What Toxic Chemicals In Vintage Tools Should I Watch Out For?

[RiseAbove]

I was wondering what other chemicals, besides Cadmium, do some vintage tools have that pose a health risk when restoring them? Are there any other metals, finishes, plastics etc?

Does Cadmium have a dull looking alumium finish? What's the best way to clean it? Did any powertools such as Craftsman, B&D, Porter Cable etc use Cadmium?

I usually use Evaporust to clean up tools, but was going to switch to using a wire wheel and want to learn more about the dangers of doing so.

 

[Corndoggeh]

Lead based paints and cadmium are the two big ones, flaking chrome can also cause issues/cuts. Stick to evaporust or other chemical solution, enclosed sandblasting, or hand cleaning if you are dealing with moderate amount of rust. If you have a very rusty piece and you wirewheel it you make all that rust airborne which is just as hazardous as the cadmium. Sandblasting is good IF you have a solid filter system. I use an "absorption" tower of soap and water with about 5 trays. It removes 99% of the finest dust that would otherwise end up in the air and lungs. I leave the wirewheel for light rust or cleaning dirt/staining and not for bulk rust removal.

Cadmium finishes generally have a dull finish like old aluminum or lightly sandblasted chrome. Look up harrold pliers and youll see a good example. Best way to clean cadmium tools is a hand wire brush and a little light oil if need be.

Not sure whether they used cadmium with power tools, but i know crescent, snapon, plomb, etc made cadmium tools at points in their history.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Chromium, Zinc, dust, and petroleum come to mind, and that icky poo they made screwdriver handles from.

 

[d42jeep]

Chromium, Zinc, dust, and petroleum come to mind, and that icky poo they made screwdriver handles from.

Beryllium is another to watch out for. You definitely don’t want to be using a wire wheel on those tools. If there is a possibility of cadmium you don’t want to get that tool close to a wire wheel!
-Don

 

[RiseAbove]

Lead based paints and cadmium are the two big ones, flaking chrome can also cause issues/cuts. Stick to evaporust or other chemical solution, enclosed sandblasting, or hand cleaning if you are dealing with moderate amount of rust. If you have a very rusty piece and you wirewheel it you make all that rust airborne which is just as hazardous as the cadmium. Sandblasting is good IF you have a solid filter system. I use an "absorption" tower of soap and water with about 5 trays. It removes 99% of the finest dust that would otherwise end up in the air and lungs. I leave the wirewheel for light rust or cleaning dirt/staining and not for bulk rust removal.

Cadmium finishes generally have a dull finish like old aluminum or lightly sandblasted chrome. Look up harrold pliers and youll see a good example. Best way to clean cadmium tools is a hand wire brush and a little light oil if need be.

Not sure whether they used cadmium with power tools, but i know crescent, snapon, plomb, etc made cadmium tools at points in their history.

Chromium, Zinc, dust, and petroleum come to mind, and that icky poo they made screwdriver handles from.

Beryllium is another to watch out for. You definitely don’t want to be using a wire wheel on those tools. If there is a possibility of cadmium you don’t want to get that tool close to a wire wheel!
-Don

Thanks for the replies gentlemen

I'm going to keep using the Evaporust method. I don't want to take the risk of using a wire wheel to remove heavy rust.

After using Evaporust to remove the rust, would it be safe to use a buffing wheel and compund, including using it on Chromium tools, or would that still kick **** up into the air and be a problem?

Is there any way to spot Beryllium and Zinc on tools? I remember reading a thread about Berylco tools that contain Beryllium (the clue is in the name huh?!).

 

[d42jeep]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen

I'm going to keep using the Evaporust method. I don't want to take the risk of using a wire wheel to remove heavy rust.

After using Evaporust and removing the rust, would it be safe to use a buffing wheel and compund, including using it on Chromium tools, or would that still kick **** up into the air and be a problem?

Is there any way to spot Beryllium and Zinc on tools?

You're probably good with plain steel and shiny chrome plated tools. Zinc resembles cad but not generally quite as dull. Beryllium is kind of bronze looking and fairly uncommon. Here are some plain steel steel sockets polished by an expert (not me).
-Don

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I don't use wheels of any kind on any tools, but I agree with Don - I think that a buffing wheel would turn cadmium or zinc into dust, which is harmful, even with a mask and gloves.

We've had many, many threads on this subject before. Search on "cadmium" and you will find threads with photos of cadmium-plated tools as examples.

Zinc and other phosphate finishes are chalky-looking. Zinc is not toxic at low levels. In fact, we need zinc in our diets. It can be toxic when ingested or inhaled at abnormally high levels because it reduces iron. So you don't want to be ingesting or inhaling it every week cleaning tools in your shop.

Beryllium was not used as a rust-proofing finish. It was combined with copper to make non-sparking tools for non-sparking environments instead of steel tools. Berylco, as you mentioned, was a major mfgr of BeCu tools. AMPCO was another. BeCu tools look like dark brass and are non-magnetic. They are highly toxic. Not all non-sparking tools you find are BeCu. Aluminum brass (often marked AlBr or ALBR) is not toxic.

Note that Evaporust will have NO effect on cadmium or zinc phosphate.

Evaporust WILL remove a black oxide finish.

If a tool has a natural steel finish, I use a soft wire brush, 0000 steel wool, a rag, and WD-40.

If a tool is cadmium-plated or has any kind of chalky phosphate finish, I skip the brush and use 0000 steel wool very lightly!

 

[RiseAbove]

You're probably good with plain steel and shiny chrome plated tools. Zinc resembles cad but not generally quite as dull. Beryllium is kind of bronze looking and fairly uncommon. Here are some plain steel steel sockets polished by an expert (not me).
-Don

I don't use wheels of any kind on any tools, but I agree with Don - I think that a buffing wheel would turn cadmium or zinc into dust, which is harmful, even with a mask and gloves.

We've had many, many threads on this subject before. Search on "cadmium" and you will find threads with photos of cadmium-plated tools as examples.

Zinc and other phosphate finishes are chalky-looking. Zinc is not toxic at low levels. In fact, we need zinc in our diets. It can be toxic when ingested or inhaled at abnormally high levels because it reduces iron. So you don't want to be ingesting or inhaling it every week cleaning tools in your shop.

Beryllium was not used as a rust-proofing finish. It was combined with copper to make non-sparking tools for non-sparking environments instead of steel tools. Berylco, as you mentioned, was a major mfgr of BeCu tools. AMPCO was another. BeCu tools look like dark brass and are non-magnetic. They are highly toxic. Not all non-sparking tools you find are BeCu. Aluminum brass (often marked AlBr or ALBR) is not toxic.

Note that Evaporust will have NO effect on cadmium or zinc phosphate.

Evaporust WILL remove a black oxide finish.

If a tool has a natural steel finish, I use a soft wire brush, 0000 steel wool, a rag, and WD-40.

If a tool is cadmium-plated or has any kind of chalky phosphate finish, I skip the brush and use 0000 steel wool very lightly!

Thanks

I'm definitely going to be staying away from the wire wheel and just using the more subtle methods.

Im looking at my '69 Craftsman block motor bench grinder and wondering if that's Cadmium on the tool rests and wheel flanges/washers

I've had good results with Evaporust, although it did turn some of my Kraeuter pliers black.

 

[6PTsocket]

Chromium, Zinc, dust, and petroleum come to mind, and that icky poo they made screwdriver handles from.

You mean cellulose acetate butyrate (CAB). It stinks but I have never heard of it described as toxic. They still sell it in sheet form. It is also called Uvex.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[1/2 Cup]

RiseAbove great thead.

 

[RiseAbove]

RiseAbove great thead.

Figured it would help not only help myself, but also the younger and/or newer people that are getting into vintage tools. Wouldn't be good to grab a bag of Chromium (or anything else harmful) tools at a flea market, then be knocking it all up into the air and your lungs the next day with a wire wheel trying to clean it up.

 

[lardy1]

Apologies for beating this dead horse, but:

Should I be putting old tools in a Saf T Kleen parts washing tub and using the solvent in the drum?

Some old tools that I ran through Evaporust then wire brushed with heavy WD40 ended up with a gold or copper overtone. Is that normal?

I've read that Evaporust removes cadmium and that it doesn't. Can anyone clarify.

I now know most of what I was doing is wrong and will discontinue with laquer thinner and mineral spirits and rely more on soap and bristle brushes for grime.

I read a whole bunch of old GJ threads on cadmium related issues. I thank everyone that contributed to those threads for trying to spread the awareness. In one of those thread someone (Lugz, I think) suggested a cadmium related sticky. I agree wholeheartedly. Not only would it keep people like me from resurrecting these ancient threads, it might also save a life. I've been a member about a year but heve read GJ occasionally before that. Until relatively recently I wasn't fully aware of the potential danger in some old tools. That's on me 100%. No complaints. Just a second on that motion to create a sticky regarding the possible dangers that we may encounter.

Larry

 

[d42jeep]

Lardy,
I put cad plated tools in evaporust all the time and they come out fine. I also wouldn’t hesitate to use your solvent tank to remove grease. The main danger with Cadmium is with airborne particles. They were aware of the danger of cad poisoning during WW2. I found this online recently.
-Don

 

[lardy1]

Thanks, Don. I appreciate the input.

 

[MrSurly]

Be aware of the common use of asbestos in old tools, especially in wiring and switch housings. Also, of course, used as heat shielding and insulation in various devices.


There are Mercury vials in various switches and thermostats; ironically in "Safety switches" that detect doors being opened, etc.


Great Thread Topic!

 

[Roberts210]

I don't worry about it. I generally use a dust mask if I'm wire brushing, but I hardly ever wire brush anything plated--most times I wire brush rusted cast iron or rusted steel. If something is chrome plated I'll use 0000 steel wool to shine it up sometimes, but not always.

 

[Rileysan]

Anything rusty is hazardous to you, not me. Send all your rusty tools to me.

Brian

 

[laser3kw]

Apologies for beating this dead horse, but:

Should I be putting old tools in a Saf T Kleen parts washing tub and using the solvent in the drum?
Larry

Safety Kleen parts washer solvent is 105° flash recycled minerals spirits. It can help abate hazardous airborne dust. But it does have a smell to it if you leave the top open for prolong times.

 

[Larryjones]

Beware of old capacitors, they might have PCBs in them.