see it. Although I like this mount because it actually does hide much of the jack as I don't care for them hanging right out in the open. You can see the top of the jack is barely visible above the tire just left of center and the base of the jack is just below the right taillight yet not obstructing the taillight in the least.

Basically I attached two angled pieces of square tubing tying into the one vertical piece that holds the tire. These angled tubes serve two purposes, first they give support to the vertical structure so the tire doesn't sway side to side and secondly they provide a mounting location for my Hi-Lift jack. I simply fabricated a small 90-degree bracket in which the Hi-Lift jack sits on like a shelf but it has two 3/8" bolts protruding through, with the heads welded on the backside to be solid, and then the Hi-Lift jack slides over the two bolts through the slots in the jack and I installed large washers and nuts to firmly hold the jack in place. You could use wing nuts but I used nyloks to provide a solid and rattle free mounting. I also installed one of those neoprene boots on my Hi-Lift to keep dirt out and rattles at bay.

 

[zmotorsports]

Hey Cam, I actually found a couple of better pictures from when I built it 7 years ago.

Here is the actual bracket that bolts to the main tire carrier.

Hi-Lift jack fastened in place.

A better picture of it in the closed position.

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread with my pictures bud.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I was hoping a boot to go over the mechanism would be brought up. Seems like the back end of off-road rigs get plenty dirty and you know how that ends up with a hi-lift jack.

Also, I like the vertical mount as I think it is easier to load and unload if it is not angled. Less dinged body work and fewer smashed fingers if you just need to go straight up and park it in the holder.

I think the bottom of the holder should align at least with the departure angle though so it isn't low point in a bad situation.

 

[LXCam]

Hey Cam, I actually found a couple of better pictures from when I built it 7 years ago.

Here is the actual bracket that bolts to the main tire carrier.

Hi-Lift jack fastened in place.

A better picture of it in the closed position.

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread with my pictures bud.

You kidding Mike, hyjack one of my jumbled up threads. Not a chance in hell and once again I appreciate the input very much. I'm also very happy you did find the detail shots. I was vacillating on the mount and whether I should do a fixed position stand off or adjustable to compensate for various rim offset and or tire width. Seeing how you did the receiver style helped my decide so I'll be going by that route.

The owner finally got back to me late late late last night letting me know he's completely good with the vertical mount pretty much as is.

Last night before I closed up shop I got a more precise layout if I were to drop it lower then the bottom of the bracket and all though very doable there'd be some funkiness to it. First off the baseplate would need to finish out at the bottom of the bumper unless I were to raise the tire super high. Right now I'm trying to mount it so the bottom of a 37" tire would finish out 2" above the hitch receiver. Going higher almost completely blocks the entire back window. I know that's not an issue for the owner but still keeping it as low as possible might make it easier for someone to unload/load the spare. The other thing being able to use the windshield mounted rear view mirror. I know most of us could care less as we all use the side mirrors but ya never know, having even 4-6" of a viewing window might save someone from backing over a giant cactus.

I was hoping a boot to go over the mechanism would be brought up. Seems like the back end of off-road rigs get plenty dirty and you know how that ends up with a hi-lift jack.

Also, I like the vertical mount as I think it is easier to load and unload if it is not angled. Less dinged body work and fewer smashed fingers if you just need to go straight up and park it in the holder.

I think the bottom of the holder should align at least with the departure angle though so it isn't low point in a bad situation.

I'm glad mike showed the boot as well, I'll have to let the owner know to get one. And you bring up a very valid point about the departure angle. I highly doubt this rig will see anything remotely close to those conditions but ya never know. However it would certainly be better off if the bumper took the impact of tagging a boulder or something verses anything to do with the bracket. I do plane on moving the rubber bumpers that are attached to the rear gate to areas aligning with the upright and diagonals so there's more support to the whole rolla bolla if the spare takes an impact.


On a side note I had my boy come out to give me some input on all this. The first thing he says is ya that's cool but are you sure about that hinge. So I swung the mount out 90degrees and started bouncing the jeep around like it was a toy. Swung the thing back into place and low and behold, nothing changed shape that I could tell. Despite that bit of luck I will machine a teflon guide and resting plate so the assembly isn't under a load when in the stowed position.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Cam, I like how Mike has his. My dad's Rubicon has a WARN bumper with the jack mounted vertically with the foot hanging over the edge of the bumper and we've bent the **** out of it hanging it up on rocks.

 

[LXCam]

Cam, I like how Mike has his. My dad's Rubicon has a WARN bumper with the jack mounted vertically with the foot hanging over the edge of the bumper and we've bent the **** out of it hanging it up on rocks.

Copy that, I'll give this some thought. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[zmotorsports]

Cam, one more nugget for thought. You mentioned keeping it about 2" above the receiver hitch. If the owner plans on using his receiver to tow a small utility trailer that low may interfere with the latch on the trailer coupler. The TJ I built the bumper for last summer had that exact experience with his OEM bumper and tire mount, he couldn't latch his trailer coupler. He had asked me to give him 4" between the top of the receiver and the bottom of the tire.

You are correct that it moves the tire up and blocks the rear window but they are pretty much useless with anything over a stock tire anyhow.

Again, just a thought.

 

[LXCam]

Cam, one more nugget for thought. You mentioned keeping it about 2" above the receiver hitch. If the owner plans on using his receiver to tow a small utility trailer that low may interfere with the latch on the trailer coupler. The TJ I built the bumper for last summer had that exact experience with his OEM bumper and tire mount, he couldn't latch his trailer coupler. He had asked me to give him 4" between the top of the receiver and the bottom of the tire.

You are correct that it moves the tire up and blocks the rear window but they are pretty much useless with anything over a stock tire anyhow.

Again, just a thought.

Ya I thought about that but as much lift as it has he'd need a solid 6" drop hitch for a normal trailer. I'm also going the offset the tire mount to the receiver so it can sit low or be flipped 180 degrees to set high.

And just so ya know Mike. While I was at the docs office this morning I sent the owner your pictures. He literally just let me know as I was typing this response he wants it diagonal. So a total win my friend. Thanks again.

 

[zmotorsports]

Ya I thought about that but as much lift as it has he'd need a solid 6" drop hitch for a normal trailer. I'm also going the offset the tire mount to the receiver so it can sit low or be flipped 180 degrees to set high.

And just so ya know Mike. While I was at the docs office this morning I sent the owner your pictures. He literally just let me know as I was typing this response he wants it diagonal. So a total win my friend. Thanks again.

Glad to be of assistance Cam, but sorry it ended up in more work for ya bud.

 

[LXCam]

Glad to be of assistance Cam, but sorry it ended up in more work for ya bud.

Oh heck it's actually easier then building a shelf that drains. I'm glad he liked it.

 

[LXCam]

Annnnd I spoke too soon. Not long ago I bought a 12" stick of receiver tubing and only used 3" of it. But I'll be damned if I can find the the other piece. The upside is I did find that piece of 1-1/2" solid bar. And if I grind off the corners it fits in the 2" square 1/4" wall tubing I have plenty of. Darn the bad luck

 

[LXCam]

Little progress. I ended up making the spare carrier out of 1/4" plate with 1-1/4" x 3/16" wall and the receiver from 2" x 3/16" wall. Little loose but I'll fix that. I also offset the mount so you have three inches of difference. That put the bottom of a 33" tire right at the top of the bumper in the lower position. And both the receiver and the mount are run wild for now. I'll cut those down after I finish the jack mount. Then I mocked up the jack to see what looked the best. As low as I could go or at a 45. I'm thinking if I spray bombed it black like Mikes, it'd look waaay better
















And once again thanks for you guys input, much appreciated

 

[WoodsTruck]

Will the Jeep be used in sand, mud or snow?

Any reason to think about incorporating a mount for a jack base on the backside of the structural triangle?