When it does, it clicks every second and the Aux Heat light flashes until I turn it off at the thermostat. It did this a few times about a month ago after it was switched over from Heat to AC so I changed the corroded contactor. Also changed the run cap and installed a 5-2-1 hard start, cleaned condenser and checked wires. It's been ok until today when it clicked on/off again. Turned it off and turned it back on a little later and it started ok and has been working fine for the last five hours. System is 25 years old, a Tempstar 2-ton with a Goodman compressor. I'll change any other relays, sequencer, whatever to see if it helps. I'm changing the cap for the blower motor today; maybe it's out of spec. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Heat Pump clicking on & off
- Thread starter crawdad
- Start date
aunsafe2015
Well-known member
I don't have any suggestions other than that for a 25 year old heat pump I would not sink much money into trying to fix it... Might be time for a replacement.When it does, it clicks every second and the Aux Heat light flashes until I turn it off at the thermostat. It did this a few times about a month ago after it was switched over from Heat to AC so I changed the corroded contactor. Also changed the run cap and installed a 5-2-1 hard start, cleaned condenser and checked wires. It's been ok until today when it clicked on/off again. Turned it off and turned it back on a little later and it started ok and has been working fine for the last five hours. System is 25 years old, a Tempstar 2-ton with a Goodman compressor. I'll change any other relays, sequencer, whatever to see if it helps. I'm changing the cap for the blower motor today; maybe it's out of spec. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I don't expect it to last much longer but it just clicked again and I realized it was going in or coming out of defrost - fan stopped, big whoosh - so I'm going to try changing the reversing valve solenoid. There's not much to that, correct? Then there's the defrost board. Inexpensive parts. If it's the valve itself, well, r.i.p.
Richard Cranium
Well-known member
parts cannon
Trane used to call reversing valves an SOV or switchover valves..or stickover valves lol. If you suspect it has not been shifting this year you might try to free it up by tapping the ends of the body with a rubber mallet to free things up.
It's not uncommon for them to seize up a bit over the summer season when they are not being asked to cycle.
And yes, it's a pretty simple swap out...just have to get the right part with either lead-wires or spades if yours has a detachable harness.
It's not uncommon for them to seize up a bit over the summer season when they are not being asked to cycle.
And yes, it's a pretty simple swap out...just have to get the right part with either lead-wires or spades if yours has a detachable harness.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
I don't expect it to last much longer but it just clicked again and I realized it was going in or coming out of defrost - fan stopped, big whoosh - so I'm going to try changing the reversing valve solenoid. There's not much to that, correct? Then there's the defrost board. Inexpensive parts. If it's the valve itself, well, r.i.p.
If it clicks and makes that "Whooshing" noise, the reversing valve and solenoid are OK. You probably need a defrost board/defrost timer, or defrost temp/pressure sensors.
Tommy
Thanks, actually, I only heard it one time just before it failed which led me to believe it has something to do with defrost although at the time, it was 45 F outside. Then again, when it first happened was when I switched over from Cool to Heat. The other times, when the problem occurs, it's clicking on/off at the thermostat in sync with the Aux light and outside as well. I want to remove the condenser fan next time to be sure it's the valve. I suppose the compressor could make the same solid metallic clunk? It did this again a couple of hours ago and I shut off all power, tapped on the valve and it's been working ok since then. Though I can't be sure that disconnecting power, tapping on the valve, or just the fact that the system was down for 30 min, - or none of those things - got it started again. I'll call a tech soon. We're having some chilly nights in GA.
Woke up this morning to the clicking/clunking. No idea how long it was doing that. I turned it off at the thermostat and circuit breakers. Turned back on after 30 sec. and it's been fine for the past 6 hours and it did go through one successful defrost cycle.
American Locomotive
Well-known member
Aux heat comes on when the unit goes into defrost. Your unit is rapidly cycling the unit in and out of defrost. Your problem is the defrost timer/control board is acting up, or the condenser pressure/temperature sensor is bad.
American Locomotive
Well-known member
Temperature sensor yes, but if its a pressure sensor, it will likely require an HVAC professional to evacuate the charge, install a new sensor, and charge it back up.Ok, thank you. I'll have a new defrost board to install next week. Are those sensors easy to install?
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Temperature sensor yes, but if its a pressure sensor, it will likely require an HVAC professional to evacuate the charge, install a new sensor, and charge it back up.
They are usually screwed onto a service port with a schrader valve.
Tommy
finn
Well-known member
Had a similar problem with a boiler.
Traced it to a bad thermostat installation . The stat was slightly bent because the wall box face wasn’t fla and parallel with the wall, causing distortion of the stat housing when the screws were tightened.
Loosened the screws to relieve pressure on the housing and it’s been fine for ten weeks.
Traced it to a bad thermostat installation . The stat was slightly bent because the wall box face wasn’t fla and parallel with the wall, causing distortion of the stat housing when the screws were tightened.
Loosened the screws to relieve pressure on the housing and it’s been fine for ten weeks.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
That's my understanding now. And if I ever do install the pressure sensor, I think I'll just leave the original in place, unplug it, put the new one on the service port with a T fitting. Thanks.
I can't count the number of times I've done that.
Tommy