The VISES of Garage Journal
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Wabo: do you have any more pictures? are you sure it's a 8 inch wide jaw? I've got the Yost 34c that has 6 inch wide jaws that weighs about 160 pounds. how much does your vise weigh?
YOST is great old USA company and i think they still make vises here in the USA instead of having everything made in China like some vise/vice companies have done.
i'm guessing your vise left Yost's factory a while ago and just don't know a good date to tell you so maybe another member will have more information especially if you can post up more details and pictures.
YOST is great old USA company and i think they still make vises here in the USA instead of having everything made in China like some vise/vice companies have done.
i'm guessing your vise left Yost's factory a while ago and just don't know a good date to tell you so maybe another member will have more information especially if you can post up more details and pictures.
Re: gman007
I took this screenshot last summer, who knew.
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I took this screenshot last summer, who knew.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Bricen: Wilton C2 with 5 inch wide jaws? nice looking vise with or without a swivel base. i'm actually liking non swivel vises more these days, but we all have our favorites and some of mine have swivel bases.
Wabo: what's the # on your YOST? those are some HUGE JAW TOWERS for a vise that doesn't have any pipe jaws. speaking of great vises your YOST might be huge and have some special uses, but that Reed 2c might be my favorite vise that is sitting there in the picture behind your Yost.
Wabo: what's the # on your YOST? those are some HUGE JAW TOWERS for a vise that doesn't have any pipe jaws. speaking of great vises your YOST might be huge and have some special uses, but that Reed 2c might be my favorite vise that is sitting there in the picture behind your Yost.
Oregon rock crusher
Well-known member
Looks like a Yost 208. They are still available new. The original Yost 208 weighed nearly #300. Ed. http://www.autotoolworld.com/Yost-V...MIoYLeqve-4AIVxBx9Ch3AVg1YEAQYASABEgJ7FPD_BwE
I have a 3” Yost Machinists vise, one of the last USA made ones that were made. It has proportionately tall jaws. I purchased the vise because I needed it and I wanted to support the made in USA manufacturing of that type. I have to say, that Yost is the nicest vise to use and the quality seems spectacular. The tall jaws are great for the things I commonly do and I think contribute to my high opinion of that tool.
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Thanks to all for the information which helped my sort out my pin on the Reed 405! I’m not sure I would have even recognized the problem without you all. I’ll tell you straight up that I am bad at math. A nice fellow on another forum I frequent happened to have the same vise and sent me dimensions. With those, I made the pin on my lathe using the compound. It took a few tries to find the right angle. I basically had to put bluing on the pin and make the angle so that it touched along the length. Hand fit I guess. It rings in the hole nicely and there is no slop on the stationary jaw. I did drill and tap it for a dowl puller and will order a lift eye to fit the threads as was suggested. I am able to give it a tap with a copper hammer and it seems stuck but won’t go deeper. I can remove it with a pull from my fingers and another tap to the side of the pins head with the same hammer.
Material used is 4140 steel.
Material used is 4140 steel.
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Picked up this Canedy Otto 4inch Vise this evening for $50. Couldn't find much information on the company, in terms of Vises, when I looked before heading out to buy it other than that they built a lot ot drill presses and lathes. Seems a very solid Vise. I took it apart for cleaning. What do you guy recommend for general cleaning and degreasing, Simple Green? And what is your preferred grease to use when rebuilding a Vise?
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va.grouseman
Well-known member
Yea Rock crusher nailed it.---208 with 8'' jaws, 180 lbs.---They don't come cheap.---And they do have a nice *********** like the combinations.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yost-Model...kCfxujZm6ggQEytof8NEmShV1f3cQso+zpwL+PNyDw74x
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Picked up this Canedy Otto 4inch Vise this evening for $50. Couldn't find much information on the company, in terms of Vises, when I looked before heading out to buy it other than that they built a lot ot drill presses and lathes. Seems a very solid Vise. I took it apart for cleaning. What do you guy recommend for general cleaning and degreasing, Simple Green? And what is your preferred grease to use when rebuilding a Vise?
Simple Green is good. SG can also remove paint, so if you are trying to preserve the paint, don't soak it.
I use Mobile 1 red grease. (synthetic) - this was just discussed at length in the vise repair thread.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Rick, nice job on the new pin! Well done!
I'll take a look at that thread. Need to straighten out the handle and figure out what to do with a few chips...fill or file.
gman007
Well-known member
gman007
Well-known member
Picked up this Canedy Otto 4inch Vise this evening for $50. Couldn't find much information on the company, in terms of Vises, when I looked before heading out to buy it other than that they built a lot ot drill presses and lathes. Seems a very solid Vise. I took it apart for cleaning. What do you guy recommend for general cleaning and degreasing, Simple Green? And what is your preferred grease to use when rebuilding a Vise?
Rise
That is a nice find. It looks like you might have already found the Canedy Otto Co history page
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=153
Per the info on this page Canedy & Edwards was established by William Eaton Canedy in 1889. It seems Canedy- was sold at public auction in 1949 and purchased by the Cincinnati Lathe and Tool Company. And operated as the "Canedy-Otto Division" of that firm. This division reportedly lasted until 1956.
As you pointed out it seems that Canedy Otto was better known for its lathe and drill presses but did manufacture other tools and equipment including vises.
Over the years some of the other members have also have come across these vises, here are two links to their posts
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160479
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1913071&postcount=3270
A 4" Canedy like yours just sold on eBay few days ago (see photo).
There are only few Canedy vises listed in the vise spread sheet and your 4" is not listed. If you provide some basic stats (we already know the jaw width is 4") including opening and weight KMSCOTT (aka Dr. Scott) who maintains the spreadsheet can add your vise to the list.
Here is the link to the vise repair thread that Outlaw mentioned
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252830
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tool_scrounge
Well-known member
Unfortunately, Yost has been making everything overseas in Taiwan since early 2016 from what I found researching their archived web pages.
I purchased my Yost in about 2013 and only a couple units were made in the US. The ones from Taiwan may be really good but I went to the used market for my next. The Wilton bullet vises are expensive as all get out but still USA I think.
gman007
Well-known member
Rick
I believe Wilton bullets are still made in USA but unfortunately mechanics vises and I think even tradesman are now made in China.
Sad state of affairs but collectively US and west in general has sold its soul to devil to save a couple of bucks and rich or poor we all have a hand in this madness.
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Thanks for all of the information
I really like them. Real nice stout looking vices. Going to keep an eye out for more.
The 5 in 1 machine that they built is interesting!
I added mine to the Spreadsheet page with details
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Re: Loydski29
Thanks for the tip on the post vise, I really appreciate it. The vise has 6” jaws and weighs in at 102 lbs. and is in great condition. I offered him $150 for the vise and he took it. He also Had an old Athol 624N that he took $40 for. I can’t wait to strip the five layers of paint off of the Athol, it seems to be in pretty good condition.
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Thanks for the tip on the post vise, I really appreciate it. The vise has 6” jaws and weighs in at 102 lbs. and is in great condition. I offered him $150 for the vise and he took it. He also Had an old Athol 624N that he took $40 for. I can’t wait to strip the five layers of paint off of the Athol, it seems to be in pretty good condition.
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chrisnazzy
Well-known member
SmittyRe: Loydski29
Thanks for the tip on the post vise, I really appreciate it. The vise has 6” jaws and weighs in at 102 lbs. and is in great condition. I offered him $150 for the vise and he took it. He also Had an old Athol 624N that he took $40 for. I can’t wait to strip the five layers of paint off of the Athol, it seems to be in pretty good condition.
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Does your Athol 624N have smooth or serrated cast in jaws? Mine has smooth jaws but I saw one on eBay once that had serrated jaws. Still not sure what the "N" refers to.
Also it's interesting that your 624N has the newer style swivel base but the older style handle (round knobs vs. conical). Normally those 2 features are found together.
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Chris, they’re smooth jaws that are cast in. Athol vises are a bit out of my wheelhouse but you’ve piqued my curiosity. I’ll have to do some digging regarding when it was made.
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trijeff
Well-known member
I googled Athol 624 and one of my vises came up. So here they are together.
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davethorik
Well-known member
The dynamic jaw support quite a bit different between those 2. Interesting.
Fierljeppen
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Nice, I can’t recall seeing a lot of Athol pipe vises.Here's my transition Athol
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The 624 on the left does feel a bit more stout now that you mention it.
Thanks Jeppen. Chris remarked about the “N” designation after the 624. What do you feel that designates?Found this page in my Athol notes with -3- different examples from different time periods.
txlonghorn1989
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I scored this little vise on Thu at an estate sale for $3 while visiting my mom out of town. I'm thinking it looks like a small drill press vise. ?? I can find no maker's mark or COO anywhere on it. Stamped on both arms in the same place is "Pat Apl'd For" in a circle. I'm hoping you guys can tell me who made it, where it was made and when? Oh yeah, and what it's actually used for? Thanks!
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Loydski29
Well-known member
ZRX61
Well-known member
On mine I fill any divots with JB weld, hit it with a DA & then give it a final buzz with 3M Scotchbrite roloc discs:
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/225062_1881202842571_3892944_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=9785fd85be5beeadac0633a8850e9791&oe=5CE9BEA2
Morgan 140:
https://scontent-lax3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/181695_1711165151735_1578609_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.**&oh=2141a9d4c146c9cd308599411f9f15ee&oe=5CF5C025
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I like that TX! very cool DP vise! I can't help you, but I want one ! 4 jaws and instantly accessible! Very unique!
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NKlamerus
Well-known member
I was urged by another member to post pictures of this monster.
____________________________________
VISES FOR TRADE:
Millers Falls 2 1/2"
Monarch 218, 4 1/2 wide jaws, lion head, swivel base
Morgan 160 Chicago. swivel base, 145 pounds
Charles Parker 973, 3 inch, swivel base
Reed 203, swivel base, bulb front
Reed 405, 1914 pat, adjustable jaw, bulb front, swivel base
Wilton 4 inch Bullet 840, dated 1947, swivel base
____________________________________
VISES FOR TRADE:
Millers Falls 2 1/2"
Monarch 218, 4 1/2 wide jaws, lion head, swivel base
Morgan 160 Chicago. swivel base, 145 pounds
Charles Parker 973, 3 inch, swivel base
Reed 203, swivel base, bulb front
Reed 405, 1914 pat, adjustable jaw, bulb front, swivel base
Wilton 4 inch Bullet 840, dated 1947, swivel base
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Got a problem with this little Littlestown. It's had a fairly rough life, but is still usable, except for one little problem: Jaw alignment.
as you can see from the pix, the jaws fail to meet squarely-they're off laterally about 1/16", and vertically much less - several thou.
Putting a sqare on it, it's obvious that the slide is bent in two planes, evidently from trying to bend something too tough clamped into the right side.
It looks like the bend is right at where the slide is cast into the dynamic jaw.
Following auto body principles, you start the straightening by applying force in the opposite direction of the force that caused the problem. That would be as I've shown by clamping it in my mighty Columbian woodworking vise. I know better than to abuse my vise trying to use it as a press; this is just to illustrate the idea. I would do the actual pressing in my 20T press.
Am I begging to break the dynamic jaw away from the slide? I can measure the progress accurately and make sure I don't over-press it.
Probably the safest course would be to machine the jaw perches to be square with each other, but let's face it - this is a $50 vise at best. I don't have a mill, and hiring it done would be waaayy too expensive.
The other alternative that I could do is taper the jaw faces. I could do this accurately enough on a belt sander, though it would leave them pretty thin.
I've read several posts here about straightening slides, bun none quite address my situation Any/all thoughts welcome!
as you can see from the pix, the jaws fail to meet squarely-they're off laterally about 1/16", and vertically much less - several thou.
Putting a sqare on it, it's obvious that the slide is bent in two planes, evidently from trying to bend something too tough clamped into the right side.
It looks like the bend is right at where the slide is cast into the dynamic jaw.
Following auto body principles, you start the straightening by applying force in the opposite direction of the force that caused the problem. That would be as I've shown by clamping it in my mighty Columbian woodworking vise. I know better than to abuse my vise trying to use it as a press; this is just to illustrate the idea. I would do the actual pressing in my 20T press.
Am I begging to break the dynamic jaw away from the slide? I can measure the progress accurately and make sure I don't over-press it.
Probably the safest course would be to machine the jaw perches to be square with each other, but let's face it - this is a $50 vise at best. I don't have a mill, and hiring it done would be waaayy too expensive.
The other alternative that I could do is taper the jaw faces. I could do this accurately enough on a belt sander, though it would leave them pretty thin.
I've read several posts here about straightening slides, bun none quite address my situation Any/all thoughts welcome!
