HOTFR8
Banned
Great progress. Shame about the power company not being organised.
Fortunately the neighbours are obliging. The brickie has been using their power for his mixer.
Nice neighbours, sounds like you owe them a drink
So your garage walls are effectively triple brick once the outside 'proper' bricks go up?
Geoff289 looking great.
I see you have a 3 phase supply, well done.![]()
Yes, so far we have lucked out with neighbours which augurs well for living there. I met the guy over the road today for the first time and he's a good guy too. I took him for a short spin in my Mustang after giving him a tour of the house layout.
No, the garage walls aren't triple brick. The full height wall on the boundary is conventional double brick construction 230 mm or one brick length thick in total (apart from the recess near the back end of it, which I'll explain a bit further down the track - there is a reason for it). What you see is the internal face of the wall. I will be painting it (maybe bagging first) for light reflection so it made no sense to use the expensive face bricks there. On the other side, the neighbour's side, we'll render it to suit the neighbour down the track. The house on that side sold a few months back and the new owner is doing what we're doing, knocking it down and building something new. Again, putting up more expensive face bricks there that may not match what the new house on that side ends up like made no sense.
The low walls at the back and the other side of the garage don't go any higher than they are now. Apart from the setback of the house from the side boundary behind the garage, those walls adjoin the house itself and will have stud and plaster walls built on top of them. The garage floor slab will be on top of the walls as you see them and the walls themselves will effectively be buried, so again no point in more expensive flash bricks there. Hope that all makes sense.
Well we have no phase supply just now but yes, trying to future proof as much as possible. While I became convinced it was the thing to do it doesn't matter how much I read about it I still can't quite get my head around how it works but I guess I don't need to.
Fortunately the neighbours are obliging. The brickie has been using their power for his mixer.
Ok I think I am seeing what you are saying. If I am not it will become clearer soon enough.
Great progressThe great neighbours bodes well for the future too. Laps of the block in the Mustang is a great way to get them on side too
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Always great to have neighbours willing to help.
Geoff, I am really enjoying your build. When we lived in Manly the house next door was being replaced and I was fascinated by the construction techniques. The window of my office/guest room overlooked the property and I spent a lot of time trying to understand the process. I am not aware of any areas in the US that have double-brick or triple brick construction. In Florida the closest we have is CBS (concrete block on slab).
When shopping for our first Florida home we chose one with "brick" stucco. It's made with a top layer of brick-colored stucco over a gray or white stucco. The mason then carves the mortar lines so the gray or white layer shows through. We were moving to a hot climate from a cold one and this looked like it belonged in a cold place.
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Ok I understand what you are saying no Geoff.
Bob I find the construction idea's in the US to be quite different. I like to watch youtube vids of peoples builds and a lot of them over there do not use any steel in their concrete slabs. No wonder they have the saying that there is only two types of concrete...one that is cracked and one that is going to crack
Also I had never seen traditional timber frame buildings until I followed some youtube channels, it is a great way to build a home if you are into that look.
Sorry to go off topic a bit.
Belting down rain here today so probably nothing happening with our build.
Looks great ! Are you going to have an access door through your garage brickwork there? I know it might seem silly with such a low headspace but I stored all my leftover roof tiles etc there rather than throw them out- (might never need them , but, hey...)

Geoff are the water tanks something that is required in your area or something you elected to put it?
I am putting a small one off my garage but only to recirculate my still water when the still is running![]()
There will be quite a bit of sub floor storage space. ....
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Those redwater diverters are a great idea, especially for people using instant gas/electric style water heaters because they are not so instant depending on there placement.
I might fit one to my camper, it has an instant hot water heater and I cringe everytime I see so much cold water going down the drain waiting for the hot.
Our house does not have enough 'living' area glass facing the northern sun so we are also over insulating above 'code' rating and due to our BAL fire assessment we also have double glazed windows, even though we requested then regardless.
May pay the price with condensation for all the insulation but time will tell.
We are using a 12kw ducted heat pump for heating, Id imagine your climate is similar to ours.
Ahh yes I see- guess I was thinking near corner was around 7 bricks high , but can see the other side is much higher.
I used to have my compressor (at my old house) under the house sitting on dirt but I'm guessing you'll do it right and have a slab under your slab so you don't keep blowing dirt dust everywhere ?
I've never heard of redwater diverters before - what a great concept !
Our place is subject to a BAL rating https://www.vba.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/21321/Victorias-Bushfire-Mapping-System.pdf too due to the nature reserve at the rear. Given that we just had the 10 year anniversary of Black Saturday https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Saturday_bushfires its kind of hard to regard this as unreasonable bureaucracy. Our rating is just the lowest one of 12.5 so the implications are minimal. Really the only issue is that we can't use the composite decking boards we are having for low maintenance within 300 mm of a window or door so we'll have to use something else for that narrow strip of the external decks on both levels.
I looked into the condensation issue a fair bit too. We have specified that particular attention is paid to sealing the place up. I decided in the end to see how it goes after we move in and that an air circulation system could be added easily enough if it turns out to be necessary.
We are having ducted heat pump heating and cooling too. We are going with this control system https://www.advantageair.com.au/myair/ as it can control the zoning much more flexibly and precisely than anything else I've looked at.
Geoff, I installed a 30-meter starter kit between my garage and workshop, running along the top of the fence (I had planned to bury it along with the electric and water but priorities changed). Because it was exposed, vermin (rats or squirrels) used the nylon pipe for teething so 30 meters of perforated blue pipe ended up in the landfill. There is a more expensive version that uses coated aluminum pipe. I'll be using stainless tubing instead. I don't know if there are similar sources down under but McMaster-Carr sells 100-foot length of 1/2-inch diameter 304 stainless tubing for less than $180 (https://www.mcmaster.com/8989k981).
Ours was BAL 19 however they down graded it if we build this hideous 23 mtr long, 2.4 mtr high colorbond fire wall above our house to shield the bush.....or to shield us from the bush, perhaps both. However like you, I agree it is a necessity to have BAL assessments.
Hmm interesting on the decking, we had planned on using composite decking as well, so that is something Ill have to consider because the deck runs past two large 2100mm wide floor to ceiling windows.
I am unsure if BAL building requirements are a Australia wide standard or state by state based but a part of our 12.5 rating is to seal all openings so they are ember proof. So again we may need to consider some sort of circulation in the roof cavity if condensation is too much of an issue.
That myair system looks fantastic, I am going to see if it can be fitted to our system.
Thats two significant finds due to your build so far! Anymore interesting concepts you have researched?
Hi Geoff,
This DPU not only had to meet the BAL ratings but also all of the new energy ratings which dictated how it was built. We were told we had to have north facing windows for natural light (and heat, no shading) and it is fully sealed and insulated. Which brings me to the second issue we have, because of these rules there is no natural airflow so condensation is a major problem to the point that some mornings there is so much water on some of the window frames that it runs off onto the carpet so much for energy efficiency.
Over the last few years I found it necessary to read up on all of the BAL requirements myself as it seemed most of the information I was receiving from suppliers was conveniently suited to exactly the materials that they supplied, funny that.
I downloaded the originals back in 2013 and more updates late last year.
We are planning again to build the extension later this year, if we can successfully wade through all of the new requirements.
Good luck with the build.
cheers
For those of you interested in sustainable homes, I recommend checking out Josh's House. Josh Byrne is one of the presenters on Gardening Australia, and has built his personal home as a showcase, but included telemetry in partnership with a local uni to actually track its performance accurately.
https://joshshouse.com.au/
You might also be interested in Passive House principles. Passive homes are big in Europe and starting to gain traction here in Australia. Note the comment about creating a thermal gap between inside and outside, to minimise condensation as a material like window glass isnt exposed to temp differences on each side.
https://passivehouseaustralia.org/passive-house-in-detail/
By the way, we have had to give it a miss this year but the Mustang Owners Club here has an annual trip to Tassie each February. We all put our cars on the boat and hook up with the Tassie chapter in various locations over about 5 days. I'll have to drop in on you next year if we come.
Some decent progress happening there Geoff.
Thanks for sharing the mustang pics. I have to wonder what the mustang owners think of the Supercars version of the mustang?
Being a diehard Ford man the shape of the supercar kills me! It’ll be at least two years before they allow a lower roll cage and get the proper shape homologated.
I have also looked at the Passive House concept and actually visited and talked to a PH accredited fella about his own house here in Melbourne.
Our's will fall short of PH but it will be very significantly better than most. In particular it will be way better than the volume builders produce. I reckon most of them specialise in bad design. I expect our's to be 9 stars of a possible 10. The major PH omission in our case is interior thermal mass which just wasn't feasible with the main floor of the house elevated like it is.
Well how 'bout that? I saw your Dad race a number of times. I'll send you a PM later.
Nice progress on the house, it is quite complex compared to mine.
Dealerships fascinate me. We have a new Isuzu MUX and I do all my own servicing for the same reason.
They do have fixed price servicing which isnt too bad but $1400 to change the oil and check the tappets is clearly taking advantage of people.
I checked mine in 2 hours (there was only really one that could have been adjusted but it was a 'feel' thing rather than being out of spec) so I have no doubt they charge people the money but dont even take the tappet cover off.
In fact I know they do, theres plenty of info online where they just listen for excessive rattling!
As for warranty, I use my fathers service stamp so if I have to ill argue that one when the time comes![]()