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Compressor line run

Project_shadow

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I have a 60gal sanborn compressor I picked up for cheap, I hooked it up quickly as I was in need of it, now that I have time to run my plumbing I want to try to make sure I keep my moisture down and have everything plumbed so I dont collect moisture in my hose, it's all within a 4'x4' area that my garage allows. I just picked up a retractable air reel that I'd like to mount under my workbench, I have a motor guard moisture collector, and a cheaper air regulator, I want to know where the best place for the moisture collector and regulator would be at if I have my hose reel mounted low
I attached pictures of each component and a picture of the bench in relation to the compressor, I would like to mount the reel on the bottom shelf and keep it off my top if possible4fd280f4b46ba032b3279d259a896ab5.jpg95d777804669fad260aa2e2534b2d557.jpg3cb7d6ff3125ea7006d380900f3bb1e6.jpg327ac5b8b7a74f4d09d67a808f34d127.jpg

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Lucid Moments

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I am a long way from an expert on this, but if that is more or less where you want things why not mount the pressure regulator, filter, and hose reel on the wall below the top shelf? Or maybe the filter and pressure regulator on the wall above the shelf to make them easier to reach.
 
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Project_shadow

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I am a long way from an expert on this, but if that is more or less where you want things why not mount the pressure regulator, filter, and hose reel on the wall below the top shelf? Or maybe the filter and pressure regulator on the wall above the shelf to make them easier to reach.
They are on the wall above the bench, but they dont seem to trap any moisture at all to the point my tools are leaving puddles, I want to upgrade from my cheap home air tools to nicer ones but dont want to run the water through them that's there now


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Project_shadow

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get the water separator as far away as reasonably possible. the cooler the air after compression the more moisture will fall out.
Is cast pipe or extruded steel tubing better for air lines? I know for a fact PVC will explode

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NUTTSGT

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Is cast pipe or extruded steel tubing better for air lines? I know for a fact PVC will explode

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Black iron or galvanized should be fine, some will have pro/cons with each one. Some members here have had good luck with using copper line sweated together.


Do you have a good quarter turn ball valve on the bottom of the tank instead of those little freaking petcocks ?
 

dusterdude

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Ive had pvc pushing about 125 or so psi for years,no problems at all

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Project_shadow

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Black iron or galvanized should be fine, some will have pro/cons with each one. Some members here have had good luck with using copper line sweated together.





Do you have a good quarter turn ball valve on the bottom of the tank instead of those little freaking petcocks ?
Alright, and no, I want to make one that is in easy access to so I can catch the water underneath


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manwithtools

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Is cast pipe or extruded steel tubing better for air lines? I know for a fact PVC will explode

Ive had pvc pushing about 125 or so psi for years,no problems at all


Let me get the popcorn and a beer or two...

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NUTTSGT

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Alright, and no, I want to make one that is in easy access to so I can catch the water underneath


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Sometimes you can find the kits to replace the ball valve and other times, you have to build your own. It's nothing more that a few fittings, ******* and a ball valve.

I plumbed mine so it drains outside. Crack the valve for a few seconds and no mess or water to worry about.
 

karoc

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I also have pvc in my garage for the last 20yrs without issues BUTif I had a do over I would run it in 3/4 copper pipe.Only reason my PVC lasted this long cause its not expose to sun.But in small part in back of my mined is that it could happen.So for peace of mind go with black pipe or copper.Put your separators at compressors and at each outlet with a drip leg and a valve to help trap water and be able to drain it.And if possible make a loop with your pipe(what this means is leave compressor with pipe and return to compressor with your pipe) so that you will be able to get all the cfms that your compressor will produce.
 

chaosracing

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I know the PVC police are on the lookout, but my dad ran sch 40 pvc for his garage and basement runs. HOWEVER, he hardly uses it anymore (he installed it about 10 years ago) and it doesn't get any sunlight on it. If I was to run it, I would choose schedule 80.

But I am not running PVC in my garage. Black Iron and galvanized will work, the major draw back is getting the lengths cut and threaded and dealing with crappy fittings. Last few times I did black iron plumbing, we had to search through the bins to find round fittings and not oblong. The problem is I think they are stacked to high when still hot and also during transit from China to the US, putting pressure on them and causing them to go out of round.

There are also PEX lines out there with both push on (Shark bite) fittings, or the solid brass fittings requiring a clamp. Again, that depends on how much you use the system as to what type of fitting you should go with. (Again get ready for the anti PVC/PEX crowd to come out)

Copper is good, but $$$ compared to others. You can also get shark bite fittings for them ($$$), traditional fittings, or fittings with the solder already on it, just clean, flux, heat and go.

Now in regards to keeping moisture down in your confined space, pick a material (I would not use pex or PVC for this, as you want heat transfer) and build a "radiator" or "cooler" with an electric fan on it. There are many ideas and photos on this site. Then place your water separator as far away as you can.
 
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Project_shadow

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Pex seems to be close to the air lines on semis, we use the nylon braided with push to connect fittings, I believe they say 300psi max on them, could i use a roll of that and push to connect fittings to at least make a "radiator" before going to my hose reel?
My garage is only a single car and 25' deep, if I had a shop I would run air to each corner and a reel in the centers, but I dont plan on being here forever and just want the water filtered out

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chaosracing

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Pex seems to be close to the air lines on semis, we use the nylon braided with push to connect fittings, I believe they say 300psi max on them, could i use a roll of that and push to connect fittings to at least make a "radiator" before going to my hose reel?
My garage is only a single car and 25' deep, if I had a shop I would run air to each corner and a reel in the centers, but I dont plan on being here forever and just want the water filtered out

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You need heat transfer for a "radiator" or "cooler" so no you can not use the PEX. Metal has a much higher heat transfer than the PEX ever will, especially if you use a fan to move air over it as well.
 

manwithtools

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Best affordable radiator for this is a transmission cooler equipped with a couple of electric radiator fans powered by a 12 VDC power supply. I think I had less than $200 in the whole shebang and it's very effective.
 

drsung

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nadogail

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I removed the inconvenient tank drain from my vertical tank compressor and replaced it with a street ell, ****** over to a ball valve that is easily operated with my toe.

The tank now gets blown down on a regular basis.
 

chaosracing

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Best affordable radiator for this is a transmission cooler equipped with a couple of electric radiator fans powered by a 12 VDC power supply. I think I had less than $200 in the whole shebang and it's very effective.

Yup. Very inexpensive and very easy to set up.
Like I said above, just search on here, there are many examples of coolers. Search air compressor cooler, air compressor after cooler and many will pop up, easiest is just to do a google search.
Here is one I found right away doing a google search.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=347828
 

chaosracing

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I'd be careful with those.... pretty thin copper with uncertain pressure ratings. Not saying it won't work, but no way to know for sure.

If you look further down, someone else brought up the same concern, but the guy has the pressures of type L and type M copper tubing listed on there as well.

But here is another site with copper ratings.
http://www.alascop.com/pdf/cu/water_tubing_1.pdf
 

chaosracing

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The easiest set up would be a car or truck transmission cooler and a car or truck electric fan. The hardest part for some might be connections and getting 12v to run the fans.

Its also cheap if you can find the parts in a salvage yard where you pull the parts.
 

manwithtools

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I know the other listings, problem is most radiant heat manufacturers don't list tubing type. I've built machines for one of the radiant heat manufacturers that machined away the fins prior to soldering fittings to them. I can't remember the tubing type they used.
 

manwithtools

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What I'm saying is the tubes that have the fins attached to them may be something totally outside the standard tubing classifications. The manufacturing process is different for that industry. Depending on the manufacturer, they don't just use standard tubing grades.
 

cadunkle

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I used to get more water than air. I made an aftercooler using a Hayden 1260 I got from Amazon "used" for under $100, some fittings, soft copper tubing, Norgren filters and regulator. F17-600-A3DA between the cooler and tank. Then from the tank into another F17-600-A3DA with the finer filter media in it, into a F46-601-A0DA coalescing filter.

Use an auto drain on the filter before the tank, it pulls a huge amount out. I Don't get any appreciable water at the filters after the tank and only wipe out moisture a few times per year for maintenance. Tank still needs to be drained regularly but only gets a small amount of water. Air temperature is key, get air temp down as close to ambient as possible before the tank, and catch the water before it goes into the tank.

With my setup after one cycle from empty with everything at 64* my temps are:
Head out: 310*
Cooler in: 292*
Cooler out: 88*
Tank in: 84*

When I add a fan I bet it would be ambient temp and pull even more water before the tank. no more water at tools, no more clogged blast cabinet nozzles.
 

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MrSurly

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Here's mine; I used a re-purposed hydraulic oil cooler taken from an old trencher.

Mounted it to use flywheel air flow. It does a very good job of cooling the air.
 

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Project_shadow

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I will end up making a radiator under my bench, I can fit 7 10ft black iron pipe with 90 degree elbows and hopefully that will help, my garage is small so most of my walls are taken up for storage, and my ceiling is finished so I dont have much headroom either

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