Acceptable to increase well pressure tank pressure?

[TT_Vert]

And if so, to what degree. I decided today to put a prefilter in since I had particulate clog my water softener mechanism the other day. Before I continue, I did not design this system . It goes from the pressure vessel 1" for about 10' where it Tees off. One end of Tee is capped and the other is 3/4". It goes about 3/4" about 40' to the softener where I today put in a prefilter. I am using an omnimax housing (10GPS max) 10x4.5" RS6 filter (30 micron/10GPH) to the softener. Out of the softener it is goes up to a fitting which increases the size back to 1" to feed the house. Right out of the softener it is going through another omnimax housing (10GPS max) to a CB6 (1 micron/5GPH) which was recommended by omnimax. I have noticed my pressure is reduced at this point.

PRIOR to this, I just had one RO6 (5 micron/5GPH) in the filter that was post softener and that is what I am judging my good pressure on. It's far from horribly but it isn't what it was.

My pressure valve is set to on at 40 off ~57 psi. I have no problem getting a higher psi switch if that'll fix the problem. I also believe I need to adjust the bladder pressure when doing so correct?

This is a 3,000 sq ft single level home. Two 75 gallon hot water heaters and only one faucet at a utility sink downstairs which seems to have good pressure.

Thanks much guys

Dave

 

[raferguson]

The first thing that you need to do is learn what your actual pressure is. If you don't know what your pressure is, you are just guessing.

You need to know your pressure on both sides of those filters. If in fact the pressure is normal at the tank, run different amounts of flow and see what the pressure difference is.

As far as adjusting the pressure switch, I would not consider that without pressure gauges. I would put in a permanent gauge to monitor the tank pressure, especially if the "off" pressure is near the rated pressure for the tank.

 

[TT_Vert]

Just checked 40 on, 57 off at tank gauge. What do you mean "run different amounts of flow" My max tank pressure is 100 psi, switch is good to 220 psi it says.

Dave

 

[raferguson]

If you know your tank pressure, you have some information. Those numbers sound reasonable to me. Anything over 60 psi is probably not a great idea.

https://www.horizonservices.com/blog/2010/february/what-is-the-right-water-pressure-for-your-home-/

What you need to know is what the pressure is downstream of the various filters. It sounds like you have a filter before and after the softener, so you have three possible sources of pressure drop, in addition to the pipes themselves. So even if you decide that your pressure drop is too much, you don't know where the problem is.

Pressure drop is typically a function of flow rate, gallons per minute. If you are just washing your hands, that is a lower flow than if you are taking a shower. I would expect lower pressure at higher flows. What you need to know is what the faucet pressure is at zero flow, low flow (Say, 1 gallon per minute), and at higher flow. You can easily measure flow with a bucket or pan and a stopwatch. You might be able to hook up a pressure gauge to the drain for the hot water heater, which might be simpler than tearing into your plumbing.

A diagram of your plumbing system might be helpful.

 

[TT_Vert]

Thanks I'll look into that. i can draw something up but the way i described it pretty much sums it up. The pressure was fine until I made two changed. Does anyone make some type of inline gauge for plumbing fixtures? I'd have to have the gauge inline to measure pressure while also generating flow.

FWIW these are all 10x4.5" filters, not the 10x2.5" ones.




1. Removed a RO6 filter (5 micron/5GPH) and replaced it w/ a CB6 (1 micron/5GPH)
2. Added a sediment filter (30 micron/10GPH)

So with that I have to assume it's a restriction due to the reduced flow because of the new filter setup. With that said both were supposedly 5GPH filters. The 10GPH sediment filter probably should have a minimal effect on anything.

Why is it a bad idea to increase pressure if both the switch and tank can handle it? So long as the plumbing fixtures can handle it (I assume they can as my goal is to get the pressure back to where it was pre filter mods.

My only concern is the well pump pressure. I don't want to damage it but I'd think an additional 10PSI would not do that.

 

[TT_Vert]

Do you have more than just the 1 micron filter? I figured at 5GPM i'd be fine. I suppose I need to see if I can find an inline type of gauge to determine my actual pressure at the faucets. The problem is, my faucets which don't use as much volume and therefor won't exhibit the pressure loss as bad are fine so testing them may not help as even at wide open they are still good. It's my big shower and hot tub (Same bathroom) that seem to be a bit down on pressure and I have no way to test them easily.

 

[TT_Vert]

Pressure at the faucet is easy enough.
It's a 6 dollar item that fits on a hose bib.
Until I bought the digital one lived on the Bible at the bottom of my pressure tank.
In line and checking pressure while it's passing through, I don't know how to do.
But You can use the Bib kind and open a far distant valve and see what happens.


I have two seperate systems because I have two seperate collectors.
One has

A 25 micron catch all
A five micron
A carbon filter
A uv light.
A water meter
A digital box that converts the mechanical water meter to pulse so I can build a spread sheet... I've not used it yet.


The other is a 5 micron
A 25 micron wrap to 1 micron progressive.

I have a point 22 micron that is hospital termed as sterile, but I don't use it.
all are big blue 20's except the 25 micron which is a small metal mesh screen like in a coffee filter.

We have a nine stage ro for drinking water.

Take your shower head off and drill out that damn stupid water saver stuff in it. Mine are all half inch sized now. A world of difference. It's easy to figure out, drill till you hit the face of the head and stop before you bust through.
A half inch drive bit and 30 seconds might cure it all.

Do you mean to check pressure at the outside hose? I've seen those but i'd like to see pressure at each point individually if possible. I do have a pressure gauge right at my pressure tank so adding one to the drain there would be redundant obviously.

Thanks, my shower is a bit atypical. I'll just take a pic as I cannot explain it. It has jets from ceiling and 2 on each side for front/back or for two people. independent controls also. Generally when I shower i use all the jets that shoot out on both sides and the one above my head on one side. Pressure has always been great and is still decent but not as good as It wass. I do notice a very slight pressure reduction when I turn them all on so I really think it's more a pressure issue than a volume issue but I've been wrong before.


Did some flow testing as I don't have the ability to test pressure right now. I didn't bother testing the other bathrooms.

basement Utility sink (shortest feed) 1.18 GPM
Kitchen faucet ( 2nd shortest) .85 GPM
Garage utility faucet (3rd shortest) 2.32 GPM
2nd master tub (4th shortest) 1.53 GPM
Master sink (5th shortest) .93 GPM
Master hot tub (Longest run) 1.44 GPM

 

[larry4406]

First I am not a plumber so take this with a grain of salt.

At my previous house, I adjusted the Welltrol pressure switch and changed it from its normal 40-60 psi range to 55-75 psi. I then adjusted the bladder tank air pressure to 2 psi below the new cut in pressure. I had a very large expansion tank, 60-80 gallon range (it was huge). The large expansion tank helped to reduce the pump cycle time via a longer draw down period.

You have a water softener and it recently was defeated due to pluggage. Have you cleaned out the various aerators and screens at the point of use? Ducksface alludes to this by instructing you to defeat the shower low flow device.

I agree you need to have pressure gauges to monitor what you are doing. I did mine solely using the pressure gauge at the tank.

I recently managed the construction of a new home (municipal water service) where the customer had a ********* master shower with several shower heads and body sprays; similar in appearance to yours. The pressure regulator in the municipal supply is factory set at approximately 50-55 psi. Downstream of this, the plumber installed a Grundfos SCALA2 constant pressure booster pump to ensure the master shower sprays all functioned properly with all devices on at the same time. The booster pump can be set to as high as 80 psi which is where the customer has it set. The booster bump is plumbed to serve the whole house. Link to the unit we used (ours was a simple 20A 120V plugin model).
https://us.grundfos.com/products/find-product/SCALA2.html

If you used the booster pump, I would think it should go downstream of all water treatment devices.

 

[matt_i]

I think you need either parallel filtration for your super-fine filters or a model that uses double-deep cannister (essentially same).

As far as the unbalanced flow between two discrete but identical filters, the one with slightly lower restriction would get slightly more flow, but then over time due to increased particle accumulation (the flow integrated over time more or less), be better matched to the other one.

Running the well pump "harder" to higher psi doesn't sound directionally correct for longevity.

 

[TT_Vert]

First I am not a plumber so take this with a grain of salt.

At my previous house, I adjusted the Welltrol pressure switch and changed it from its normal 40-60 psi range to 55-75 psi. I then adjusted the bladder tank air pressure to 2 psi below the new cut in pressure. I had a very large expansion tank, 60-80 gallon range (it was huge). The large expansion tank helped to reduce the pump cycle time via a longer draw down period.

You have a water softener and it recently was defeated due to pluggage. Have you cleaned out the various aerators and screens at the point of use? Ducksface alludes to this by instructing you to defeat the shower low flow device.

I agree you need to have pressure gauges to monitor what you are doing. I did mine solely using the pressure gauge at the tank.

I recently managed the construction of a new home (municipal water service) where the customer had a ********* master shower with several shower heads and body sprays; similar in appearance to yours. The pressure regulator in the municipal supply is factory set at approximately 50-55 psi. Downstream of this, the plumber installed a Grundfos SCALA2 constant pressure booster pump to ensure the master shower sprays all functioned properly with all devices on at the same time. The booster pump can be set to as high as 80 psi which is where the customer has it set. The booster bump is plumbed to serve the whole house. Link to the unit we used (ours was a simple 20A 120V plugin model).
https://us.grundfos.com/products/find-product/SCALA2.html

If you used the booster pump, I would think it should go downstream of all water treatment devices.

The filter wasn't clogged, it was just somehow pulling any softness from the water, never any pressure reduction. The issue was years of minor sediment in the head of the softener getting into the softener head that needed to be cleaned out. It was all cleaned out and rebuilt. There was no pressure change at all until the new filter was added so i'm 99% sure the issue is not w/ the lines themselves and the filter that was added.

If you look at the pic of my shower (One of the places I noticed slightly lower pressure) there isn't much of anything I can clean out. And again if it was an aerator at a faucet I'd assume it would not happen all the sudden and it wouldn't be multiple faucets having the issue at the same time.

I think you need either parallel filtration for your super-fine filters or a model that uses double-deep cannister (essentially same).

As far as the unbalanced flow between two discrete but identical filters, the one with slightly lower restriction would get slightly more flow, but then over time due to increased particle accumulation (the flow integrated over time more or less), be better matched to the other one.

Running the well pump "harder" to higher psi doesn't sound directionally correct for longevity.

There would have to be some major reconstruction of my plumbing to do either parallel or a double filter setup. I would think parallel filtration would be pointless as half the water is not going through the fine filtration.

 

[TT_Vert]

I think you need either parallel filtration for your super-fine filters or a model that uses double-deep cannister (essentially same).

As far as the unbalanced flow between two discrete but identical filters, the one with slightly lower restriction would get slightly more flow, but then over time due to increased particle accumulation (the flow integrated over time more or less), be better matched to the other one.

Running the well pump "harder" to higher psi doesn't sound directionally correct for longevity.

They would not be the same filters, I have two different types of filters but I understand what you are saying about doubling up the housings to double flow rate. My current filters are both 5GPH so I'm not sure that'd make a difference anyway. Beyond that, the filter that was in place prior to this with good pressure was a 5 micron 5GPH filter which didn't restrict pressure/flow so I'm going to assume 5GPH is not a restriction I notice. And from research many filters flow 2-3GPH or less on occasion so 5GPH shouldn't be much of a restriction.

I do have the ability to bypass the 30 micron sediment pre-filter, I may do that as a test.

Dave

 

[tonyciambrone]

Disregard that manufacturers claims on flow rate. Unless you are shown a flow chart/ curve it is meaningless. Carbon filters in general don't flow well.
A carbon filter to 1 micron probably won't flow well at all. I don't understand the need to filter the whole house to 1 micron

You're also using your most expensive, most flow restricting filter to do the lion's share of the work. Most of the particulate in your system is probably between 30 micron and 1 micron. So it goes right through your pleated filter, onto the carbon block and "flashes" or "blinds" off your cartridge. Meaning the outer layer gets completely saturated with everything between 1 and 30 micron and stops flowing very well at all. If you have a lot of particulate bigger than 30 micron I would have put in a spin down filter with say 400 mesh.

The best way to figure it out would have been to install pressure gauges on the inlet and outlet of each filter housing. Then you can use differential pressure to see if anything is causing a restriction. Simple but less effective way now is to remove the carbon filter and see how much better the pressure and flow get.

I would also try bypassing the softener and seeing what that does to flow and pressure since it doesn't seem certain your softener is functioning as intended.

 

[TT_Vert]

Disregard that manufacturers claims on flow rate. Unless you are shown a flow chart/ curve it is meaningless. Carbon filters in general don't flow well.
A carbon filter to 1 micron probably won't flow well at all. I don't understand the need to filter the whole house to 1 micron

You're also using your most expensive, most flow restricting filter to do the lion's share of the work. Most of the particulate in your system is probably between 30 micron and 1 micron. So it goes right through your pleated filter, onto the carbon block and "flashes" or "blinds" off your cartridge. Meaning the outer layer gets completely saturated with everything between 1 and 30 micron and stops flowing very well at all. If you have a lot of particulate bigger than 30 micron I would have put in a spin down filter with say 400 mesh.

The best way to figure it out would have been to install pressure gauges on the inlet and outlet of each filter housing. Then you can use differential pressure to see if anything is causing a restriction. Simple but less effective way now is to remove the carbon filter and see how much better the pressure and flow get.

I would also try bypassing the softener and seeing what that does to flow and pressure since it doesn't seem certain your softener is functioning as intended.

I don't know that I need to filter to 1 micron. I spoke to the manuf. of my filter housing (omni filter) and they recommended this filter. This is what they said and why I had to use this particular type of filter. They offer filters w/ a TO (taste/oder), CB (carbon block) and RS (sediment). They only offer one filter which she recommends (CB). I'm all ears if someone has a different type of filter that will work well on a well w/ a softener which flows better. Taking the identical advertised flow rate out of it, my old filter was 5 micron vs. 1 micron of the new one.

My question:

Lisa why do you prefer the Carbon block over the TO filter? Can you tell me what fictional difference there is between the two?

Her response:

TO (Taste & odor) are usually carbon wrapped filter which mainly contain cellulose paper & either a carbon powder or thin sheets of carbon in them. Not a good choice ever for well water since the bacteria from a well can adhere to the cellulose paper and cause a "rotten egg" type of odor, create a black slime on the filter or break the filter down. They work ok on city supply water but a solid carbon block type of filter is always better and will last longer.

As a side note, I did get this black slime in the filter housing and, after replacing the filter, out of the taps for about 20 seconds until it all flushed out.


BTW, why do you think my softener is not operating properly? I had them come out and rebuild the head and test it. Water is now 0 grains as it should be.

Dave

 

[TT_Vert]

I hate to ask the op since his is a well thought out post and he's very aware, so don't think less of me please:

Is there a piece of half inch pipe that has somehow snuck into the system?
If you have a single portion, no matter how short, the flow is now based on half inch and nothing bigger.
I just bought a 5/8 hose on amazon.
The ends have a restriction that is maybe 3/8th's at best.
It's 3/8" hose and I'll not be easily convinced differently.

A pressure drop could be from the smaller volume and of course goes to the set pressure when the bigger line finally fills up due to closure or back pressure.

Just a problem I run into on damn near every hose I touch and many fittings.
I have even had to drill out stupid hose end gaskets.

Just a thought about something that changes my flow from 8gpm to 11gpm, by just aligning gaskets and changing sweeps from tight 90 to big sweeps.

Or

The interior volume of all those pipes in that shower are having a tough time being filled and kept filled by your supply line.
If all those spray holes equal a three inch pipe and you're feeding with a 3/4", you'll never get the pressure you seek without a booster pump, that may not get enough flow from your feed and pulse badly because of this.

I can't use a boost pump because it ***** the flow right out of my 3/4" pipe, then runs, then stops and waits for more water.

Please ask away, you won't offend me. I can easily miss things just like the next guy. I do have a bit of knowledge on flow and port matching, etc. Done some head/intake porting and other random flow, velocity work so it all applies here also. The fact the problem existed right after the new filter tells me where my problem lies. I was just hoping I could increase pressure to overcome this new flow restriction of this 1 micron filter. (More info on this below)

The piping OD has not changed in any state since i noticed the change in pressure. It's 1" for a bit then 3/4" for a short run back to 1". Researching flow rates on 3/4" and 1" pipe it's well above what the filter housing can supply (10GPM) and even 1/2" has a flow rate above that of any working pressure i'd see or that my filter housing can handle.


Just as a sanity check I removed the new 1 micron filter from the housing and sure enough I'm back to normal pressure. So It appears I have two choices (3 actually but one isn't feasible) but please chime in if you see others

1. Find a filter that won't react w/ well water but still filters/flows at an acceptable volume
2. Increase pump pressure to overcome said restriction and possibly reduce well pump life
3. (Not going to happen) run two housings parallel w/ identical filters to double flow rate

Dave

 

[johninct]

I am assuming you are 40-60psi range which is plenty. I would not increase it . I had a plumber re-prime my well pump and he built up much higher pressure (I forget how high) than my 20-40 psi normal range. Within a month, I had to replace every faucet in the house. The higher pressure found every weak spot in my water system.

 

[spudley]

And I was going to suggest you may have jostled some debris inside your pipes with all the filter/water softener work but that was negated by your filter removal test. Rats.
Can you get by with a 5 micron filter in the 1 micron housing?

 

[tonyciambrone]

1. Find a filter that won't react w/ well water but still filters/flows at an acceptable volume
2. Increase pump pressure to overcome said restriction and possibly reduce well pump life
3. (Not going to happen) run two housings parallel w/ identical filters to double flow rate

Dave

BTW, why do you think my softener is not operating properly? I had them come out and rebuild the head and test it. Water is now 0 grains as it should be.

Dave

Because I didn't read the post where you explained that my bad

You have much more than three options. Go back to your old 5 micron KDF filter if it wasn't restricting flow before, it certainly shouldn't now that you added a sediment pre-filter.

Or drop the micron way down on the sediment filter, and be prepared to change it more often.

Eliminate the carbon filter altogether and just put in a 5 micron pleated.

Have your well flow tested, pressure tested, water quality analyzed, and find a chemical or mechanical treatment system to fix it, then use an RO for drinking water.

Or hire a pro and shell out the money for a properly designed system tailored to your well water. I just don't think you or most people here are that familiar with water conditioning. There's a lot of weird advice and misconceptions so far.
1 micron pleated filter will flow better than 1 micron carbon
5 micron carbon will flow better than 1 micron carbon. 1 micron #2 bag will flow better than all these. None of them will flow worth a damn if your feed water is chock full of 10 micron particles with only a 30 micron prefilter. You need more information to really get it right.

 

[tonyciambrone]

25 micron to 1 micron progressive filter.
Might be your cure.
I tape the labels from each new filter right to the filter housing... No guessing later.

Any kind of depth cartridge is progressive. From the cheapest wound polyester fiber to whatever that cartridge is. The problem here is they dont flow as well as pleated mostly because they have less surface area, and the water must travel the depth of the cartridge. Industrial filter housings commonly list two flow rates- pleated cartridges and depth cartridges.

 

[TT_Vert]

OK, since you don't mind:
I had to research if removing the cellophane was correct when installing my first filter. I thought it might be permeable.
(I removed the cellophane.)
No accusations, just letting you know what little I knew, and I may no little more now.

Have you tried a different filter cartridge in case that one is just jacked up at the factory?

I had fear of the one micron because I had always only used 5 micron. No difference to me, but I might have forgotten why you switched to one micron.

I switched because the ReStore, that a lot of people say they can't get a deal at, had them at two buck apiece for 20 of them.
I really was fine (ha!) with the fives.

i don't need that fine of filtration to be honest, it is what the lady at the filter place recommended. What was in there when we got the house was an R06 (Reduces rust and staining in sinks, toilets and showers) which is 5 micron and I'm fine with that. The thing that ***** about those is that they are nearly $50/mo and only last a month so i'd go broke in a heartbeat always replacing those. I do not know if I need a stain reducing filter as I've not had the house long and it's always had that filter but I'm open to another, higher micron, high flowing and cheaper filter if there is one available.

Because I didn't read the post where you explained that my bad

You have much more than three options. Go back to your old 5 micron KDF filter if it wasn't restricting flow before, it certainly shouldn't now that you added a sediment pre-filter.

Or drop the micron way down on the sediment filter, and be prepared to change it more often.

Eliminate the carbon filter altogether and just put in a 5 micron pleated.

Have your well flow tested, pressure tested, water quality analyzed, and find a chemical or mechanical treatment system to fix it, then use an RO for drinking water.

Or hire a pro and shell out the money for a properly designed system tailored to your well water. I just don't think you or most people here are that familiar with water conditioning. There's a lot of weird advice and misconceptions so far.
1 micron pleated filter will flow better than 1 micron carbon
5 micron carbon will flow better than 1 micron carbon. 1 micron #2 bag will flow better than all these. None of them will flow worth a damn if your feed water is chock full of 10 micron particles with only a 30 micron prefilter. You need more information to really get it right.

I may be overthinking this but how would increasing filtration (lower micron filter) in the prefilter resolve my pressure issue?

I could remove the KDF filter and just use a high flow filter but it has to be one that at least makes the water taste ok. The KDF does this and apparently this one also helps resolve staining of sinks/tubs (I assume it's an issue but I've not seen it). Right this second I'm just using the 30 micron sediment pre-filter with nothing in the post filter. I may do this for a few days and keep an eye on the water taste and see if I see any type of rust in my sinks, toilets or tubs. See any issue w/ that?

I could have well tested and perhaps that's an option as well. Are they treated directly at the well? How often?

I have to assume this system was designed for this well as the house was build at the time the well was drilled. Any reason i would not be?


Any suggestions on filters?

Dave

 

[larry4406]

Wells are drilled. Residential wells are tested for potability - yes or no for bacteria only. Some counties specify a minimum acceptable yield (eg 3 gpm) as often do banks for construction loans.

Water quality (turbidity, taste, smell, minerals, particulates, hardness, radon, arsenic, ...) not relevant to yes or no regarding potability.

County health department cares about potability only. Quality the end user is on his own. Thus you are chasing a quality issue.

Different story if the well is to be used for commercial (non-residential purposes). I had a project to develop a commercial complex served by a drilled well. Because of the number of employees served we had to create our own licensed “Water Works” and are licensed by the state, no different than that of a water company. In this case, State very concerned over quality and potability.

If you are lucky a competent firm tested your well for quality and designed a system to suite.

 

[DieselNut88]

Check out Mcmaster Carr for a large selection of filters. If the one you installed is a 2.5x10 you have a lot of choices. Also look at Filtersfast.com they have good prices.

 

[Pruittx2]

I replaced my house built 40 gallon pressure tank with an 80 gallon unit, when the bladder failed in my old one. At that time, I put in 2 DuPont whole house filter systems. 1st I run the paper 20 micron filter,, 2nd unit has a 5 micron carbon wrap filters. Then it goes to my softner. I adjusted the pressure tanks air pressure while empty to 35psi, and then set the kick on pressure to 40 and kick off at 68psi. This is pressure at the tank gauge. I change out filters quarterly, I've gone 6 months before, but after the change I noticed the higher pressure, as it had slowly went down. Water pressure is great, and taste is awesome for well water.

 

[TT_Vert]

Check out Mcmaster Carr for a large selection of filters. If the one you installed is a 2.5x10 you have a lot of choices. Also look at Filtersfast.com they have good prices.

Thanks I'll look. Both are 10x4.5

Dave

 

[tonyciambrone]

I could remove the KDF filter and just use a high flow filter but it has to be one that at least makes the water taste ok. See any issue w/ that?

My concern is that you are drinking water of unknown quality. Bacterial content in wells can change. Heavy metals, VOC's, sulfites, nitrites, Iron bacteria, lead, etc none of these are good to drink and you're not testing or treating any of them.

I could have well tested and perhaps that's an option as well. Are they treated directly at the well? How often?
Water conditioning is almost always inside the house using chemical feed or some form of mechanical treatment I.E UV, microfiltration / reverse osmosis

I have to assume this system was designed for this well as the house was build at the time the well was drilled. Any reason i would not be?

Because it is ROI negative for a builder to spend any more money on water treatment than the Gov requires. People who have put wells in usually don't spring for it either. But uh, second only to air water is the most important part of your life.


Any suggestions on filters?

If you aren't going to have your well tested or treat your feed water, please at least put in a 4 or 5 stage RO, with a booster pump if necessary for your drinking/cooking water. Don't forget you absorb a bunch of water showering too. I distribute equipment for a living so I'd rather not recommend specific manufacturers. Go for someone who actually manufacturers the product, and choose based off the cost of replacement cartridges. If the sediment filter and the pre-membrane carbon cartridges are changed regularly, the membrane will have a good lifespan, especially since, for now, you do not feed chlorine into your water. As far as if you want good smelling water for the rest of the house, GAC or KDF is probably a better choice than a 'carbon block'. Those are really intended for removing chlorine from city water, and since you have untreated well water, not the best. Go for higher micron rating and higher flow.

 

[TractorJeff]

They would not be the same filters, I have two different types of filters but I understand what you are saying about doubling up the housings to double flow rate. My current filters are both 5GPH so I'm not sure that'd make a difference anyway. Beyond that, the filter that was in place prior to this with good pressure was a 5 micron 5GPH filter which didn't restrict pressure/flow so I'm going to assume 5GPH is not a restriction I notice. And from research many filters flow 2-3GPH or less on occasion so 5GPH shouldn't be much of a restriction.

I do have the ability to bypass the 30 micron sediment pre-filter, I may do that as a test.

Dave

Has anyone noticed OP states "GPH"?
I hope this is a typo?
Anyways not a Shower Expert but I would assume that each head is rated for 2 GPM. As you have 4 heads, your flow rate would need to be 8 GPM.
This you will never get out of a 5 GPM Filter.
Also if it was my setup, I wouldn't want a pile of sediment in my pressure tank so I would have put the filters after the pump before the tank. In my theory all my components would be getting clean water.

 

[TT_Vert]

I was under the impression (based on info I was given from the water softener company that came out) that the well qualities did not change much. I think I will have the well tested. I assume I can just google well testing companies? Is this a complicated process or just a matter of taking a sample to a lab for analysis?

As of right now I'm just running my RS6 30 micron pleated pre filter (removed the 1 micron post due to flow restriction) and water tastes/smells fine but that could change I suppose. I got a bit of info on my water from an older invoice from my water softener company and sent it to omnifilter (Maker of my filter housings) and they recommended an RS22 pre filter and a T08.

Sorry for the unit of measure, it should be GPM. I'm used to fuel pumps which are rated in GPH or LPH usually.

Dave

 

[TLCObsession]

As has been said before - You need to see the pressure drop across your filters. My system has the pressure on the tank, going into the backwash filter and then going into the fine filter and one more at the UV sterilizer. I can tell when my filters need to be changed or if I need to change the backwash frequency based on pressure drop across the filters.

 

[tonyciambrone]

I was under the impression (based on info I was given from the water softener company that came out) that the well qualities did not change much. I think I will have the well tested. I assume I can just google well testing companies? Is this a complicated process or just a matter of taking a sample to a lab for analysis?

https://www.groundwater.org/get-informed/basics/testing.html

http://suburbanlabs.com/

Call someone like this and they will tell your how to take sample/ where to send it. Depending on the results you may be able to figure out how to remedy whatever issues there are, or you may choose to get a contractor out who does water conditioning for a living

Also for anyone interested there is a pretty notable groundwater issue in nearby Wedron IL
https://19january2017snapshot.epa.gov/il/wedron-groundwater-site-wedron-illinois_.html

From a gas station in service fom 1920-1977. Nobody noticed any issues until 1982. The issue is still ongoing today. All kinds of things can cause groundwater contamination, and it could have been caused years before you bought your home or before the water was tested.

 

[Showkey]

The very best thing we ever did was get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007T6O2HU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They give a 10psi swing instead of the swing you have now.
So essentially, it keeps your lower end pressure higher.
We're at 50low and 61high.


(I paid 30 bucks for mine as a warehouse deal on amazon. I don't know about other brands)

Not to derail the thread .........but........the digital pressure switch Sounds like a great idea........until you read the product reviews. 26% one star ..........with high failure rate, leaks and poor quality seem to be a common theme.

Think I will stick with a square D switch and clean the orfice every 5 or 10 years.

 

[TT_Vert]

Not to derail the thread .........but........the digital pressure switch Sounds like a great idea........until you read the product reviews. 26% one star ..........with high failure rate, leaks and poor quality seem to be a common theme.

Think I will stick with a square D switch and clean the orfice every 5 or 10 years.

Yeah I saw that and that is why I balked at that.

https://www.groundwater.org/get-informed/basics/testing.html

http://suburbanlabs.com/

Call someone like this and they will tell your how to take sample/ where to send it. Depending on the results you may be able to figure out how to remedy whatever issues there are, or you may choose to get a contractor out who does water conditioning for a living

Also for anyone interested there is a pretty notable groundwater issue in nearby Wedron IL
https://19january2017snapshot.epa.gov/il/wedron-groundwater-site-wedron-illinois_.html

From a gas station in service fom 1920-1977. Nobody noticed any issues until 1982. The issue is still ongoing today. All kinds of things can cause groundwater contamination, and it could have been caused years before you bought your home or before the water was tested.

Thanks much for the info!

As has been said before - You need to see the pressure drop across your filters. My system has the pressure on the tank, going into the backwash filter and then going into the fine filter and one more at the UV sterilizer. I can tell when my filters need to be changed or if I need to change the backwash frequency based on pressure drop across the filters.

I just purchased a hose bib pressure gauge so I'll check my spigot to see what the pressure is as two of them do pass through the filters. I only have one gauge at the pressure tank but I may consider soldering in a tee post filters to compare the two moving forward.

Dave

 

[TT_Vert]

Ok did some quick testing. The pressure tank max pressure is 55 and reads 53 psi at my outdoor spigot w/ an RS6 pleated 30 micron pre filter and a T08 5 micron wound post filter. So a 2 PSI drop. That seems fairly decent IMO. I could increase the pressure to 60, i wonder what 5PSI would do for me? I'm fairly happy w/ this pressure throughout the house. Side note, I have a fairly new sink faucet which i don't like the flow on. The pressure seems fine when I unscrew the head of it and just have the braided line exposed. I gutted as much of the inside of the head itself as there was a check valve of some sort that I thought could be reducing flow. There is a small plastic pre filter which I cleaned but also removed an tested it had no affect. Ditto the aerator. I feel the passages are just too small to allow higher flow. Does anyone make a faucet that does not have what appears to be a water pressure reducing setup? My wife would really like the higher pressure and at times I would also. This is what I have now. It says flow is limited to 1.5 GPH @60 psi.

Dave

 

[larry4406]

I would not be running exterior faucets thru any conditioning devices personally. Why load up filters while watering the lawn?

 

[TT_Vert]

I would not be running exterior faucets thru any conditioning devices personally. Why load up filters while watering the lawn?

I didn't design it nor do I use the spigot nearly enough for it to become an issue

 

[Pruittx2]

I would not be running exterior faucets thru any conditioning devices personally. Why load up filters while watering the lawn?

our house is set up that way also,, but thankfully, I also have a spigot right at the pressure tank,, that is pre filters/softener. I run a hose up out of the crawl space with a shut off at the end of it, to use for watering the lawn, car wash ect.

 

[TT_Vert]

our house is set up that way also,, but thankfully, I also have a spigot right at the pressure tank,, that is pre filters/softener. I run a hose up out of the crawl space with a shut off at the end of it, to use for watering the lawn, car wash ect.

Yes so do I. Honestly I use the softened one when using my pressure washer as it's on the driveway side.




Dave