Supporting black iron pipe on concrete walls

[signcrafter]

Gathering the parts and pieces to run my airlines and doing the planning. Grabbed a bunch of 3/4" and 1/2" fittings yesterday at the store and also a bunch of different types of hangers to try out. My garage walls are poured concrete for the most part. When running the main line around the garage and then the individual drops I will need to fasten them to the cement wall in order to support them.

I haven't decided on weather I will run the main line fastened to the wall or with hangers and 3/8" threaded rod from the ceiling joists. Either way will work but I'm thinking I want to fasten them to the wall so they are "solid" instead of hanging from a threaded rod that might get bumped and be able to swing a little bit. So unless someone says different lets just assume the horizontal main line will be fastened to the concrete wall about 6 or so inches down from the joists so I can do my take offs for individual drops going up from the top of the main line.

What I'm thinking is using unistrut anchored to the wall with either tapcons or other concrete anchors. Then use these unistrut pipe clamps, https://www.unistrut.us/product-details/p1109. I should be able to cut a 6" to 8" piece of unistrut and fasten that to the wall and then clamp the pipe to it.

Unistrut comes in two different thicknesses, 13/16" and 1 5/8". So my thought is to run the main horizontal line using the 1 5/8" strut and then try to sneak the drops between the wall and the horizontal run using the 13/16" strut. Or if that doesn't work I will switch and use the 13/16" for the horizontal main and the 1 5/8" for the drops. which may work a little better now that I'm thinking about it since the drops will have a filter and regulator on them and stick out from the wall a bit anyway.

But just wondering how others have done this and if there is a better way? I do not want to use wood blocks, just don't like the looks and I already have unistrut and tapcons and some anchors so it's not an expense.

Also, how far apart do I need supports? I'm sure there is some code for this like every other pipe out there, I just don't work with black pipe much so don't know the specifics.

Thanks

 

[welder4956]

What I'm thinking is using unistrut anchored to the wall with either tapcons or other concrete anchors. Then use these unistrut pipe clamps, https://www.unistrut.us/product-details/p1109. I should be able to cut a 6" to 8" piece of unistrut and fasten that to the wall and then clamp the pipe to it.

The Unistrut is a clean way to attach.

Unistrut comes in two different thicknesses, 13/16" and 1 5/8". So my thought is to run the main horizontal line using the 1 5/8" strut and then try to sneak the drops between the wall and the horizontal run using the 13/16" strut. Or if that doesn't work I will switch and use the 13/16" for the horizontal main and the 1 5/8" for the drops. which may work a little better now that I'm thinking about it since the drops will have a filter and regulator on them and stick out from the wall a bit anyway.

You should assemble the fittings for the drop and measure before deciding on using two different sizes of Unistrut. I think using 13/16" strut for all of it would be cleaner.

Also, how far apart do I need supports? I'm sure there is some code for this like every other pipe out there, I just don't work with black pipe much so don't know the specifics.

7 ft. maximum spacing is good for 3/4" and 1/2" schedule for steel pipe.

https://www.guenthersupply.com/pdf/hanger-spacing-weight-chart.pdf

 

[signcrafter]

The reason I'm thinking two different sizes is because for the drops I'm going to be coming out of the top of the main horizontal run and then down to eliminate as much water issues as I can. So I can either sneak the drop down between the horizontal main and concrete wall or I have to bring the pipe down in front of the main and will be sticking out away from the wall by a few inches probably. Here's a picture of how the drops go up out of the main line first.



So are tapcons good enough for anchoring the unistrut to concrete or should I use some other type of concrete anchors? And are the unistrut pipe clamps I linked to good or need to use some other type of clamp to hold the pipe to the unistrut? Thanks

 

[Mr onetwo]

unistrut is fine, just slow and expensive. Splitheads with F&M plates... cheap and fast

 

[welder4956]

The reason I'm thinking two different sizes is because for the drops I'm going to be coming out of the top of the main horizontal run and then down to eliminate as much water issues as I can. So I can either sneak the drop down between the horizontal main and concrete wall or I have to bring the pipe down in front of the main and will be sticking out away from the wall by a few inches probably. Here's a picture of how the drops go up out of the main line first.



So are tapcons good enough for anchoring the unistrut to concrete or should I use some other type of concrete anchors? And are the unistrut pipe clamps I linked to good or need to use some other type of clamp to hold the pipe to the unistrut? Thanks

OK, I understand now why you wanted the two sizes. That should work fine with tapcons to attach to the wall.

 

[nadogail]

What he said.

one;7656058]unistrut is fine, just slow and expensive. Splitheads with F&M plates... cheap and fast[/QUOTE]

faster, cleaner, neater = Better

 

[Firebrick43]

I have used unistrut, split hangers, pipe hangers, and sammies for attaching utilities to the composite slab of my house. None are necessarily better than the other although unistrut shines if running multiple pipes parrallel to each other. I have even hung unistrut with sammies and threaded rod in a location where multiple pipe/conduit had to cross perpendicular over other pipes. Sammies have a special driver that set them with an impactor.

The only thing I suggest above all else if setting things into concrete is to get an sds rotary hammer. My Bosch bulldog drills hole in 10 seconds or less. My Hammer drill takes nearly a minute and really ***** to use.

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[signcrafter]

unistrut is fine, just slow and expensive. Splitheads with F&M plates... cheap and fast

What he said.

one;7656058]unistrut is fine, just slow and expensive. Splitheads with F&M plates... cheap and fast

faster, cleaner, neater = Better[/QUOTE]

I actually bought some of these this weekend. So are you guys saying these are a better option then unistrut? If mounting on the wall I wouldn't think they would be as solid as unistrut but I've never used them before.

 

[Firebrick43]

faster, cleaner, neater = Better

I actually bought some of these this weekend. So are you guys saying these are a better option then unistrut? If mounting on the wall I wouldn't think they would be as solid as unistrut but I've never used them before.[/QUOTE]

I don't see the faster part. Still two holes and a tapcon is only maginialy slower than a drive rivet. And if you have to take the drive rivet out later your cussing.

Cleaner? Maybe. Unistrut has its following. Unistrut ties multiple pipes together for superior strength or allows for future expansion.

 

[mobetta]

I'd run the main with sammy's and splitrings, so you can get a nice pitch on it.

then mount your regulators and wall drops with unistrut or whatever works best

 

[Jackfre]

The split ring hangers are great, but you may find that buying a 10’-20’ stick of Unistrut will hold more lines, water, gas, electrical neatly. Depends upon how or if you need to rack things. I use half a dozen 10x1 5/8 strut for a knock down rack for dabbing fence sections etc. Both methods are excellent.

 

[matt_i]

One issue selecting the unistrut thickness. The half-height saves some wall space but doesn't allow you to wrench on an installed fitting. If you think of the wobble-jaw on a pipe wrench having to get between the pipe and the wall and then turn without scarring the wall there's not a lot of room. The full height will be better at allowing enough clearance. Could be useful if leaks are found. Generally I find its very hard to overtorque black pipe fittings unless you were a middle linebacker in college football or are using a super long wrench. Keep 'em tight!

 

[HenryAZ]

TP Tools sells mounting brackets for metal pipe:

 

[Falcon67]

I don't have concrete walls, but I just used 3/4" conduit clamps and a bit of 1x2 to tie the 1/2 pipe to the walls. If it was brick or cinderblock, I'd do same with some plastic wall anchors.

 

[akpingel]

Another vote for splitheads. My inspector made the comment "Now this is the way to hang black pipe." FWIW.

Don't know that it was fast for me- I cut all of my threaded rod to length.

 

[signcrafter]

Can you use split heads for hanging from the wall or are they just for hanging from the ceiling? I would think that using them on the wall would put a lot of downward pressure on the threaded rod, even if it's only a short piece?

 

[Firebrick43]

Can you use split heads for hanging from the wall or are they just for hanging from the ceiling? I would think that using them on the wall would put a lot of downward pressure on the threaded rod, even if it's only a short piece?

A 3/8 rod will support the weight of the pipe. Might not want to do pull ups however. Unistrut would be stronger but how strong does it have to be?

 

[signcrafter]

A 3/8 rod will support the weight of the pipe. Might not want to do pull ups however. Unistrut would be stronger but how strong does it have to be?

It doesn't have to be super strong but just picturing how the split heads anchored into the concrete don't really provide the best support for pipe. In my head I just picture them used for hanging from above from the ceiling. But I've never used them so don't know for sure.

I do have 3/8" redhead anchors that are threaded like these so the split heads would be very easy to install for me. https://www.itwredhead.com/products/expansion-anchors/trubolt

 

[GrayFlattop]

My vote would be to use Unistrut as you can also use it to support electrical conduit, water and gas piping. It is also what I used in my garage.

 

[kbs2244]

I would eliminate the Unistrut step and use these.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Oatey-33746-3-4-4-CTS-Baby-J-Hook-bag-of-25

Cheap and easy.
Not marketed for black pipe or air, should work fine in a home shop.

 

[signcrafter]

I would eliminate the Unistrut step and use these.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Oatey-33746-3-4-4-CTS-Baby-J-Hook-bag-of-25

Cheap and easy.
Not marketed for black pipe or air, should work fine in a home shop.

I've used those for plumbing before and I do not want to use them screwing into a concrete wall. If the wall was wood, maybe, but using tapcons wouldn't be the best thing in those plastic hangers.

 

[7635tools]

Minnie’s (conduit support) work good for this. Strut is good to but more work. I used Minnie’s in my shop. Quicker. If you have multiple pipes to run, then strut would be the way to go.


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[willf650]

For running down your wall I would use mineralac electrical conduit hangers. Simple, cheap and quick. They stand off the wall just enough to clear the shoulder of all your fittings.

http://www.elecdirect.com/cable-clamps-p-clips/minerallac-fastening-products/conduit-hangers

 

[Mr onetwo]

I would eliminate the Unistrut step and use these.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Oatey-33746-3-4-4-CTS-Baby-J-Hook-bag-of-25

Cheap and easy.
Not marketed for black pipe or air, should work fine in a home shop.

These are made in copper tube size...won't fit iron pipe.Also sometimes cheap is not good.

 

[Mr onetwo]

When running overhead clevis hangers are best because you can screw the pipe together while in the hangers...tough to do in splitheads.Splitheads or riser clamps for verticals down the wall or horizontals along a wall.Steel J-hooks are an old school way also...installed a fair amount of 2 1/2" and up steam piping up that way.

 

[Mr onetwo]

More thoughts from too many years as a pipefitter.Drop-ins are great for anchoring in concrete....very strong and you vary the amount of "standoff" or drop with the threaded rod.also, if you are not sure of your skill using pipe dope and tape try "X-pando".Water based and leaks are impossible.Follow the directions on the can and don't over tighten.This stuff is gold when you absolutely, positively can't have a leak in the middle of a piping system.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Sammy's are great in wood or metal. I just never trusted them or tapcons in concrete. I love nail-ins for setting plates in concrete.E-Z anchors for sheetrock with no backing.There I'm done.

 

[kbs2244]

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Oatey-33747-1-4-CTS-Baby-J-Hook-bag-of-25

They make them all the way to 4 inch

 

[MFolks]

For pipe joints,I use the Loctite white #565 "Goo" instead of tape.less chance of having a piece of the Teflon tape get into a valve.

 

[welder4956]

...I already have unistrut and tapcons and some anchors so it's not an expense...

I think some may not have noticed the above comment from the OP. There are some very good ideas and options posted, but it sounded like he was asking if it was OK to use what he already had available.