mr_magicfingers
Well-known member
Oh and what a lovely article over on Garret Wade 
And you are 100% correct. It could have been better in any way. What i meant was the idea. What i also forgot was the darn flat gs engine sideways layout.
No problem.I wasn't trying to pick on you, it is more muscle memory. Any time I see swages being mis-used, I try to let people know. Just trying to propagate correct methods as most people aren't familiar with how to use aircraft cable, and don't realize there are specific tools for the job. I do like the idea of putting a safety on the levers though. Makes sense for something that is going to get bashed through the woods and trails.
What a fabulous build. I was following on instagram this morning as you made the dash and cackled when you went to fit it and said 'f*******ck'. Isn't that always the way.
Oh and sign me up as another YT follower. I've learned so much following this thread over the years and bought tools because of it along with trying to be a better maker/tool-user and to not settle for 'that'll do' when I can do it better. 'What would Gregor do?' is one of those phrases I use when I'm rushing or throwing a bodge together and think I should make it more neatly, precisely or just go off and learn something new to do it better.
Oh and I've been learning to weld, that might turn out to be a real expensive rabbit hole to wander down. I did a short evening class that has now made me want a tig where I only have a mig right now. Maybe next year....
Making cables is a lost art, or more likely most shops don't have the tools (solder pot) to do any longer. We used to be the only shop around that did them. We used muriatic acid as flux since we had it on hand for removing aluminum from plated cylinders.So yesterday was a busy day. I had placed my bearings and the bushing into the freezer when I went to bed so they'd be cold in the morning for pressing in.
![]()
I left the swingarm in the mill overnight and decided to just use the mills arbor to press in the bushing since it was still all set up. A frozen bushing and the mill's quill was just able to press it in smoothly. Motophile mentioned making go/no go gage blocks which is probably a good idea. I don't know if that would help with press fits though.
Anyway, I used the press to install the bearings in the swingarm. I sometimes will make a puck in the lathe that helps to press the bearing in on the outside race but usually I'll just use a big socket.
![]()
I posted this on Instagram and it's really only something a true BMW nut would appreciate. It's also why I need to organize my stuff. In true hoarder fashion I knew I'd had a spare swingarm but didn't know I had a spare bevel drive. I brought the pair down so I could use the extra swingarm for the modifying and then yesterday when I was getting ready to install the drive unit I figured I'd check to see if the extra was a different ratio. It was - the lowest ratio BMW ever made and it's pretty rare and hard to find. Score! I want a bit more grunt from the bike, more power and a little slower 1st gear so now this bike will have all that.
![]()
Lara is like a whirlwind. She can't sit still and if she's not working she's cleaning. It's awesome. It's inspiring me to be cleaner and neater. Always goals but now more than ever.
We installed the new 37/11 drive unit in and the shock and torque arm. Most of the work I did to modify the swingarm was so the yoke would clear at full extension. I also needed to grind back the battery box mount a bit too for the spring. It's all very tight.
![]()
One thing I've been putting off was making new cables. The original bike used a BMW combo brake/throttle which is nice for it's clean integration but is generally never the right master cylinder size, too large to give much flexibility in control position and clunky. I ordered a Motion Pro MX throttle so it would have a quick 1/4 turn but they are all single cable pulls. I found a kit on Amazon that had the splitter and cables so I bought that for the parts. I probably have enough cable supplies to last a lifetime but I'm always running short of certain ferrules so I wanted to make sure.
![]()
Not many people know about Flanders Cables but they're where you can order your cable ends and ferrules and stuff. I'll make mine from brass on occasion but it's nice to just have them ready to go. You can make control cables for anything with this stuff: lawnmowers, bicycles, motorcycles. It's a solid skill to have.
There's two real concerns you have when making a new custom cable: pull and exposed cable length. I measured all of the existing cable lengths and pull so I could get the right amount of free cable but every one one is different. Here's a quick tutorial on how you make the ends.
![]()
When you have the right length of exposed cable measured add to that the length of your ferrule. Put the correct ferrule on with the larger end to the end of the cable. On round ones there's a small opening for the cable on one side and a larger opening on the other. That larger part is to accept this little bit of destruction. Flare the end. Some people like to put it in a vise and peen the ends but I use needle nose pliers to bend the cable out in all directions. The goal is an even mushroom sort of end.
![]()
Pull the ferrule down into your frayed ends being careful to not pull it off (then it's start over time) and then dip it into the correct solder flux. I've searched for years for the right flux and this is the best stuff I've found for making cables. Without the right flux it's really difficult. Be very careful to not dip any farther then the top of the ferrule. If you do the solder will climb up the cable and you'll have no flexibility to the cable.
![]()
A solder pot is really the right tool for this job. A soldering iron has a hard time making the cable ends hot enough. I've done it with a soldering iron and a torch but nothing is as good as a soldering pot. It holds a mass of solder in liquid form and you just dip your fluxed end in and let the flux cook out for a few seconds.
![]()
Be careful to not disturb it for a minute until the solder cools. What you've got now is a very solid mechanical connection. The space inside all those frayed wires is now replaced with solder so it's nearly impossible to pull the end off. Now you dress the end on the grinder or belt sander.
![]()
Don't take off too much, just enough to restore the shape and trim any exposed cable so the ferrule will fit where it needs to. That's the basics of making a custom cable and now I have a nice quick and light 1/4 turn throttle on the bike.
Finally after a bunch of noodling around we got the wheel on. I had to replace all the hardware for the shock and torque arm so I'm getting tired of making special trips to the hardware store.
![]()
I've got the rear brake installed now with a new custom brake line and we're using a Galfer wave rotor like the front.
![]()
It was a very long way to put this giant *** tire on this bike. BMW's are just not designed for this. They're designed for 17" rims and tires but the best dirt wheels and tires are 18" and just like the trend towards 29er's and 27.5+ mountain bikes the goal is the larger rolling radius making the wheel better at going over things.
![]()
The other aspect of dirt wheels is the narrow rims. The Excel A60 is narrow at 2.15" and the tire is large at a 140 width. When you put them together you get a very round, tall tire profile that turns quickly, absorbs bumps and rolls over obstacles better. All good things. I think I can probably say that this is the largest tire ever put on a BMW. I had to really push the pivot back quite a bit to make this happen and I'll be curious how it works.
So now we're into fettling all the details of the bike. Cable management, brake bleeding, small brackets and finally checking torques and replacing the oil in the rear drive. There's still a lot to do but I'm seeing light at the end of the tunnel.
Gregor
as much as I would love a youtube channel to add to my ever growing distractions, it is going to ADD a lot of time to anything you do. like a by a bajillion. i am sure you know that but incase you forgot.
As for the watch on the drill press..
I'll throw it away tomorrow.
… Amazing..Lara!
... You can engineer a perfect functional solution but if it looks ugly no one will notice or care. If you make something beautiful but not functional... well, you're just another custom motorcycle builder. The only way to do it is to make both of absolute importance.
![]()
The Highway Dirtbike handguards went in perfectly. Paul includes roost deflectors but I prefer to run them naked as the mirrors tuck into the opening and I mostly run the mirrors tucked in.
![]()
It doesn't look done but right now I just need to get the tanks back on and see where I'm at. I've already discovered one issue with the new rear brake master switch just touching the rear tank so that will have to be clearanced tomorrow and then it gets buttoned up and I should do a once over on fastener tightness to be sure I haven't missed anything.
I'm actually a bit ahead of schedule which is rather worrying...
Gregor
sakurama; [IMG said:https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/New-Boxer/i-DSssTXf/0/4b9b67b5/X2/20190129-Dakar%20Boxer6112-X2.jpg[/IMG]
My sister is back in town (she's single if you know any nice guys here in Portland...) and she's been cleaning the shop and helping on projects. She sanded and prepped the swingarm for paint. The local shop didn't have the bearings for the swingarm and they're being overnighted which gives us time to get the swingarm painted.
Gregor
Are going to do a final polish on the tanks?

Nice work!
What Rev'it combo is Scott wearing? I currently have the Cayenne Pro but looking for a new one and like the nice fit look of that jacket.
Cheers,
Matthew