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Big Maxx Installation

BurnedPile

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Feb 3, 2019
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9000 Altitude Colorado
I bought a house. Its plumbed for gas, electric,thermostat, and exhaust. The preinstalled exhaust is type B double walled. 4 inch inside and 5 outside. I dont know if I should call it 4 or 5 pipe.

I read somewhere that stainless steel is now required? Is that correct? I really dont want to tear it apart, plus more cost in pipes..

House built in 2005 and I read 2012 changed the rules?

Garage is 35x30 and 10 foot ceilings. Insulated, but I dont know what's in the walls. Its decent stuff.

I live at 8500 foot altitude, so is there going to be an problem with O2?

I'm planning on buying Big Maxx 50k or 80k. On amazon, the 50k is MORE than the 80k. Does anyone know why?

I see the exhaust kit is 399. The actual heater is 400 alone. That seems crazy. If I can use the existing wall thimble, then I only need the coupling, maybe a foot to reach the thimble pipe and an exterior cap. I'm probably using the wrong terminology. I hope you understand what I'm saying.

I've got more questions and pics if anyone can help.
 
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pbon

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If you are not going to be inspected and install yourself, then just watch the 13 year old pipe. If it’s double walled, it will be harder to watch the inside. Maybe run an inspection camera through it now.
 

The Cobbler

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in my area stainless is required for thru the wall
you have 4" b vent
50k is probably ok if you have decent insulation
I ended up going thru the roof due to cost of horizontal venting
 

D45

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50k should be fine......

Do you plan in having the garage heated 24/7 Or just turning it on when you're out there?
 

CJseven

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So just why was the B-vent changed to single stainless for horizontal venting? All the heaters I’ve been around were all old installs with b vent, I have a new big max for my new shop and seen in the instructions, then started reading here about the change.
 

D45

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Big gas line and big vent, wow

Attached or detached garage?

I personally would just buy a reducer and connect your heater

I started with a 45k heater and after a year bought and installed a 75k, I just does a better job. But I don't heat my shop 24/7 and want the temp brought up faster.
 
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BurnedPile

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Big gas line and big vent, wow

Attached or detached garage?

I personally would just buy a reducer and connect your heater

I started with a 45k heater and after a year bought and installed a 75k, I just does a better job. But I don't heat my shop 24/7 and want the temp brought up faster.

It's an attached garage. I'm leaning toward the 80K, hell, it's $35 cheaper on Amazon. But, I also realized that if it's kicking on and off all the time, that's hard on the unit. Might be better to get the 50K, and just leave it on low all the time. Waste of money though. Most of the time, I dont need it warm.
 
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BurnedPile

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I see they ran the electric nearby, but they didn't splice access. So, Ill need an electrician to put in a T or something. Another headscratcher why they didn't just cap off the wires.
 
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BurnedPile

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50k should be fine......

Do you plan in having the garage heated 24/7 Or just turning it on when you're out there?

I would like to set it just warm enough to keep it from being frozen in there. I live in the Rockies and it gets sub zero all the time. Lowest I saw this year was -24F, not windchill, just temp. I would like to make it run all the time at like 40-50 degrees, just to keep it warm for the cars and keep materials from freezing solid. Once a month, I have a kids project (pinewood derby cars right now) and would turn it up to 65 so they can sand and spraypaint in there.
 
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BurnedPile

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So just why was the B-vent changed to single stainless for horizontal venting? All the heaters I’ve been around were all old installs with b vent, I have a new big max for my new shop and seen in the instructions, then started reading here about the change.

I don't know for certain that it is a requirement. Maybe only for new construction? Since its existing, I grandfather in? Except they never actually installed the unit. They did 90% of the work and then quit.
 
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BurnedPile

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If you are not going to be inspected and install yourself, then just watch the 13 year old pipe. If it’s double walled, it will be harder to watch the inside. Maybe run an inspection camera through it now.

It's only a couple feet and straight right now. I can see that it's clean as can be in there. Once it gets put together, I guess I can run some kind of heat sensor from the outside, is that's what you are suggesting?

Here is what it looks like. I didnt take a pic through the pipe, but it's short and clean.

https://imgur.com/a/eVaoheQ
 
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BurnedPile

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Now I'm reading that I have to replace that Type B vent pipe with CAT III. I'll have to cut out the drywall and whatever else is near it and put in the stainless steel pipe that costs quadruple. 400 for the Big Maxx and 400 for the vent kit. Unbelievable.

This $500 project is turning into double that. Not happy at all.
 
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k-os

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Now I'm reading that I have to replace that Type B vent pipe with CAT III. I'll have to cut out the drywall and whatever else is near it and put in the stainless steel pipe that costs quadruple. 400 for the Big Maxx and 400 for the vent kit. Unbelievable.

This $500 project is turning into double that. Not happy at all.

Check your local home improvement stores for CAT III vent pipe. I ended up getting the pieces I needed from Menards for a lot cheaper than Mr Heater's kit. I also bought it during an 11% sale to save some more.
 

D45

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Can you leave the current large diameter vent in place and run the CAT III right through it?
 

pbon

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I think I paid $300 for the $400 Mr. Heater kit that will do about 5’ and comes with a 45 degree. Buy separately if you need different parts than are in the kit.
 
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BurnedPile

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Can you leave the current large diameter vent in place and run the CAT III right through it?

That's a great question. It's 5 inch on the outside. I don't know yet if I can tear the 4" inside tube out and push 4" CAT 3 through it. Maybe someone on here knows if that is doable?

I want this to pass code inspection.
 
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