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Fixing plaster that has become seperated from latt

gygeneral

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Dec 13, 2011
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Ontario, Canada
I know about Big Wally's Plaster Magic kit, I find it expensive, but I was wondering what alternatives are there from using their product. I'm trying to stabalize plaster that has become loose or separated from the latt behind. I was going to drill holes and squeeze some contruction adhesive but I'm not sure that is the best glue, I think I need something more runny.

What do you guys do?

Thanks
 
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The Cobbler

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Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
screw it on with drywall screws & drywall over it.
virtually impossible to re attach it to (wood?) lath

once you start to play with it, it will just keep loosening . so it's not even really viable to patch it in
 

pbon

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Yes. Obviously pay attention to the plaster washer depth. You need to sink them just enough but not too much. Joint compound should be applied in multiple very thin coats. If you get good, no sanding in between. Just at the end.

If really bad, you can buy 1/4” Sheetrock and redo the ceiling or wall — right over the bad plaster and lathe. I have also stripped the plaster and lathe and put 1/2” drywall over the studs. Ideally pull baseboards and crown or chair and reinstall over the drywall if you do thus.
 
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Psychwarfare

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NJ
I've covered the washers with self adhesive fiberglass mesh joint tape and then used a few coats of drywall compound to conceal
 

cmandp

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New Jersey
With the plaster washers do you just put screws wherever (Presumably into lathe) or do you aim for studs/joists?
 
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Higgins

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Shepheardsville, KY
Here is a good tutorial on repairing plaster walls from this old house, that actuall alows you to glue the plaster to the lath.


Historically, we used SS washers and screws to secure the plaster to the lath. Then we used a plaster repair kit to top off the plaster. We didn't use drywall topping compound as it could fail over time!
 

yeldogt

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Jan 2, 2012
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I know about Big Wally's Plaster Magic kit, I find it expensive, but I was wondering what alternatives are there from using their product. I'm trying to stabalize plaster that has become loose or separated from the latt behind. I was going to drill holes and squeeze some contruction adhesive but I'm not sure that is the best glue, I think I need something more runny.

What do you guys do?

Thanks

How much of an area ?

Is the plaster cracked -- or just separated from the lath? Is the lath still attached to the framing.

Just screwing in washers is not the answer -- it can often damage other areas near by. I'm assuming the walls are painted ?

If the plaster is just loose -- drilling holes in the proper places and using a construction product will work. The best stuff was the thin product used for paneling as it would fill in and still be thin enough to squeez out -- it's harder to find now with the VOC laws.

The washers will work -- but if the wall is nice and flat -- you have to make a divot or they will sit proud. I find the setting type compound is the best if the wall has paint -- the kind you mix. Work fast and don't use too much.

I just had to do this -- lots of larger holes for the glue and small holes for the washer and screws. Remove the washers and screws .. fill all the holes w/ compound and a very thin over coat.
 
OP
G

gygeneral

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Dec 13, 2011
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Ontario, Canada
I read somewhere that PVA glue or what we know as White Glue will work good if sqeezed between the plaster and the lath.
I have a few areas about 15sf each, the plaster is not cracked just loose. Now i'm thinking of trying the white glue and maybe a few washers also.
 

Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
You could knock the plaster loose and out of the keys, get some structolite, and some finish plaster and redo it. How long has the plaster lasted? It has a texture and look that can not be replicated with drywall. Plastering is faster to boot as it doesn't take 4 sepeate coats and taping as well. The skill is not hard to learn either and repairs is where to learn.

Plenty of videos to show how on YouTube.
 

SteveCh

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Dec 21, 2012
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You could knock the plaster loose and out of the keys, get some structolite, and some finish plaster and redo it. How long has the plaster lasted? It has a texture and look that can not be replicated with drywall. Plastering is faster to boot as it doesn't take 4 sepeate coats and taping as well. The skill is not hard to learn either and repairs is where to learn.

Ultimately, if this were a house I owned, I'd just go ahead and remove any and all loose plaster and re-plaster. I'm no artist, but I've done some plastering and it isn't all that difficult. Matching the texture of the old plaster [assuming you leave any of it in place] means practicing on something besides the wall. I used some drywall pieces left over and set them up outside leaning against something to get them fairly vertical. Then my wife and I took the tools and practiced putting the plaster [or in one case, drywall compound] on those scrap pieces and swiping around on the wet plaster with drywall knives until we found what look we liked. It was kind of fun and our walls turned out quite good.
 

JRC3

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Jun 30, 2014
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Southwestern OH
If really bad, you can buy 1/4” Sheetrock and redo the ceiling or wall — right over the bad plaster and lathe. I have also stripped the plaster and lathe and put 1/2” drywall over the studs. Ideally pull baseboards and crown or chair and reinstall over the drywall if you do thus.
If it is a ceiling...I've tried it different ways through the years by covering with drywall and the best is to use furring strips over the plaster and then apply your drywall to those. The strips help secure the old plaster and they make screwing the drywall as easy as new construction. Nothing like not using strips and trying to hit the lath and missing 20% of the time. Not to mention the screws pull through the drywall face or blow out completely.
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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14,065
In my experience, bubbled plaster is a symptom of settling.
The plaster dries rigid and will not flex as the wall twists as it settles.

My best results have been to fix the settling by jacking, and then supporting, the now square house.
Then break away the bad plaster, cover the area with 1/4 drywall, blend it in, and re-wallpaper.
(The plaster is 90% of time wallpapered and this is a chance to re-decorate.)
 
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