To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

House furnace troubles

jimindm

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2011
Messages
2,398
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
A year ago July we had an out side central air unit give up, and we had a new furnace and AC unit installed. We have an older two story home and looking and talking to contractors decided on Rheem units. Multi speed fan and outputs, dependent on needed load.

Now I do not know about the original installer. Seemed like he knew what was going on, talked the same talk as others who came and sort of told us what we needed. Condensate pump and thermostat was all part of it.

As the installer was installing it, it installed like most, but when it came to sort of fine tuning it, he commented that he was just not that knowledgeable about it and would get through it.

Right after installation I called about the blower speed did not seem to ramp up enough. They came out and agreed that it did not seem to blow sufficiently and changed something in the controls. It worked great for cooling.

Winter came and it again worked great. You never really heard it on, but our house was overall just more comfortable. Did not matter whether you were in the basement or the second floor.

So thank giving time last year. House heats up to 90 degrees. Dealt with that a few days until they can come. It was the thermostat. The new one they installed at the time they did the unit.

This summer the outside unit starts sounding like an arc welder. Lights dim and finally it shuts off. It was hot out, but again waited a few days and out come the guy. He gets out of the truck and asks if I have replaced the filters, and cleaned the outside unit. I told him I am good about the filters, but had not done anything with the outside unit.

Now I am no HVAC tech, but I am not clueless either. I had thought about the outside unit being dirty. I would even say that it did have sort of have a pollen dirt filled sweater on it. But it did still move leaves on the trees, 20 ft above it, when on.

He was by himself and I was sort of helping him remove the cage of the unit and cleaning it out. I even mentioned to him that while there was a sweater on it, it certainly moved a lot of air, and I thought he maybe wrong on his diagnosis. He went on to say that if I would have had them come do there summer service this would have all been done including a furnace filter.

Well we got it back together and he topped it off with just a shot of freon. They really had not been back since it was installed, and it was apart of the summer service.

Worked great a few hours and back to dimming lights and arcing sound. I actually made a video on my cell phone and called again. It was late that day but he returned. At which point he headed to the furnace and said something was interrupting the outside unit operation. He found the condensate pump bad.

He asked why it had mud in it is and sort of asked how deep the water was in our basement. Not a bad thought as we do live next to a river, and it had been higher than usual. Normally our sump pump would have been running but they were installing a deep sewer line behind our home. That contractor had wells dug and pumps of their own, running for weeks, to drop the water table enough for them to do their work. Our sump basins did not get a drop of water in them.

I told him since it was all new during the install, what ever was in there came from the equipment he installed the year before. He said that it was to late and the place they get the pumps was closed. I told him I would run to the box store and get one. I figured at that point, I wanted cool AC and the pump may or may not even be warrantied.

I went and got one, and while I was gone, the wife commented that he was in the basement and asked if she could cycle the thermostat. She did and pretty soon he was up and was replacing it, while I was gone. When I got back, it was well into the evening, and he put the pump on and everything worked well.

The last few weeks, there are times the house just feels cold. Kind of just thought it was me and for the most part it sounded like everything was working ok. Yesterday we got up to the house at 62. the furnace sort of started, but never really fired off. Having never really went through and set the thermostat that he installed a few months ago, I went through and set all of the times and programmed it, and also replaced the batteries. It worked the rest of the day. Went to bed last night and it was 72. Which is where I set every setting that morning.

Woke up this morning and its 64. Again furnace is sort of coming on, not firing and shutting down. It appears the thermostat is commanding heat. I went to the furnace and it seems to be flashing a code. Looked in the owners book and the code is for venting. I looked at the outside pipes and they appear to be clear. It list several other causes including sensors and control boards.

That brings me up to my question. At this point I think it is something with the furnace. I am not going to freeze to death tonight, so I will deal with it in the morning. The company that installed it does heating and cooling, along with being an electrical contractor. I sort of think the heating and cooling is sort of a side deal with him, as he has a fleet of electric trucks, but only one HVAC truck-guy.

At this point I maybe questioning the the ability of the service guy. Every trip he has made it seems that he knew what was wrong when he got out of the truck, to find out he was wrong in the end, the sort of trying to push it off on us. Then throw in he never seems to know what the cost is, is always going to work it out and send a bill. Which come several months later and we have to call and work through that.

While the problems in the past appear not to be the units themselves, but the add ons that go with the installation. I get that you need to let the guy make it right, and I think I have.

Is it now time to call some one else? Someone that is an installer for Rheem products. I think the units are still under warranty of some sort, would that warranty carry over to another service company that deals with Rheem products.

The house will no doubt get colder as time passes. A new company may not want to service me very timely, if they did not sell the units in the first place. I am sure or would think I would sort of be at the top of the service pile at the original guy.

What would you do.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

DieselNut88

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 14, 2016
Messages
453
Location
Northern,IL
I would find a new company. Also the a/c condensor does need to be cleaned at least 4 times a season. This is to remove debri including cottonwood seeds, grass, and dirt. It makes a huge differance in performance and heat transfer. Just because the fan is running means nothing.
 

6768rogues

Banned
Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
4,524
Location
Western NY
No idea what is wrong with it other than an idiot technician. My old condenser had the coils exposed behind a series of wire like bars that formed the cage. It was easy to clean the coils but they were exposed and fortunately never got damaged. My new unit has its cage made from sheet metal with louvers stamped in, protecting the coils better than the old one but making it so I would have to remove the housing to clean it. I wrapped one layer of window screen around it and I clean it every couple of weeks, as that is easier than taking it apart.
 

truckman5000

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
1,440
programmable thermostat on program, but on a default "temporary" that defaults the program setting after whatever certain time via- thermostat brand? Hit "hold" select temp.

A variable system ( at least in new england old homes) wont ramp to the full "blow" / blow the blower motor, but besides that the duct work may not be sized properly. More or less you may need more return air......look up your unit model # and look at specifications. Say 1,000 cfm furnace needs to flow 1,000 cfm on high drive
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

truckman5000

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
1,440
No idea what is wrong with it other than an idiot technician. My old condenser had the coils exposed behind a series of wire like bars that formed the cage. It was easy to clean the coils but they were exposed and fortunately never got damaged. My new unit has its cage made from sheet metal with louvers stamped in, protecting the coils better than the old one but making it so I would have to remove the housing to clean it. I wrapped one layer of window screen around it and I clean it every couple of weeks, as that is easier than taking it apart.

Its a common sense thing, if its located 5ft from a dirt road/ you blow all the grass clippings into the unit, yah, ...
Its like a car radiator, if its on your roof where no **** can get into it, its fine forever.
Im a hvac guy, i have 4 units along my grass.Every year when their off i hose th coils. But alot off them run for 15 years without doing that.
Your problem is a low voltage / thermostat issue, system isnt old enough to have a "service issue"

Howd the old system work? and re-trace steps- new system needs 2 stage heat? but existing thermostat wires 4- wire/ not enough wire for 2nd stage/ program in thermostat/ or dip switch on furnace board not set for whatever is going on
 
OP
J

jimindm

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2011
Messages
2,398
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
Well I have no idea about how many wires are in the thermostat or cfm and duct work.

What the company sold me has worked great when it works. As I said it does not seem to be the units that have a problem so far, but the add ons that are company supplied for the system has been the problem.

My new outside unit is now sort of caged up, and would require some disassembly to clean it out. That is why I helped him do it. See how it comes apart and how he did it.

I did get the owners manual out and there is a diagnostic section. The control board has an LED readout and it is reading a number 45. Looking at the troubleshooting for a code 45 it is all about the venting. We only have an exhaust vent. The intake is right off the furnace in a very large room of basement. 30x30 maybe.

We did an addition with a full basement and finished the ceiling. At that time when we replaced the furnace to a bigger unit the installers just put the exhaust out the side. Before we bought the new replacement furnace this time that is one question I asked was about needing an intake to the outside. Three different companies said it would be ideal, but as big of an area the furnace was in, it would be OK.

I went out and there is nothing in the exhaust, no blockages as far as I can see with a flashlight. I would have thought that if it was blocked somehow it likely would have never fired off yesterday.

The more I have thought about it I think it is a furnace issue now. I am thinking at this point I will call another company, as long as they can and will honor the warranty.

It is not cold cold here now, but by the middle of the week it is supposed to be down to single digits at night. Hopefully a new company can get me looked at and going on Monday. If it is going to be more than a few days, I may have to get the original guys back. I will just have to start making phone call in the morning.
 

LS6 Tommy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
Cleaning condenser coils is normal PM work. "Topping off" the refrigerant is not. If your system was truly low and the tech wasn't just guesstimating, it was either undercharged at the installation (not very likely) or you have a leak.

Tommy
 
Last edited:

danski0224

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2005
Messages
13,491
Location
Near Naperville, IL
I did get the owners manual out and there is a diagnostic section. The control board has an LED readout and it is reading a number 45. Looking at the troubleshooting for a code 45 it is all about the venting. We only have an exhaust vent. The intake is right off the furnace in a very large room of basement. 30x30 maybe.

At that time when we replaced the furnace to a bigger unit the installers just put the exhaust out the side.

Some equipment is not tolerant of the intake and exhaust pipes being in different pressure zones- although this is less of an issue now than many years ago.

There is probably some sort of restrictor that goes onto the intake side if the venting is less than a specified length. This will be in the kneepads, oops, installation instructions, and it would have been included in the extra parts bag. It is also possible that the exhaust has too many elbows, pipe is too small or the run is too long. Again, venting is covered in detail in the kneepads. Condensate trap itself or the piping could be another issue, again covered in the kneepads.

Bigger furnace and no duct changes? Not good. The ductwork was probably undersized before, and it is most certainly undersized now.

If you are using any type of pleated air filter, remove it and install a plain fiberglass version. I'd bet that your air filter is undersized and the TESP is high.

The pollen sweater is not good.

The AC unit probably isn't charged properly.
 
OP
J

jimindm

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2011
Messages
2,398
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
Not sure ducting is an issue. Ten years ago we added on 1500 square feet. Two story and a single story room clear across the whole back of the house and full basements under the new. All of the new had duct work that was recommended at the time for the furnace that we installed then.

The old is still what is left of the old gravity fed furnace that was in the house when we bought it. We tore the furnace out and used that ducting. Fresh air is large 4x6 grate through out the home and conditioned air is mostly full wall cavities, with large 3-4 foot ducting in the basement.

The new furnace takes a 5 in wide filter. I have never seen them not pleated. Of coarse I have never looked for them from a supply house, just the big box stores. Upon installation of the new units they recommended changing them twice a year. I have been doing them about every two months

In the end the trouble code in the furnace was for venting. I could see the switches were marked at what pressures they open and closed at. It seemed they wanted to see about .050 of pressure. I have nothing that would measure that with any accuracy. All of my gauges just did not seem very much, for that kind of reading. I ended up teeing in a catalytic converter back pressure gauge, it was not much of a sweep, but more than I had with anything else.

I pulled the out side vent free at the furnace and it did not move. At this point I thought it would just be better to call someone.

I did call a different company, other than the ones that installed it and have been here before. They will be able to do any work on it and since it was registered with rheem, I still will have full warranty on parts.

The service guy basically did what I did, other than he had a pretty precise meter to measure the pressure. He put both pressure switches in and it has been fine since he left.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom